I just bought my first tractor!

[nerwin]

^^^^^
It’ll be fine. Just grease the loader fittings when you get home and it’s really difficult to see the hydraulic level through the site glass in certain lighting conditions. It’s probably okay. Take another peak when you get ready to take it home.

Mike

Thanks! I been researching grease and now I'm like burned out. I never seen people argue so much over grease before, it's crazy! I know that grease is better than no grease. I have typically always used NGL #2 on everything. But I never had a loader before which folks seem to say grease with moly is better than regular ol general purpose NGL #2.

I'm about to order a Dewalt cordless grease gun. I really want to be able to use it for my other stuff too. Soo is something like Lucas red and tacky ok to use ok the loader pins? Or should I just dedicate it to moly stuff? I have heard some use mobile-1 synthetic grease.

I just want to make sure I'm doing it right.

 

[nerwin]

Get some hyd dye at the JD dealer. Add to the hyd oil to easily see the oil. Cost about $16. Your oil level may be fine, just to the very full mark and you can't see it.

That's a good idea. That red dye isn't harmful to it?

 

[Old Machinist]

Thanks! I been researching grease and now I'm like burned out. I never seen people argue so much over grease before, it's crazy! I know that grease is better than no grease. I have typically always used NGL #2 on everything. But I never had a loader before which folks seem to say grease with moly is better than regular ol general purpose NGL #2.

I'm about to order a Dewalt cordless grease gun. I really want to be able to use it for my other stuff too. Soo is something like Lucas red and tacky ok to use ok the loader pins? Or should I just dedicate it to moly stuff? I have heard some use mobile-1 synthetic grease.

I just want to make sure I'm doing it right.

I use 5% moly but it's getting harder to find at a decent price. My full size backhoe consumes 2 tubes at each greasing. My last order I made the mistake of buying a case of NGL #1 that I haven't tried yet. It is probably too thin for Florida use but I'm stuck with it. The DeWalt grease gun is nice but overkill for a normal machine. I bought one for my backhoe but I don't bother using it all the time on the tractor and mower.

On the heat subject you can always sell the side by side and use the money on a Curtis Cab w heat.

With a little research and mechanical ability a DIY third function can be done for around $300.

Good deals on low hour machines always worry me. You have to wonder what the previous owner had trouble with to cause them to take the beating of trading it in. May Be they just didn't like the pedals or comfort? I had the same worry with mine but I have put 54 trouble free hours on it so far. It did go into regen in the first hour I owned it and did another at 20 hours. Not sure if it should be doing it that often but the last 30 hours have not done it.

You definitely want to address that "white" sight glass. Hopefully it's just a little low on fluid but I wouldn't operate the machine until I saw clear fluid at least to the halfway point. Is it clearly a white background or could it be milky colored oil?

 

[nerwin]

I use 5% moly but it's getting harder to find at a decent price. My full size backhoe consumes 2 tubes at each greasing. My last order I made the mistake of buying a case of NGL #1 that I haven't tried yet. It is probably too thin for Florida use but I'm stuck with it. The DeWalt grease gun is nice but overkill for a normal machine. I bought one for my backhoe but I don't bother using it all the time on the tractor and mower.

On the heat subject you can always sell the side by side and use the money on a Curtis Cab w heat.

With a little research and mechanical ability a DIY third function can be done for around $300.

Good deals on low hour machines always worry me. You have to wonder what the previous owner had trouble with to cause them to take the beating of trading it in. May Be they just didn't like the pedals or comfort? I had the same worry with mine but I have put 54 trouble free hours on it so far. It did go into regen in the first hour I owned it and did another at 20 hours. Not sure if it should be doing it that often but the last 30 hours have not done it.

You definitely want to address that "white" sight glass. Hopefully it's just a little low on fluid but I wouldn't operate the machine until I saw clear fluid at least to the halfway point. Is it clearly a white background or could it be milky colored oil?

Yeah the sight glass is pure white for what I could tell shinning my phones light in there. The hydraulic cylinders slide back and forth because there's like no grease but it's sitting in the rain for a while.

The previous owner wanted a bigger tractor with a cab. I guess he preferred JD for that. Hopefully it's not a bad tractor, it starts and runs like new.

 

[rc51stierhoff]

I still think you found a unicorn. My recommendation would be get the manual, and find all the check/service points. Do the first service and change all the fluids out and you’ll not have to look back. Does everything need changed…probably not, but then you will know what’s in there and when put in…just my thought) As far as the fluids and grease, I follow the manual. If those don’t meet your expectation or budget, if need other options there are plenty of lubrication engineers on the forum. Keep it lubed, keep it greased, and keep the rubber side down.

Enjoy it

 

[nerwin]

I still think you found a unicorn. My recommendation would be get the manual, and find all the check/service points. Do the first service and change all the fluids out and you’ll not have to look back. Does everything need changed…probably not, but then you will know what’s in there and when put in…just my thought) As far as the fluids and grease, I follow the manual. If those don’t meet your expectation or budget, if need other options there are plenty of lubrication engineers on the forum. Keep it lubed, keep it greased, and keep the rubber side down.

Enjoy it

That might be a good idea. Little costly but peace of mind too. Worth it. My other thought was bringing to a Kubota dealer and have it inspected and serviced to make sure it's good to go.

 

[Yotekiller]

I think this is a fair deal. I see used low hour (under 100) 2501's being sold in my area regularly for 16-17K. There is a 2023 2501 DT with under 100 on FB marketplace by me for $15K right now. So 19,500 with the attachments you got seems fair.

My nephew is buying a like new 4701 HST with right at 100 hours for $22K. Now that's a deal if ya ask me!

 

[nerwin]

I think this is a fair deal. I see used low hour (under 100) 2501's being sold in my area regularly for 16-17K. There is a 2023 2501 DT with under 100 on FB marketplace by me for $15K right now. So 19,500 with the attachments you got seems fair.

My nephew is buying a like new 4701 HST with right at 100 hours for $22K. Now that's a deal if ya ask me!

I'm a little nervous with it. Part of me wishes I bought new because I don't know much about them. It's a risk and I could be throwing money away for all I know. Their hours are this dealership suck. This Thursday/Friday I'll be able to go there and actually test it fully before giving them money.

I think the used tractor market varies location wise. Here in Vermont they seem to be more expensive used. We have less dealers here too.

Perhaps it's buyer remorse kicking in but yeah I'm just skeptical now from what others have mentioned.

I'll have to figure out what I need and how much it will cost to do a complete service on it right off.

I mean the tractor still has Kubota filters on it as they're all the Kubota grey color. I will definitely be checking the engine oil next time and probably bring a gallon of hydraulic fluid. Greasing the loader I can do at home ..I'm sure it won't hurt it to move it point a to point b.

 

[rc51stierhoff]

That might be a good idea. Little costly but peace of mind too. Worth it. My other thought was bringing to a Kubota dealer and have it inspected and serviced to make sure it's good to go.

IMO either do self or take to dealer to do would be an ounce of prevention. I’d still recommend get manual and at least check / locate all service points to familiarize self with the machine. Or don’t, it’s up to you. I’d check those points either way even after dealer services to make sure it was done. Probably not necessary but mistakes happen or something could be overlooked. Be aware wheel bolt torque responsibility is on the machine owner.

 

[Yotekiller]

I'm a little nervous with it. Part of me wishes I bought new because I don't know much about them. It's a risk and I could be throwing money away for all I know. Their hours are this dealership suck. This Thursday/Friday I'll be able to go there and actually test it fully before giving them money.

I think the used tractor market varies location wise. Here in Vermont they seem to be more expensive used. We have less dealers here too.

Perhaps it's buyer remorse kicking in but yeah I'm just skeptical now from what others have mentioned.

I'll have to figure out what I need and how much it will cost to do a complete service on it right off.

I mean the tractor still has Kubota filters on it as they're all the Kubota grey color. I will definitely be checking the engine oil next time and probably bring a gallon of hydraulic fluid. Greasing the loader I can do at home ..I'm sure it won't hurt it to move it point a to point b.

I think you will do just fine with this tractor. They are a very simple tractor with not much to go wrong. It has basically no electronics on it or emissions junk to worry about. I would not be scared of the hydraulics not showing up. The fluid is so clear that it may be full and you just can't tell. I added the JD red dye to my 2502 to make it more easily seen, especially in case I get a leak.

Once you get to operate it, you will know all you need to know. Let it get up to temp and run it for a bit.

 

[nerwin]

I think you will do just fine with this tractor. They are a very simple tractor with not much to go wrong. It has basically no electronics on it or emissions junk to worry about. I would not be scared of the hydraulics not showing up. The fluid is so clear that it may be full and you just can't tell. I added the JD red dye to my 2502 to make it more easily seen, especially in case I get a leak.

Once you get to operate it, you will know all you need to know. Let it get up to temp and run it for a bit.

Alright. I can get the red dye for it at least and go from there. That will be a good indication. Doesn't the 2502 use a dip stick? I heard others saying even with dip sticks. It's hard to see the hydraulic fluid.

 

[nerwin]

IMO either do self or take to dealer to do would be an ounce of prevention. I’d still recommend get manual and at least check / locate all service points to familiarize self with the machine. Or don’t, it’s up to you. I’d check those points either way even after dealer services to make sure it was done. Probably not necessary but mistakes happen or something could be overlooked. Be aware wheel bolt torque responsibility is on the machine owner.

I'm gonna print out the manual from Kubota. I can atleast read it and go from there. I've serviced other stuff before, I'm not worried about that too much. I'll definitely be checking wheels torque specs. Although I found out yesterday it has what appears to be (according to what's left of the barcode) Kubota made (or branded atleast) 1.5" wheel spacers in the rear. So I don't know if that changes the torque specs or not. I know they were installed due to the tire chains. But the wheel spacers are probably worth keeping.

 

[Yotekiller]

Alright. I can get the red dye for it at least and go from there. That will be a good indication. Doesn't the 2502 use a dip stick? I heard others saying even with dip sticks. It's hard to see the hydraulic fluid.

Yeah the 2502 has a dip stick in front floor board. I put the red dye in it mainly to help me see if I get a leak. I use my tractor mainly in my woods maintaining trails, clearing brush and doing firewood work. I have a high probability of snagging a line....

 

[nerwin]

Yeah the 2502 has a dip stick in front floor board. I put the red dye in it mainly to help me see if I get a leak. I use my tractor mainly in my woods maintaining trails, clearing brush and doing firewood work. I have a high probability of snagging a line....

I assume the red dye doesn't affect the properties of the UDT-2.

Yeah definitely be careful in the woods haha. I have seen people make/buy guards to bolt under the tractor to protect the hydrostatic filter and hydraulic filter and what not.

I don't have much of a wooded area so I'm not worried about that stuff...mainly lots of landscaping work and cleaning up trees around my property...plus the biggest thing driveway maintenance and moving heavy stuff in as out of the garage/truck. Man those forks are gonna be handy!

The tractor is a bit overkill for what I need. I really wanted the LX2620, it was just the right size but when I saw the standard L series I loved how much wider it looked. Just looked more stable. I think the LX series sit even higher. But I also like how beefy the build is on the standard L. Those axles, they big...even the loader itself the booms are just beefy over the one on the LX.

 

[Yotekiller]

I assume the red dye doesn't affect the properties of the UDT-2.

Yeah definitely be careful in the woods haha. I have seen people make/buy guards to bolt under the tractor to protect the hydrostatic filter and hydraulic filter and what not.

I don't have much of a wooded area so I'm not worried about that stuff...mainly lots of landscaping work and cleaning up trees around my property...plus the biggest thing driveway maintenance and moving heavy stuff in as out of the garage/truck. Man those forks are gonna be handy!

The tractor is a bit overkill for what I need. I really wanted the LX2620, it was just the right size but when I saw the standard L series I loved how much wider it looked. Just looked more stable. I think the LX series sit even higher. But I also like how beefy the build is on the standard L. Those axles, they big...even the loader itself the booms are just beefy over the one on the LX.

I researched the JD dye before I put it in and everything I read said it was safe. I have ran it for quite a while now.

Yup, guards are super important. I ordered and just received a 2x4 piece of 11ga metal that I will be making a grill guard and hydraulic block guard for my 2502. Just waiting for deer season to end as it has my undivided attention at the moment.

The 2501 is a brute of a tractor for it's HP. And the 2501 has a much larger engine than the 2610 does so while the same HP, it has much more torque/power. The work a tractor can put out is all about weight and the 2501 is substantially more tractor.

 

[Old Machinist]

Hopefully the previous owner passed along the paper manuals for everything with the tractor. Mine had the paper manuals for the tractor, loader, and mower. I still downloaded the PDF versions.

You can call Kubota's warranty department with the serial number and they will tell you the in service date and what warranties are left on it. They also told me the selling dealer and the original purchasers name. I don't think they were supposed to divulge the original purchasers name but I got it from both Kubota and a dealer. The warranty remains with the tractor no matter who owns it I'm told. Not sure if any extended warranty goes with the tractor or not. That would be a good question to ask. My tractor was just out of the 2 year bumper to bumper warranty. They tell me I still have 4 years of powertrain warranty and 3 years emissions warranty.

Kubota will NOT tell you if it has a lien on it. I really wanted someone to tell me the tractor was free and clear but no satisfaction was to be had.

I also called the selling dealer and they were no help at all. They claimed they didn't have any service history on my 200 hour tractor. Their service department did admit they filled the rear tires with a weak solution of antifreeze and water which I kind of figured by looking at some I drained and tested. I told them they shouldn't fill tires with toxic fluid and if they were they should at least put enough in to prevent freezing. My hydrometer reads plain water but it has a green tint.

 

[nerwin]

Hopefully the previous owner passed along the paper manuals for everything with the tractor. Mine had the paper manuals for the tractor, loader, and mower. I still downloaded the PDF versions.

You can call Kubota's warranty department with the serial number and they will tell you the in service date and what warranties are left on it. They also told me the selling dealer and the original purchasers name. I don't think they were supposed to divulge the original purchasers name but I got it from both Kubota and a dealer. The warranty remains with the tractor no matter who owns it I'm told. Not sure if any extended warranty goes with the tractor or not. That would be a good question to ask. My tractor was just out of the 2 year bumper to bumper warranty. They tell me I still have 4 years of powertrain warranty and 3 years emissions warranty.

Kubota will NOT tell you if it has a lien on it. I really wanted someone to tell me the tractor was free and clear but no satisfaction was to be had.

I also called the selling dealer and they were no help at all. They claimed they didn't have any service history on my 200 hour tractor. Their service department did admit they filled the rear tires with a weak solution of antifreeze and water which I kind of figured by looking at some I drained and tested. I told them they shouldn't fill tires with toxic fluid and if they were they should at least put enough in to prevent freezing. My hydrometer reads plain water but it has a green tint.

Yep. The dealer that sold the tractor told me it's a good machine. The previous owner didn't abuse it at all. Still has powertrain warranty until 2028 apparently. Even Kubota said so too when I contacted them. So that's atleast good.

I'm gonna print off my manual just in case. Might as make use of my dusty laser printer lol.

 

[D2Cat]

That's a good idea. That red dye isn't harmful to it?

Not harmful, that's what it's made for!! Your Kubota tractor will not puke it out because it's JD.

 

[nerwin]

Not harmful, that's what it's made for!! Your Kubota tractor will not puke it out because it's JD.

Hahaha, atleast it won't bleed green!

Now just to figure out grease. Perhaps I'm overthinking it, some good multi-purpose will be fine I'm sure. But I wanna make sure it's good for cold weather.

 

[D2Cat]

Don't get too hung up on grease. You're not using the machine 8-10 hrs a day of continue use. If you grease your loader every 10 hours (of loader use) with just about any grease available today you will be able to give the loader/tractor to your grand kids and it still working.