Lil Foot
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
1979 B7100DT Gear, Nissan Hanix N150-2 Excavator
I trust that you will figure it out!The next stumbling block is removing the worn out bushings & spacers in the stick.
No amount of penetrating oil, heat, or cold combined with a 10 ton hydraulic gear/bearing puller/pusher will get them to move. (at all)
Next step will be to try and split the bushings with a tungsten carbide hacksaw blade, then use the puller/pusher.
They are steel, as hard as a file, and have probably been in there since the late '70s.
If that doesn't work (or takes too long), I will have to split them by grinding a groove with a dremel style tool with small grinding stones.
I would love to saw them lengthwise with dremel cutoff discs, but I can't find a dremel or die grinder with a suitable 90 degree head that will fit inside a 30mm (1.181) diameter bore.
Maybe I should make something.....
Are you talking sawing it by hand with the hacksaw?The next stumbling block is removing the worn out bushings & spacers in the stick.
No amount of penetrating oil, heat, or cold combined with a 10 ton hydraulic gear/bearing puller/pusher will get them to move. (at all)
Next step will be to try and split the bushings with a tungsten carbide hacksaw blade, then use the puller/pusher.
They are steel, as hard as a file, and have probably been in there since the late '70s.
If that doesn't work (or takes too long), I will have to split them by grinding a groove with a dremel style tool with small grinding stones.
I would love to saw them lengthwise with dremel cutoff discs, but I can't find a dremel or die grinder with a suitable 90 degree head that will fit inside a 30mm (1.181) diameter bore.
Maybe I should make something.....
They sell adapters for Dremel tools that are 90 degree heads and another that is a flexible extension that has a smaller size but is not 90 degrees..The next stumbling block is removing the worn out bushings & spacers in the stick.
No amount of penetrating oil, heat, or cold combined with a 10 ton hydraulic gear/bearing puller/pusher will get them to move. (at all)
Next step will be to try and split the bushings with a tungsten carbide grit hacksaw blade, then use the puller/pusher.
They are steel, as hard as a file, and have probably been in there since the late '70s.
If that doesn't work (or takes too long), I will have to split them by grinding a groove with a dremel style tool with small grinding stones.
I would love to saw them lengthwise with dremel cutoff discs, but I can't find a dremel or die grinder with a suitable 90 degree head that will fit inside a 30mm (1.181) diameter bore.
Maybe I should make something.....
I have both, too big to get in there.They sell adapters for Dremel tools that are 90 degree heads and another that is a flexible extension that has a smaller size but is not 90 degrees..
I have two different styles, also too big.I also have a thing that attaches to my 1/4 inch impact driver (for screws). That is a flexible extension that ends with a 90 degree. You might be able to adapt some cutoff wheel to it. The connection is that hex type connector for driver bits.
I have one of the Ingersall Rand air saws that I have had for 30+ years. I don’t use it much, but works great getting into small spaces.Would any type of reciprocating saw work?
There are air tool versions
I've never had reason to try it.....but I've heard you can run a bead of weld around the inside of a steel bushing or broken bearing race that seems to defy all other methods of removal. The cooling weld will shrink the inside diameter of the bushing/bearing race and break the bond between the bore and said bushing/bearing race.The next stumbling block is removing the worn out bushings & spacers in the stick.
No amount of penetrating oil, heat, or cold combined with a 10 ton hydraulic gear/bearing puller/pusher will get them to move. (at all)
Next step will be to try and split the bushings with a tungsten carbide grit hacksaw blade, then use the puller/pusher.
They are steel, as hard as a file, and have probably been in there since the late '70s.
If that doesn't work (or takes too long), I will have to split them by grinding a groove with a dremel style tool with small grinding stones.
I would love to saw them lengthwise with dremel cutoff discs, but I can't find a dremel or die grinder with a suitable 90 degree head that will fit inside a 30mm (1.181) diameter bore.
Maybe I should make something.....
They do make it look so easy.I have used that method years ago on a large tapered roller bearing race in a blind hole in a large electric motor end bell, and it worked perfectly.
But that race was about 4" in diameter, 1/4" to 3/8" thick, & about 5/8" wide.
I frankly do not trust my welding skills enough to try it in such a small diameter hole, on a bushing only .090-.120 (or less) thick. (some of the really worn ones were nearer .060 thick)
I am worried I will get too much penetration, and weld the bushing or spacer in place, and I will be worse off than I am now.
On one hand, it was great working for 30+ years with NASA certified welders on staff, but it really stunted my own meager skills. (no need for me to get better with those guys around )
I may try it, if I get brave, with the Miller Mig 130 turned way down.
Here is a toob video of this method:
Yeah, I was thinking if I tried it, maybe just a single tack, stop, another tack, repeat, etc..They do make it look so easy.
It was/is hard to judge the size/materials just from the pics of your parts. But I was thinking along the same lines as you....using .023 wire at a low setting to start. But first, dial in the settings right on a practice scrap piece of material before attacking the actual stuck bushing.
Knowing it doesn't have to be a continuous beautiful bead also helps. Maybe only a couple of good "tacks" will be enough to shrink/shock the stubborn bond loose enough to drive the bushing out?
Just in case....leave an open area for the tried and true saw cut for the last resort.
As I said above, maybe just a single tack, stop, another tack, repeat, etc. in parallel straight lines?Removing a bearing race or a valve seat that is narrow is one thing, but a long bushing is another animal. Not bad if it is large enough in diameter to comfortably weld, but the small diameters you’re dealing with could be a challenge. Maybe stick welding in a straight line might work? Working half way from each side?