Fixing hole in side of block

[joesmith123]

hillbilly drift

the thread that took you back in time, brought back L295 diesel engine purring

present to you, the hillbilly drift

your robot jealous of supra

February 11, 2025

youtube.com

this is how it work:

you scrape at the high point going backward, then soon as you start going down,

cut your wheel one way all the way, swing your entire robot 180,

the blade slicing at your high point, then keep churning earth, no stopping of your momentum

woah, elite level hillbilly disclosure, witness you it

you can see in the clip: she'll lug down but you already turned your wheel straight and she'll power through

wow, lik japan ninja, she slice your high point without even making you switch a gear

and do 180 like nothing happen, keep churning your realm, your lost in your boxcar song

behold your japan robot ninja, twirling on the high point, planing out your realm

61 page into your thread, japan ninja twirling and doing hillbilly drifting

bust your exhaust right off the manifold, unbelieveable

park your robot back in your shop, behold you the new realm reveal by your twirling ninja

 

[WI_Hedgehog]

The math doesn't add up.

With as many hours spent "leveling ground" as claimed the confined space should have started out as the side of a hill, but it started out relatively flat.

It was a couple hour job with a hand rake, there shouldn't be this many breakdown...unless...

 

[Lil Foot]

I would have graded the area to shed water, not retain it, but that's just me.
Looks like the only dry areas are the edges.....

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Joe.... Why don't you start reeling it in.
I think we've had enough of the acid trip rambings.

 

[joesmith123]

Broke the big support

busted big support, no acetylene available

fill up acetylene, weld massive 90 bracket

What your doing:

lug earth from the high point bringing it into the low point

doing 180s lugging earth from high to low, breaking down the high points,

using the mud as an indicator to tell if it need to go lower

if mud travel there, you know it is low enough to let the puddle escape

Why don't you start reeling it in.

yes, no more acid trip rambling, only use the thread to share/document the fact, no more personality

wheel broke in half from the stress of the 180 degree turn

busted exhaust held by copper ground wire

wheel about to snap off

machine down, need to fix:

major weld on broken fel support, weld on busted exhaust manifold, get a new wheel, seal up the other bucket cylinder, replace busted hydraulic hose

also look for big steel bracket, straight and 90 for when you need reintegrate broken support

 

[Moose7060]

It’s ALIVE!


Mostly


OP…this thread will go down in the history of this site. Not exactly sure what for…but HISTORY damnit!

My guess this thread ends on April 1st.

 

[Hugo Habicht]

My guess this thread ends on April 1st.

Just had to check if it started April 1st ...

 

[Chanceywd]

Maybe long past the time to do a little reading or videos on your welding process. I taught my self from a high school book a shop class teacher gave me in the 70's.
You need to understand surface prep, tip sizes, gas pressure settings, neutral flame, working the puddle, movement of the torch and using a readily available filler rod, not just a bolt you pick up. How you work all that is way different than just heating it until it is molten and dripping.
Most of your welding process could be greatly improved with one set of tank fillings.
It is like baking a cake, you don't substitute salt for sugar just because they look the same. Adding more liquid won't make a bigger cake. You follow the recipe and your method is the recipe for failure and doesn't need to be.

 

[L35]

Your rim looks like it’s had loose/missing lug nuts for a period of time, that may be what caused the cracks vs turning and churning.

 

[Lil Foot]

Just had to check if it started April 1st ...

April 1st, 1899 if I remember right.

 

[Lil Foot]

Maybe long past the time to do a little reading or videos on your welding process. I taught my self from a high school book a shop class teacher gave me in the 70's.
You need to understand surface prep, tip sizes, gas pressure settings, neutral flame, working the puddle, movement of the torch and using a readily available filler rod, not just a bolt you pick up. How you work all that is way different than just heating it until it is molten and dripping.
Most of your welding process could be greatly improved with one set of tank fillings.
It is like baking a cake, you don't substitute salt for sugar just because they look the same. Adding more liquid won't make a bigger cake. You follow the recipe and your method is the recipe for failure and doesn't need to be.

What oxy/acetylene welds should look like.

 

[Chanceywd]

What oxy/acetylene welds should look like.
View attachment 148363 View attachment 148364

Exactly my point, Bill!

From another Bill!

 

[McMXi]

What oxy/acetylene welds should look like.
View attachment 148363 View attachment 148364

Can't say that I've seen any weld spatter when using oxyacetylene to weld up steel.

This entire thread is f'ing bonkers!

 

[Hugo Habicht]

April 1st, 1899 if I remember right.

That explains it

Originally this thread was ok but now Joe messing up the tractor with his "welding" beyond a chance to repair it properly it is only sad I think.

What oxy/acetylene welds should look like.

Truly beautiful welds, absolutely perfect !

I will never be able to achieve anything like it, I have to revert to grinder and paint

 

[Lil Foot]

Over the years, I have made lots of OA welds that look like that, usually at the end of a long project.
However, I use OA so infrequently, that but the next time I need to do it again, I have lost my touch and weld like a beginner again.

Throughout my career, I never had to weld much, because we always had NASA certified welders on staff.
No sense in me doing it when we had that kind of talent around.

 

[Henro]

However, I use OA so infrequently, that but the next time I need to do it again, I have lost my touch and weld like a beginner again.

Amen to that. Believe it is the same for any type of welding. Not like riding a bicycle...seems to take more time to get back to wherever you were when you welded last...but still, you don't lose everything.

If one has some experience with OA welding, doubt in a single lifetime he could regress to where Joe is. Not to fault Joe, he is trying to do it without any guidance, at least guidance that he is willing to listen to.

Get a stick welder is advice that is give here now and then, but even with stick it takes time. Wirefeed may be most forgiving, but with that too, you can easily make joints that look good, but fail immediately.

My take on it anyway...

 

[joesmith123]

make progress on your repair

fill your welding tank

lift tractor to change the broken rim

got another wheel with tube and used tire

some of those lug studs fell and got lost, find similar bolt and put them in tight maybe with glue

broken massive support, plan: grind it all down, put you big clamp, then brainstorm your plan to weld something in there that would work

probably cut thick steel 90 laying around, maybe 2 of them, youll figure it out, no decision yet

get you couple 24 inch hydraulic hose from surplus, very good price

summary: put you on your non broken rim and find spare studs, replace the busted hydraulic line on bucket cylinder, decide the exact setup for the big weld on the broken fel main support, and make some progress on your bucket cylinder hydraulic leak

Clean the wheel studs with solvent, cover them in glue, put them in tight then put more glue on top of stud

Go through your other L295 parts and take bolts from it since you lost 3 studs when rim broke

Back of your rim cutting into your front axle

clean bolt with solvent, cover them in glue, hit them hard with air impact

took out the busted hydraulic line, put in new hydraulic line

at this point, you look at machine, and you notice more problems that will lead to bigger problem, list you all the problems that are concerning:

support that go down and connect two rails to tractor, busted out couple bolts and is loose, causing more stress on your entire loader connection to tractor

metal clamps that go over your hydraulic line that keep the lines connected to the big rail, busted off, you couldn't find bolts that fit

FEL loader valve busted off again when you last ran out of welding gas

leaky injectors at the head thread, oozing out diesel, causing it a bit harder to start since it need to prime diesel line, hydraulic leak at bottom of hydraulic pump,

when you couldn't find a bolt to secure down your hydraulic lines to the loader, you went on this multi hour cleaning binge, tossing tons of garbage, making piles of related tools/whatevers

you put nails all over the place and start hanging ton of tools closer to your machines

threw away tons of redundancies

while you were cleaning, you reflect and conclude:

no using machine until it is absolutely secure structurally, meaning

all of your heavy metal structures completely supported

your busted fel valve is solved, your plan with this problem:

because you cannot get a good angle for your flame in that tight spot, you will experiment with:

drill holes and put bolts that will fasten the broken connection that keep breaking

general problem: the machine is powerful and will keep busting off bolts even if they are fully fasten

you will be going through all bolts that keep loosening and glueing them tight, experimenting with solving this issue

like @Lil Foot suggest: put a beam across the two rails that connect them in hope of adding more structure to the loader

the big weld: you still have not come up with good idea to reintegrate the massive structure weld that broke

one idea: put a massive thick steel plate that encompass the tear, the plate would bind to one side, then you heat it up and hammer it to take on the shape of the bend, then bind it to the 2nd entity

Since the tractor welds seem to be breaking at the weld line maybe try using a ball peen hammer when still hot. It would compress the material for strength. Used to be known as blacksmithing.

this is the statement that lead you down this path

you'll be experimenting with, fusing one side very well, then heat up your metal, shape it with hammer while still hot, get it to take the shape that you want, then fuse it to the 2nd entity

summary: you started to make progress on your repair, realized there are too many problem, couldn't decide what to do, then went massive cleaning binge to clear your mind/work area

while cleaning, you consolidate the order of task, and decide:

the structural integrity of FEL connection to the tractor is priority #1, worry about everything else later

plan: do you ton of custom metal work to structurally hold together all the steel: the big two rail connection, the massive broken structural weld, the FEL valve that keep busting, and

that front plate that hold two rails that connect to front of tractor: it is very hard to get the bolts in and you mighta stripped the threads previously trying to get them in at slight angle

might experiment: tighten you the remaining bolts hard, then melt you bronze on top of bolt into the plate it hold,

that way, it cannot rattle itself loose

summary: you are so tired of your machine coming apart/breaking, that you are going on a massive and deliberate operation of holding it all together using big bolts, tons of drilling, welding, and other brainstorming tactics

no using machine until everything fully and completely secure

this challenge is proving that the thread is correct, that if you cannot solve this problem, you cannot use the machine

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Ok we've gone into a whole new level of insanity, wood glue on wheel studs!

 

[Chanceywd]

I believe this might fit the definition of insanity,

"Doing the same thing over and over and expecting different results"?

 

[Ktrim]

Ok we've gone into a whole new level of insanity, wood glue on wheel studs!

I was hoping that wasn't what I was reading on the bottle. But you just confirmed it. Wtf