I have, and it takes a big generator. I bought a 14kw 30 hp generator to run tools and welders in my old barn without electricity. You need a 50 amp 220 plug for my stick. My generator puts out 55 amps but that's only required on the high setting of the welder. I think Joe just needs to find a mobile welder for the next job. It's too late for this machine because it's beyond proper repair at this point but future machines with problems should be noted and addressed at teardown. Then properly repaired before final assembly. This thread has been how my 10 year old grandson would have attacked this build because he wouldn't listen to anyone at that age. But at least now he has learned that you can find out how to fix anything on the internet

and still doesn't listen.
It's fine, you should see his solar wiring, and the stuff he tries to run off it.
Actually, you might want to check out how he's able to write decent English and this thread is pretty much a con-job of OTT members, it's not like he hasn't pulled the schame schtuff (with better English) other places:
Bobcat T190 keeps shutting down due to low oil pressure Gauge also reading low oil pressure Could it be a sensor or is the oil pump bad? Gauges picture: top left is oil pressure, bottom left is hydraulic system temperature, correct? warning picture: this warning comes on, then machine shuts...
www.skidsteerforum.com
I just ran it for about 30-45 minutes
When it started cold, there was some oil pressure reading on the gauge (3 or 4 bars)
Then, after warming up, oil thinned, and gauge went down and the machine shut down
My theory: there are leaks all over the engine, causing the oil to lose pressure
What is your theory?
At this moment, the 3 big things I am trying to figure out (feel free to critique/give advice):
1. I want to build a metal frame around the exposed wheel well. My plan: Build a metal structure out of square tubing (1/2'' size), then use either metal or aluminum sheeting and fasten it to the metal structure, then spray rustproofing above the tires onto the new metal to seal it up from the weather
2. Locate the proper aluminum that will be used to cover the burned aluminum to seal the body of the airstream
The right way to go with this one is maybe to go with whole other airstream that is donor unit, like someone mentioned
The cost of aluminum nowadays, it might be cheaper just to get a whole other airstream
3. Windows: The cost of one airstream window is more than I paid for the entire airstream
My plan: Get similar sized windows from facebook marketplace/craigslist and fit them into the holes
Yes I am listening, no more hard hammering on small areas, it is pretty much good enough at this point, If I do more hammering, it'll be on 2x4 or 2x6 to spread the pressure
Decided to pressurize gasoline instead of lacquer thinner to save costs
Hit it with the gasoline, wipe it clean
Hit it with the stripping paste, let it sit for 3 minutes max
While it is still wet, hit it with the 3M 7 inch stripping disc
Warning about these trucks....a lot of stuff is not simple as first seen... best way is to watch vids....and plan way ahead... took me a year to get...
www.tacomaworld.com
Not good idea to hammer on aluminum
One slight tap, and the aluminum falls apart, stopped immediately
Tried to find a nut that would fit that crevice, no luck
I do not want to damage that part, its mostly good except for one little seal
Better to maybe order a kit that has a bunch of those "bearing nut wrenches"
Or maybe order the exact one
Or another idea: that that part with me to the parts store until I find a nut/part that will fit in there
From that image, I am hammering the gear side, not the spline side
Maybe once I start hammering on it, I'll figure it out
Had a tough time finding anything other than HEx ....
until I relized that most water fittings are octo....
So a hose repair from your local ace might be solution...