kubota 2250 won't start

[North Idaho Wolfman]

open injector pump and cleaned everything very well with carburetor cleaner

This statement really doesn't sit well with me.

You opened the injection pump and cleaned it with carburetor cleaner!

#1 Carburetor cleaner can eat the seals right out of a diesel injection pump!
#2 Any carburetor cleaner left in the system will cause it to not start!

 

[ddiaz396@aol.com]

I will follow your advise.....if you think that injectors are ok, you know more than me...... I will hook everything back, bleed the injectors and hope for the best.....if dosn't start, I will take it to the mechanic.......the funny thing is if I spray w40 in the intake the tractor start right away and runs fine ( Iknow that its not good!) Wolfman, Thanks a lot!!! If you ever come to Florida I will pay you a beer!!! you really know your staff. Daniel
PS is a company in Wilmintong that will service your fuel injectors....they cleaned, try and if they can fix it, they dont charge you.......the fee is 12,50$ each injector....is name is Bill and the phone is 302-654-1150

 

[ddiaz396@aol.com]

will a defective injection fuel pump cause the L2250(1986) with 1600 hours, to make the tractor crank but won't start???

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

will a defective injection fuel pump cause the L2250(1986) with 1600 hours, to make the tractor crank but won't start???

Yep, but the chances of the entire pump going out at the same time are astronomically low.

First bottle feed the Injection pump, put a fuel line from a bottle above the engine and feed fuel to the injection pump.

If it still will not start, crack all three injection lines at the injectors, set throttle to high, crank in small intervals (keeps the starter from over heating) to bleed the air out of the lines, tighten line it should fire.

If it does start, it's not the injection pump or the injectors.

Check back when you've done that.

 

[ddiaz396@aol.com]

Thanks Wolfman, I did bleed the three injectors until fuel, not bubbles come out but I haven't done the direct fuel to the injector pump( I cracked to see if fuel was coming out and it did). I noticed that the bleeding Cock Assembly( 14311-60504 14311-60500 14311-60580 for KUBOTA) was leaking, a little be but a drop of diesel was there...could be that loose engine prime through there? I ordered a new one . Thanks.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

If you can bleed it and it will start and run, then after sitting a while it goes dead again, look to the lines, filter housing, lift pump (usually the issue) or yes you could have an issue if it's getting air in the system from the jet start valve.

So start with that then check back in.

 

[ddiaz396@aol.com]

OK, went to Kubota and talked with the service manager(Great guy, his name is Joey and is the manager in Kubota at Plant city Fl...strawberry capital!) He told me that the tractor must be losing prime in some of the rubber hoses connected from the bleeding valve in the top of the lifting pump). So went to auto part store and got some fuel lines and replaced some of the lines, also got a new bleeding valve and replaced it( when I was tightening, broke the banjo screw and need to replace it{carefull!! Kubota doesn't make it anymore...got last one at the store after searching for a week}) also empty the fuel tank(for cleaning), replace the fuel filter and fuel lines. Now I got fuel at the fuel filter, got fuel at the entrance of the lift pump and at the end(pump bleeding is pumping) but a can not get fuel at the injectors. Cracked the nut and ....nothing!! no fuel. How long I have to crank the starter for the fuel bleed at the injectors? Also, before I sprayed DW 40 at the manifold and the tractor will start and run, but now is not getting fuel. How can I bleed the top lines? The bleeding Cock valve is different, should it be open or closed? Thanks in advance.
PS sorry about my written English, but English is my second language.

 

[ddiaz396@aol.com]

Running out of options....anyone knows a good mobile diesel mechanic in the Central Fl area(Disney area)?? Thanks.

 

[GeoHorn]

PS sorry about my written English, but English is my second language.

Your English is EXCELLENT! Don’t be self-conscious about that!

 

[D2Cat]

All the lines have to be tight, air tight. The banjo bolt you replaced needs a copper washer on each side to seal it. The throttle needs to be at maximum fuel when bleeding air out to get fuel to injectors. Have nuts at the injectors loose a few turns so air can escape. Turn engine over in 20 second burst, then wait 20 seconds for starter to cool, so it doesn't overheat. May take 5-6 attempts to get air out. Patience required!!

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Have you verified that your getting fuel to the injection pump?
Either remove the vent line off the jet start valve( bleeder valve) and with the valve open (left turns) crank it, fuel should pulse out.
Or crack the banjo bolt to let it leak fuel, it should pulse out as you crank it.

Once you verify there is fuel getting to the injection pump, close the jet start valve (right turns), or tighten the banjo bolt, and with all the injector lines cracked at the injectors, crank till you get fuel coming out, if you don't get fuel, you have an injector pump issue.

 

[ddiaz396@aol.com]

I will do as advised. Thanks, D2Cat and Wolfman.

 

[ddiaz396@aol.com]

Wolfman, I use the auxiliary tank, as you told to do, to directly sent fuel to the injection pump cracked the lines at the injectors but...no fuel. Can I remove the manifold(needs to be done?), remove the fuel lines at the injection pump(nuts very close together, needs to use crowfoot wenches?), to see if the injection pump is pumping fuel?? Difficult to do? advisable? Thanks.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Wolfman, I use the auxiliary tank, as you told to do, to directly sent fuel to the injection pump cracked the lines at the injectors but...no fuel. Can I remove the manifold(needs to be done?), remove the fuel lines at the injection pump(nuts very close together, needs to use crowfoot wenches?), to see if the injection pump is pumping fuel?? Difficult to do? advisable? Thanks.

Do you have the ability to take some pictures, like from a phone?

If so let me see what you have and then I can walk you threw some other steps to do before you remove the lines or the pump.

If you can't post pictures on here send me a message and I'll give you my contact info to help out further.

 

[ddiaz396@aol.com]

I will!!! Thanks Wolfman...

 

[ddiaz396@aol.com]

https://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=47535&stc=1&d=1583170606

 

[ddiaz396@aol.com]

Update, I managed to bleed the lines to the injectors(lose banjo at lift pump) and the tractor started!! but if I turn the key off, it will not start if I don't spray the manifold with starting fluid (i mix it with DW40)also needs to be in 2000RPM or higher if not tractor will stall!!! But it's running

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

You need to do a compression test!

 

[Russell King]

And stop using starting fluid on it


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[ddiaz396@aol.com]

Wolfman, do I need any special tools to remove the injectors or is a straight job? Remove the fuel lines(metal) lose the injectors with a 23 wrench and pull them out? Thanks, Daniel