L3250 Injector Related Issues

J03bota

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Equipment
L3250DT
Nov 28, 2016
105
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16
Southern Seacoast New Hampshire
Greetings,
First time posting. I have owned an L3250 for about 4 years now. Despite a few issues the tractor always starts right up and until 2 weeks ago have had No power related issues.
A BIT OF HISTORY:
From day 1 the tractor has always puffed gray w/ a hint of blue smoke.
I also noticed that after a fresh Amsoil oil change the engine runs quiet for only 10-20 hours or so then the lifters and general engine noise begins to creep back in. Not a mechanic but I recently adjusted the valves and was able to quiet them down a bit but can still act up. Assumed firing order was 1-3-4-2. I adjusted cylinders 4,2,1 and 3 when cylinders 1,3,4 and 2 were at end of exhaust start of intake. Found video describing sequence.
Suspect possible of oil dilution?? That would explain why the engine oil doesn’t seem to protect for very long. However I don’t ever smell fuel in the oil. The oil level doesn’t change and the oil never looks dirty - the previous owner old-timer told me he rebuilt the engine block (ie: sent the block out) but something seems fishy (blue smoke/noisy engine??).
No coolant issues whatsoever. Engine can eventually heat up to almost half scale. My diesel fuel tanks are always pretreated with extra fuel conditioners, injector cleaners, lubes, octane boost, and anti-gels. I’m like a bloody chemist at the gas station with all these additive.

HERE’S THE MAIN PROBLEM:
About 2 weeks ago I thought to myself maybe if the injectors were dribbling some of the fuel could be getting to the crankcase and diluting my oil and also causing some of my smoke problems so I decided that I would pull and clean my injectors. But before pulling the injectors I decided to pull off the exhaust manifold to determine which Port was smoking.
Well it turns out that the two middle ports are smoking the worst and dripping black oil or fuel out the port. The outside port is smoking much less and the inside port looks perfect.
Pulled all 4 injectors, did a quick clean, tested each port with injector (confirmed spray pattern) and reinserted my injectors. Bled the injectors with the bleed valve only and could not get the tractor to run right (loss of power). Purchased and installed 4 brand new injectors bled them with the bleeder and bled from the top of the pipes (found video last week) until fuel was pumping out then reconnected injectors. Started up and got same exact results - loss of power??
Filled new fuel filter with seafoam. Bled, soaked and ran tractor around the yard pretty hard for 30 + minutes. No change?? its like one of my injectors is not firing right ?
I ordered an injector pop tester to confirm good injectors. Great thing to have but I really don’t think I’m having an injector problem??
Do you think I still have air in lines?? I must be missing something here right ??
And to think, I caused this when I pulled the injectors.
God forbid what’s going to happen when I take the head off to figure out the bigger blue smoke/dripping exhaust problem? Probably not going to see a rebuilt engine block.

Thank you for any help you can provide.
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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Pull all the injector lines off of the injection pump and set the throttle to high and make sure the fuel stop is not on, while watching the injection pump, crank it.
If one or several of the outputs don't fountain up fuel to the same height there is your issue, you will have to have the injection pump rebuilt.
Also send the injectors in when you do the pump and have them tested / rebuilt at the same time.
 

J03bota

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L3250DT
Nov 28, 2016
105
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Southern Seacoast New Hampshire
hi thank you for your reply. I did test the pump when testing the original injectors. I was able to use injector pipe 1 (I think it was 1) to test all 4 injectors and 4 injector pump lines. I connected injector 1 through pipe 1 to pump line 1 after rolled the engine over and finding the spot when fuel begins squirting up on line 1. Then by hand rolling the engine back and forth a few inches I was able to fill the pipe and injector with fuel and observe the spray pattern for injector 1. I then repeated this process for each injector and injector pump line.

I received the injector nozzle tester last light $88.00 from India. This weekend I will tests the old and new injectors and reconfirm pump operation per your suggestion.
- Please keep in mind that all I basically did was pull the injectors and put them back in.
- Oh and I also took off the exhaust manifold and reinstalled it.
No power issues before pulling the injectors.
 
Last edited:

007kubotaguy

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B7100DT L245DT JD 2355
Dec 23, 2012
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Hello

Have you checked the delivery valves on on top of the injection pump to be sure they are tight. Some time when removeing the injector line they get lose. with the line of the pump check them with a 19MM socket.If they are lose that cylinder will not fire.
Good Luck Lance
 

D2Cat

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"Pulled all 4 injectors, did a quick clean, tested each port with injector (confirmed spray pattern) and reinserted my injectors. Bled the injectors with the bleed valve only and could not get the tractor to run right (loss of power). Purchased and installed 4 brand new injectors bled them with the bleeder and bled from the top of the pipes (found video last week) until fuel was pumping out then reconnected injectors. Started up and got same exact results - loss of power??"

With 4 new injectors, it almost has to be a function of the injection pump.

I get injectors tested at no cost. When I called them to ask about the injectors in an L3250 they said they don't test them. They can't adjust them. Just replace them. Show us a link to your tester, please.
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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Thanks D2Cat, I didn't even catch the fact that is a model with the Stanadyne pencil injectors, they are much different than a standard set of injectors, and yea they don't test well and are not cleanable or repair / rebuild-able.

How exactly did you pull the injectors?
When you changed the injectors did you change the 2 seals for the injectors, they normally get stuck in the head.
Bubble leak test (spray liquid bubbles) around each injector to look for leaks, even the smallest leak will kill it's performance.

Have you done a flow test on the feed to the injection pump to make sure there was no up stream blockage on the input fuel?

If all that looks good then you need to do a compression test and on that model you need to do it via the glow plugs, and make sure you use the right adapter as the short Indirect injector adapter will give you false readings. ;)
 

J03bota

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L3250DT
Nov 28, 2016
105
0
16
Southern Seacoast New Hampshire
http://m.ebay.com/itm/Diesel-Inject...0-PSI-Gauge-/291543301223?txnId=1375108302019

holy smokes thank you all very much for your reply I think we're onto something I really don't think I have an injector problem. here is the link to the injector nozzle tester that I bought it's a pretty nice tool and the nozzle fits right on my injector I pulled the injectors straight out using a combination of tools to help 3 different angled pry bars do the main work. I'm sure the mechanics know what they're talking about but I took one injector apart and noticed that there were two adjustments related to the release pressure just yesterday I received 10 compression seals and 10 carbon seals that I purchased for pennies rather than many dollars per seal there almost $10 for one single compression seal on line they look like a very very close match. if the injectors are truly throw away or if the seals turned out not to be a perfect match then it didn't cost me much. my old injectors are still in very good condition but the seals are cooked Injectors very likely replaced by the previous owner
I hope this all makes sense I'm in my car will update more later be happy to share the seals info as well thank you ALL again very very much for your help
 
Last edited:

D2Cat

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Looks like you could take the gauge off your tester and make up a quick connect for your hydraulic connects and have a tester for hyd. pressures.
 

J03bota

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L3250DT
Nov 28, 2016
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Southern Seacoast New Hampshire
that's a very good idea I will definitely reuse that high pressure gauge if I can
probably not going to test nozzles very often haha. While I have your ears What compression test kit do you guys recommend I've seen them with the glow plug adapters almost bought one but decided to buy the injector nozzle tester first.
this weekend I am going to perform some tests and hope to report back that I found an air leak or a clogged injector or trapped air because it can't be anything else two weeks ago drove up a steep hill in high 2 heavily loaded with no power loss. Last week stalls in high 1
Thank you
- Joe
 

D2Cat

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You can get an adequate compression testing kit from Harbor Freight for about $30. There are two fitting in the kit that will thread into the L3250 head.
 

J03bota

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L3250DT
Nov 28, 2016
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Southern Seacoast New Hampshire
Really D2Cat? You mean to tell me I don't need to spend hours on line trying to figure out which test kit works for my tractor and doesn't cost hundreds of dollars?

Talk about doing things the hard way... Please somebody shoot me.
 

D2Cat

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J03bota, I have an L3250 that I gave up on. I tested the compression about 4 weeks ago.

I had a HF compression tester kit that did not work. The quick connect coupling spring and 0-ring was messed up. It was too far and too much work to return it so I just let it set. I needed to check the L3250 before I could go further. I returned the box of hardware and they nicely exchange the entire thing for the new model, even after a year. It will do what you need at a very inexpensive price.

I had 300, 400, 400, 400. Then found a rod bearing spun requiring another crank. And I had already had the head completely gone through. I have it listed in the want ads, but Western Kentucky has an interest in it at a deeply discounted price. It might just go there, because I'm tired of looking at it!!
 

J03bota

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Equipment
L3250DT
Nov 28, 2016
105
0
16
Southern Seacoast New Hampshire
no way I cannot believe that happened now I feel sick do you think there is an inherent problem with the l3250 or do you think someone made a mistake with the rebuild very disheartening story. I have a John Deere compact tractor that is no way built as well as this Kubota you hear these horror stories but you never think that it would ever happen to you and then it happens I purchased the Harbor Freight compression tester by the way
I hope and pray I don't have to use it
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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No the L3250 does not have an inherent problem.
The engine V1902 is actually the base model block to a lot of larger engines, the most common being the V2203.
It's a very strong engine and well designed model, I have both the V1902 in an L3450 and a V2203 In my 743 Bobcat and both are quick to start and flawless to run.

Knowing a little about the tractor that D2Cat has, I think it's safe to say it was rode hard and put away wet!
 

D2Cat

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The tractor I have is not a representation of a bad engine, it only shows how disrespectful some can be with other's equipment. The hour meter does not work. It may have 7,000 to 10,000 hours, by looking at the total tractor. Even so, when they first heard the noise they could have quit running it and fixed it quite easily. I had to shut off the fuel to keep it from starting when adjusting the valves, it started so quickly!

I heard the ticking noise and though it might be a bad injector. Checked compression, then pulled the head. Saw on the head where the valves were coming ever so close to the head. Pulled the pan, and saw the damage.

Direct injection, 4 cyl. work horse.

I came to me from a big horse breeding farm in Ok. used only for dragging a manure spreader to and from the barns. They discarded the side curtains at some point and the 3-pt iron. Probably because they were in the way!

I'm the eternal optimist. Go after Mobby Dick in a row boat, and take the tarter sauce!! I guess that's why I had the head in the machine shop before analyzing the total picture.

But this Nelly Belle kicked my butt!!!! Your tractor will be fine. You will be absolutely amazed at how well it has stood up to stress. No matter what you find it fixable, because you are working on it before it's too late.
 

J03bota

Member

Equipment
L3250DT
Nov 28, 2016
105
0
16
Southern Seacoast New Hampshire
Are you saying that your machine might have only needed a valve adjustment?
I was hoping you guys were good with the V1902. I love my tractor and plan on keeping it for the rest of my life (55 years old electrical engineer) and if I need to rebuild the engine in the future then so be it. It has 1600 hours on the meter and was neglected (maybe abused) by earlier owner(s) then fixed up and sold to me. I use the bucket to push snow 1/8 mile driveway, take out the trash and move a few cords of wood around the yard each year. It's stored out of the weather gets premium fuel and oil and life is e-a-s-y like a walk in the park for this tractor.
** Too easy actually was one of the reasons why I pulled the injectors. Wasn't warming it up enough wasn't driving it hard enough. Now that I'm thinking of it I could be (probably am) causing all my own problems. Diesel engines are very different that gas engines. I was not aware of the potential carbon build up with diesel engines. I guess I can no longer start it up take the trash out to the road and put it away all within 10-15 minutes of time?? NooooooAAAAAHahaDummy

BTW: I did see the complaints about the HF compression tester check valve before the purchase. Its getting the right fittings for the tractor that I was worried about. If the check valve breaks and I cant find a new or better designed check valve that screws on the hose then I would have no problem getting a better quality gauge with adapter to my fittings (if needed).

V e r y B e s t R e g a r d s !!!
- Joe
 
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J03bota

Member

Equipment
L3250DT
Nov 28, 2016
105
0
16
Southern Seacoast New Hampshire
Hey gents, I discovered a few things today:
- While the tractor was running I re-bled the injector lines at the top of the pipes. Much better way of doing it btw. I then loosened each injector until I felt some vibration then re-torqued them down. Doing this step actually made the problem worse. Rev up was slow, started smoking more and discovered smoke coming out of the blow-by hose.
At least now I know (or highly suspect) why messing with the injectors has caused power loss. Because the injectors are causing crap from the head to fall onto the pistons. Had the same rev problem the 1st time I pulled the injectors. Eventually it cleared all the while thinking it was an air bubble when in fact it was dirt working its way past the cylinder wall.
- I also tested 3 of my 4 original pencil injectors and outside of 1 injector releasing early all injectors are/were working just fine - confirming that I never had an injector problem.

Have not received the compression tester yet but sounds like an engine rebuild to me.
One side of me says tear the engine down and I'll figure it out myself.
The other side says call Kubota.
Can only imaging how much it will cost for Kubota to rebuild my engine.

Best regards
- joe
 

D2Cat

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Joe, the only think you need to call Kubota for is parts!

Loosening the injector while the engine is running has no purpose. Be like screwing out a glow plug while the engine is running. You're creating an escape for the compression.
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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Joe,
Kubota dealers will not rebuild that engine, you'll have to find someone in open market to do it.
There are a lot of places that will rebuild that engine, but you'll find out that it is very cost ineffective to even rebuild it.
Going rate on an engine like that is in the range of about $4k

If you do have a serious engine issue that needs rebuilt, one very good option is to get a V2203 DI engine, it will fit right in with minimal parts swaps from the old motor. ;)