Fixing hole in side of block

GreensvilleJay

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If you have the time, walk away from it for a week. I'm sure you have another 'project' to work on. Let the epoxy properly cure..longer is better.
Right now it'll have a 'skim coat' of harness but inside still like pudding or taffy.
You have to have patience.
Looks like you have more than enough on it,just don't grind/sand too much !! You want strength NOT 'show room' pretty !!
 
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fried1765

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Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, Ford 8N, SCAG Liberty Z, Gravely Pro.
Nov 14, 2019
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Installed patch with jb weld

View attachment 136278 View attachment 136279 View attachment 136280 View attachment 136282 View attachment 136283 View attachment 136284 View attachment 136285 View attachment 136286 View attachment 136287 View attachment 136288

Used file to hit engine block hard making indentations

Cleaned everything with alcohol

Setup the area to do the weld

Mentally planned it out

Then applied the weld using brush and small spatula with gloves on

Being careful not to move it, applied generous amounts on top and bottom

Came back with paper towels to clean areas that splattered

Next step: let it cure, hit it with slow moving hard wire wheel smoothing it out

Apply the paint can in the picture you saw

Later on, disassemble crankcase, hit the stuck on gasket with nylon stripping pad

Hit all crankcase pieces and crankshaft with soft wire wheel

Get it ready to install new bearings
Finally!
It has been a real struggle (362 posts) just to get this far!
 
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joesmith123

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L295DT, BX1500
Mar 18, 2023
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earth
Hit tons of parts with wire wheel

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Put cover over block that just got jb weld, let it cure in darkness

Documented the crankcase of which way the serials face, showing a and b stamps

Took apart crank assembly, got different clamps to hit everything with wire wheels of all kinds

Using metal cut off to strip gaskets, nylon stripping disc too slow

Hit bearing case journals hard with t shaped wire wheel, removed all sludge, smooth now

 
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joesmith123

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L295DT, BX1500
Mar 18, 2023
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Cleaned parts, stripped gaskets

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Cleaned more parts, hit gaskets with metal cutoff disc

Hit everything with 6 inch wire wheel on polisher

Hit everything with parts cleaner

Ready for reassembly

All parts feel extremely smooth to the touch, engine had very little actual wear

Notice the damage to starter from when it shot out of the block, jb weld job for later


Up close of bearing journals and crankshaft
 
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jaxs

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B1750HST
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Couple of those crank journals look like they might need to be hit with angle grinder.
 
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fried1765

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Nov 14, 2019
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Couple of those crank journals look like they might need to be hit with angle grinder.
Perhaps not angle grinder!
Maybe, more pressurized gasoline instead? :(
 
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DustyRusty

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I would love to send some of my greasy crusty parts to him for cleaning. He has way more patience cleaning than I ever had. If the engine doesn't run when he gets it all back together, at least he can make a cut away engine out of it and sell it for big bucks to some collector. I had a cut away Troy Built tiller that I sold at a swap meet for $2500 to a collector of cut away machinery.
 
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D2Cat

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I posted this on the Daily Chuckle, but it fits better here.

“What the herd hates most is the one who thinks differently; it is not so much the opinion itself, but the audacity of wanting to think for themselves, something that they do not know how to do.”
-Arthur Schopenhauer (1788-1860)

1725117873282.jpeg
 
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Henro

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I posted this on the Daily Chuckle, but it fits better here.

“What the herd hates most is the one who thinks differently; it is not so much the opinion itself, but the audacity of wanting to think for themselves, something that they do not know how to do.”
-Arthur Schopenhauer (1788-1860)

View attachment 136413
Perhaps for this thread, it should be more like:

IMG_0357.jpeg
 
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joesmith123

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L295DT, BX1500
Mar 18, 2023
525
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earth
Remember thread title "Fixing Hole In Side Of Block" and avoid clicking on it then!!
dont tell that to the best commenter - I explain

Anything they post, puts my issue to the top of the page, then someone make statement that move the project forward, their contribution is tremendously "positive"

I would love to send some of my greasy crusty parts to him for cleaning. He has way more patience cleaning than I ever had. If the engine doesn't run when he gets it all back together, at least he can make a cut away engine out of it and sell it for big bucks to some collector. I had a cut away Troy Built tiller that I sold at a swap meet for $2500 to a collector of cut away machinery.
When you hold the crankshaft after it is cleaned and hit with wire wheel, it is a work of art, it feels tremendously valuable, my instinct: ZERO chance they make them like this today because of all the cost cutting procedures, that part probably came out of a japanese foundry from the late 70s...

Remember the goal: try to make a $15K machine out of a $1000 machine, using a small budget, and opening up all avenues of air/fuel/whatever the factory designed it to do

You do not want to do this again for 10 years since it takes hundreds of hours of labor at a minimum

I posted this on the Daily Chuckle, but it fits better here.

“What the herd hates most is the one who thinks differently; it is not so much the opinion itself, but the audacity of wanting to think for themselves, something that they do not know how to do.”
-Arthur Schopenhauer (1788-1860)

View attachment 136413
This is FALSE, I explain:

90% of people watching this are thinking: "oh wow, that looks like it is going great"

They do not comment, IE none of us SEE it

10% are thinking: "What a huge waste of time, it will not work out" and they are more MOVED to comment

Same thing for restaurant: Only a tiny few complain and leave the negative reviews

Meaning: As much as it seems like your meme is the correct narrative, NO, 90% agree with this plan and do not feel the need to comment, and actually side with joe smith

Perhaps for this thread, it should be more like:

View attachment 136418
I throw BIG monkey wrenches in your narrative:

I side with the herd AGAINST joe smith since, We want the people to be statistically correct, meaning

joe smith had a 1% chance of getting bronze to stick to the cast iron, making those voices that said "hire someone/dont do it" STATISTICALLY correct, IE we want the "herd" to be statistically correct

2nd monkey wrench:

YOUR HEADING IS WRONG, hear me out

The heading should be:

"Who are these people figuring it out for a random stranger for free?!"

Take the spotlight AWAY from this project, and FOCUS IT FULLY on those individuals who are shooting from the hip and "figuring it out" for me

Meaning, I am not figuring anything out, there are people on here critically thinking and I am just doing the labor, you are factually incorrect

(these monkey wrenches are good for you since you are ready for it, it seems)

Moving forward:

We are not far from the first test run of the engine with the hole in it!

These parts that will show up within a couple weeks, should get it to the point of getting it running

No need to put all those extra parts, the front axle, all that junk, we are fixing to put some diesel to it, and crank on it and see what she does

no coolant, no all that extra stuff on the front, no alternator, no belt, no anything but the stuff to see if its gonna blow up

Also, I reread wolf statement he said on page 2: you can swap out those complete pistons from the other engine and use those on the engine with the bent connecting rods (something along the lines of "connecting rod assemblies are NOT specific to the block)...

One thing I am researching:

20240831_141533.jpg


Here is that bearing on the back of the crankshaft

To pull it out: What is the best tool for this?

I checked youtube, tons of other types of bearing removal but not this type

It wants something to go into it, expand, then pull on it to separate it from the crankshaft
 
Last edited:

jaxs

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B1750HST
Jun 22, 2023
733
522
93
Texas
:oops::rolleyes: I'll be paying closer attention now that flying monkey wrenches showed up and I can't use any more knots on my head.
 
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hagrid

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I've read you can extract pilot bearings by packing the cavity with grease and machining some round stock to closely fit the bearing ID.

Smack round stock with hammer and the bearing is hydraulically driven out.
 
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Ktrim

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Equipment
B2400, lA352 loader,3pth quick hitch/z122r zero turn/restored 52 farmall super a
Dec 23, 2020
423
332
63
Nazareth Pa
Installed patch with jb weld

View attachment 136278 View attachment 136279 View attachment 136280 View attachment 136282 View attachment 136283 View attachment 136284 View attachment 136285 View attachment 136286 View attachment 136287 View attachment 136288

Used file to hit engine block hard making indentations

Cleaned everything with alcohol

Setup the area to do the weld

Mentally planned it out

Then applied the weld using brush and small spatula with gloves on

Being careful not to move it, applied generous amounts on top and bottom

Came back with paper towels to clean areas that splattered

Next step: let it cure, hit it with slow moving hard wire wheel smoothing it out

Apply the paint can in the picture you saw

Later on, disassemble crankcase, hit the stuck on gasket with nylon stripping pad

Hit all crankcase pieces and crankshaft with soft wire wheel

Get it ready to install new bearings
Little tip with jb weld. If you apply rubbing alcohol on your finger you can smooth the jb out Like a baby's butt
 
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Ktrim

Well-known member

Equipment
B2400, lA352 loader,3pth quick hitch/z122r zero turn/restored 52 farmall super a
Dec 23, 2020
423
332
63
Nazareth Pa
dont tell that to the best commenter - I explain

Anything they post, puts my issue to the top of the page, then someone make statement that move the project forward, their contribution is tremendously "positive"



When you hold the crankshaft after it is cleaned and hit with wire wheel, it is a work of art, it feels tremendously valuable, my instinct: ZERO chance they make them like this today because of all the cost cutting procedures, that part probably came out of a japanese foundry from the late 70s...

Remember the goal: try to make a $15K machine out of a $1000 machine, using a small budget, and opening up all avenues of air/fuel/whatever the factory designed it to do

You do not want to do this again for 10 years since it takes hundreds of hours of labor at a minimum



This is FALSE, I explain:

90% of people watching this are thinking: "oh wow, that looks like it is going great"

They do not comment, IE none of us SEE it

10% are thinking: "What a huge waste of time, it will not work out" and they are more MOVED to comment

Same thing for restaurant: Only a tiny few complain and leave the negative reviews

Meaning: As much as it seems like your meme is the correct narrative, NO, 90% agree with this plan and do not feel the need to comment, and actually side with joe smith



I throw BIG monkey wrenches in your narrative:

I side with the herd AGAINST joe smith since, We want the people to be statistically correct, meaning

joe smith had a 1% chance of getting bronze to stick to the cast iron, making those voices that said "hire someone/dont do it" STATISTICALLY correct, IE we want the "herd" to be statistically correct

2nd monkey wrench:

YOUR HEADING IS WRONG, hear me out

The heading should be:

"Who are these people figuring it out for a random stranger for free?!"

Take the spotlight AWAY from this project, and FOCUS IT FULLY on those individuals who are shooting from the hip and "figuring it out" for me

Meaning, I am not figuring anything out, there are people on here critically thinking and I am just doing the labor, you are factually incorrect

(these monkey wrenches are good for you since you are ready for it, it seems)

Moving forward:

We are not far from the first test run of the engine with the hole in it!

These parts that will show up within a couple weeks, should get it to the point of getting it running

No need to put all those extra parts, the front axle, all that junk, we are fixing to put some diesel to it, and crank on it and see what she does

no coolant, no all that extra stuff on the front, no alternator, no belt, no anything but the stuff to see if its gonna blow up

Also, I reread wolf statement he said on page 2: you can swap out those complete pistons from the other engine and use those on the engine with the bent connecting rods (something along the lines of "connecting rod assemblies are NOT specific to the block)...

One thing I am researching:

View attachment 136432

Here is that bearing on the back of the crankshaft

To pull it out: What is the best tool for this?

I checked youtube, tons of other types of bearing removal but not this type

It wants something to go into it, expand, then pull on it to separate it from the crankshaft
Blind hole bearing puller
 
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trevoroni

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B6000
May 24, 2023
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119
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I used one of those pullers from Amazon to pull out a blind bearing outer race that separated in the front axle.
It did the job... Barely, the arms kept bending but it got the job done.

Got the pinion shaft installed with the new bearings and flushed out the case and both the left and right gear case and put new 80w90 in it. The stuff that came out of there was pretty nasty as expected. I also used a magnet to get out the fine shavings... It's about as good as it's going to get without disassembling the whole thing.

Everything seams to be working alright although the pinion and ring gear are pretty noisy which was expected with the way they were worn. I'm just going to run it as is until it either breaks completely or a replacement axle is found. I don't think there's much point trying to adjust the shims with the way the gears look.

It looks like I'll be looking at $1000 for a new ring and pinion plus the trouble of shimming it for backlash and meshing. Hopefully a replacement axle can be found for less than that.

The pilot bearing puller worked great but I had to bend the arms a bit to grab the outer bearing race. And the standoff arms were a little short for pulling the last half of the bearing out so I macgyvered it with some magnets.

All and all a successful day with some help from the girls for Father's Day. :love:PXL_20230617_140420430.jpgPXL_20230617_140812158.jpg

I've also heard of the grease trick... And even bread as it's not as messy.:ROFLMAO:


Where is this suggestion that others are making that I have lots of experience welding?

Please elaborate on exactly what you mean, with full sentences and zero assumptions
I haven't been following along very close with your progress but it looks like you've been doing a good job of figuring it out as you go... Even despite what others have been saying.
That patch forming was fantastic.

My comment was based on that and it looks better than some people's work with many years of practice rather than a first attempt.

I haven't read much of your earlier progress in getting to this point but it looks like you're doing a decent job with what you have available.

I'm sure these tractor's and lots of other old equipment has seen worse repair jobs and still had many years of service afterwards.

I really am rooting for you and hope that you get it figured out and back in operation!
 
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Ktrim

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B2400, lA352 loader,3pth quick hitch/z122r zero turn/restored 52 farmall super a
Dec 23, 2020
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Nazareth Pa
I'll 2nd you dusty on the parts cleaning. Wish i had the patience.
 
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Sidekick

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Kioti CK2620SE cab, RTV-X, BX2360, Z726XKW-3-60
Jul 29, 2023
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I've read you can extract pilot bearings by packing the cavity with grease and machining some round stock to closely fit the bearing ID.

Smack round stock with hammer and the bearing is hydraulically driven out.
That's how we used to get the brass pilot bushings out of Chevy engines when changing a clutch. Just used an old transmission input shaft. Not sure if it works for ball bearings though. Usually a slide hammer with internal puller will do it.
 
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D2Cat

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Mar 27, 2014
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Joe, this is the only picture I could find. It's removing the bearing in that same tractor the nasty clutch was in, an L2050.

Simply use axle grease on the end of a dowel rod that is the same diameter and the bearing (so grease can't escape past the dowel and the bearing). This forces the bearing out. You can fabricate the dowel rod out of any thing available, even a broom handle!!
 

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