Need advice on how to disassemble hydraulic cylinder

[jyoutz]

At this point, I would admit that I am over my head and don't have enough experience and then take it to a cylinder rebuilder and have them install the new parts and reassemble it. Keep in mind that if you don't get it correct the first time, all your time and money for parts will have been wasted. This is the type of job you are only going to do once and possibly never again. You gave it a good try, but now you are at a crossroads, and it is up to you to decide if you want to continue down the road with the repair or give it to the person that does this for a living and will get it correct the first time.

I took a cylinder to a hydraulic shop two years ago. They rebuilt it for $200 and change. It was perfect after the rebuild.

 

[Magicman]

Edit, you'll need to remove the piston to replace the rod seal and wiper.

Different cylinder but same piston seals, etc.

 

[timsch]

Don't forget the rod seal and wiper in the cap. Where was it leaking?

Edit, you'll need to remove the piston to replace the rod seal and wiper.

Thanks. That was an obvious one that I shouldn't have missed.

 

[timsch]

At this point, I would admit that I am over my head and don't have enough experience and then take it to a cylinder rebuilder and have them install the new parts and reassemble it. Keep in mind that if you don't get it correct the first time, all your time and money for parts will have been wasted. This is the type of job you are only going to do once and possibly never again. You gave it a good try, but now you are at a crossroads, and it is up to you to decide if you want to continue down the road with the repair or give it to the person that does this for a living and will get it correct the first time.

I'm definitely one to tread lightly and hesitatingly., but this isn't an engine or transmission rebuild with a great time investment. What you're seeing with me with all these questions that might seem obvious is the hesitancy, not incompetence necessarily.

The pistons come off and apart pretty quickly & easily (hopefully, which is what I'm trying to find out now) once the details are understood. The fundamentals aren't any different than downhole oil tools I've worked on in the past, so I'm confident with the seal replacement. It's the 1st time analysis that I'm mainly struggling with. I just don't want to overlook something obvious. If I don't get it right the 1st time, I'm just out my time and a little bit of $. If I throw in the towel right away, I'm out up to ~$1000 for all 4 cylinders. Seems a worthy effort to me.

So, at this time, I'm curious about the 4 impressions on the bottom of the piston. Are they as I imagine, threadlockers?

 

[Yooper]

Have you tried to source parts yet? Usually there will be a kit with all the seals and dust shield. You got it this far, now is the time to replace all the parts that wear.

 

[timsch]

Have you tried to source parts yet? Usually there will be a kit with all the seals and dust shield. You got it this far, now is the time to replace all the parts that wear.

I've not tried too hard to find a kit since I don't have the FEL model number. It would be my 1st option if I had the info, though. The plan as of now is to remove the seals and take them to the hydraulics shop for matching.

 

[timsch]

I've not tried too hard to find a kit since I don't have the FEL model number. It would be my 1st option if I had the info, though. The plan as of now is to remove the seals and take them to the hydraulics shop for matching.

So this is the condition of the FEL labels. The only thing I can halfway make out is "501" on the right side, but this doesn't look like OEM marking to me.

Rough, I know. This is an initial stage of a general restoration.

 

[D2Cat]

Take the cyl. to your local hyd. repair shop. If you have the end cap off and the ram removed and cleaned they can usually easily and quickly show you the components you need. They may even install it for you.

 

[timsch]

Take the cyl. to your local hyd. repair shop. If you have the end cap off and the ram removed and cleaned they can usually easily and quickly show you the components you need. They may even install it for you.

I'm definitely considering doing that since the piston does look to be held on there with metal deformation at those 4 punch marks. That would make sense since that part coming off in use would be bad. I made a spanner and the piston is not rotating even with hammer taps on the end of the spanner. I'd be in the clear if I could get the piston off.

 

[PoTreeBoy]

I'm definitely considering doing that since the piston does look to be held on there with metal deformation at those 4 punch marks. That would make sense since that part coming off in use would be bad. I made a spanner and the piston is not rotating even with hammer taps on the end of the spanner. I'd be in the clear if I could get the piston off.

View attachment 94767 View attachment 94768

Nice wrench! It'll be tight for sure. Some people would use a big pipe wrench and then file off the tool marks. Just don't get hurt.

 

[timsch]

Nice wrench! It'll be tight for sure. Some people would use a big pipe wrench and then file off the tool marks. Just don't get hurt.

I do have a big pipe wrench and thought about it, but decided to go this route. I can definitely put more a$$ into the spanner, but wasn't going to get too aggressive before getting some more feedback from y'all.

 

[PoTreeBoy]

I do have a big pipe wrench and thought about it, but decided to go this route. I can definitely put more a$$ into the spanner, but wasn't going to get too aggressive before getting some more feedback from y'all.

All mine had hex nuts holding them on. A 3/4" drive socket and 4' cheater did the trick. I'm fair sized.

 

[timsch]

I did get the piston off after putting a cheater pipe on the spanner. The piston seal was a chevron stack with a couple of plastic end pieces.

The ID cap has the same type of seal setup. The stack is held in place by a interior circlip. Unfortunately, BOTH tabs of the circlip are broken off. One was broken when I pulled out the wiper, and the other broke when I probed it a bit with my pick. So now's the challenge. Not alot of meat to grab hold of. I don't think I can get picks in behind what remains of it. Even if I could, I doubt I could get enough force on it that way.

I could get my dremel with the diamond cutoff disk on it to cut it in half....

 

[Magicman]

You gotta do what you gotta do.

 

[Quick]

I'm guessing you've googled your tractor and determined that it is not a BF400 loader? https://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/001/2/8/1284-kubota-l275-attachments.html

If it is: https://www.messicks.com/ku/84655

 

[timsch]

I'm guessing you've googled your tractor and determined that it is not a BF400 loader? https://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/001/2/8/1284-kubota-l275-attachments.html

If it is: https://www.messicks.com/ku/84655

It is not, unless they have different variations in design over the years. All pictures & diagrams of the BF400 I've seen are different from mine, which is pictured in post 27. Cylinders are definitely different from the exploded views in the Messicks link.

 

[PoTreeBoy]

It is not, unless they have different variations in design over the years. All pictures & diagrams of the BF400 I've seen are different from mine, which is pictured in post 27. Cylinders are definitely different from the exploded views in the Messicks link.

That's what I saw. Do your cylinders have any id stamped in them?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

That's an L1200 Loader, here is a book on it.

https://www.kubotabooks.com/AutoIndex/index.php?dir=Loaders%20and%20buckets/&file=1200%20Loader%20for%20L%20series%20tractors.pdf

 

[Quick]

That's an L1200 Loader, here is a book on it.

https://www.kubotabooks.com/AutoIndex/index.php?dir=Loaders%20and%20buckets/&file=1200%20Loader%20for%20L%20series%20tractors.pdf

You are the MAN, Wolfman! (-:

 

[timsch]

That's an L1200 Loader, here is a book on it.

https://www.kubotabooks.com/AutoIndex/index.php?dir=Loaders%20and%20buckets/&file=1200%20Loader%20for%20L%20series%20tractors.pdf

Saying "you're the man" would be an understatement. Thanks so much for the pointer, and the document on top of it all. Where's the forum donation button????


p.s. reminder to myself and whoever else wants to listen - don't say stuff like " I'd be in the clear if I could get the piston off." -- as if I didn't know that already....LOL