Wood glue on steel .... there's a real chance that someone might be unglued! Oh the irony!Ok we've gone into a whole new level of insanity, wood glue on wheel studs!
Fixing hole in side of block
- Thread starter joesmith123
- Start date
And it's the original that's not waterproofOk we've gone into a whole new level of insanity, wood glue on wheel studs!
. Probably out of date also. I think it's time to dig a hole and bury it.
Wolfman… please let this thread go on until it reaches it’s natural death!
It just keeps getting more entertaining…
It just keeps getting more entertaining…
Lil Foot
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
1979 B7100DT Gear, Nissan Hanix N150-2 Excavator
And you were wanting him to stop a few pages ago…Ok we've gone into a whole new level of insanity, wood glue on wheel studs!
I come into this thread once a day just for the entertainment value. I am also picking up tips on welding, glue, grading, painting, tires and so much more.
The wood glue may even work given it has enough time to harden surrounded by vapour diffusion proof metal, a few months maybe, maybe a few years.
But one thing you never do and that is tightening wheel nuts / wheel bolts with an impact wrench. Totally undefined torque. It is acceptable to get the bolt in on a very low pressure setting followed by a torque spanner. But never acceptable for tightening on it's own.
Start with your biggest problem
This is your wood cutting blade for your miter saw
Take this with you and get you a steel cutting blade
Goal: use miter saw to cut your steel way better than using a cut off disc on grinder
Your biggest problem is the big broken weld that hold your loader together
Plan: use miter saw to cut the 2 inch square tubing at 45 angles and weld on with big big flame
In the diagram you see 2 broken entity, and your 2 inch square tubing cut at 45 degree holding them together
Put your $65 metal cutting blade on your miter saw in the parking lot in case it didn't fit
clear you out your space, hang you ton of wrenches/tools all over the place
clean your area with water on a brush, hit with compress air, reveal it clearly
first, youll clamp it and melt you it back together very well (2-3 hour alone this task)
then, cut your 2 inch square tubing and place it simlar to this way (diagram show this)
put you multiple cuts of square tubing
focus mostly on the ends of the square tubing, to save some gas
then you have super thick angle iron (not in the photo), youll cut that with your metal cutting miter saw,
and put you serious amount of heat connecting two entity
you explored drilling it and putting big bolts, but you do not have a drill bit long enough to drill through the thick steel, but
still look for opportunity to use massive bolts to save some gas for all the welding
grind down the entire area of weld
sledgehammer, blocks, big clamp, smack around both entity until they couple properly,
big clamp pushing them together tight, block underneath pushing the beam upward into the other entity
now: use torch to bind them going downward with gravity, sinking the sides into the tear
pump you ton of gas into massive structural fel point
have you hammer close by, smack the high point after you turn it to molten pushing it toward your goal
this trick saved you ton of gas, hit the rest of the tear up top
This is your wood cutting blade for your miter saw
Take this with you and get you a steel cutting blade
Goal: use miter saw to cut your steel way better than using a cut off disc on grinder
Your biggest problem is the big broken weld that hold your loader together
Plan: use miter saw to cut the 2 inch square tubing at 45 angles and weld on with big big flame
In the diagram you see 2 broken entity, and your 2 inch square tubing cut at 45 degree holding them together
Put your $65 metal cutting blade on your miter saw in the parking lot in case it didn't fit
clear you out your space, hang you ton of wrenches/tools all over the place
clean your area with water on a brush, hit with compress air, reveal it clearly
first, youll clamp it and melt you it back together very well (2-3 hour alone this task)
then, cut your 2 inch square tubing and place it simlar to this way (diagram show this)
put you multiple cuts of square tubing
focus mostly on the ends of the square tubing, to save some gas
then you have super thick angle iron (not in the photo), youll cut that with your metal cutting miter saw,
and put you serious amount of heat connecting two entity
you explored drilling it and putting big bolts, but you do not have a drill bit long enough to drill through the thick steel, but
still look for opportunity to use massive bolts to save some gas for all the welding
grind down the entire area of weld
sledgehammer, blocks, big clamp, smack around both entity until they couple properly,
big clamp pushing them together tight, block underneath pushing the beam upward into the other entity
now: use torch to bind them going downward with gravity, sinking the sides into the tear
pump you ton of gas into massive structural fel point
have you hammer close by, smack the high point after you turn it to molten pushing it toward your goal
this trick saved you ton of gas, hit the rest of the tear up top
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Usually steel cutting blades are rated for lower rpm then a standard miter saw turns requiring a low speed saw like evolution makes. I have 3 cold cut saws and they cut good but are 1/2 the rpm of a wood cutting saw. Be careful of any recycled steel that has a hardness because it will destroy the blade instantly. I destroyed a blade trying to cut angle iron from a bedframe that was hardened.
For the purpose of this thread reality makes little difference… Still love the thread though!
metal work
top part of big broken weld turn to molten
pump you ton of gas
measure your cut
cut it straight
twist miter 45 degree, cut your angles
square tubing fling across your shop
mock it up, grind down the ridge on the big steel support so your metal lay flat
tie your metal with household 14 gauge wire, then
weld the end well, then make another 6 inch support, weld that on bottom
weld both side square tube
left side weld nice, right side musta shift away from rail making worse weld
top part of big broken weld turn to molten
pump you ton of gas
measure your cut
cut it straight
twist miter 45 degree, cut your angles
square tubing fling across your shop
mock it up, grind down the ridge on the big steel support so your metal lay flat
tie your metal with household 14 gauge wire, then
weld the end well, then make another 6 inch support, weld that on bottom
weld both side square tube
left side weld nice, right side musta shift away from rail making worse weld
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mistake, reflection, then plan
mistake: don't point the big flame on the square tubing, it will rip right through it
if the square tubing sitting flush on thick steel, and you point flame on thick steel, it will melt square tubing into the thick steel properly (left weld in previous picture)
you tried using the bronze as filler rod on the square tubing, it melt into liquid so easy, it hard to get it to flow into the thick steel
adjustment: use actual nail as filler rod, it doesn't turn to liquid as quick and can get successfully flow to your thick steel and encompass your square tubing
this trick with square tubing being cut at 45 degree, if it hold, will be very useful trick in your arsenal
plan: keep chipping away at the task in order of severity
start by using filler on your first square tubing and melt it with big support into your steel structures
then get your 2nd square tubing melted into the bottom for even more support
then: cut you a thick angle iron, about 2-3 inches, and put that 90 (where you showed that dinky bracket) that would hold together you 2 broken entity very strongly
that should be enough welding for that area hopefully
don't move too quickly, be comprehensive in your securing of your big broken steel intersection
then: build you a perfect square tubing brace that will connect the 2 rails in front of engine
try to figure out a way to make a perfect sized piece of steel, that would fit there and put you in massive bolts
if you cannot put bolts, then weld it and just forget about using your hood
after that:
it keep busting the bolts that hold your loader to the tractor at the front axle, there are 4 bolts there out of 6, fasten them tight, then melt bronze on top of bolt onto the plate its securing, that way bolt cannot loosen
then if you get that far:
tackle on the busted fel valve that keep breaking, escalate your effort, get away from welding it, try putting holes in and using bolts to secure it in multiple place
that should be enough planning for now
front support that keep busting bolt
you can see 2 bolt bust out, and others are loose
they did have thread lock on them
hole form there because: no filler, pointing flame at square tubing
put you another square tubing right there
thick steel 90, could fully secure your problem
imagine that you fuse a huge piece of that that thick steel,
both end of that beam fused to your 2 broken entity
do those 2 welds, then move on to that front section of the lower support that bust bolts, and
the upper support where you'll connect the two beams
clamp square tubing tight to the steel, and you got your thick random steel to use as filler
your random filler work great
little trick at the end: lower your oxygen, give it big acetylene flame slow leveling out your molten
@north wolf
yes i listen, so far spent in gas is $400 since the beginning with the iron skillet
if this dont work, then go back through your thread and figure out the electric/generator welding
weld 2nd square tube, dont make it perfect, save gas
next: cut you that big 90, flatten the surface it sit on,
if it need to bend to the surface, have a big sledehammer close by,
shape it with hammer as you heat it with aceytelene
take your measurement
setup beam to cut
mistake: don't point the big flame on the square tubing, it will rip right through it
if the square tubing sitting flush on thick steel, and you point flame on thick steel, it will melt square tubing into the thick steel properly (left weld in previous picture)
you tried using the bronze as filler rod on the square tubing, it melt into liquid so easy, it hard to get it to flow into the thick steel
adjustment: use actual nail as filler rod, it doesn't turn to liquid as quick and can get successfully flow to your thick steel and encompass your square tubing
this trick with square tubing being cut at 45 degree, if it hold, will be very useful trick in your arsenal
plan: keep chipping away at the task in order of severity
start by using filler on your first square tubing and melt it with big support into your steel structures
then get your 2nd square tubing melted into the bottom for even more support
then: cut you a thick angle iron, about 2-3 inches, and put that 90 (where you showed that dinky bracket) that would hold together you 2 broken entity very strongly
that should be enough welding for that area hopefully
don't move too quickly, be comprehensive in your securing of your big broken steel intersection
then: build you a perfect square tubing brace that will connect the 2 rails in front of engine
try to figure out a way to make a perfect sized piece of steel, that would fit there and put you in massive bolts
if you cannot put bolts, then weld it and just forget about using your hood
after that:
it keep busting the bolts that hold your loader to the tractor at the front axle, there are 4 bolts there out of 6, fasten them tight, then melt bronze on top of bolt onto the plate its securing, that way bolt cannot loosen
then if you get that far:
tackle on the busted fel valve that keep breaking, escalate your effort, get away from welding it, try putting holes in and using bolts to secure it in multiple place
that should be enough planning for now
front support that keep busting bolt
you can see 2 bolt bust out, and others are loose
they did have thread lock on them
hole form there because: no filler, pointing flame at square tubing
put you another square tubing right there
thick steel 90, could fully secure your problem
imagine that you fuse a huge piece of that that thick steel,
both end of that beam fused to your 2 broken entity
do those 2 welds, then move on to that front section of the lower support that bust bolts, and
the upper support where you'll connect the two beams
clamp square tubing tight to the steel, and you got your thick random steel to use as filler
your random filler work great
little trick at the end: lower your oxygen, give it big acetylene flame slow leveling out your molten
@north wolf
yes i listen, so far spent in gas is $400 since the beginning with the iron skillet
if this dont work, then go back through your thread and figure out the electric/generator welding
weld 2nd square tube, dont make it perfect, save gas
next: cut you that big 90, flatten the surface it sit on,
if it need to bend to the surface, have a big sledehammer close by,
shape it with hammer as you heat it with aceytelene
take your measurement
setup beam to cut
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there are better ways to keep a nut from backing out. Lock washer, nyloc nut, double nut, peening the threads slightly, etc. I doubt "breaking of the bolts" is caused by loosening, especially if you are only using 4 of the 6 that are supposed to be used. That is 66% of what was engineered. Also using the highest grade bolt available will minimize breakage. I know. I know, talking to a brick wall.
Heating that bolt to braze it is ruining it's strength and it's torque from when originally tightened too.
Goes from a tight maybe grade 5 to a loose less then grade 2 ?
At least in my mind not something I would do when there is so many better ways to lock a nut as you say.
North Idaho Wolfman
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Staff member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
Well I'll say this, that tractor is going to be worth a lot for scrap, considering all the extra steel that keeps getting added.
I bet with the amount of gas you've burned up you could have bought a sweet generator and mig welder!
I bet with the amount of gas you've burned up you could have bought a sweet generator and mig welder!
reintgrate your machine
cut you a thick beam, sharp metal fly and hit your face
go you insane with grinder on the high point, leveling out your beam
put beam in place, try to wobble it, the wobbling will tell you the high point
hit it with insane grinder until no wobble
your beam sit flat, no wobble
put beam in place, use filler on bottom section
get a random metal that fit perfectly on top part
melt it all into one entity
now: move on to front support, figure out the plan for the busted bolt, and the beam that go across and connect the two rail
front support problem:
all the bolts were loose, 2 of them stripped, one you cannot get into the hole
dab it in diesel, hit with front facing poly wheel, hit with compress air, brush with solvent, hit with air
melt your bolt into its plate so it cannot come out
front 2 beam support plan:
measurement about 27.5 inch
maybe: cut you a 2 inch square tube, put holes into square tube, put bolt that go completely through the rail and your square tube
take you awhile to melt your bolts onto the thick steel it hold
now: get a perfect measurement of the square tubing to connect the two rail
cut it a bit big, then you can grind down and make it fit super snug
then, drill you out big holes, put you big bolts hold your machine tight
cut you a thick beam, sharp metal fly and hit your face
go you insane with grinder on the high point, leveling out your beam
put beam in place, try to wobble it, the wobbling will tell you the high point
hit it with insane grinder until no wobble
your beam sit flat, no wobble
put beam in place, use filler on bottom section
get a random metal that fit perfectly on top part
melt it all into one entity
now: move on to front support, figure out the plan for the busted bolt, and the beam that go across and connect the two rail
front support problem:
all the bolts were loose, 2 of them stripped, one you cannot get into the hole
dab it in diesel, hit with front facing poly wheel, hit with compress air, brush with solvent, hit with air
melt your bolt into its plate so it cannot come out
front 2 beam support plan:
measurement about 27.5 inch
maybe: cut you a 2 inch square tube, put holes into square tube, put bolt that go completely through the rail and your square tube
take you awhile to melt your bolts onto the thick steel it hold
now: get a perfect measurement of the square tubing to connect the two rail
cut it a bit big, then you can grind down and make it fit super snug
then, drill you out big holes, put you big bolts hold your machine tight
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It applies to all of us going thru life, you don't know what you don't know!
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Wolfman…please make that above quote the title to this thread. It is accurate, fair, poignant and, welp, informative.
Beam across your two rail
slice you steel like butter a bit bigger than the measure
get it into position
grind down your end tapering it until you can smack with sledge and get it into place
your square tube fit snug
now: get you a good drill bit, drill you out holes, put you bolt tight, add spacer if needed
drill out your hole
get your big bolt in, glue on the thread
bolt glued tight
drill out 2nd hole, took awhile
clamp square tubing tight, drill more
put another nut on the inside, you couldnt find a good way to put solid spacer
slice you steel like butter a bit bigger than the measure
get it into position
grind down your end tapering it until you can smack with sledge and get it into place
your square tube fit snug
now: get you a good drill bit, drill you out holes, put you bolt tight, add spacer if needed
drill out your hole
get your big bolt in, glue on the thread
bolt glued tight
drill out 2nd hole, took awhile
clamp square tubing tight, drill more
put another nut on the inside, you couldnt find a good way to put solid spacer
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