Kubota L2501 - initial review

[Oliver]

Thanks for posting, good to hear.
I received my 5' Woodmax flail last week but I haven't had the chance to try it, actually it's still in it's crate. Too wet here anyway.

 

[troverman]

Sounds good, I'll be curious as to how it goes.

Up here in NH we've had quite a bit of heat and humidity lately...brief downpour Saturday but otherwise dry.

 

[troverman]

**Update**

I've got 50 hours on my L2501 now, all pretty much mowing hours. Flail mower and brush hog. This tractor is really good and does everything I need it to. I'll be doing my own oil / filter change soon. Here's my pro's and cons list:

PROS:
-Fairly priced for this size of machine and capability
-Engine starts exceptionally well, glow plug requirement is only for cold weather
-Fuel efficient
-No DPF so no regenerations
-With 3" rear spacers and loaded rear R4 tires, this tractor is exceptionally stable on side hills
-Has enough power and torque to operate a 5-foot brush hog well, and powers my 4-foot flail mower well (I think a 5-foot flail would be fine as well)
-Loader has more lift height than most in this class, and has a high-quality, well made quick-attach system
-Loader is easily removed and attached from tractor
-High and low beam headlights, double amber rear flashers
-Very easy access to radiator screen; hydraulic hood lift
-Good sounding engine, low rated RPM, quieter than most
-Comfortable treadle pedal
-Large 10 gallon fuel tank

CONS:
-Doesn't lift much more than a B-Series
-HST is a little slow in all ranges compared to other Kubota HST tractors
-HST is louder than most
-Operator's platform is somewhat cramped and has a large transmission tunnel hump
-No tilt steering wheel
-Headlights could be brighter
-Instrument panel backlighting is not that great
-No drain hole in base of seat
-No standard HST cruise control

 

[Oliver]

Thanks for posting your 50 hour update. I only have about 12-13 hours on mine almost all using the loader or grapple and maybe one hour on our gravel road with a 72" rear blade. I agree with your pros and can't disagree with your cons other than to clarify the FEL will lift a good bit more than a small B and while not dramatic it lifts more than a large B as well (I came from a B2650). Two examples are where my B2650 lifted it's light duty 60" bucket full of gravel it did struggle a bit doing so. The L2501 lifts its larger 66" bucket full of the same gravel without struggling. The other thing I noticed was the 2650 loader twisted more than the L2501's loader does with an off balance load in the bucket or grapple.
The L2501 is definitely more stable than my previous B2650 as you would expect with the outside rear tire width being 6" wider stock, 10" now after adding 2" spacers. The added stability is the main reason I changed to the L2501. So Far I really like this tractor!

 

[troverman]

Another update -

Yesterday I used my 2501 to move some driveway Sure-Pac (a 10-wheeler load) from the pile into a brook with a culvert, as well as push back some log piles and move some dirt (friend is beginning to put in a long driveway).

Overall, the 2501 did a good job. The R4 tires get overwhelmed on soft / wet ground easily, but I didn't get stuck. I also dropped a large log that slid off the bucket and smacked the brush guard in front of the grille quite hard and bent it into a vee-shape. Fortunately, you can replace just the upper frame that pivots and the dealer is ordering me one for $90. But the grille guard did it's job and the plastic grille / headlights / hood were undamaged.

One vulnerability with the 2501 that has been discussed before but I had originally brushed aside is the steering system. The 2501 has two tire rods that are located ahead of the front axle. I managed to get a log wedged between the frame and tie rod - it didn't bend but easily could have. The steering box is also located in the "under bumper" area below the brush guard mount. It is protected on all sides, but not the bottom. As it is, I busted one of the two ball joint grease zerks off from hitting a log.

I still had my Kubota MX's 6-foot, deep capacity bucket on the front which weighs more than the stock 66" normal depth L2501 bucket, so lift capacity was reduced a bit. A full scoop of somewhat wet Sure-Pac must have weighed near 1000lbs, and the 2501 had trouble lifting it out of the pile, and then would only lift it about 3 feet off the ground. The back end, even with my 5-foot brush hog on the back, was very light and I ended up lifting a rear wheel on multiple occasions. However, the added capacity was greatly helpful in reducing the number of trips, especially uphill in muddy conditions.

4x4 and the rear diff lock worked great and were extremely helpful. I felt confident in lifting a lot of weight and moving it over tough terrain, because the L2501 has a very stout and large front axle. A lot beefier than most of its competitors.

Fuel consumption remained low. I could, however, smell hydraulic fluid because I think the system got hot from all the hard usage.

Great machine.

 

[Piper59]

I bought a L2501 DT the latter part of February and now have a lttle over 53 hours.After coming off of a "87 MF240 (2wd.no fel)this thing is nice.Have mostly used it for hauling dirt & 60/40 for fill and a little bush hogging.Too me the fel is very strong for a small tractor.Complete full loads are no problem with anything I've loaded so far.have also used pallet forks for brush and trees.This is my 3rd.tractor but my 1st.new one & I'm very pleased with it.Pretty impressed.

 

[Javabean]

Thanks for all the good info. I've found it extremely helpful, and I have to think other potential buyers will, too. Brochures and tire kicking and driving around a dealership only go so far.

I've been looking at a B2650, B2601, and L2501. I prefer to say under DPF/Regen HP, so these seem to be the best options to me. It's a horse farm, established pastures and fences, so mostly maintenance. Of course, once you have a tractor you end up finding uses for it that you never imagined when you started shopping.

The one thing about the L2501 that seems to give me heartburn is the fact that the split brakes are on the same side as the treadle pedal. So you have to be some sort of ballerina to use the brakes with your toes and hydro with your heel, or you have to have both feet on the right side of the hump or something. Maybe it's not that big of a deal nowadays, but I grew up on an 8N Ford and you steered with the brakes about as much as you did the steering wheel when doing any heavy work....

 

[troverman]

Thanks for all the good info. I've found it extremely helpful, and I have to think other potential buyers will, too. Brochures and tire kicking and driving around a dealership only go so far.

I've been looking at a B2650, B2601, and L2501. I prefer to say under DPF/Regen HP, so these seem to be the best options to me. It's a horse farm, established pastures and fences, so mostly maintenance. Of course, once you have a tractor you end up finding uses for it that you never imagined when you started shopping.

The one thing about the L2501 that seems to give me heartburn is the fact that the split brakes are on the same side as the treadle pedal. So you have to be some sort of ballerina to use the brakes with your toes and hydro with your heel, or you have to have both feet on the right side of the hump or something. Maybe it's not that big of a deal nowadays, but I grew up on an 8N Ford and you steered with the brakes about as much as you did the steering wheel when doing any heavy work....

The B2650/2601 are a bit more "luxury" tractors than the L2501, and they have electric over hydraulic PTO engagement, whereas the L2501 has a mechanical / clutch PTO engagement. For the B-series machines, having that style of PTO engagement means no clutch pedal is needed and frees up that space on the opposite side for split brakes.

Basically, split brakes are not usable on the 2501, with the HST. However, the machine does have power steering and I have never felt the urge to use split brakes. My MX4800 also has split brakes and the electric clutch with the brakes on the opposite side, and I have never used them. I think the sheer productiveness of the HST trans combined with power steering will mean you don't need to use them.

That said, I think the L2501 is quite a bit "more tractor" than either of those B-series options. Larger frame, more weight, and a larger engine. The 2501 has more torque than either B-series engine. But maybe the slightly smaller option just works better for you, who knows.

My 2019 L2501 replaced by 2013 B2920, which is basically the same exact machine as a B2601. I loved that and sometimes regret not keeping it and the L2501.

 

[mdhughes]

One vulnerability with the 2501 that has been discussed before but I had originally brushed aside is the steering system. The 2501 has two tire rods that are located ahead of the front axle. I managed to get a log wedged between the frame and tie rod - it didn't bend but easily could have. The steering box is also located in the "under bumper" area below the brush guard mount. It is protected on all sides, but not the bottom. As it is, I busted one of the two ball joint grease zerks off from hitting a log.

Doesn't the L2501 have the same guard that the L3901 has to protect the tire rod ends? The green arrow points to what I'm talking about.

 

[troverman]

It does not, but even with it the tie rods themselves are exposed and allowed a log to jam between them.

 

[Fordtech86]

My L3200 has the same shield that md referenced.

But I agree that it doesn’t offer a whole lot of protection to much. I’ve had logs jammed up in mine too. Also had an issue when clearing brush that the return hose from the steering box got pulled off, that made a nice mess. Luckily I killed the tractor as soon as I heard the pop because I thought I ran it thru the radiator (did get it in the fan). And another time had a log come up and bend the pan that the hood latch and battery tray are on,hood open while I was going, had to get a hammer to straighten it enough to get it to latch shut,that pan and the bottom of the hood still dented and it’s hard to get the hood to latch. I won’t say I haven’t used that tractor for things it probably isn’t designed for though, but it takes it pretty good.



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[troverman]

Anyone else with a 2501 confirm they do NOT have the guard? Mine definitely does not and the tie rod ball joints are fully exposed.

 

[mdhughes]

I have heard that some dealers take it off when they put the brush guard on that comes with the FEL.

 

[Fordtech86]

This is for my 3200 and the 2501 shows the same part number.

I’ll ask the guy I work with tomorrow if his 2501 has it. I did see a 2501 on eBay that didn’t have it.


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[Dunbar]

Mine has it. Purchased in September 2018, one year ago.

 

[troverman]

I'd like that plate. It at the very least protects the tie rod end ball joints, and would have kept my grease zerk intact.

Dunbar, thanks for that confirmation.

FordTech, thanks for the part number.

 

[troverman]

In addition to a new upper brush guard to replace the damaged one, I had the dealer add on the bumper plate ($45) and a new grease zerk. Hopefully in the future this problem does not recur.

 

[Oliver]

You have me concerned now, I better check if mine has the guard.

 

[troverman]

You have me concerned now, I better check if mine has the guard.

I'm curious if yours does, please report...

Here's the damage to my grille guard, and the other pic shows the tie rod ends exposed without the guard.

 

[BigG]

Mine has the guard. Purchased August 2018.