Fixing hole in side of block

[number two]

Cleaning parts I think?

 

[Dustball]

Cleaning parts I think?

I think he's drinking it at this point.

 

[Ktrim]

I think he's drinking it at this point.

 

[Henro]

I think he's drinking it at this point.

No doubt in my mind at all. He must be drinking diesel to get the energy he has been showing us...Beer just wouldn't do it...

 

[joesmith123]

Got 30 gallon diesel , run tractor check for leak

went and got 30 gallon diesel, filled up diesel tank on tractor, get her running

got her started video is about 10 min after startup, clean all the oily areas with brush and solvent, hit with compress air

the level was a tiny bit below full, let her run for hours and hours, and see if it go down


tasks to do while waiting to see if it leak:

now would be perfect to paint but paint has not shipped, ordered one week ago

might nail in framing and put in metal to make more shade in shop,

also, i want to start the other d1301 engine build: i purchase ton of parts and feel bad they are not being consume,

at the minimum, entertain the idea, start to imagine it

Now I go put shade in shop, and let her idle, then decide next step

sit down next to purring diesel and narrate build for other d1301 engine:

start with front axle on block, then get the engine onto it, block under engine, build engine with access to every angle since it is not attach to tractor,

do everything, clean it perfectly, paint it once, then mate the tractor to it (like I did when fixing the rear main seal leak)

video after 1-2 hour idle: purring better, i test it out with less diesel, and she less likely to shut off than before, chooching along...

I dont see any leak underneath, but let it purr while you go build shade

another task I can do: build up that front air box/holder/battery and put good wire on good battery

been working on the shade task while she idle 4-5 hour

oil pressure not getting below 50-55 psi, leak coming out of exhaust 2, and leak near governor out of gearcase tiny

exhaust 1 and 3 bone dry, exhaust 2 pushing out some oil, what could be the cause?

@L35

yes, I see that, 1 and 3 are dry, 2 spitting out some oil

@D2Cat

only solar electricity available, not strong enough

couple time I choke her out with too little diesel, check oil level, exactly where it was when started

keep idling, keep working on the shade

 

[L35]

Little head gasket oil leak there, Or is it coming out of #2?

 

[D2Cat]

Joe, I noticed you have frequent need to glue some metal body parts together! Do you have electrical supply in your work area? If so, I'd suggest you get a wire welder. Wouldn't take much and you'd have, easy, clean welds.

 

[6869704x4]

That seems like a smooth running three banger.

 

[joesmith123]

Putting shade up, decide what to do

while she idle, I put 1 and maybe 2 strip of metal to make more shade

I try to show you where the oil level been sitting since she started idling, it is right below the "D"

not seeing any leak beside cylinder 2 and tiny gear case leak (jb weld did not fix it, it broke through)

It looks like paint is not showing up anytime soon and I have no funding to order another one

Now: let her idle a bit, keep putting up more shade, it is so easy to do and so glad i finally did it

but I am fixing to put the wheels on and ride around,

get the loader into the shop area, start to do the hydraulic line install

more detail plan: put on battery/air box/, install good strong battery, install good wires, rig up a switch for starter and glowplug, install front axle propeller, exhaust, front wheels, seat, steering wheel, keep making more shade, you wont regret it, then if I get to it,

go bring the loader to the work area, install the big bolt and bracket, finish up the hydraulic lines, last I remember they were almost figured out

it would have been nice to paint loader off the tractor, but we just roll with punches and be flexible

go get her started, keep making shade, and reflect on what was just said

idle for 1-2 hour, oil pressure staying 55-60 psi

yes, at around 1:50, she sink into that state of tranquility, the purring idle, that seem it is about to shut off,

but no, she stay on, purring, smoothly, then she choke out from too little diesel, but notice

that she can get lower rpm without shutting down, we are 20-25 hour idle break in time

about 75% done with the shade task, doesnt have to be perfect, get to machine assembly

that should be enough shade, got the main work area, this task been bugging me since page 1 of the thread

move all ladder, get rid of all block and anything off ground, clear area, then

rig up strong battery with switch for start and glow plug, wire the alternator, make sure it charge, be able to start and stop it reliably,

dont forget to tighten all bell housing bolt

then put front wheel on and it will be the first time machine off block in 4/5 month

then after that plan on bringing the loader, installing on tractor, figuring out hydraulic, etc

lower throttle until she choke out, check oil, oil level exactly same as before 3-4 hour idle

now that I study the picture then the video, oil level look like it drop tiny bit, keep idling it, and keep studying it

what could be the reason it is pushing out diesel or oil from cylinder 2?

@L35
valve guide seal: I think this is it, they were rubber seal that I did not change on the head

it does look like oil, diesel runs better

thank you

tighten all bell housing bolt, tighten diesel filter, study this image try to see why bracket not lining up properly

figured out bracket was upside down, diagram help

machine idle 5-6 hour today, close up of oil level, same level...

install air filter, exhaust, propeller, front axle, find strong battery, figure out alternator wiring

tighten bell housing bolt, install airbox, plumbing, hardware, install exhaust, try that battery see if she hold volt,

next: install front axle and propeller, put strong ground on battery, wire in alternator,

thought about starting wiring: put simple switch on starter solenoid, put switch on glowplug and mount them on a random bolt in good location

 

[D2Cat]

If you want a better filter and easier to service check out one like this. I put this on my L305.

 

[L35]

Valve guide seals if motor oil, leaky injector if diesel.

 

[joesmith123]

Yes, soon once I get back to shop, enough with the idling and testing,

Get the tractor on all wheels moving around on its own

Go get the loader on it, work on the hydraulics

I've needed a loader for 2-3 year now,

This entire mission started from a need of a loader to do construction

install good battery, good ground and power wire, loader brackets and their big bolt, steering link, also went through and tighten all bolt that might be loose

now: rig up easy setup to start tractor, dont fasten down that battery until sure it can take voltage, get 2 switches and hook them up to starter/glowplug, find/rig up wiring for alternator charging, check voltage once you get it running

later: put on front wheel, go and get loader with tractor, bring to work area

install 2 switches on diesel tank, left is starter, right is glowplug

glowplug - big wire - right switch - big 12 volt solenoid next to starter

starter solenoid - left switch

these are the pathways used for this simple solution

now: wire up big wire for alternator, test out the system, make sure it charge the battery

test out glow plug switch, voltage showing at glowplug

video: test out starter switch, works

now: get it started, test voltage to see which terminal on alternator putting out voltage, run that wire to the main solenoid next to starter

used a volt meter to see which stud coming off alternator puts out the charging voltage

none of the leads, including the 3 leads inside the harness, show any voltage, except

tiny bit of voltage coming from lead I point to with flathead

could the alternator need a ground other than its frame being bolted to the engine block?

now: scratch them with wire wheel, and check voltages again

looked at diagram, does not label positive terminal

diagram off internet of how typical alternator wiring

it looks like that harness coming off alternator that go to fuse box has sense wires that need voltage

keep trying to rig up custom but if it is too complicated, maybe just re use all the factory wiring

now: experiment with putting in the harness that go into alternator and give 12 volt to those wire until she start putting out charging voltage

rigged up one wire from harness on alternator to constant 12 volt, now stud next to it putting out 17 volt, and

the stud i pointed to earlier putting out 28 volt, and if I connect those two stud, reading is 12 volt

looking at factory harness: run a wire from the stud showing 17 volt to the main terminal, and that shoud charge the system

let me know if this will work long term or there is a mistake

 

[joesmith123]

Finish rigging electric, move show forward

Oil level check after 7-8 hour idle, even with the small leaks it has, level has not dropped at all, still covers the "D" completely

made a good 6 gauge copper wire to connect alternator to the main lug, tightened everything down

only concern: now that alternator signal wire always on, will that drain battery?

now I heat up glow plug and i show you cold start with the switches

confirm, charging at the battery, show 13 volt

confirm, charging at the alternator, showing 13.2 volt

cold start with new switches: glow plug for 2-3 minute, only thing i did before video: run it 30 second with no compression to prime diesel

observation: after installing air filter and exhaust, see saw completely gone, and now idle might need adjustment, meaning

the seesaw idle from earlier has something to do with no constriction on its intake and exhaust,

with intake and exhaust, it is more balance the way it was engineered

at this moment, diesel engine purring, no leak, charging battery, have start and glow plug wiring installed...

move show forward: put front wheel on, fix seat temporarily, fix steering wheel later but install it, get it moving on its own

install front axle/propeller, strap down battery,

install propeller front axle

strap down battery, battery showing 13 volt, charging

go get front wheel, install them, temporarily put on steering wheel, put couple bolt on the seat,

also paint is about a day away, its solved

for first time in 5-6 month, she is standing on her own feet, ready to move on its own

only 3 task to operate: put all lugs in rear wheel, install seat and steering wheel

woah, there she is, idling in the sun, healed from her surgery, she got there all by herself

she almost die august 23, 2023, but november 13 2024, she back to life

She had her surgery 10-12 feet away from where the engine exploded, but now she heal

dont worry, i got the first ride on it on video, take 1 hour + to upload

while video upload: clear out the work area, level the ground a bit with bx1500, take L295 that just got revived,

take it to the loader, lift loader, get L295 attach to loader with couple bolt, lift up on front of loader with bx1500 3 point hitch, hold up loader on L295 with lumber, bring entire assembly to shade

video: yes, you witness first ride since august 23, 2023

Move my home with L295 3 point hitch

 

[Henro]

Just an observation, but I get the impression recently you have been coming back and adding to your posts via the edit function, after a fair amount of time has passed.

If you have been, this is very confusing to those who have already read the posts. I always thought the edit function was something to be used to correct typos and such, but not for the purpose of making significant changes/additions later.

Of course it matters not to someone reading the thread months later.

Just a thought if this is what has been happening...

 

[hagrid]

covers the "D" completely

Sounds like my prom night.

 

[NCL4701]

Just curious, why are the rear tires backwards?

 

[Russell King]

Congratulations @joesmith123

I bet you were so worried when it didn’t move and then ecstatic when you got it rolling!

two observations though
Are your rear wheels on the wrong sides? Not that I am worried you are going to get stuck in the mud! But look at pic of tractors with similar tires, I think they will have the lugs the other way.

And what is the weird whistling noise as you walk behind the tractor? It sort of sounds like an air leak out of an air hose. Is the exhaust crushed or something? It might just be the camera microphone picking up wind noise but I only heard it both time you walked behind the tractor.

Again, congratulations on the success with the repair.

 

[Workerbee]

Sounds like my prom night.

Uh, different D Hagrid, different D

 

[joesmith123]

Bring loader to shade area, attach to L295DT, paint everything

clean up shop, leveling shop floor, getting ready for next step using bx1500, then

front left wheel of bx1500 grinding, with and without 4x4, it popped out of that weak structure holding the steering hydraulics

I might've run it dry and broke something inside the gear, but

it leveled it good enough and its a sign to focus on L295DT

paint showing up today probably, get ready for paint, I imagine:

take L295 to the loader, raise the loader with 3 point hitch on L95, get it on block, get it high enough over the front axle, attach some bolt of loader bracket to tractor, hold up front of loader using wood blocks

It would be easier if I had bx1500 running, and use the 3 point hitch to lift on the loader while getting it mocked onto the L295

And what is the weird whistling noise as you walk behind the tractor?

ok glad you think that sound off, I think also that


it started that sound when intake and exhaust installed, they seem to be sufficating the engine a lot

very unlikely that muffler is clogged, and no sign of being crushed, but

I try to stick long thin metal, and scratch away at whatever is inside of it

and yes, wheels will come off today/soon for paint and will be properly install

summary;

confirm that battery charging and can start it from cold start, soon we find out,

take L295 to the loader, lift loader, get couple bolt on tractor, bring loader to shade, get the tractor off of all wheel, and get loader fully attach tractor

maybe just drag the loader with the dolley and 3 point on L295, dont install loader since it will be being painted anyway,

nature will choose the path taken

battery completely, dead jump tractor with pickup

turns out, you cannot just give power to the alternator signal, it does need to have "ignition on", meaning

it does have a draw that will kill battery when tractor off, simple solution that I will likely do:

once I put components: I might just have to intstall the factory wiring and take out all the extra junk

or

(for now) put a master switch on the battery that I can turn on/off all power to battery, then

I would always have to remember to turn it off when turning off tractor

that would be hillbilly ignition

raise one end loader with L295 3 point hitch, get your dolly underneath

lift other side of loader with 3 point hitch, connect them, drag loader to the shade

hillbilly ignition: install this on the main battery terminal, turn off when machine off, turn on when you run machine

@D2Cat

yes, dinosaur always know something, i listen about the "diode"

could it be that simple, that diode can fix the issue? How could it know when to shut off that connection?

My suspicion: it does need a separate ignition, but nature will reveal the truth, per usual

now: paint almost here, take L295 and park it away from paint area (since it is already blue) and take wheels off and put it on blocks since wheels are orange, get loader on blocks and start soaking it in diesel, hit it with wire wheels, bring pallets and bring all parts getting orange, get all parts getting painted orange clean and ready for paint, grind down that jb weld used to cover welds on the hood,

declare few other task: the seat bolts did not line up the seat loose and slanted, maybe line it up properly or put new holes in seat bracket, take off steering wheel, level out the cracks using jb weld, and it might need a top seat if I cannot find solution cheap enough to fix current seat, unscrew the idle adjustment half a turn or more

3 point hitch and dolly to move big loader to shade

lift up on each side of loader with 3 point lift, get block under

install hillbilly ignition while charge dead battery

bring pallet close to loader, bring all parts getting orange

paint show up perfect time, you imagine that it will lay perfectly and you wont make mistake and matches properly, and

that it hit dinsaur hard with nostalgia, take them back to 1982..

 

[D2Cat]

Can't you put a diode in the wire at the alt. to keep it from bleeding off?