Fixing hole in side of block

[TerryKing]

re: But rather than cheer from the sideline don't you think there's more to be learned by tearing an engine down and following along?

BTDT.. 100s of gas engines...from COX049s to BBV8s, though no diesels, well, 1... for an RC Airplane I once built.

I also have designed/built a LOT of electronics from crystal radios to optical emission spectrometer data acquistions computers to remote controlled energy management systems, hand soldering everything or wire wrapping.

Current project is to make a towable, small scale rotary soil trommel. something the BX23S can tow, then use tractor to load the hopper. While not as 'complicated' as an engine rebuild ,it's more challenging.

Hello Jay.
Re: Fixing Hole In Sides of Personal Philosophy ...

You and Joe have rarely-seen Persistence to do what you have done... more than me, although I've done many of the things you mentioned, starting with Cox and Ohlson engines, in 84 years.

Back when designing computer controlled measurement systems at IBM, I got to talk with Buckminister Fuller. We talked about starting new projects. One thing he said that I have adopted, but wish I had heard when I was 12 was: "Dare to be Naive ! ! " QUOTE

Joe was Naive about Brazing. Didn't bother him at all, or make him stop. He asked questions.

What is it that keeps us STARTING over and over again??

Regards, Terry

PS: Yeah, you made me look up a word! "soil trommel"

 

[TerryKing]

Joe, since you like to make do with what you have, I wonder if you could use a hose clamp rather than the proper tool to get the rings compressed into the piston so you can insert the piston?

You might have to use multiple hose clamps, but it might work…

" tool to get the rings compressed into the piston so you can insert the piston "

Or you could use the method my Mother witnessed in the milk room in 1935 as my Grandfather Rufus Norton put new rings in a Ford Model T engine:

Piston inserted with rings sitting on top of block. My Grandmother Jane Norton took a strong string and carefully fitted it around one ring, wrapped the ends around her hands, pulled strongly as my Grandfather tapped the piston down one ring. Repeated for each ring.

Joe, you just need a strong woman.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

Hay I LOVE the 'new use for a gear clamp' !!!!

Thinking outside the box, use what you got, seeing stuff 'differently' than others
Not everyone can afford $10,000 worth of tools to rebuild one engine,once so it's GREAT to see low tech, low cost SOLUTIONS.

yeah the trommel is a winter project, need to find 2 electric treadmills, one for material infeed from hopper to screen, other to direct waste to one side. BX23s front tires/rims will allow me to haul it around the neighborhood.

 

[fried1765]

Cylinder 3 fixed, now has 300 psi

View attachment 138067

New piston, new rings, connecting rod from spare engine


View attachment 138069

Ready to go into bore

View attachment 138070

Installed piston with large hose clamp

Put top back on for compression test, now all 3 pistons have 300 psi

Equal, but,.....Is 300 psi sufficient ?

 

[GreensvilleJay]

surely the spec is in the WSM ?

 

[fried1765]

surely the spec is in the WSM ?

And.......just what is that spec.?
Most diesels show 300 - 500 psi as recommended.
Joe's 300 psi. would seem to be the absolute minimum.

 

[Henro]

And.......just what is that spec.?
Most diesels show 300 - 500 psi as recommended.
Joe's 300 psi. would seem to be the absolute minimum.

Hard to say what the actual true compression is for certain.

Looks like the test meter is a set from Harbor freight or equivalent. Who knows what the true PSI value actually is? Need a trusted, calibrated meter to be sure.

At least it shows equal compression in all three cylinders, as of the last report.

 

[PoTreeBoy]

Hay I LOVE the 'new use for a gear clamp' !!!!

New? We used them on Briggs & Stratton's 50 years ago - back when they were worth overhauling. You had to file the buckle a little to keep the burr edge from scratching the ring.

 

[Hugo Habicht]

Most diesels show 300 - 500 psi as recommended.
Joe's 300 psi. would seem to be the absolute minimum.

At minimum yes, but within specification.

 

[joesmith123]

Spec sheet for d1301

Compression: 450 standard, 325 lower limit

At minimum yes, but within specification.

It seems to me that hugo knows about engines and has experience, so for him to say "within spec" means that it is fine in my language

My suspicion: with the starter spinning engine, it cannot produce the 450 psi

Once engine running, it should produce more psi than when starter turning it

Please someone critique this theory or give real data

Plan: put back on the oil pan, put oil inside engine

Is it time to give it diesel and see if she starts? I can rig up the glow plugs as well if need be

Let me know if there are any major holdups to giving it diesel and starting it, while I go reinstall the oil pan and put oil in the engine

Side note: other block has been BORED and is ready for pickup from machine shop then reassembly (block without the hole in it)

Loom close, metal shaving, my suspicion- it is that bent connecting rod rubbing on crankshaft

Cleaned oil pan, reinstall

Cast iron oil pan heavy, had to build up stage

Gave engine one last rinse

Gasket back on head cover

Put cover on, poured gallon oil back in engine, washed oil filter inside

Rig up glow plug and injector plumbing

New plumbing for injectors, hit end with lighter then quickly get it into injector, recycled hardware

Hit fuse holder with compressed air

Tracing wires down, rig it up for first startup

Rigged everything up then realized I have remove it again to paint, stop

Plan: rig up diesel to it, rig the choke and make sure I know how to shut it off, and locate the diesel cutoff in case the spring comes off the choke

Do this before first startup

 

[Hugo Habicht]

Hello Joe,

sorry, "within spec" was based on the 300-500 psi mentioned. According to the manual it is outside the Kubota specification, but I would not get excited about it. Typically compression is measured with warm engine which you do not have at the moment. As somebody mentioned already compression is similar on all cylinders.

Kind regards,
Hugo

p.s: thinking of offering parts cleaning as a business? I could send lots of stuff to you for cleaning then
p.p.s: did you have another look at this small spring? Do you not have pictures when you took everything apart?

 

[chim]

Equal, but,.....Is 300 psi sufficient ?

In a previous post Joe had a picture of a pressure gage that is 300# max. Maybe it would be more accurate to say "300# minimum"? I'm hoping Joe's engine purrs like a kitten.

 

[sitric]

No cross hatching in the cylinder. 300# seems about right.

 

[fried1765]

In a previous post Joe had a picture of a pressure gage that is 300# max. Maybe it would be more accurate to say "300# minimum"? I'm hoping Joe's engine purrs like a kitten.

"hoping" ????
I have never considered "hoping" to be a strategy for success!

 

[Ktrim]

Needs diesel compression tester not one for gas

 

[Henro]

"hoping" ????
I have never considered "hoping" to be a strategy for success!

Fried1763… I’m starting to get the impression you’re a pessimist!

BUT you do keep bumping Joe’s posts to the top of the list, so that’s a positive…

 

[joesmith123]

Rigged up for first test

Diesel to injection pump, check

Tripod setup for video

First attempt: primed lines, shot diesel out the injector

Let it cool, tighten injector, try again

Tried again, won't start, needs power to glow plugs

Rig up power to the glow plugs

Either rig up factory key switch or make a switch and clamp it to 12 v

I'll rig up the factory system with new switch and make sure power going to glow plugs

Made a wire for power glow plugs

Heated glow plugs for long periods, everything hot, keeps cranking but no start

Am I forgetting something? I have it rigged up not using the key switch, running the starter directly to battery

The wiring is not put together, it has diesel going to injection pump, there is no leaks

Does the wiring have to be proper or can it run in the condition I have in?

I remembered, take out compression to let engine spin freely and prime all the lines

Does it sound ok?

Best way I found: spin fast without compression, then switch compression on

It sounds like it wants to start, give up for now until I find better plan

In the meantime, take all body panels off, clean entire tractor, get it ready for paint

While waiting to see next best step on engine start, make progress on paint goal

 

[MountainMeadows]

When it comes to compression keep in mind those new rings aren't broken in and seated yet so 300 psi is a good starting point.

 

[fried1765]

Fried1763… I’m starting to get the impression you’re a pessimist!

BUT you do keep bumping Joe’s posts to the top of the list, so that’s a positive…

"Realist".......might be more appropriate!

 

[Russell King]

There is no choke on your engine @joesmith123!

The lever you were moving is a decompression lever. It did not appear to be working properly since there did not appear to be any difference in the speed the engine was spinning (In the video)

On my L185 it is pulled to the right (looking from the front of the engine) to provide zero compression and then when released there is a spring that pulls it back to the left and allows compression in all cylinders.

I have never looked into how it works under the valve cover but assumes it pushes down slightly on the exhaust valve. But not too much or the valve can come into contact with the piston.

I would assume that you need to look into that to get it working.

Further to that I think that your engine is spinning slowly and might not be able to fire off. There is no magic RPM for starting since I have gotten mine started on a nearly dead battery but yours seemed “slow”.

May need to charge the battery overnight or use two batteries to get it spinning faster?