Hanix Mini Giant excavator?

[Lil Foot]

The 3/8"- is 0.147" and the 3/8"+ is 0.162".

Not sure I understand the reasoning behind sizing the drive squares on these adjustable reamers.
I have (3) .250 +/- adjustable reamers, and the drive square on one is .250, one is .218, and the other is a round shank.
One would think a 3/8 reamer would have a bigger shank that a 1/4 reamer.
I normally use tap wrenches to drive these, but on rare occasions I have put them in collets in the mill.

I have a pretty fair range of sizes from 3/16" to this bad boy, 1 1/2" to 1 13/16". Takes a lot of torque to drive this one.
I used the tap wrench below, 41" long.

 

[Lil Foot]

Very cool that you have some 'free' pin stock. Free, yeah let's choose to think of it in those terms..

 

[Lil Foot]

First pin from the "free pin stock".
(base pin of the boom cylinder, with the worn one)

 

[Lil Foot]

Got the boom cylinder re-installed.

 

[Lil Foot]

I decided that the hydraulic lines for the jackhammer that I am never going to find should come off- they are just another source for leaks or a catastrophic failure if I snag them on something. They have plugs at the hammer end, so it should be a simple matter to remove the plugs at that end, pull the lines off, and install the plugs at the opposite end.
Yeah, right!

Pulled the plug at the hammer end of the small line, and a little oil dribbled out- no problem.
Pulled the small line off, and the oil that filled the line dribbled out- no problem.
Cleaned everything up and installed the plug.

Pulled the plug at the hammer end of the large line, and a little oil dribbled out- no problem.
Pulled the large line off, and the oil that filled the line dribbled out- along with a huge 6" geyser of oil from the fitting that is apparently connected directly to the bottom of the hydraulic tank.
Now I have the oil draining from the line, and a fountain of oil from the fitting. (approximately the size of a 3/4" pipe)
Jammed my thumb in the hole, and wondered how I would get out of this mess. (I was alone, no help within shouting distance)
Eventually I jammed a wadded up rubber glove & a toothbrush handle in the fountain, which allowed me time to get the plug ready, and then make a rubber gasket to seal the vented hydraulic reservoir cap.
That reduced the geyser to a slow welling, and I was able to install the plug. I didn't get it dry, ( the way I prefer to seal things up) but the sealant I used is supposed to work directly in oil.
We shall see. I haven't fired it up yet, but under static pressure it has no leaks.
I figure I lost about 1 1/2 gals of hydraulic oil.
Anyway, it looks a lot cleaner and less cluttered without those lines.
In pic #2 you can clearly see the (4) attachment points for the lines.
I figure I got rid of some weight in grease/dirt also.

 

[Lil Foot]

Here is a clean unit:

 

[ve9aa]

Enjoying following along from time to time.

Keep up the great work. Maybe I missed it earlier, but are you planning on any kind of fresh paint and decals when you're done?

I just watched "diesel creek" (youtube) R&R an old and grungy excavator and just pressure washing, a few decals and a lick of paint on key areas brought that thing from "look what the cat dragged home from deep in the woods" to "I am not embarrassed to have this parked in my yard " (my words, not his)

;-)

 

[fried1765]

Here is a clean unit:

I have little doubt that YOUR Hanix will be, and look much better, when the refurbishment is complete!

 

[Lil Foot]

Maybe I missed it earlier, but are you planning on any kind of fresh paint and decals when you're done?

Probably not, unless I can get access to a hot water pressure washer. It is just too dirty.
Example: The third pic in post #345 shows the two elbows that the jackhammer lines were connected to.
For about an hour, I soaked & scrubbed those with a stiff bristle brush, scraped with a putty knife & screwdriver, used about 1/2 can of engine degreaser and a few sprays of brake cleaner, and ruined a 1/2 dozen rags, just to get them clean enough to unscrew them without fear of getting dirt in the system.
The vertical surface with the (4) bolts has been pressure washed at least (4) times, maybe more.

I think all that crap is a mix of grease, hydraulic oil, red clay, AZ dirt, & tarantula spit, all baked by 30 years of 115+F temps.
Kinda like firing clay in a kiln.

 

[fried1765]

Probably not, unless I can get access to a hot water pressure washer. It is just too dirty.
Example: The third pic in post #345 shows the two elbows that the jackhammer lines were connected to.
For about an hour, I soaked & scrubbed those with a stiff bristle brush, scraped with a putty knife & screwdriver, used about 1/2 can of engine degreaser and a few sprays of brake cleaner, and ruined a 1/2 dozen rags, just to get them clean enough to unscrew them without fear of getting dirt in the system.
The vertical surface with the (4) bolts has been pressure washed at least (4) times, maybe more.

I think all that crap is a mix of grease, hydraulic oil, red clay, AZ dirt, & tarantula spit, all baked by 30 years of 115+F temps.
Kinda like firing clay in a kiln.

Perhaps try brushing on lacquer thinner, and/or paint remover, and then using a rented "Hotsy".
Make several tries, you might be quite surprised.

 

[Vigo]

I think all that crap is a mix of grease, hydraulic oil, red clay, AZ dirt, & tarantula spit, all baked by 30 years of 115+F temps.
Kinda like firing clay in a kiln.

I found some stuff on my parts tractor that was so tough I think the best way to get it off would be to build a vibratory tumbler as big as a house and throw it in there for a couple of days.

Have you ever seen dry ice blasting? I would LOVE to play with that.

 

[Lil Foot]

Have you ever seen dry ice blasting?

I used that in the lab years ago, along with LN2 blasting, but we were trying to improve cleaning at a microscopic level, nothing like this.
I briefly looked walnut shell blasting, but too expensive, and they said I would need a front loader & dump truck for the clean up.

 

[fried1765]

I used that in the lab years ago, along with LN2 blasting, but we were trying to improve cleaning at a microscopic level, nothing like this.
I briefly looked walnut shell blasting, but too expensive, and they said I would need a front loader & dump truck for the clean up.

Walnut shells are very gentle.
Would glass beads, or just plain sand be too harsh?
Sand would be cheap!

 

[Lil Foot]

Sand & glass beads are very aggressive, probably strip the paint, besides they get in everywhere and are very abrasive.

 

[Lil Foot]

Was able to do a little more on the Hanix.
Turned down another pin. (#30 in pic#2)

Then I pulled off the Dump Link. (#32 in pic #2)
Soaked it overnight in 50% Purple Power, but still had to scrub it.
Pulled a broken zerk out, (#36) and pressed out the badly worn bushings. (#33 thru #37) They came out HARD, and galled the bore pretty badly, so I reamed the bore (in stages) to clean up, with an adjustable reamer and a #8 Greenfield Tap Wrench.

 

[woodman55]

Was able to do a little more on the Hanix.
Turned down another pin. (#30 in pic#2)

Then I pulled off the Dump Link. (#32 in pic #2)
Soaked it overnight in 50% Purple Power, but still had to scrub it.
Pulled a broken zerk out, (#36) and pressed out the badly worn bushings. (#33 thru #37) They came out HARD, and galled the bore pretty badly, so I reamed the bore to clean up, with an adjustable reamer and a #8 Greenfield Tap Wrench.

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I was thinking a few days ago, that you had not posted anything about it in quite a while.

Thanks for the update.

 

[Lil Foot]

I was thinking a few days ago, that you had not posted anything about it in quite a while.

Thanks for the update.

I was out of town for about 3 weeks, just starting to catch up on things.

 

[Vigo]

Can you show the parts that came out 33-37? Curious what they look like since i can't discern a reason for there to be so many pieces to it, from the diagram.

I have a couple of broken pallet jack i am going to tear down and try to make fork attachments out of, and i noticed the long pivot shaft in them is 1".. and i need to make several more pins for the B670 I'm still fixing up (i.e. constantly trying and failing to get back to working on..) so i considered that lucky.. Nothing like the amount of effort you're having to go through for this!

 

[Lil Foot]

#37 were o-rings (long gone)
#35 were grease seals (discarded)
#34 spacer
#33 hardened bushings w/grease groove (one discarded)

The plan is to make one long bushing to replace the two plus the spacer. (more bearing surface area to spread the wear)
I am still undecided whether or not to try to cut grease grooves; I will have to build something to cut "figure 8" grooves like the originals, not sure it is worth the effort.

 

[Dieseldonato]

The fancy figure 8 grooves probably arnt 100% nessisary. A lot of heavy equipment bushings either don't have them, a straight one, sometimes a long spiral. Doesn't seem to be material dependent.