I think there already is enough sand blown in that engine that a screw or washer wouldn't matter much.
Fixing hole in side of block
- Thread starter joesmith123
- Start date
fried1765
Well-known member
Equipment
Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, Ford 8N, SCAG Liberty Z, Gravely Pro.
Figuring out radiator assembly
This diagram could solve assembly of radiator properly
These two brackets are 120 and 130 in diagram, they mount to frame, then radiator on top
Now, fill with coolant, get it started, run it for long time looking for leaks etc
Long video, first run with water, leaks front and back coolant, oil leak from hour meter
Water leaks at water pump and head, experimenting with idle, got it somewhat smooth, oil pressure fine, exhaust smoke clear
Ran it for about 30 minutes, always start up first try with barely any glowplug
Checking to see if oil level rising, no, oil staying full,
getting it up to working temperature, lowering the throttle to see how low I can get idle without engine shut down
Video: startup easy when warm, no glowplug, camera pointed at throttle, moving it small amounts to get idle lower, I punch foot pedal if she about to die
Only once you assemble it back together do you realize how deep inside the engine you were
This diagram could solve assembly of radiator properly
These two brackets are 120 and 130 in diagram, they mount to frame, then radiator on top
Now, fill with coolant, get it started, run it for long time looking for leaks etc
Long video, first run with water, leaks front and back coolant, oil leak from hour meter
Water leaks at water pump and head, experimenting with idle, got it somewhat smooth, oil pressure fine, exhaust smoke clear
Ran it for about 30 minutes, always start up first try with barely any glowplug
Checking to see if oil level rising, no, oil staying full,
getting it up to working temperature, lowering the throttle to see how low I can get idle without engine shut down
Video: startup easy when warm, no glowplug, camera pointed at throttle, moving it small amounts to get idle lower, I punch foot pedal if she about to die
Only once you assemble it back together do you realize how deep inside the engine you were
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Ran it for 1.5 hours before this clip
Best I can get it to idle without shutdown
Sweet spot for oil pressure while idling: 40 psi
Leaks got better by themselves, but still water and oil leaks
Leaks to fix: water leak where head connect to flange, water leak where gearcase connect to water pump, oil leak at hour meter, water leak at bottom radiator hose engine side, exhaust leak
Rear water leak fixed with 2 part plumbing glue, cut sensor, tightened bolt, put glue on it
Plan for leaks: take off radiator, address all water and oil leaks, seal it good and give last paint job
Exhaust leak: 2 gaskets and still leaking
Experiment: mix small bit of jb weld, apply with spatula,
let everything cure and try again tomorrow
I might experiment with: clean areas of leaks, use tiny brush applying jb weld on the leaks, let cure
I also have gasket maker I might experiment with
Summary: address all leaks, paint everything
Fixing leaks: took out radiator, tightening bolts, some were loose
Tighten all bolts, clean everything, give thick coat of paint on leaking areas, let it cure
Hit all areas getting paint with compressed air then part cleaner
Jb weld using brush over exhaust leak
Now: paint over areas that leak and other areas missed with blue paint
Spray leaking areas with paint, no thinner, applying thick into leaking areas
Aimed it also at: injectors, glowplug, gearcase bolts, all random hardware not painted, underneath tractor
@Lil Foot
Before taking off head a second time and fixing the leaks properly, I try this DIY method and see what she does
I had to finish painting the area anyway
Many of bolts where there are leaks were loose, I am hoping tightening the bolts, laying paint will fill the gaps
Also put gasket on the hour meter leak and cut hour meter
@Ktrim
Yes I comprehend: that exhaust connection warped, I can plane it with grinding disc if it bust through the jb weld
Experiment I test: can we fix leaks with jb weld and small brush? It apply very nicely over intended area
While waiting for paint to dry etc, clean shop, reorganize tools, put hangers on the trees and keep all tools used often close to work area, remove tools not being used,
start to envision the plan for making a solvent spraying system out of the 55 gallon barrels, eventually I'll get pictures and diagram
I envision: 2 barrels with small pumps pushing up, then I run hard line close to work area, then a small garden line for when I spray
Separate pump, lines and hoses for each of the two solvents
I'm thinking fuel pump pulling from barrel, pushing into tiny line, it stay at pressurized psi, shuts down when does not need to prime the line
Soon: clean whole shop, hang tools on trees close to tractors, paint some stuff black with spray can
I would also like to put metal up along shop upper side to make more shade/cool
Up close of leaking area after heavy coat paint
Barrels to be used for solvent spraying systems:
Be able to fill them up, and have pump coming out of them going to small garden hose I use
Can be layed sideways, use bigger hole as fill and vent, and smaller hosing going to fuel pump, then pushing into hardline
That would eliminate the problem of having to pull fluid up out of barrel
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Ktrim
Well-known member
Equipment
B2400, lA352 loader,3pth quick hitch/z122r zero turn/restored 52 farmall super a
Doesn't sound bad. Exhaust manifold probably warped.
How about an air filter. God only knows what you're sucking in.
How about an air filter. God only knows what you're sucking in.
Ktrim
Well-known member
Equipment
B2400, lA352 loader,3pth quick hitch/z122r zero turn/restored 52 farmall super a
On the manifold. Lay a straight edge along it. Should probably be planed but you can try permatex copper.
fried1765
Well-known member
Equipment
Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, Ford 8N, SCAG Liberty Z, Gravely Pro.
i’ll tell you what fried1765, I suddenly just got this feeling that Joe’s tractor will probably be running long after we aren’t anymore! We being close to being forum antique…
Lil Foot
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
1979 B7100DT Gear, Nissan Hanix N150-2 Excavator
Dat's jess wut i tinking ann we need give joe some incagment to cee him to the finish lion.i’ll tell you what fried1765, I suddenly just got this feeling that Joe’s tractor will probably be running long after we aren’t anymore! We being close to being forum antique…
joe, joe that our man, joe don't do it nobiddy kan.
It's taken me a long time (Which this thread has provided) to understand Joe better.
There's a lot of stuff Joe doesn't understand. But he doesn't CARE! HE will find reality, because reality always makes itself Known to you. Eventually. Or me.
I hate not knowing How Stuff Works. I'll go far afield to get information. Or ask Dan. When I was at IBM I made a good friend (call him Dr. Low). We worked on organizing the desktop computer revolution INSIDE IBM for eventually 4000 users. He was the Very Deeply Technical guy. I would walk into his office and look at him. He would silently wait for the question. Every time. Once we were in a meeting and I had a dozen questions of "Corporate Folk".. Low said, "I think I just figured out what will be written on Terry's Tombstone".
LET ME UNDERSTAND THIS..
The most amazing thing about this world is how DIFFERENT people can be!
MAYBE this should be moved to OFF TOPIC??
EDIT: I Saw This On The Internet: "Humans are only Off Topic when they're DEAD!"
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Paint still wet, reorganize shop, bring attachments closer to work area
Loader attachment: drag it using pickup truck and chains closer to tractors
Backhoe, same
Painted parts black with can, same with handles on tractor
Spilled paint yesterday, still not dry, don't start tractor and put water pressure on the paint yet
Up close: thick coat give it lizard skin look
Found in junk pile: moving around junk reorganizing the shop, this come off a airstream, I can use it to store gasket away from element
Put all tools back, hit everything with compressed air then part cleaner, cleaned out buckets, cleaned rags, gloves, etc
Threw away bunch of junk
This area: getting everything off the ground, moving all junk to where attachments are and need to bring attachments to this area
Along top of shop: put 4 foot of metal across whole shop to make more shade
@jaxs
#2. Now, imagine if you can what Joe could do with same playpen and toys Runswithsissors has.
Yes, please elaborate
Now, I am reconfiguring shop setup, need to add the barrel solvent spraying system, spread electrical across the posts to keep wire off ground
The one big improvement for the future: put strong beams across top, then when I want lift heavy stuff and couple them, I can hang everything using chain on those beams
I want to lift entire machine reliably
Though they seem like many different projects, they are all one project, generally speaking
Plan: bring all attachments, parts, wheels, everything
Organized in the shop and chip away at all tasks in phases
Example: have all parts that need orange paint all in one area, hit them in one shot
Basically: bring all parts of both tractors, set them up in fashion that efficiently makes progress on entire job as a whole
Bring backhoe, setup stand for it, start reassembing it, bring loader and prep it for use, take apart non painted tractor, get it ready for blue paint, move everything not related to tractors away from site
Clear out and plan walkway for accessing every angle of all attachments/tractors/work benches/tools
Loader attachment: drag it using pickup truck and chains closer to tractors
Backhoe, same
Painted parts black with can, same with handles on tractor
Spilled paint yesterday, still not dry, don't start tractor and put water pressure on the paint yet
Up close: thick coat give it lizard skin look
Found in junk pile: moving around junk reorganizing the shop, this come off a airstream, I can use it to store gasket away from element
Put all tools back, hit everything with compressed air then part cleaner, cleaned out buckets, cleaned rags, gloves, etc
Threw away bunch of junk
This area: getting everything off the ground, moving all junk to where attachments are and need to bring attachments to this area
Along top of shop: put 4 foot of metal across whole shop to make more shade
@jaxs
#2. Now, imagine if you can what Joe could do with same playpen and toys Runswithsissors has.
Yes, please elaborate
Now, I am reconfiguring shop setup, need to add the barrel solvent spraying system, spread electrical across the posts to keep wire off ground
The one big improvement for the future: put strong beams across top, then when I want lift heavy stuff and couple them, I can hang everything using chain on those beams
I want to lift entire machine reliably
Though they seem like many different projects, they are all one project, generally speaking
Plan: bring all attachments, parts, wheels, everything
Organized in the shop and chip away at all tasks in phases
Example: have all parts that need orange paint all in one area, hit them in one shot
Basically: bring all parts of both tractors, set them up in fashion that efficiently makes progress on entire job as a whole
Bring backhoe, setup stand for it, start reassembing it, bring loader and prep it for use, take apart non painted tractor, get it ready for blue paint, move everything not related to tractors away from site
Clear out and plan walkway for accessing every angle of all attachments/tractors/work benches/tools
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#1. Whoever said a few hundred posts earlier that Joe was being underestimated was right. Even if this tractor never runs,Joe long ago exceeded what most of us could predict.
#2. Now, imagine if you can what Joe could do with same playpen and toys Runswithsissors has.
#3. Based on past experience, if I spent an hour working in Joe's "shop" I would never find half the tools I misplaced.
Hello Joe,
fixing leaks with stuff applied on the outside is not likely to work. But lets see, if everybody tells me something does not work I am the first to try it anyway.
And I am glad that you wear safety boots when handling heavy equipment....
Kind regards,
Hugo
fixing leaks with stuff applied on the outside is not likely to work. But lets see, if everybody tells me something does not work I am the first to try it anyway.
And I am glad that you wear safety boots when handling heavy equipment....
Kind regards,
Hugo
Runs With Scissors
Well-known member
Equipment
L2501 TLB , Grappel, Brush Hog, Box Blade, Ballast box, Forks, Tiller, PH digger
With all due respect sir, I don't think you got the recent memo.Hello Joe,
fixing leaks with stuff applied on the outside is not likely to work. But lets see, if everybody tells me something does not work I am the first to try it anyway.
And I am glad that you wear safety boots when handling heavy equipment....
View attachment 139079
Kind regards,
Hugo
Apparently OSHA has recently approved sandals if you have the proper "chain mail arm guard" on.
fried1765
Well-known member
Equipment
Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, Ford 8N, SCAG Liberty Z, Gravely Pro.
The choice of "boots" fits in with the entire rebuild project!Hello Joe,
fixing leaks with stuff applied on the outside is not likely to work. But lets see, if everybody tells me something does not work I am the first to try it anyway.
And I am glad that you wear safety boots when handling heavy equipment....
View attachment 139079
Kind regards,
Hugo
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Got block back from machine shop
I try to show you cross hatches
Video: putting piston in new bores, first 2 are the NEW bores, last one is old bore
Testing piston out to see if they all feel the same
Right next to machine shop out in country, I share with you beautiful scene
May you forget about all English language, get away from the shop, and absorb the energy that this greenhouse put out
Massive engines at machine shop
May the size of these engines humble us and put things in perspective that:
Our little diesel engine projects ain't nothing in the big picture
Cleared area: yanked junk outta area get it ready to bring attachments and all tractor parts
Also, showing you the rattle inside bx1500 engine bay, broken bracket
Not inside engine damage
Reason why not starting engine,
Here's paint sitting in sun for 3 days, still wet
Just leave it alone, start reassembling other engine
Just realized I have everything ready to put block back onto tractor, I have:
All new main bearings, new main seal, all gaskets to seal crankshaft, new crank bearings 210, new pilot bearing for crankshaft, etc
Everything available to get block onto tractor, but I have no pistons, rings, connecting rod bearings
Plan: get block close to tractor, give everything a clean, press in new pilot bearing into crank
Problem: when I broke main bearing bolt, I took one from this tractor, I might not have enough main bearing bolts to get crank inside block
Regardless, make progress in that direction
Block close to tractor, put together crankshaft assembly, figure out parts needed, I think it is only main bearing bolts
Bearing case bolt, $65 for 1 bolt
Can't put engine on tractor because one bolt was busted when putting together other engine, unbelievable
Now: do other stuff while solving the bolt situation
I would swap it out with different bolt, but something tell me it is bad idea
I'm thinking: strip entire tractor, take wheels off, clean everything, use up rest of blue paint while waiting on one bolt
Bearing case bolt situation: I can't find any bolt available except for the $65 bolt from messick
I would feel bad for paying that much for 1 bolt
It's leading to the thought:
"Since I need at least 2 pistons for this engine and who knows what else, Why not just buy a whole other d1301 that has not been disassembled and would give pistons, tons of bolts, tons of hardware, etc"
Let me know how I can go about this, I'll search now for d1301 and see what come up
ok check out this idea: for the cost of the connecting rods and pistons etc I can get TWO L305s not sitting on wheels
I can get ton of hardware, 2 engine blocks, all axles, transmission, 6 pistons, all bolts that are expensive, and who knows what else
Let me know which route you would take:
1. Buy new parts $1000 minimum
Or
2. Get 2 L305s not sitting on wheels about 220 miles away, I'll try to get them for 1000
Regardless I save up while deciding
I am leaning toward getting the 2 L305s, because of how much extra I would get,
And I can make another good engine from the 2 305 engines
Please critique my thinking, soon I go rip apart other tractor and get her ready for paint
(Imagine, one $65 bolt started this long tangent)
Get rear of chassis on block, take wheel off, take off steering and body, remove harness, cut hour meter
Hit it hard with compressed air, file in left hand, then diesel, then wire wheel, then cleaner
Clearing body, took off wheel
I try to show you cross hatches
Video: putting piston in new bores, first 2 are the NEW bores, last one is old bore
Testing piston out to see if they all feel the same
Right next to machine shop out in country, I share with you beautiful scene
May you forget about all English language, get away from the shop, and absorb the energy that this greenhouse put out
Massive engines at machine shop
May the size of these engines humble us and put things in perspective that:
Our little diesel engine projects ain't nothing in the big picture
Cleared area: yanked junk outta area get it ready to bring attachments and all tractor parts
Also, showing you the rattle inside bx1500 engine bay, broken bracket
Not inside engine damage
Reason why not starting engine,
Here's paint sitting in sun for 3 days, still wet
Just leave it alone, start reassembling other engine
Just realized I have everything ready to put block back onto tractor, I have:
All new main bearings, new main seal, all gaskets to seal crankshaft, new crank bearings 210, new pilot bearing for crankshaft, etc
Everything available to get block onto tractor, but I have no pistons, rings, connecting rod bearings
Plan: get block close to tractor, give everything a clean, press in new pilot bearing into crank
Problem: when I broke main bearing bolt, I took one from this tractor, I might not have enough main bearing bolts to get crank inside block
Regardless, make progress in that direction
Block close to tractor, put together crankshaft assembly, figure out parts needed, I think it is only main bearing bolts
Bearing case bolt, $65 for 1 bolt
Can't put engine on tractor because one bolt was busted when putting together other engine, unbelievable
Now: do other stuff while solving the bolt situation
I would swap it out with different bolt, but something tell me it is bad idea
I'm thinking: strip entire tractor, take wheels off, clean everything, use up rest of blue paint while waiting on one bolt
Bearing case bolt situation: I can't find any bolt available except for the $65 bolt from messick
I would feel bad for paying that much for 1 bolt
It's leading to the thought:
"Since I need at least 2 pistons for this engine and who knows what else, Why not just buy a whole other d1301 that has not been disassembled and would give pistons, tons of bolts, tons of hardware, etc"
Let me know how I can go about this, I'll search now for d1301 and see what come up
ok check out this idea: for the cost of the connecting rods and pistons etc I can get TWO L305s not sitting on wheels
I can get ton of hardware, 2 engine blocks, all axles, transmission, 6 pistons, all bolts that are expensive, and who knows what else
Let me know which route you would take:
1. Buy new parts $1000 minimum
Or
2. Get 2 L305s not sitting on wheels about 220 miles away, I'll try to get them for 1000
Regardless I save up while deciding
I am leaning toward getting the 2 L305s, because of how much extra I would get,
And I can make another good engine from the 2 305 engines
Please critique my thinking, soon I go rip apart other tractor and get her ready for paint
(Imagine, one $65 bolt started this long tangent)
Get rear of chassis on block, take wheel off, take off steering and body, remove harness, cut hour meter
Hit it hard with compressed air, file in left hand, then diesel, then wire wheel, then cleaner
Clearing body, took off wheel
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That bolt looks like the center is 'necked down' as an oil passage. An equivalent length/thread bolt might be able to be put in a lathe and modified like that. Probably the aftermarket supplier for Messicks does something like that..
