I just bought my first tractor!

[nerwin]

Don't get too hung up on grease. You're not using the machine 8-10 hrs a day of continue use. If you grease your loader every 10 hours (of loader use) with just about any grease available today you will be able to give the loader/tractor to your grand kids and it still working.

That's what I figured. I keep seeing people saying...oh no you MUST use moly grease on the loader pins otherwise you'll destroy it! But you can't use that stuff for the wheel bearings and such.

 

[mcmxi]

That's what I figured. I keep seeing people saying...oh no you MUST use moly grease on the loader pins otherwise you'll destroy it! But you can't use that stuff for the wheel bearings and such.

If you're not into the "one grease to rule them all" approach you can use two types of grease and follow Kubota's owner's manual and use moly-lithium (dark grey) on the loader and polyurea (green) on the tractor. This is my approach and it works for me.

As @D2Cat says, regular greasing is important regardless of whether you use polyurea or moly-lithium on the loader.

 

[nerwin]

If you're not into the "one grease to rule them all" approach you can use two types of grease and follow Kubota's owner's manual and use moly-lithium (dark grey) on the loader and polyurea (green) on the tractor. This is my approach and it works for me.

As @D2Cat says, regular greasing is important regardless of whether you use polyurea or moly-lithium on the loader.

Well I have a little grease gun I use for my mower. I can just use that for the non loader stuff. I'll just buy a bigger grease gun with the better stuff for the loader and just do it manually for now.

 

[PaulL]

I've always greased my loader with regular grease. I use high speed grease on most things, because my mower and my chipper both need it (in my mind), because they both spin at high speed. I figure my loader won't mind using it too. I don't use the loader all that much, so it's probably getting over greased - supposed to be every 10 hours of operating, but about 90% of my operation is mowing....so that'd make the loader every 100 hrs of engine time. Probably gets done every 30-40 hrs.

An L2501 should be good for a few thousand hours. You'll probably do a couple hundred a year at most. The difference between moly grease and non-moly might mean your pins wear out in 39 years instead of 40. And you can buy new pins.

 

[nerwin]

I just got the word!!! Should have the tractor Friday!

 

[nerwin]

I've always greased my loader with regular grease. I use high speed grease on most things, because my mower and my chipper both need it (in my mind), because they both spin at high speed. I figure my loader won't mind using it too. I don't use the loader all that much, so it's probably getting over greased - supposed to be every 10 hours of operating, but about 90% of my operation is mowing....so that'd make the loader every 100 hrs of engine time. Probably gets done every 30-40 hrs.

An L2501 should be good for a few thousand hours. You'll probably do a couple hundred a year at most. The difference between moly grease and non-moly might mean your pins wear out in 39 years instead of 40. And you can buy new pins.

That's what I'm seeing. I have a lot of stuff to grease and for years I've used lucas xtra heavy duty grease on everything and never had issues. My zero turn mower is from 2010 and I grease it all the time with that lucas stuff and there's little to no wear on anything.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Don't over grease the front axle pivot pin or you will blow out seals and fill the diff or the propeller shaft with grease.

Do you have the WSM (aka Service manual)?
The OPM is good to have but the WSM has far more information in it.

 

[nerwin]

Don't over grease the front axle pivot pin or you will blow out seals and fill the diff or the propeller shaft with grease.

Do you have the WSM (aka Service manual)?
The OPM is good to have but the WSM has far more information in it.

I don't have the WSM. I don't think the grease fittings on the chassis needs to be greased at the same interval as the loader does, am I right in thinking that?

I'm just debating getting a cordless grease gun, I could do it manually but I have other things I need to grease regularly. This would be super handy.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I don't have the WSM. I don't think the grease fittings on the chassis needs to be greased at the same interval as the loader does, am I right in thinking that?

I'm just debating getting a cordless grease gun, I could do it manually but I have other things I need to grease regularly. This would be super handy.

Yea the front axle pivot pin is greased much less often!

Look at the top right at the envelope.

 

[BAP]

Here is the Workshop Manual for free on Kubotabooks.

https://www.kubotabooks.com/AutoIndex/index.php?dir=Tractor%20Owners%20Manuals/&file=L2501%20WorkShopManual.pdf

 

[nerwin]

Today's the day! Borrowed a 10K equipment trailer from a local trailer dealership to get it. Glad I kept my digital brake controller but when plugged it in the truck and it didn't work (it's been years)..I'm like uh oh. Checked the fuse panel and sure enough the fuse for the brake controller was blown. Replaced it and everything works!! The trailer towed really well, its an old beat up trailer with all new hubs, brakes, wiring, lights and seals. Glad they let me borrow it for free.

I don't have any chains with binders so I'm gonna strap the hell out of it. I have heavy duty straps so it should be OK...just going 20 miles. I watched many videos on learning how to secure the tractor to the trailer, everyone does it many different ways.

When I get her home, I'll be sure to share some pictures! Oh an I got a surprise for ya'll

 

[Speed25]

Today's the day! Borrowed a 10K equipment trailer from a local trailer dealership to get it. Glad I kept my digital brake controller but when plugged it in the truck and it didn't work (it's been years)..I'm like uh oh. Checked the fuse panel and sure enough the fuse for the brake controller was blown. Replaced it and everything works!! The trailer towed really well, its an old beat up trailer with all new hubs, brakes, wiring, lights and seals. Glad they let me borrow it for free.

I don't have any chains with binders so I'm gonna strap the hell out of it. I have heavy duty straps so it should be OK...just going 20 miles. I watched many videos on learning how to secure the tractor to the trailer, everyone does it many different ways.

When I get her home, I'll be sure to share some pictures! Oh an I got a surprise for ya'll

Just make sure you block the back end of the trailer to prevent the weight of the tractor from lifting the back end of the tow vehicle! My L2501 would lift the back end of a 4wd F-350 with loaded tool boxes if not blocked.

This thread almost makes me miss my L2501 that I sold back in April, though your price makes me feel great about what I sold mine for, haha. GREAT tractor! I just used it for all the big stuff I needed before downsizing to a more appropriately-sized BX for my property. I mostly used mine in the woods with decent slopes and learned a lot about tractors/balance/loading doing that with the narrow L2501. She'll definitely take some abuse. You're also right about using forks for moving brush. While not as handy as a grapple, I moved a lot of brush piles, tree trunks, etc with mine. Very handy in the woods.

 

[Yotekiller]

Very good advice about blocking the rear of the trailer so not to lift the truck. My trailer has jacks on the rear and I use them every time.

You would be shocked if you seen the places I have had my 2502 in doing the things I have done. It's a very stable tractor.

 

[nerwin]

Just make sure you block the back end of the trailer to prevent the weight of the tractor from lifting the back end of the tow vehicle! My L2501 would lift the back end of a 4wd F-350 with loaded tool boxes if not blocked.

This thread almost makes me miss my L2501 that I sold back in April, though your price makes me feel great about what I sold mine for, haha. GREAT tractor! I just used it for all the big stuff I needed before downsizing to a more appropriately-sized BX for my property. I mostly used mine in the woods with decent slopes and learned a lot about tractors/balance/loading doing that with the narrow L2501. She'll definitely take some abuse. You're also right about using forks for moving brush. While not as handy as a grapple, I moved a lot of brush piles, tree trunks, etc with mine. Very handy in the woods.

It doesn't look narrow to me, looks significantly wider than the B series I was looking at. I am worried it might be too heavy for my property but worse case, I'll use it for a while and see how it goes and maybe trade it in for an LX. But perhaps it will be just fine for the price.

I've been around the B series and the BX series and it to me they sound really loud and higher pitched. The L series just sound quieter to me. Is it just me?

 

[jyoutz]

I don't have the WSM. I don't think the grease fittings on the chassis needs to be greased at the same interval as the loader does, am I right in thinking that?

I'm just debating getting a cordless grease gun, I could do it manually but I have other things I need to grease regularly. This would be super handy.

Take a look at this HF grease gun. It is well built and works really well. It normally sells for $139 without the battery and charger, but they frequently have a sale where you can buy a battery and charger for $99 and get a free tool. This grease gun is one of the free tools you can choose.

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www.harborfreight.com

 

[Old Machinist]

If you are set on a cordless grease gun and not married to a particular brand Tractor Supply has the Porter Cable on sale for $149 with battery and charger. You don't need a high amp hour battery for greasing.

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www.tractorsupply.com

For occasional use the loader isn't going to care what type of grease you put in the pins as long as you grease it.

 

[Yotekiller]

Looks like the Harbor Freight gun is actually a much better deal than the Porter Cable.

 

[Speed25]

It doesn't look narrow to me, looks significantly wider than the B series I was looking at. I am worried it might be too heavy for my property but worse case, I'll use it for a while and see how it goes and maybe trade it in for an LX. But perhaps it will be just fine for the price.

I've been around the B series and the BX series and it to me they sound really loud and higher pitched. The L series just sound quieter to me. Is it just me?

The L was just narrow for being taller. It fit well between trees, but the center of gravity just felt high to me since I was on a lot of slopes (tires were loaded). It was probably a good thing as it reminded me to always keep my load as low to the ground as possible. Going to the BX, I really missed the grunt and HST from the 2501. That engine was a torque monster and the HST always did exactly what I wanted, when I wanted. The HST in the BX sucks by comparison and only takes pedal inputs as mere suggestions instead of commands. The exhaust note is definitely different though. The 2501 was deeper and less tinny by all means. Kinda like a 6.2l V8 vs. a 2.0 4-cylinder. My BX is pretty quiet though, so I don't think the BX is louder, but with the higher pitch, it just seems that way with the sound carrying farther.

For grease, I just use my Milwaukee gun since I have other Milwaukee stuff. Can't complain since it was a present from the wife!

 

[nerwin]

Well got the tractor loaded..no issues! Strapped the hell out of it haha.

Found out that the rear tires at loaded with beet juice.

 

[jyoutz]

Looks like the Harbor Freight gun is actually a much better deal than the Porter Cable.

It is when you catch it on sale, otherwise the Porter Cable is cheaper. But HF seems to run that deal every month.