Kubota B1550D hydraulic fluid in engine crankcase.

[Porcello garage]

Hey guys, Im new to the forum and looking for some thoughts and advice. My B1550 doesnt have any visible hydraulic leaks, my hydraulic fluid after a few hours needs to be topped off, and my engine crank case keeps filling past the full line on my dipstick. I'm making an eduacated guess that my issue is a seal on the engine driven hydrualic pump. I did see another forum on here that someone was having the same issue on a b1550 hst and the seal and o-rings fixed the issue.
My question is what seal(s) am I replacing would it be p/n 31381-76190( Ref 80). Or is it other o-rings too? I will order the hydrualic pump to gear pump holder gasket (ref 20). Do I need to order the gasket from gear pump holder to crank case or no becuase that will not need to be removed? Is there any other things I need to buy? Thanks in advance!

 

[TheOldHokie]

Hey guys, Im new to the forum and looking for some thoughts and advice. My B1550 doesnt have any visible hydraulic leaks, my hydraulic fluid after a few hours needs to be topped off, and my engine crank case keeps filling past the full line on my dipstick. I'm making an eduacated guess that my issue is a seal on the engine driven hydrualic pump. I did see another forum on here that someone was having the same issue on a b1550 hst and the seal and o-rings fixed the issue.
My question is what seal(s) am I replacing would it be p/n 31381-76190( Ref 80). Or is it other o-rings too? I will order the hydrualic pump to gear pump holder gasket (ref 20). Do I need to order the gasket from gear pump holder to crank case or no becuase that will not need to be removed? Is there any other things I need to buy? Thanks in advance!





View attachment 176619 View attachment 176622

Shaft seal #80. It can be replaced without taking the pump apart.

Dan

 

[Porcello garage]

Shaft seal #80. It can be replaced without taking the pump apart.

Dan

Thank you, so should i order the gasket for the pump as well? Also If i have a 1640A loader on mine do you recommend I remove it?

 

[TheOldHokie]

Thank you, so should i order the gasket for the pump as well? Also If i have a 1640A loader on mine do you recommend I remove it?

I would order the gasket. You only need to remove the loader if it obstructs access to the pump.

Dan

 

[Porcello garage]

I would order the gasket. You only need to remove the loader if it obstructs access to the pump.

Dan

Do you think I need to removed bolt joint ref 90?

 

[Russell King]

There are also some o-rings at the points where the pipes enter and exit the pump. They are probably fine to reuse but I personally replace them anytime I break an older connection just for peace of mind.

added on edit

Those joints look like banjo bolts so instead of o-rings there will be two crush washers per bolt (4 total).

 

[Porcello garage]

There are also some o-rings at the points where the pipes enter and exit the pump. They are probably fine to reuse but I personally replace them anytime I break an older connection just for peace of mind.

are they 120, and 110?

 

[Russell King]

Crush washers are the #110 and #120

 

[Porcello garage]

Crush washers are the #110 and #120

Do you think the 020 packings are needed on top of the pump wear 090 comes thru?

 

[TheOldHokie]

Do you think I need to removed bolt joint ref 90? View attachment 176626

You have to remove/disconnect both top and bottom pipes. Replace all the crush washers - 110, 120 and the ones on top.

 

[Porcello garage]

You have to remove/disconnect both top and bottom pipes. Replace all the crush washers - 110, 120 and the ones on top.

Im not sure what you mean sorry, so I need to removed the hyd selector and the pump so should i order qty 1 of 110 and 120 and then order 130 o-ring for bottom pope? Do I need the 020 o rings?

 

[TheOldHokie]

Im not sure what you mean sorry, so I need to removed the hyd selector and the pump so should i order qty 1 of 110 and 120 and then order 130 o-ring for bottom pope? Do I need the 020 o rings?

The hydraulic pipes and the outlet block are attached (sandwiched) to the pump with two banjo bolts. You should replace all of the washers and o-rings between those components. You can get away with reusing the rubber seals but not the copper washers
No code has to be inserted here.

 

[Russell King]

Do you think the 020 packings are needed on top of the pump wear 090 comes thru?

You seem to need three separate parts.
Two #20 on top

Then on bottom there is one #110 and one #120

 

[Porcello garage]

Thank you so much guys, where do you guys recommend I buy or download the service manual. Does kubota have a shop manual with removal and install instructions with proper torques? Or am I just a spoiled avaition mechanic with manuals like that lol. I have never removed anything on my b1550 so I want to make sure I do it right.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Thank you so much guys, where do you guys recommend I buy or download the service manual. Does kubota have a shop manual with removal and install instructions with proper torques? Or am I just a spoiled avaition mechanic with manuals like that lol. I have never removed anything on my b1550 so I want to make sure I do it right.

Free download:

https://www.kubotabooks.com/AutoIndex/index.php?dir=Tractor%20Owners%20Manuals/&file=B1550_B1550HST_B1750_B1750HST_B2150_B2150HST_97897-10226%5B1%5D%20WSM.pdf

You probably wont find tightening torques but this is not an aircraft.

Dan

 

[Porcello garage]

Hey all, So I finally got all the parts, and I got the pump removed. Is this damage or machined on the pump shaft and the bearing on the engine side?

I also don't see any visuable damage to the shaft seal. But going to replace it anyways whats the best shop practice to pull the seal screw in a few screws and pull on it?

Thanks in advance!

@TheOldHokie
@Russell King





earing on the engine side?

 

[TheOldHokie]

Hey all, So I finally got all the parts, and I got the pump removed. Is this damage or machined on the pump shaft and the bearing on the engine side?

I also don't see any visuable damage to the shaft seal. But going to replace it anyways whats the best shop practice to pull the seal screw in a few screws and pull on it?

Thanks in advance!

@TheOldHokie
@Russell King


View attachment 177559


View attachment 177558 earing on the engine side?

Thats damage to both the tang on the pump and the drive slot.

Dan

 

[Porcello garage]

Thats damage to both the tang and the drive slot.

Dan

What would have caused this to happen? I am gonna see if those parts are still available.. I assume it would be dumb to put it back together like this.

 

[TheOldHokie]

What would have caused this to happen? I am gonna see if those parts are still available.. I assume it would be dumb to put it back together like this.

I would suspect a bad bearing. Wobbly shaft probably took out the shaft seal. Thats about $2k in parts.

Dan

 

[Porcello garage]

I would suspect a bad bearing. Wobbly shaft probably took out the shaft seal. Thats about $2k in parts.

Dan

Wow I didnt even look at the price yet.. The shaft doesnt feel wobbly at all. I'm going to look up the parts now.. The tractor runs fine besides oil mixing