Welding another plate would provide more protection but there is really no where to support the rearmost part of an added plate and it could bend or break the weld. That said, I feel the factory plate provides adequate protection...just make sure yours has it.I just bought a 2501 today and they are supposed to deliver it later today or tommorrow. Would like express my appreciation for all the information provided. On the point about the plate that protects the tie rod ends. I'm wondering if another piece of steel welded on the bottom of the existing plate (parallel to the ground) would not increase protection quite a bit ? Appears to be room in the pictures but like I said I'm still awaiting delivery.
As far as filling the tires, wouldn't it be beat to park crossways on a grade in order to get the most fluid in the tire ?
I'm going to start a thread on pricing..........
Tornado, I just went out and checked mine. No seeps on either side, but the bolt wear was interesting. Sitting on the tractor, the right side front axle flange bolts have slight wear on them. Not nearly as much as the photo you posted, but some gray paint is missing. On the left side, the bolts are clearly untouched and perfectly covered in gray paint.One issue I have noticed with my 2501 now, as Ive been watching it over time, is a VERY slow leak of the front right side axle. You can see just a tiny bit of seepage over time in the little line where the two pieces of metal come together. Im posting a picture I found online that shows the location...It is the location just below the mans fingers in this picture, where the wheel assembly bolts onto the axle here. I can also see visible wear signs on the bolts that clearly indicate the dealer, or someone, put a wrench on them. I was told in another thread some weeks ago when I mentioned this that this wheel possibly ships from the factory not assembled on the tractor body, and is potentially assembled by the dealer, and this would explain the clear wear on these bolts from being wrenched. I bought the tractor brand new from a dealer lot and noticed this wear within first few hours. Ive always wondered about this....The leak is super slow. If you whipe the little crack down with a rag it takes many days to notice a tiny discoloration to reappear in the crack/line. Its just wet enough that you can see it and know that its seeping. Ive been told that this is sealed with an Oring, and the fix would be to take it apart and install a new Oring, or to simply live with it, given the seep is so little that Id estimate in a solid year you wouldn't have maybe 1 ounce or less seeping out. I have thus far elected to just ignore it because Im not someone who has done a lot of work on tractors, and while I have no doubt I could accomplish the fix likely, I just dont have a lot of interest in jumping on it. I would have to drain the axle I suspect, replace the O ring, get it all back together, then refill with fluid. Im not happy that it is seeping, but I also can see how slow and small it is.
Im curious if troverman or any others noted any similar leak here, or perhaps can see any wear on these bolts indicating they had been wrenched on either of the two front axles.
Hmmm interesting. Im gonna try to put some elbow grease on a wrench and tighten them down more and see if I can stop the seepage. Mine has wear on all 4 of the bolts, and it was there straight off the lot. What I was told was that its possible this wheel is not shipped put on from the factory, and that perhaps the dealer puts it on and puts it on. Im not sure if that isthe case, but I kinda hope it is, because if thats not what happens them im really really curious why those bolts were wrenched.Tornado, I just went out and checked mine. No seeps on either side, but the bolt wear was interesting. Sitting on the tractor, the right side front axle flange bolts have slight wear on them. Not nearly as much as the photo you posted, but some gray paint is missing. On the left side, the bolts are clearly untouched and perfectly covered in gray paint.
The L2501 is shipped with that wheel assembly removed so it will fit on a narrower crate. They also are shipped with the fenders ROPS and TPH linkages removed. It takes about 2 hrs for a average person to assemble them and install the wheelsHmmm interesting. Im gonna try to put some elbow grease on a wrench and tighten them down more and see if I can stop the seepage. Mine has wear on all 4 of the bolts, and it was there straight off the lot. What I was told was that its possible this wheel is not shipped put on from the factory, and that perhaps the dealer puts it on and puts it on. Im not sure if that isthe case, but I kinda hope it is, because if thats not what happens them im really really curious why those bolts were wrenched.
Troverman, are you trading in both tractors?Well guys, final update on the L2501. I am trading it back to the dealer I purchased it from next week, as part of a deal to buy a new Grand L4060 cab tractor.
My work is a lot of mowing, and the last couple of years I've become more bothered by breathing in pollen / dust / grass. In a typical day I'll mow for 5-6 hours, come home in the evening and have trouble breathing freely without taking Benadryl or similar. I've also had a couple of bee attacks which is annoying, even though I'm not allergic. And in the winter I do some plowing with my tractor. So it made sense to buy a cab tractor with heat and A/C and a sealed cab. The Lxx60 series tractor is quite "luxurious" as well, which I don't need but is nice.
That said, I'm very impressed with the L2501 and will miss it. If I could afford to keep it, I would. The engine outperforms it's "rated" horsepower by quite a bit, in my opinion. I'll miss the smell of diesel exhaust that isn't filtered by a DPF, and I still love the way the 2501 starts up with mechanical direct injection.
I may use the tractor on one more job before it goes...I have 5 large trees which have just shed a ton of leaves after the Nor'Easter we just experienced last night. Normally, I use my leaf blower to make giant piles, and then rake as much as I can fit into the tractor bucket, then dump them into my dump truck, then back to raking, etc. This year I am going to try using my York Rake attachment to move the piles all into one pile, and push / blow them into the woods. I have one of the most powerful backpack blowers on the market, and it works great but once a big pile of leaves is created it struggles to move the whole pile. The question is whether the rake can move the pile without tearing up the grass and whether the leaves just slip between the tines or not. I may post one more pic of this operation with the 2501. Certainly it will perform this task better than the 4060 would because it is smaller, lighter, and more maneuverable, especially under trees.
I will have owned the 2501 not quite 6 months when I trade, but I have put about 60+ trouble free hours on it, performed the first service, used it to flail mow, rake, grade, brush hog, and blade. It has performed exceptionally well and I would recommend this tractor to anyone.
I guess I'm still young...considered a 'millennial' albeit at the old end of that spectrum.The trade makes sense. Thanks for your review.
My allergies have really spiked up within the last 5 years.. Being still young, I***8217;m worried what could happen as I get older. Dad went through 3 larger Kubotas before finally settling on his cab***8217;d Grand L for this very reason. It makes a huge difference for him.