Kubota L35 Problem

[Russell King]

That is what I would say is “BAD”!

Can you even see the valve stem that is supposed to be in that spring and holder?

 

[Fluke216]

That is what I would say is “BAD”!

Can you even see the valve stem that is supposed to be in that spring and holder?

Not sure exactly this little piece is sticking up it had a small like spring ring around it at the point it’s broken off.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Oh no, you're in for a shock when you pull the head.

My guess is your going to find a destroyed valve, piston, and sadly very possibly a destroyed head and even worse a destroyed block.

Best case ( really a reach) scenario, piston, head are gone and the block is salvageable
That block is not a sleeved block so it's not good if damage to the cylinder walls are present.

If you do get lucky and the cylinder is salvageable, you will need to take every single component out and clean everything to get all the metal out of it.

This might end up being a cheaper option:

https://www.equipmenttrader.com/listing/-KUBOTA-L35+REBUILT+ENGINE-108211429#sid=341781

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Not sure exactly this little piece is sticking up it had a small like spring ring around it at the point it’s broken off.

That's the valve guide, and seal.
The valve is inside the engine, in a thousand smashed pieces!

 

[Russell King]

Yes I read back through the original posts and that valve is what caused the engine noise you complained about originally!

I assume that the valve spring was unable to keep the valve keeper tight and the keeper let go of the valve. The valve then fell onto the piston, and the piston and valve beat the snot out of each other.

As NIW says I hope the block didn’t get damaged!

Next step is to get the head off and see what damage has been done.

Good Luck.

 

[Fluke216]

That's the valve guide, and seal.
The valve is inside the engine, in a thousand smashed pieces!

Would there be metal pieces down in the oil pan?

 

[Fluke216]

Oh no, you're in for a shock when you pull the head.

My guess is your going to find a destroyed valve, piston, and sadly very possibly a destroyed head and even worse a destroyed block.

Best case ( really a reach) scenario, piston, head are gone and the block is salvageable
That block is not a sleeved block so it's not good if damage to the cylinder walls are present.

If you do get lucky and the cylinder is salvageable, you will need to take every single component out and clean everything to get all the metal out of it.

This might end up being a cheaper option:

https://www.equipmenttrader.com/listing/-KUBOTA-L35+REBUILT+ENGINE-108211429#sid=341781

damn not good. Ok thanks for the info I don’t have a lot of time in the evening so may no get to it until the weekend again.

 

[Fluke216]

Yes I read back through the original posts and that valve is what caused the engine noise you complained about originally!

I assume that the valve spring was unable to keep the valve keeper tight and the keeper let go of the valve. The valve then fell onto the piston, and the piston and valve beat the snot out of each other.

As NIW says I hope the block didn’t get damaged!

Next step is to get the head off and see what damage has been done.

Good Luck.

Ok thanks yea doesn’t sounds good. I’ll post pictures once I get it open. Thank you

 

[L35]

Seems to be a lot of sludge in that engine, based on what the head looks like I imagine the oil pan is the same or worse. Time for a total tear down.

 

[Fluke216]

That's the valve guide, and seal.
The valve is inside the engine, in a thousand smashed pieces!

Yes I read back through the original posts and that valve is what caused the engine noise you complained about originally!

I assume that the valve spring was unable to keep the valve keeper tight and the keeper let go of the valve. The valve then fell onto the piston, and the piston and valve beat the snot out of each other.

As NIW says I hope the block didn’t get damaged!

Next step is to get the head off and see what damage has been done.

Good Luck.

Ok I pulled the head off.
Here’s what I got. Let me know what you guys think. Thanks for all the input and continued input everyone.

 

[Russell King]

Wait for the more experienced people to comment but that looks better than I expected!

It looks like the valve was just making the original noise, just being loose and hitting the top of the piston. Eventually it got bent to the side and that piston could no longer move up to allow for the crank to complete the rotation. That was when you hearing just the clicking of the starter and seeing the fan slightly rotate.

But you are now into a rebuild the engine scenario. So you will need to decide how much “rebuild” you want to do. Complete or partial rebuild?

For the minimum of just fixing what is damaged, you will need a new piston, piston rings and probably a rod for that piston along with a rod bearing. The head may be damaged beyond repair but a machine shop that rebuilds heads can give you that decision. The valve seat might be able to be replaced but that might not be enough. So you need a head rebuilt or a head replacement. You will need a new head gasket.

For the complete rebuild it is just every cylinder is repaired or replaced. All rod and main bearings are replaced. All gaskets will be replaced.

I would recommend you do a complete rebuild if you want the tractor to last.

Good luck and have fun.

 

[Fluke216]

Wait for the more experienced people to comment but that looks better than I expected!

It looks like the valve was just making the original noise, just being loose and hitting the top of the piston. Eventually it got bent to the side and that piston could no longer move up to allow for the crank to complete the rotation. That was when you hearing just the clicking of the starter and seeing the fan slightly rotate.

But you are now into a rebuild the engine scenario. So you will need to decide how much “rebuild” you want to do. Complete or partial rebuild?

For the minimum of just fixing what is damaged, you will need a new piston, piston rings and probably a rod for that piston along with a rod bearing. The head may be damaged beyond repair but a machine shop that rebuilds heads can give you that decision. The valve seat might be able to be replaced but that might not be enough. So you need a head rebuilt or a head replacement. You will need a new head gasket.

For the complete rebuild it is just every cylinder is repaired or replaced. All rod and main bearings are replaced. All gaskets will be replaced.

I would recommend you do a complete rebuild if you want the tractor to last.

Good luck and have fun.

Thanks for the response, yes want to wait and see what Wolfman and others have to say. I think you’re correct on what was going on there. I’m thinking a complete rebuild also. Thanks for the info here’s a better picture of the bottom of the head with the bend valve removed.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

WOW... GO buy a lottery ticket because a better result couldn't have been had.

Just a guess on the Head, I would replace it to be safe, but it doesn't look too bad????
The block good to go, you dodged a big bullet there.
You'll need a new connecting rod for sure!
If your going to go all the way in and do a full rebuild, you shouldn't be in too bad of shape.

 

[Russell King]

@Fluke216
would you please rotate the engine into three positions and take pictures of all positions?
1) with the damaged piston head at the bottom of travel so the maximum amount of cylinder wall is exposed
2) with the damaged piston head at the maximum height it can achieve
3) with one of the undamaged piston heads at the maximum height it can achieve

I am just curious enough to want to see how much the rod is short and to verify that there is zero damage to the cylinder wall (which is what I would expect to see)

Thank you in advance

 

[Fluke216]

WOW... GO buy a lottery ticket because a better result couldn't have been had.

Just a guess on the Head, I would replace it to be safe, but it doesn't look too bad????
The block good to go, you dodged a big bullet there.
You'll need a new connecting rod for sure!
If your going to go all the way in and do a full rebuild, you shouldn't be in too bad of shape.

That’s what I was thinking I was like I don’t know but this looks like best case scenario.

@Fluke216
would you please rotate the engine into three positions and take pictures of all positions?
1) with the damaged piston head at the bottom of travel so the maximum amount of cylinder wall is exposed
2) with the damaged piston head at the maximum height it can achieve
3) with one of the undamaged piston heads at the maximum height it can achieve

I am just curious enough to want to see how much the rod is short and to verify that there is zero damage to the cylinder wall (which is what I would expect to see)

Thank you in advance

Looks like there is a small nick on the cylinder wall I have circled in the picture. Thanks let me know what you guys think.

 

[Fluke216]

Let me know what anyone thinks then about the scratch on the cylinder wall and what should be done about it. Also if the you guys think it would be ok does anyone have a link to a good rebuild kit for this engine. Thanks everyone

 

[TheOldHokie]

Let me know what anyone thinks then about the scratch on the cylinder wall and what should be done about it. Also if the you guys think it would be ok does anyone have a link to a good rebuild kit for this engine. Thanks everyone

I think that cylinder is toast. Hone and fit oversize piston or replace if its a liner.

Dan

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

The cylinder wall is serviceable, it's not a race car or even a daily driver
A good honed cylinder job and that won't be an issue.
You will need a rod for that cylinder.
I'll look at kits for you, and give you a link.

 

[TheOldHokie]

The cylinder wall is serviceable, it's not a race car or even a daily driver
A good honed cylinder job and that won't be an issue.
You will need a rod for that cylinder.
I'll look at kits for you, and give you a link.

If that scratch is not .010 deep or deeper I will eat my hat.

Dan

 

[Fluke216]

The cylinder wall is serviceable, it's not a race car or even a daily driver
A good honed cylinder job and that won't be an issue.
You will need a rod for that cylinder.
I'll look at kits for you, and give you a link.

ok thanks. Let me know if you have a recommended tool for the cylinder honing. Or should it be taken somewhere for that. Also any other specialty tools that come to mind that I will need for a rebuild let me know thanks.