Kubota B1550D hydraulic fluid in engine crankcase.

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I use a hook tool to grab the bearing.

 

[Porcello garage]

Sorry about the circlip reference, I should have looked at the diagram more.

Since it is a bolted together assembly they will use retainers (spacers) to hold the bearings in place.

I use a hook tool to grab the bearing.

I tried that it seems the gear shaft and the bearing move together about 1/8 in but it stops. I think the gear shaft and the bearing seem kinda stuck together I will try taping the shaft with brass hammer?

Can you tell me what bearings you recommend I change on the Parts diagram? I dont want to pull the adaptor if its not nessacary enless you think I should change the one that goes into the engine as well

 

[TheOldHokie]

I tried that it seems the gear shaft and the bearing move together about 1/8 in but it stops. I think the gear shaft and the bearing seem kinda stuck together I will try taping the shaft with brass hammer?

Can you tell me what bearings you recommend I change on the Parts diagram? I dont want to pull the adaptor if its not nessacary enless you think I should change the one that goes into the engine as well

I would replace the ball and needle bearings. The ball bearing is probably a light press fit on the shaft. Any puller that will grap it will pull it. The new bearing can be driven on.

Dan

 

[Porcello garage]

I would replace the ball and needle bearings. The ball bearing is probably a light press fit on the shaft. Any puller that will grap it will pull it. The new bearing can be driven on.

Dan

Okay if that is the case then I shouldnt need to remove the pump housing adaptor from the block ill order (160,140, and 130)

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

You might need to remove the housing to remove the needle bearing from the case.
I don't remember if there is room for it to fit past the other gear????

 

[Porcello garage]

You might need to remove the housing to remove the needle bearing from the case.
I don't remember if there is room for it to fit past the other gear????

Okay so last night I removed the adapter housing. I was able to get the ball bearing out but it came out with the gear shaft still attached it was really stuck together. I ended up getting them separated. The ball bearing has a very slight grind noise. The needle bearing also feel to have maybe some of grind to it. So I ordered 2 new bearings. Here are some pics

I did notice a small groove on the spacer between the gear shaft and the needle bearing and it had some wear on it so I ordered a new one of those too.

As for the shaft coming out of the engine I don’t feel any play and I’m going to keep that ball bearing in the engine and not replace it.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Okay so last night I removed the adapter housing. I was able to get the ball bearing out but it came out with the gear shaft still attached it was really stuck together. I ended up getting them separated. The ball bearing has a very slight grind noise. The needle bearing also feel to have maybe some of grind to it. So I ordered 2 new bearings. Here are some pics

I did notice a small groove on the spacer between the gear shaft and the needle bearing and it had some wear on it so I ordered a new one of those too.

As for the shaft coming out of the engine I don’t feel any play and I’m going to keep that ball bearing in the engine and not replace it.

The bearing is a press fit on the shaft and a slip fit in the housimng - stsndard design. You will have to press or drivethe new bearing on.Do that on the inner race only. If use the outer race you will be buying another bearing.

Dan

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Okay so last night I removed the adapter housing. I was able to get the ball bearing out but it came out with the gear shaft still attached it was really stuck together. I ended up getting them separated. The ball bearing has a very slight grind noise. The needle bearing also feel to have maybe some of grind to it. So I ordered 2 new bearings. Here are some pics

I did notice a small groove on the spacer between the gear shaft and the needle bearing and it had some wear on it so I ordered a new one of those too.

As for the shaft coming out of the engine I don’t feel any play and I’m going to keep that ball bearing in the engine and not replace it.

The grove in the spacer is an oil groove, it's supposed to be there.
Yea any grind in the bearing is bad.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

The bearing is a press fit on the shaft and a slip fit in the housimng - stsndard design. You will have to press or drivethe new bearing on.Do that on the inner race only. If use the outer race you will be buying another bearing.

Dan

That bearing is not pressed onto the shaft, it's a tolerance fit.
Almost none of the bearings on a Kubota parts are pressed in place.
There are a few rare instances where they are pressed, but I can't think of one off the top of my head.

 

[TheOldHokie]

That bearing is not pressed onto the shaft, it's a tolerance fit.
Almost none of the bearings on a Kubota parts are pressed in place.
There are a few rare instances where they are pressed, but I can't think of one off the top of my head.

Then why is it stuck? One press and one free fit is pretty much a standard and used to locate the assembly.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Then why is it stuck? One press and one free fit is pretty much a standard and used to locate the assembly.

Did you see the rust in the pictures?

 

[TheOldHokie]

Did you see the rust in the pictures?

I am lazy and dont click on links ?

 

[Porcello garage]

Then why is it stuck? One press and one free fit is pretty much a standard and used to locate the assembly.

I think it was hard to get out of inner race of the bearing because of the damage on the slot maybe? My plan is to still use old gear shaft but Ill up it in the freezer before putting it in the race.

@North Idaho Wolfman that oil grove was facing the needle bearing is that the correct installation? becuase on the back side of the spacer on the gear shaft there was alittle bit of wear. There is also 2 plugs on the adaptor house that you can see the gear. Is that used for timing or for adding any oil?

 

[Porcello garage]

Did you see the rust in the pictures?

The rust is a good point if oil was blowing past that seal I thought that would have prevented rust

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I think it was hard to get out of inner race of the bearing because of the damage on the slot maybe? My plan is to still use old gear shaft but Ill up it in the freezer before putting it in the race.

@North Idaho Wolfman that oil grove was facing the needle bearing is that the correct installation? becuase on the back side of the spacer on the gear shaft there was alittle bit of wear. There is also 2 plugs on the adaptor house that you can see the gear. Is that used for timing or for adding any oil?

The plugs were designed for oiling it.
Nobody ever does.

And yes the slot being hammered on will affect the shaft size.

 

[Porcello garage]

The plugs were designed for oiling it.
Nobody ever does.

And yes the slot being hammered on will affect the shaft size.

I think i will start oiling that adaptor lol.. What I assume it would just be engine oil? The bearing going into that actual crankcase is pretty sealed so I cant picture much oil getting into there. I wonder if any manual talks about oiling it

 

[whitetiger]

The plugs were designed for oiling it.
Nobody ever does.

I suspect the lack of lube may have played a small part in the wear between the drive tang on the shaft and the gear.

 

[Porcello garage]

I also noticed when I bought the tractor the previous owner was running rotella t6 5w-40 in winter and rotella T1 40sae in summer. The manual calls for 10w-30 should I run 30w? I have some 30w on my shelf

 

[TheOldHokie]

I also noticed when I bought the tractor the previous owner was running rotella t6 5w-40 in winter and rotella T1 40sae in summer. The manual calls for 10w-30 should I run 30w? I have some 30w on my shelf

You want a multi-grade CK-4 diesel engine oil. The T6 is a really good year round choice in either 10W30 or 5W40. There is no value in switching oils between seasons.

Dan

 

[Porcello garage]

I received in the parts and gonna put the tractor back together. I had one question. right now I have my 1640a loader disconnected for access. The loader is still filled with old hydraulic fluid I believe some UTD mixed with napa universal tractor fluid. My tractors transmisson is completely drained so I want to put fresh fluid in the entire system. how should I drain my loader or is it even worth doing? as im going to be putting way more fresh fluid in trans.