Hanix Mini Giant excavator?

[Lil Foot]

If you look back at post #311, you can clearly see the soft outboard end, and the hard rest of the shaft.
That is just as it was turned; same tool & cut, no polishing or alteration.

 

[torch]

Yeah, I get it now.

 

[RCW]

Bill - have nothing to help you, but want you to know I’m learning a lot here.

The dialogue between you and the guys more skilled than me is much appreciated.

Thanks all for sharing.

 

[Lil Foot]

Thanks, glad to help, but I think I'm getting more help & knowledge than anyone, and I appreciate all the input.

 

[Lil Foot]

Found this vid of a Hanix N150-2, using a "root mouse".
That is an implement I've never seen.

 

[Lil Foot]

Got my cylinder back from rebuild at L&D Hydraulics. They gave me a substantial discount for cash, so I went for the rebuild. (still more than I wanted to pay, but it save me a lot of labor)
I have to say I'm impressed.
They replaced the ram, (weld looks fantastic) all the seals and packings, power honed the bore, polished the piston, & gland, cleared the grease passages, installed new zerks, pressure tested it, and repainted it. They left the wiper seals un-installed as I requested. I will install them after I decide if the bushings are good enough to re-use.
They saved the old bent 30mm ram as per my request, so I can use it to make 2-3 replacement pins.
It is bent about .028 over the whole length, so more than adequate for pins.
They also included a sheet of documentation listing the specs for the metric threads on the hose fittings, as I had mentioned I had not been able to identify them.

 

[Oo-v-oO]

Found this thread Hanix N150-2, using a "root mouse".
That is an implement I've never seen.

Looks a lot like a Stumping Bucket, minus the root ripping tines.

 

[Lil Foot]

Looks a lot like a Stumping Bucket, minus the root ripping tines.

You're right, it does!

 

[Lil Foot]

Most of the 8mm (.315) bolts that anchor the pins are worn and the cross holes are wallowed out, so I am going to drill/ream the holes to 3/8 (.375) and use 3/8 bolts.
Pretty easy proposition in most cases, but the cross hole in the "elbow" of the boom doesn't have the clearance to get a normal drill or reamer in position. And yes, I tried a RT angle drill, and that was even worse.
Obviously, the hole was drilled before the hub was welded to the boom.
This hole was wallowed out from about .340 to about .360, so I got out an adjustable .375 reamer, made a couple different size nylon bushings, and made up a special .165 square wrench to turn it.
Using the smaller bushing to keep things aligned, I reamed one side out (in stages) to .375.
Then I reversed the reamer, used the larger bushing, and reamed the other side to .375.
Worked great, even if it was a bit tedious.

 

[fried1765]

Most of the 8mm (.315) bolts that anchor the pins are worn and the cross holes are wallowed out, so I am going to drill/ream the holes to 3/8 (.375) and use 3/8 bolts.
Pretty easy proposition in most cases, but the cross hole in the "elbow" of the boom doesn't have the clearance to get a normal drill or reamer in position. And yes, I tried a RT angle drill, and that was even worse.
Obviously, the hole was drilled before the hub was welded to the boom.
This hole was wallowed out from about .340 to about .360, so I got out an adjustable .375 reamer, made a couple different size nylon bushings, and made up a special .165 square wrench to turn it.
Using the smaller bushing to keep things aligned, I reamed one side out (in stages) to .375.
Then I reversed the reamer, used the larger bushing, and reamed the other side to .375.
Worked great, even if it was a bit tedious.
View attachment 85581 View attachment 85582 View attachment 85583 View attachment 85584 View attachment 85585

Excellent!
I did not even know that such a tool was available.

 

[torch]

Ingenious.

 

[woodman55]

Most of the 8mm (.315) bolts that anchor the pins are worn and the cross holes are wallowed out, so I am going to drill/ream the holes to 3/8 (.375) and use 3/8 bolts.
Pretty easy proposition in most cases, but the cross hole in the "elbow" of the boom doesn't have the clearance to get a normal drill or reamer in position. And yes, I tried a RT angle drill, and that was even worse.
Obviously, the hole was drilled before the hub was welded to the boom.
This hole was wallowed out from about .340 to about .360, so I got out an adjustable .375 reamer, made a couple different size nylon bushings, and made up a special .165 square wrench to turn it.
Using the smaller bushing to keep things aligned, I reamed one side out (in stages) to .375.
Then I reversed the reamer, used the larger bushing, and reamed the other side to .375.
Worked great, even if it was a bit tedious.
View attachment 85581 View attachment 85582 View attachment 85583 View attachment 85584 View attachment 85585

How did you make the square hole in the 1/2 inch wrench ?

 

[Lil Foot]

How did you make the square hole in the 1/2 inch wrench ?

Back in olden times when I had access to the plant machine shop, I would have EDM'ed the square hole. (Electrical Discharge Machining)
This was pretty old school. I drilled the hole with a .164 carbide drill, then filed it square with a series of jeweler's files.
I had already cut the wrench down sometime ago for some another job.

 

[Lil Foot]

Excellent!
I did not even know that such a tool was available.

Lots of different styles and manufacturers, but they are not as common as they once were in these days of CNC machining. I have maybe another 8 or 10 besides these.

Here is another example of "line reaming".

 

[fried1765]

Lots of different styles and manufacturers, but they are not as common as they once were in these days of CNC machining. I have maybe another 8 or 10 besides these.
View attachment 85592

Here is anpther example of "line reaming".

View attachment 85593

Thank you for the photos!

 

[torch]

the filed it square with a series of jeweler's files.

What, no rotary broach??? <lol>

.164" seems an odd value. I would have expected 5/32" or 3/16" or maybe even 4mm for a wrench size.

 

[Lil Foot]

What, no rotary broach??? <lol>

.164" seems an odd value. I would have expected 5/32" or 3/16" or maybe even 4mm for a wrench size.

You're right, I agree it is an odd size.
If it had been something more standard, I might have been able to turn it with a ratchet & square socket.
That would have been easier & faster.

 

[torch]

Now you got my curiosity up, so I went and checked my adjustable reamers. The 3/8"- is 0.147" and the 3/8"+ is 0.162". I guess I just always used a tap wrench and never thought about it before. Would there have been enough room for a ratcheting tap wrench?

 

[Lil Foot]

Would there have been enough room for a ratcheting tap wrench?

No, not even close. I have a couple of small tap chucks that I use as reducers for my big tapping stand, (see pic) that I had hoped I could use, and then drive one of them with a square socket, but not enough room for that either.

 

[Vigo]

VERY cool that you got the hydraulic shop to follow such specific instructions (keep old ram, write down thread sizes, leave wiper seals out) and not have them miss any of them.

Very cool that you have some 'free' pin stock. Free, yeah let's choose to think of it in those terms..

The 'root mouse' is odd.. It's a ripper but I have never seen one shaped like that. With the horizontal blade it reminds me of a 'root grubber' tractor attachment. But with the vertical pylon it also reminds me of a 4way splitting wedge on a log splitter.

Which leads me to the rabbit hole of: Can i buy any cheap appropriately sized log splitter wedge and make an attachment out of it?