Oil Pressure Light Came On!!! pics

[phildac]

Took the L260 for its maiden voyage last weekend and after about a half hour or so when I was pulling it back into the garage the low oil pressure light came on. So I drained the oil then and there and tonight I opened up the side access panel and here is what I found. Mind you, this is after 2 oil changes with less than 45 minutes from the first change to the last.

First pic shows the internal screen when I first opened the cover. The second shows the screen after I rotated it 180 degrees.

Last two are after the cleanup.

 

[pmhowe]

The mess shown in pictures 2 and 3 looks like water had gotten into the oil, and emulsified. Since you said this happened just 45 minutes after another oil change, I'd check the coolant level and look for a leak. Let us know what you find.

 

[phildac]

The mess shown in pictures 2 and 3 looks like water had gotten into the oil, and emulsified. Since you said this happened just 45 minutes after another oil change, I'd check the coolant level and look for a leak. Let us know what you find.

The tractor had sat for several years with the previous owner.

 

[Dwarner]

I'd install a pressure gauge to keep a better watch on the pressure.

 

[phildac]

I'd install a pressure gauge to keep a better watch on the pressure.

Dwarner,

Picked up a oil pressure gauge today that shows 0-100 in 2psi increments. Got the old sender out and the new line and brass compression fitting plumed into the old sender location. Still need to hook up the gauge after I cut a hole in the dash. I'll post a pic after I get it done this weekend.

 

[phildac]

Found some time after work today to install the oil pressure gauge. Making around 30p.s.i while cranking. Will start it this weekend to get the full pressure.

 

[pejepscot]

Hi Phildac,

To remove that screen, did you simply unscrew it by turning it using the flats seen near the threaded end? Was there any need to prime the oil pump or anything weird like that or just thread it back in place, fill the oil and restart the motor?

I normally use Rotella-T 15-40. Sound good to you?

Thanks,

Ren

 

[MagKarl]

While you've got it drained and clean, you might consider running a coolant pressure test to see if you have any leaks. Most auto parts stores rent them if you don't have one.

 

[skeets]

That do look ugly,,,, but maybe ya got all the gunk out of her,,

 

[85Hokie]

The mess shown in pictures 2 and 3 looks like water had gotten into the oil, and emulsified. Since you said this happened just 45 minutes after another oil change, I'd check the coolant level and look for a leak. Let us know what you find.

I agree with the water in the oil.....that being the case, have you checked head gasket, bubbles in the radiator, coolant low????

I would NOT place "great oil" in there until you get the gunk flushed out.....

If you think you got all that gunk out , then my all means place the good stuff in there, but often in a situation like this - you need to find why the water got there, (could be condensation too) fix it - then flush it, to flush it I would use the cheapest oil you can place in there, run it for 5-10 hours, flush and look at it until all the stuff is "clean" then come in there with the "good$$$" oil.

Old days they would flush a gas engine with kero and then drain and so on....I would not do this with the diesel - but I would not go back with $$$ oil until I was sure I had the situation fixed.

 

[OldeEnglish]

You may even want to try adding some Marvel's Mystery Oil to the oil. You just substitute an X amount (what ever the back of the bottle says) within the oil and run it for a while Like 85hookie said and it will clean that puppy right up. I use it for a lot of different applications and it works great for cleaning any metal parts. I use it in the fuel for my b7100 to add lubrication to the low sulfur fuel we have today.

It's amazing what that stuff does, I've used it for many years in my older cars and trucks and never had an engine blow. I run it in the gas/diesel and every 3 engine oil changes once they get over 100k. Usually the vehicles rot to death up here from the salt before I can get an engine to stop.

We ran it in the diesel in my buddie's 06 F350 6L 260k miles that was getting a hesitation at low RPMs, after three tanks of fuel she purred like a kitten. He tried Sea Foam before that and it didn't do anything for it.

It will thin your oil out so if your worried about it use a heaver weight oil. I always used the reconmended weight and never had a problem.

 

[AZ.]

You may even want to try adding some Marvel's Mystery Oil to the oil. You just substitute an X amount (what ever the back of the bottle says) within the oil and run it for a while Like 85hookie said and it will clean that puppy right up. I use it for a lot of different applications and it works great for cleaning any metal parts. I use it in the fuel for my b7100 to add lubrication to the low sulfur fuel we have today.

It's amazing what that stuff does, I've used it for many years in my older cars and trucks and never had an engine blow. I run it in the gas/diesel and every 3 engine oil changes once they get over 100k. Usually the vehicles rot to death up here from the salt before I can get an engine to stop.

We ran it in the diesel in my buddie's 06 F350 6L 260k miles that was getting a hesitation at low RPMs, after three tanks of fuel she purred like a kitten. He tried Sea Foam before that and it didn't do anything for it.

It will thin your oil out so if your worried about it use a heaver weight oil. I always used the reconmended weight and never had a problem.

That is fine for engine rings, but will do nothing for head gaskets, if coolant/water is getting in....2 different animals...

 

[pejepscot]

Still hoping for some advice on removal/replacement of that screen assembly before I open my L260 up...

 

[OldeEnglish]

That is fine for engine rings, but will do nothing for head gaskets, if coolant/water is getting in....2 different animals...

I hear ya there, it was just a suggestion to help clean the upper half and lower half of the engine of gunk and buildup including the oil/fuel pump. Will it fix a head gasket, I think not....

 

[Diydave]

Marvel mystery oil is merely automatic transmission fluid, and yes, it does help de-sludgeify and clean a motor. As others have said, coolant check. You might want to start by loosening, then oiling, then re-torquing the head bolts. You can do them one at a time, then re-torque. Then do a pressure test. If you do find a small leak, after all of this, get a pint of blue devil radiator and head sealant, it does what it says, stops small leaks.

 

[ShaunRH]

Not a fan of loosening headbolts and retightening. If you are going to do that, replace them one by one and tighten to specs, however, diesels are very unforgiving of loose headbolts.

Generally speaking, any slack in a headbolt and it will blow out the gasket in the area of the weak bolt and you are in for a new gasket. So, not sure if it's a bolt tension issue. A corroded or cracked gasket away from the compression areas, that's possible, then it's best to replace the gasket anyway.

Most stop leak products are not meant as a permanent fix, usually to get you home or to the nearest place with a mechanic to get the repair done. Having had to trash a radiator because someone used stop leak to fix a seepy hose, yeah, not a fan of those kinds of products either...

 

[Diydave]

Not a fan of loosening headbolts and retightening. If you are going to do that, replace them one by one and tighten to specs, however, diesels are very unforgiving of loose headbolts.

Generally speaking, any slack in a headbolt and it will blow out the gasket in the area of the weak bolt and you are in for a new gasket. So, not sure if it's a bolt tension issue. A corroded or cracked gasket away from the compression areas, that's possible, then it's best to replace the gasket anyway.

Most stop leak products are not meant as a permanent fix, usually to get you home or to the nearest place with a mechanic to get the repair done. Having had to trash a radiator because someone used stop leak to fix a seepy hose, yeah, not a fan of those kinds of products either...

Blue devil is not your ordinary stopleak, it is sodium silicate, aka waterglass. It seeks out heat and changes to a fingernail polish like substance, that will stop small leaks. True, it is not permanent, but it will work from 2-6 years. it's not meant to repair hoses or other parts of the cooling system, it only works on the parts that generate the heat...

 

[ShaunRH]

I have no experience with it, which is why I said 'Most'. Sodium Silicate is cool stuff as a finishing product, only used it once but it was neat. Not sure I'd trust it in my cooling system though... Lots of heat sources there!

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I think you guys have gone off the deep end!

It's a 40+ year old tractor that probably didn't ever have the screen (in this case AKA oil filter) cleaned or replaced, the sludge is normal and not really that excessive for a tractor of that age.

He just had a little loss of oil pressure, not an overheating problem.
Are you purposely trying to scare him with "something's leaking" "quick fix it"?

As far as adding any cleaners or additives to the oil, phooey on that, it's an old tractor, It's got old seals, O-rings, and gaskets, trying to excessively clean the guts might very well cause the guts to come unglued or spit out the exhaust pipe.

leave it alone till it has a problem.

 

[pejepscot]

I think you guys have gone off the deep end!

It's a 40+ year old tractor that probably didn't ever have the screen (in this case AKA oil filter) cleaned or replaced, the sludge is normal and not really that excessive for a tractor of that age.

He just had a little loss of oil pressure, not an overheating problem.
Are you purposely trying to scare him with "something's leaking" "quick fix it"?

As far as adding any cleaners or additives to the oil, phooey on that, it's an old tractor, It's got old seals, O-rings, and gaskets, trying to excessively clean the guts might very well cause the guts to come unglued or spit out the exhaust pipe.

leave it alone till it has a problem.

Wolfman-

Thanks for putting this train back on the tracks!

Now, the reason I bumped this up was to see if I could get advice on removing/replacing that oil screen before I open up my old L260.

1. does it just unscrew in the obvious way? (looks way too easy)

2. Do I need to do anything special (like priming the oil pump) after replacing this screen?
Thanks,
Ren