kubota l1500 reverse gear replacement

[jkk04]

I got the reverse gear from Cyprus that Bill told me.
The installation was not bad as long as I could access through the steering gear box hole.
Arrange of forks was not bad as thought. Just position the Hi Lo lever to the middle(neutral) then make all gears are free to turn(no engagement ) then put the reverse gear fork first and 2 other forks. At that moment ignore the pto fork.
Once put the forks on the reverse gear and two other gear then lift the cover from left side only about 1/2" then place the pto forks( the pto forks are most shortlist that is reason it was easy to put gear forks first)
After two top covers were on the positioned then installed the steering gear box and shift installed fuel shutoff valve, replace fuel filter( looks like it never been replaced) flushed engine oil couple time(engine oil looks like never been replaced too)
all works has done about 3 1/2 hours and the tractor runs very well.
Next challenge is the 3 point hitch. The previous owner made basic hitch which is no safety chain and no leveling between the left and right arms.
I already modified to put the safety chain and connection and will install the heavy duty bolt between the right sidebar. If it doesn't works. Will buy used one from local guy who has many used Kubota parts.
Will update.
Thank you for helping me specially Bill and wolfman.

 

[jkk04]

Once Installed the steering gear box , shift and wheel, it is noticed the hood is shaking and made lot of noise. Discovered the rubber ring is missing.
call local kubota dealer and the price is $60 for the rubber ring.
I made own with heavy duty fuel hose.[ It is better than oem ring.
and no more noise.

 

[billrigsby]

All Right, glad you got your baby back together and working properly, it's great to see an old machine revived

Yes, on the right hand side of the three-point it should be adjustable to be able to level it.



Bill Rigsby
Florissant CO

1972(?) KUBOTA L-1500-DT
Great Bend M10 48" Front End Loader
Bush Hog 48 (SQ48R-3) "Squealer Mower"
Atlas 48" Landscape Box
48" Harrow Rake
Rhino 60" Rear Blade
4 Seasons haul-all Dump Trailer
Leinbach L7200 Post Hole Auger (9")
Draw Bar with 2" Ball
28" Fork Lift Forks


Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S7 using Tapatalk

 

[jkk04]

All Right, glad you got your baby back together and working properly, it's great to see an old machine revived

Yes, on the right hand side of the three-point it should be adjustable to be able to level it.



Bill Rigsby
Florissant CO


Thank you Thank you so much Bill.
I am so glad talk with you hahahaha

 

[jkk04]

I just discovered another problem when I tried to hook up the 48" bush hog today and the bush hog was not stay on. It is slowly downed to the ground.
I review other thread that needs to change o ring in the rockshaft housing and ram cylinder.
Dose anybody know which rubber ring need to replace and some quick explanation how to replace?
Thank you
John

 

[Corney]

Yi need this information as well. My is leaking out the knob as well.

 

[billrigsby]

Numbers 9 and 11 are the two I change to repair this problem on mine two, Mite was not leaking out of the knob however. My problem was just that it was lowering it would not hold any weight.

You may also find that your cylinder is rusted if his been sitting you might have to take a cylinder hone to it I had to clean mine up a bit.

Bill Rigsby
Florissant CO

1972(?) KUBOTA L-1500-DT
Great Bend M10 48" Front End Loader
Bush Hog 48 (SQ48R-3) "Squealer Mower"
Atlas 48" Landscape Box
48" Harrow Rake
Rhino 60" Rear Blade
4 Seasons haul-all Dump Trailer
Leinbach L7200 Post Hole Auger (9")
Draw Bar with 2" Ball
28" Fork Lift Forks


Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S7 using Tapatalk

 

[jkk04]

Thank you for replying,
More question.
Did you take off whole housing(no 1 in the picture)) or just cover(no 5)?
mine is not leaking any fluid from knob.

I saw your baby restoring project pictures through the facebook. I was so impressed and known you are a professional for l1500.
If you have any chance to visit your sister, please visit my ranch. It will be much more than welcome
Thank you again Bill

 

[billrigsby]

I only removed the cover (5) I did not take the whole top part off

Bill Rigsby
Florissant CO

1972(?) KUBOTA L-1500-DT
Great Bend M10 48" Front End Loader
Bush Hog 48 (SQ48R-3) "Squealer Mower"
Atlas 48" Landscape Box
48" Harrow Rake
Rhino 60" Rear Blade
4 Seasons haul-all Dump Trailer
Leinbach L7200 Post Hole Auger (9")
Draw Bar with 2" Ball
28" Fork Lift Forks


Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S7 using Tapatalk

 

[jkk04]

I found no 8 (24 on the parts book attached) oring piece was missing.
But I couldn't find part number from L175 parts book. It is showing in the picture not in part number section
If you know the number please let me know.
Other than that all o rings and backup ring are good shape
Will order No 12 7 9 o rings as well.
Will update once completed
Thank you again.
John

 

[jkk04]

Found O ring at ACE hardware store which is 2 1/8" ID 2 3/8" OD 1/8" thick.
It is perfect size and installed in 10 minutes. The bush hog is stayed on.

Thank you

 

[jkk04]

Hi, Bill!
I found other ongoing problem and need your help.
I have discovered oil leaking bad from left rear axle.
Before remove tire, checked any loose vertically for inner or outer bearing failler but not at all.
Took off brake and final drive case and removed axle nut for find out what cause of leaking.
I understood the inner bearing has to be removed for removing bull gear and axle shift.
Question is how to remove the inner bearing. Is it to ok using 3 jaw puller?
Thank you for helping.
John

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

You shouldn't need a puller, just a couple good raps with a brass hammer will pop it off, or put the nut back on but loose to the bearing put a good piece of hardwood over it, and hit it squarely with a hammer.

 

[jkk04]

You shouldn't need a puller, just a couple good raps with a brass hammer will pop it off, or put the nut back on but loose to the bearing put a good piece of hardwood over it, and hit it squarely with a hammer.

Thank you so much Wolfman.
Took off the axle shift on your advise.
Now it needs to be removed outer bearing to find out condition of seal
Would you please tell me how to remove outer bearing?
Does it need just raps from top of shift?
Thank you

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

This is a good place for thumps with a plastic / head blow / hard rubber / or 2x4.
Be easy on it, you don't want to damage the flange.

Best thing to do if you have a good set of saw horses or a bench is to put a couple of 2x4's or 2x6's on edge on either side under the flange block and use the weight of the axle like a slide hammer (pick it up a little and drop it on the 2x4's).

 

[billrigsby]

Yep, Agreed, the flange (or Cover as they call it)
is just cast aluminum or worse pot metal

While I did not have a need to remove the rear axles from mine,
if it is anything like the front it will all come apart easily.

 

[jkk04]

Removed outer bearing, using 2x4 piece of wood and hammer downed.
The seal was so dirty that cause of leaking I believe.
Ordered through the local dealer.
will update
Thank you so much Wolfman and Bill.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Excellent!

 

[D2Cat]

That seal has been around the mountain a time or two!

 

[jkk04]

That seal has been around the mountain a time or two!

Indeed..........
So much sludge deposited in fanal housing and bottom of transmission.
Probably, previous owner not took care this poor toy well.
But, I am sure this poor toy will be so happy on new owne
John