Kubota L4701 150 hours rear end stripped gear popping noise. NOW WITH VIDEO

[Russell King]

I believe that most tractors will have a subframe mounted backhoe as an option that is removable and then you can get a 3 point hitch (arms and such) to install when the backhoe is removed.

But you have to be sure to buy the 3 point kit for the tractor to be able to use when you need them.

If you buy a (industrial) tractor loader backhoe (TLB) I don’t think you would be able to remove the backhoe at all.

Is that what you’re asking?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I believe that most tractors will have a subframe mounted backhoe as an option that is removable and then you can get a 3 point hitch (arms and such) to install when the backhoe is removed.

But you have to be sure to buy the 3 point kit for the tractor to be able to use when you need them.

If you buy a (industrial) tractor loader backhoe (TLB) I don’t think you would be able to remove the backhoe at all.

Is that what you’re asking?

You can remove the BH's on TLB's they are subframe quick hitch mounts.

 

[PaulL]

You can remove the BH's on TLB's they are subframe quick hitch mounts.

To clarify - on Kubota TLBs. On commercial CASE and the like, I guess it depends?

 

[Joisey]

You 1000% do NOT want a 3 point BH.
You think you have problems now, get a three point BH, and you'll have a ton more!

Why don't you look at a L47 or M62, they are both commercial grade TLB's?

FYI: There is very little comparison between the L47 and the L4701.

I recently bought a Kubota L47 TLB. While I haven't used it hard (only twenty some hours, taking it easy for the first 50 hours) I AM quite pleased with the power. It is taking me a while to become accustomed to the backhoe controls, as they are different than those on my Case 680CK that I sold a while back. The Kubota is no 680 CK, but it is 4wd, is more stable on hills and is easier to fit in confined spaces. For brute force/demolition, you can't beat the Case because of horsepower, torque and sheer weight.

 

[Joisey]

I checked out the L47 and it has a 3 point kit available, does anyone know if you have to remove the 3 point arms off the L47 when the backhoe is installed, difficult to take the backhoe off the L47 or is it as easy as the L4701?

The first time is a bit difficult, well, not difficult, time consuming to make sure you have everything disconnected, etc as not to break or bend anything. Half hour or a bit more the first time I'd say.

 

[Rdrett]

I believe that most tractors will have a subframe mounted backhoe as an option that is removable and then you can get a 3 point hitch (arms and such) to install when the backhoe is removed.

But you have to be sure to buy the 3 point kit for the tractor to be able to use when you need them.

If you buy a (industrial) tractor loader backhoe (TLB) I don’t think you would be able to remove the backhoe at all.

Is that what you’re asking?

exactly. Looking for a TLB with a removable backhoe to use 3 point implements.

 

[fried1765]

I checked out the L47 and it has a 3 point kit available, does anyone know if you have to remove the 3 point arms off the L47 when the backhoe is installed, difficult to take the backhoe off the L47 or is it as easy as the L4701?

I can't specifically answer your "is it as easy as the l4701", because I have never owned or used an L4701..

You should order the L47 TLB 3 pt kit with the tractor.
If you buy that kit later, as a separate item, you will pay dearly.

I have the L48, but believe the BH connect/disconnect method to be the same.
The 3pt arms must be removed to attach the BH.
The L47 TLB is one sweet machine!

Be aware that the loader is not the disconnect type.

 

[kenmac]

If my Kubota had a questionable issue I feel like my dealer would treat me right. Some dealers might not. That's why I bought mine where I did. Try running your issue by another dealer- preferrably one that sells commercial equipment. Their shop has to meet fairly strict standards to sell commercial stuff. Maybe you'll get a better answer and can get your issue resolved. I'm pretty sure you won't get good responses on this forum bad mouthing the tractor. Dealer quality might be questionable here, but Kubota builds as good a tractor as any on this green earth. Either way, I'd get the tractor fixed.

 

[Rdrett]

I wanted to post an update on my tractor. 3 weeks without my tractor and nothing has happened. I was told 3 times by the warranty department that they would contact me within 48 hours, never heard anything back all 3 times.
no kubota dealer in Kentucky will take the tractor in on trade for a new tractor. 3 kubota dealerships refused to even look at it even tho the warranty contract says you can take it to any kubota dealership for warranty repair. I had a kubota L2501 that after I paid it off I sold it and bought the L4701 with backhoe, worst mistake of my life. I should of kept the L2501 and took the $20,000 cash i out down on the L4701 and purchased a backhoe for the L2501.
I contacted messicks to see if they would take the L4701 in on trade and they also refused. Said it would “send up a red flag to kubota” and since it was under warranty it had to stay local to where I am. Whatever that means.
So I guess if you buy a kubota in California and move to Florida and want to trade your kubota in you have to take it back to California.
The only reason I bought the L4701 with backhoe was to dig out a crawl space and then dig footers, now I am starting the job and digging it out by hand with a shovel and pick.

I thought kubota corporate kept an eye on this forum. If there are any dealers anywhere in the US who is reading this that is willing to fix my tractor or take it in on trade please help me, I will either bring you my tractor myself or ship it to you. I have already paid down $30,000 on the loan and I am willing to take a huge loss on this tractor if anyone can help.

My KTAC insurance will pay for loss of use but they won’t tell me how it works, all they will say is have your dealer file a claim, does anyone know what that means?

 

[Rdrett]

Update,
‘After 5 weeks the 2nd kubota dealership just called me and said that they are about to take the tractor apart to finally diagnose the problem but I had to agree to pay them $400 in the case that the issue is the brakes lining worn down. If the brakes lining is worn down then I would have to pay them $2,000 to fix it.
I can guarantee you that the loud popping / gear stripped out noise is not coming from the pad lining worn down, that would make a squealing / metal on metal rubbing noise not a stripped out gear noise.
attached is a picture of the brake lining. The splined center that is splined into the axle is most likely the issue.
I agreed to pay the $400 to diagnose my one year old tractor with 150 hours on it that is under warranty.
I am sure Kubota designed the brakes pad linings to last longer than 150 hours. If it was a gear drive tractor then they wouldn’t even last 3 months.

I am pretty sure after they take it apart a visual inspection will quickly determine the exact issue.

Place your bets now on what the problem is.

 

[Rdrett]

So the kubota dealership took the tractor apart and and they are replacing all 4 of the brake discs and plates under warranty, I went down and looked at them and they appear to be in perfect condition, the tech agreed with me. They think I am concerned with the brakes squeaking, when I am concerned about the loud popping Noise. They had both of the axle casin’s off and from what I could see the gears appear okay.
The tech said that he could not duplicate the popping noise. I asked him if he backed it down the hill and hit the brake pedal and he said no. I told him if he wants to duplicate the popping sound back down the hill and push the brake pedal.
I don’t think we are getting to the root cause of the problem. But if the brakes don’t fix the loud popping noise then at least they won’t be able to blame it on the brakes anymore.

 

[NCL4701]

At least you found someone willing to work on it and warranty is covering it so there’s not a giant sucking sound caused by all the money flying out of your bank account. Some progress…

 

[GrizBota]

One time I was going down a steep hill and the H M L range selector on my L3830 popped into neutral. The tractor started going down hill much faster until I hit the brakes. That scared me pretty good. Now it make sure the range selector is secured in gear, and not marginally in gear.

As to tractor creeping or out right rolling with the parking brake set, that does not sound right at all.

A month or so ago I starved my L3830 for fuel nose up on about a 1.0V to 2.5H slope. The parking brake held it there for about an hour and a half until I resolved the matter. I did set the brake nice and hard. In general I find that my HST tractors initially stop moving when I let off the hydrostatic peddle. If on a slope, they will creep until I set the parking brake. If on a steep slope, they will roll if I don’t set the brake. Can’t say I’m in love with the funky little parking brake levers. Something like a manual parking brake that cars used to have between the front seats with a nice ratcheting system would such give a nice tactile feedback.

 

[The Evil Twin]

Curious case, for sure.

 

[Jchonline]

You just need to either pay Kubota to diagnose it or you need to break it apart and repair/diagnose yourself. Do not get back on that machine.

Yes it sucks but being stubborn isnt going to help if it kills you.

 

[Jchonline]

Deleted

 

[Joisey]

I'll put $50 on a brake related problem. Friction discs sticking to the steel discs, misassembled (two friction or two steel next to one another), bad friction material on the discs or out of spec parts.

The fact that it doesn't make the noise when starting from a stop uphill makes it unlikely it's the gears.

 

[Rdrett]

You just need to either pay Kubota to diagnose it or you need to break it apart and repair/diagnose yourself. Do not get back on that machine.

Yes it sucks but being stubborn isnt going to help if it kills you.

You must of missed my last few post. I agreed to pay them $400 to diagnose it, they would not do anything until I agreed to pay the $400.
after that they disassembled the tractor and said there was a factory defect and since it was under warranty kubota was going to pay to replace all 4 brake discs and plates under warranty and I didn’t have to pay the $400 to diagnose it because it was a factory defect and the tractor was under full warranty.
All I have to pay for is new hydraulic fluid and filters.

There was a lot of what the kubota dealer said was “milky“ in the hydraulic fluid but it wasn’t water. It was shiny stuff in the hydraulic fluid but no chunks of metal.

I honestly don’t believe that new brakes are going to take care of the loud popping noise but I guess this is the first step in the repair process. If after replacing the brakes the loud popping noises don’t go away then kubota can’t continue to blame it on the brakes.

The kubota tech said if I don’t use the brakes then it won’t make the popping noises but I would prefer to use the brakes since it was designed, engineered and manufactured with brakes.

 

[RBsingl]

And if you don't use the engine it will never wear out... Kubota tech needs to find a more suitable job requiring less brainpower

Rodger

 

[Rdrett]

Deleted

I have taken the tractor to 5 kubota dealerships to get it diagnosed, 3 refused to look at it, one kept it a week and after rubbing a crystal ball and dancing around the tractor while chanting said it was my problem and I would need to pay to repair a tractor under warranty and to continue to operate the tractor.

‘The last dealership where it currently is has had it a month and after disassembling the tractor and talking with kubota corporate they agreed to replace all 4 brake discs and plates under warranty.

Not sure what else I could have done. I have spent 12 hours pulling the tractor across the whole state of Kentucky trying to get it fixed. Done everything I know to do trying to get my tractor that is under warranty fixed except for hauling the tractor to kubota corporate office and getting on my knees and start begging them to fix my $60,000 tractor that is under full factory warranty.

After reviewing the warranty contract when I purchased the tractor, which said that for any warranty issues you can take it to ANY kubota dealership for repair. I thought would be as easy as dropping it off at a kubota dealer and it would be repaired. I spent extra money to buying a tractor from a reputable company (kubota) so I would not have any issues like this. Fight to get a tractor under warranty repaired.

I have has multiple items repaired under warranty from reputable manufacturers Honda, dodge, ford, makita, Milwaukee, GE, LG, husqvarna, Kawasaki, Samsung, Stihl and probably a few I forgot.
I drop the item off and they fix it. Easy as that. I guess I got spoiled easily getting my stuff repaired under warranty without having to fight them for months.