Wolfman, before I contact the mechanic, I called the rebuild shop in Orlando, Fl(Nozzle Master, been in business for more than 30 years) and the person there, quoted me that rebuilding a pump started at $350 to $700( depending on the work needed) after that, I called the mechanic shop and he told me that he will no only replace the pump and rebuild it but he will go over and cleaning the injectors and hard lines(already did myself and I was planning to replace the injectors) that was the three hs labor. About rebuilding the pump, he didn't know how bad it was so called the higher price, could be less. But I'm ready to do it myself, only need some directions(you already did). So, I remove the 4 bolts and then pull the pump up, be sure I don't mess with the shims, that's it?. Could be that the springs or the piston inside are clogged with gunk? anything else? Will the pump cohttps://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=48213&stc=1&d=1586351123me along easily? Thanks again, Daniel.https://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=48214&stc=1&d=1586351123
kubota 2250 won't start
- Thread starter ddiaz396@aol.com
- Start date
North Idaho Wolfman
Moderator
Staff member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
Daniel,
Let me see if I can give you the rundown to pull the pump and the injectors.
Remove the throttle linkage, remove the Intake, then loosen the hold downs on the injectors, There is a tool you can get to pop the injectors out of their holes.
Your tractor uses pencil injectors, they are not rebuildable or cleanable, most shops won't or can't test them, I just replace them as needed.
I would also replace the glow plugs while I was in this deep.
Put pieces of rag in all the injector and glow plug holes to keep debri out of the cylinders.
Now move to the Injection pump, pull the stop linkage and side cover off, remove the 2 bolts and 2 nuts that hold the injection pump down, pull pump up, there is a slot in the block where the fuel injection rack pin needs to fit through, you can go into the side to move the rack pin if needed to get it out.
Remove any shims ( they can be a one to a few and they can be very thin) stuck on the bottom of the pump housing and save them, these are the injection pump timing shims, and they will get reused, they are the same no matter what pump you use.
Have the pump tested or rebuilt and get new injectors and glow plugs.
and a new intake gasket.
Anything comes up along the way, just ask for help or clarification.
Let me see if I can give you the rundown to pull the pump and the injectors.
Remove the throttle linkage, remove the Intake, then loosen the hold downs on the injectors, There is a tool you can get to pop the injectors out of their holes.
Your tractor uses pencil injectors, they are not rebuildable or cleanable, most shops won't or can't test them, I just replace them as needed.
I would also replace the glow plugs while I was in this deep.
Put pieces of rag in all the injector and glow plug holes to keep debri out of the cylinders.
Now move to the Injection pump, pull the stop linkage and side cover off, remove the 2 bolts and 2 nuts that hold the injection pump down, pull pump up, there is a slot in the block where the fuel injection rack pin needs to fit through, you can go into the side to move the rack pin if needed to get it out.
Remove any shims ( they can be a one to a few and they can be very thin) stuck on the bottom of the pump housing and save them, these are the injection pump timing shims, and they will get reused, they are the same no matter what pump you use.
Have the pump tested or rebuilt and get new injectors and glow plugs.
and a new intake gasket.
Anything comes up along the way, just ask for help or clarification.
Last edited:
Having a hard time removing the pencil injectors!!! I will need the injector extractor tool...sprayed PB blaster for two days, but nothing...any suggestion? Thanks, Daniel.
Last edited:
North Idaho Wolfman
Moderator
Staff member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
My only real suggestion would be to get the tool, some are a real pain to get out!
If you're up to it, you can save about $130 by fabricating you own. Doesn't have to be perfect or pretty if you're just using it a few times.
I made this one out of "stuff" I had laying around and adapted it to use on my slide hammer.
I made this one out of "stuff" I had laying around and adapted it to use on my slide hammer.
Attachments
Worked all morning...got two out!! the last one, son of the b#%#!!. Tomorrow I will do it!! Looks good D2cat...I prefer not to spend the money in a tool I never will use again...
Attachments
Well, you can save yourself some grief by installing good injectors back in. If you end up with some that don't work you'll get to do it all over again!
D2Cat, when you said good injectors....which ones should I get? I found some in Total Tractors for $41...problably Chinese, also I will replace de glow plugs(Wolfman advise)...I found those ones for $14 each. I will be replacing both. Thanks, Daniel
PS also I plan to use anti-seize for sure this time.
PS also I plan to use anti-seize for sure this time.
Last edited:
Well, the last injector is out!! The damn thing broke on me and I have to remove the head cylinder to get the broken piece but is done...
Attachments
I'm thinking to reuse the head gasket(it's in good shape)but I noticed that who removed it before used black RTV...should I apply RTV??. Also, does somebody know torque specification for the Kubota L2250 head cylinder? Thanks, Daniel
North Idaho Wolfman
Moderator
Staff member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
No you can't reuse the head gasket, it will not seal and hold.
Make sure you use a new O-ring on the oil tube too.
Clean both the head and the block completely, use NO sealer of any kind, head gaskets are self sealing.
Make sure you use a new O-ring on the oil tube too.
Clean both the head and the block completely, use NO sealer of any kind, head gaskets are self sealing.
Cylinder head and block cleaned. Should I clean the holes before a place the new pencil injectors? If yes....How? Thanks, Daniel.
Attachments
North Idaho Wolfman
Moderator
Staff member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
Just take some brake parts cleaner to the holes with a round brush, I use shotgun bore brushes to clean holes like that.
Wolfman, there is a covered nut in the back (facing the rear of the tractor)of the injection pump, that has a little spring inside...should be remove before pulling the pump out?. Thanks, Daniel.
Attachments
North Idaho Wolfman
Moderator
Staff member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
Ok, finally I got the last part (o ring) to put this head cylinder back together...does anybody knows the torque number for an L2250 Cylinder Head? Thanks.
After $529 dollars my injection pump is back!! Took it to a shop in Orlando, Fl and they rebuilt it. Now, I removed the fuel tank to clean it and I found a black stuff very sticky...tried to remove it with the pressure washer but no luck!! Any advice on how to clean a plastic fuel tank???
What a project!
Plastic fuel tank - very careful. Would try about a cup of bb's; and, kerosene, or isopropyl alcohol. Not brake cleaner or other solvent that would go after plastic. Swirl bb's as your agitator. You might get lucky with a good degreaser detergent. Again, plastic is a petroleum product so be careful.
Plastic fuel tank - very careful. Would try about a cup of bb's; and, kerosene, or isopropyl alcohol. Not brake cleaner or other solvent that would go after plastic. Swirl bb's as your agitator. You might get lucky with a good degreaser detergent. Again, plastic is a petroleum product so be careful.
Success!!!, finally my tractor is working again !!. Yesterday I installed the pump, bleed lines and the tractor started almost immediately. After a long time, it is good to have my Kubota again. Now I have to replace the seals on the front axle. Thanks for all the help the members gave me. I couldn't have done it alone. I saved hundreds of dollars doing it myself and learned a lot about repairing tractors. The reason of why the tractor wouldn't start was the injection pump all the time!!!
