ptwyz
New member
Equipment
BX2660, FEL, tiller, disc cultivator, tine cultivator, rear blade, MMM, & more!!
Robert, (orange tractors), THANK YOU VERY MUCH for all your input . This is EXACTLY the type of information I am craving for! I have already printed this page out and have it posted in my shop!ptwyz,
You want the plow level when it is in the ground actually working. One way to do this is to run the left side of the tractor up on blocks equal to the depth you are going to plow, usually seven or eight inches. Then set the bottom of the plow level. This is why a lot of the two and three bottom three point plows have an off set in the drawbar.
Also set it so the left edge of the moldboard is the width of your plow bottom from the inside edge of your right rear tire. I am guessing that your plow is a 12", but measure it to be sure. The coulter should be 3/4 to 1" to the right of the leading edge of the plow so the ground breaks correctly.
Once the mold bord gets polished it is amazing how much easier a plow pulls. I once used a 3-14 plow that hadn't been used in twenty years to plow seven acres behind a worn out WD Allis Chalmers. After grinding and sanding the rust off for a full day, it took about three acres of plowing in first gear then I could plow in second, by the time I was done the tractor would pull it in third downhill.
Hope this helps,
Robert
I do have one question, On the first run, (when I am establishing the first furrow), I DO run the plow even, then I "level" the plow like you mentioned above, correct ?