Fueling my L3800 sucks !

[ShaunRH]

Well, it depends on how the pressure is used. If you have a close fitting hose going through the cap down to the bottom of the tank, air pressure would be used to 'drive' the fuel up into the hose and out. If done correctly, it would not be a bomb, it would only take a few psi to fuel a vehicle this way. Plastic tanks could only take a few psi anyway.

Now, a drawback to this method is it is far harder to stop the flow exactly. That makes the method a bit of a safety hazard because overfills would be common.

Again, very old school tractor method is to create a fueling cradle that lifts a drum or tank up higher than the highest fueling port on your farm vehicles and a simple high quality ball valve set to control flow and vent and you have a gravity fed system. You take the tank down with your loader or have it filled by a farm service (large tanks). With proper precautions and fuel spill protection, this is a very simple and effective system. (Not to mention inexpensive when home built)

http://www.luckeyoilequipment.com/wp-content/gallery/agricultural-residential/elevfarmstorage.jpg

 

[ipz2222]

tire valve as a VENT system. The original ones break off. The new ones are inside the outflow tube and flow very ssllooww.

 

[CaveCreekRay]

These work pretty well if you really hate your CARB contraption...

http://www.ruralking.com/ez-pour-hi-flo-replacement-spout-kit-30051.html

 

[IDKUBOTA]

Little late on the discussion, but for those following the initial question, I have the no spill cans and I don't like them. I have been using Scribner cans- 5 gallons-purchased white cans so I could see the red dye in them so no-one puts diesel in the dirt bikes. I use them for fueling our dirt bikes/atv/wood splitter and now the L3800. Cost is about $40 PER CAN. I bought mine from motosport.com. Anyway, back to your prior programming.

IDK

 

[AZ.]

Little late on the discussion, but for those following the initial question, I have the no spill cans and I don't like them. I have been using Scribner cans- 5 gallons-purchased white cans so I could see the red dye in them so no-one puts diesel in the dirt bikes. I use them for fueling our dirt bikes/atv/wood splitter and now the L3800. Cost is about $40 PER CAN. I bought mine from motosport.com. Anyway, back to your prior programming.

IDK

Could you send a link?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Anyone that been around the Dunes, Sand rails, ATV's, and race cars has seen these.
Scribner cans

Yes they come in yellow too:

And you can get this for it as the cap has a 3/4" adapter built into it.

Or this with a valve:

http://www.amazon.com/Scribner-Plastics-Spacesaver-Utility-Jugs/dp/B001HAQ9U2

If your in the Phoenix area, just go to any of the thousands of motor sport shops they all carry them.

 

[Lil Foot]

I have two of those & love 'em, but only for fueling the toy hauler tank, truck, & Rhino.
For the B7100 I got two of these with the tractor, and they suck. (better since I added a 1/2" vent) One is as pictured below, the other is the same can, but with a horrible spout that requires you to push & hold the lever with your 3rd hand while your other two hold the can up. P.O.S.
A NoSpill can is in my future.

 

[ShaunRH]

I've used those cans a lot Lil Foot, they don't need a 3rd hand if you just keep the nozzle pressed down to keep the valve open. They do take some getting used to, that is if it's the same mechanism I have on a similar looking can that I use to fill my D-17 with. (They are useless if that little plastic tab breaks on them... you can't keep it pressed down!)

I've decided I'm just going to drive my L3200 down to the gas station about 2 miles away. Give me a chance to grab some snacks too! LOL!

 

[skeets]

When the nephew used to race dirt track we found7 or 8 Scribner cans coming home after the races,, and YES we stopped and picked them up. One looked as if there had never been anything in it, and a couple we left on the road dead

 

[Lil Foot]

I've used those cans a lot Lil Foot, they don't need a 3rd hand if you just keep the nozzle pressed down to keep the valve open.

The can I'm referring to that needs a third had is the one pictured below- nothing comes out unless the lever is held down- the genius who designed it should have to come to my place whenever I need & use it to fuel my toys while I get to ridicule him for the potato-headed moron he is…..

 

[Bluegill]

The can I'm referring to that needs a third had is the one pictured below- nothing comes out unless the lever is held down- the genius who designed it should have to come to my place whenever I need & use it to fuel my toys while I get to ridicule him for the potato-headed moron he is…..

Yeah, that can is junk!!!

 

[ShaunRH]

I don't have issues with those cans in 2 gal or less. Anything larger would need 3 hands! Well, I lied, I do have 1 issue with them, if you let up just a smidge in pressure on the lever it resets and needs to have that little 'fill' lever pushed again to let it start flowing. It's overly complicated, but that style is about all you see any more in the ready access areas for not much money. Sad.

 

[skeets]

I got one these from HF years ago stuck it in a blue plastic drum found a piece of tygon tubeing and bent a piece of conduit for the end, Hang it in there and crank away, just a though

 

[Russell King]

Well, I lied, I do have 1 issue with them, if you let up just a smidge in pressure on the lever it resets and needs to have that little 'fill' lever pushed again to let it start flowing.

Just take a pair of pliers and rip that little knob/lever on the side out. Then you can push the large lever down and not have to worry about operating that safety lock.

 

[85Hokie]

Just take a pair of pliers and rip that little knob/lever on the side out. Then you can push the large lever down and not have to worry about operating that safety lock.

after breaking that tab off, drill a 1/4 hole where the vent SHOULD be, shove piece of clear tubing (8 ") in the hole 50%.....stick a nail in it.....still can vent air, but once the nail is removed, you can pour gas like the old days.....

safety cans.......the 99% of cans that 1% of the people screwed up

----thats why preparation H has a warning label, TAKE EXTERNALLY onllllllllllllllyyy......... cause someone did EAT IT!!!!!!!!

 

[BotaDriver]

after breaking that tab off, drill a 1/4 hole where the vent SHOULD be, shove piece of clear tubing (8 ") in the hole 50%.....stick a nail in it.....still can vent air, but once the nail is removed, you can pour gas like the old days.....

safety cans.......the 99% of cans that 1% of the people screwed up

----thats why preparation H has a warning label, TAKE EXTERNALLY onllllllllllllllyyy......... cause someone did EAT IT!!!!!!!!

You can also drill out a hole large enough to put a tire schrader valve in the tank and remove the guts of the valve. Then you have a cap that can screw onto it for storage.

 

[tcrote5516]

The new EPA B.S. filler necks can be "modified" very easily....but I wouldn't know anything about that....cough cough youtube how-to videos...cough.

For proper venting you can also drill a 3/8" hole, pop in a tire stem valve (remove the guts of the valve first) and just use the cap as the vent open/close.

 

[CaveCreekRay]

Great idea! (cough-cough)

 

[speak8]

I had a terrible experience with "no spill" yellow 5 gallon diesel can. Fueling my L3800 until the spout slipped off gas tank...spring and the shut off spout came off and into my tank. Needless to say I was not very happy. Had remove the tractor hood as well as tank bolts (4 of them), and a few more other "under the hood" bolts. Was able to pull the tank out approx. 2 inches and remove screws from what I believe was the diesel gauge monitor cap cover (????) Pumped out the full tank of diesel and used magnetic pick up extension for spring and pickup extension with prongs to pick up plastic spout. All in all took about 2 hours to get this done....Was more "P" offed with the wasted time I spend having to remove both items. I would think long and hard about buying this diesel can ever again. When it works it works great...when it comes apart like with me...it really can ruin your day...Pics attached... View attachment 12492

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PMW3, I had the same problem as you- fuel can spout detached into the fuel tank. And it was with a fuel container from the same company. It really ruined my day. A search on another site (TBN) reveals a number of other people who have had the same problem. Most have just left the offending part in the fuel tank, but some have removed it as you did. I don't know if all the others were using the same brand of can as you and I. Clearly this is a design issue. I am going to write the company to notify them, although I suspect they already know. I'll keep you updated on the response.

 

[coachgeo]

Goofy ideas:

. look into building a "site tube" in a location you can see it as you blindly fill from fuel can into fuel tank.

"Site tube"

thread and or epoxy into bottom of tank (or bottom side) a Brass NPT to 3/8? Hose Barb Fitting. Same just below top of tank. Connect between the two a clear hose that can take diesel. Have this hose located where you can easily see it with little fuss. As the tank fills you'll see fuel rise in the tube. Mark on the tube the line where the fuel stops when tank is full. Now you have advanced warning when to stop. You could do this too I guess with a few of those glass inline fuel filters with replacable inner filter. Say two or three. lined up between the two barbs and standard fuel line. One sitting to show 1/3 of a fuel tank, Another to show 2/3 and last for Full.

. Maybe adapt a fuel gauge unit into your tank and mount the guage on the side of the tractor where you would see it while filling?