Fixing hole in side of block

[joesmith123]

All bolts hit with wire wheel in bucket of diesel

Spent 30 minutes wet sanding the journal that threw the rod, its not as smooth as the other journals, but good enough

All bolts are in sections of where they come from, the bags are lableled: gears, crankcase, engine to tractor, bell housing all together with their hardware

What you see is all the bolts for the rebuild cleaned

dump one section in diesel bucket, hit it with wire wheel on drill, spinning the diesel, take them all out, put them on the table together, did this task to all bolts

Video: a section of bolts being hit with wire wheel in bucket of diesel, do not worry about the details, keep them together in areas they belong in sections as you took them out

 

[joesmith123]

Starter damage, bend metal back and jb weld patch

Removed cap on starter, tried to bend the metal with chisels, couldnt

Cut damaged with cutting wheel

Hit area of damage with file, then compressed air, then cleaned entire area and sprayed diesel, cleaned inside of starter, hit it with compressed air

Made a gasket for the cover, put the two remaining screws and put it back on starter

Cut random piece of metal roof, bent it the shape of the damage, used sharpies to label where to grind, shaped it to the damaged area

cleaned everything with alcohol, put gloves on, mixed jb weld, caked onto patch, put patch onto starter, used spatula to evenly distribute

 

[fried1765]

Starter damage, bend metal back and jb weld patch

View attachment 136466

Having clean parts is really nice, but are they all actually serviceable/usable parts?

 

[DustyRusty]

I have the tool to remove that bearing, but it is late, and I am tired, I will take a picture in the morning and post it. I remember buying it in 1958 and using it once to get a job done.

 

[Workerbee]

Any marine shop would have the tool to remove that bearing. Theyre a slide hammer with legs that hook the bearing. Pretty much a needed tool to replace the bearings in the front of a lower unit.

 

[joesmith123]

That patch forming was fantastic.

My comment was based on that and it looks better than some people's work with many years of practice rather than a first attempt.

I cast narrative into our realm, that one day a stranger say to you:

"You're trolling us , right? Theres no way you just did that with the little experience you have..."

And may you be confused and ask them to elaborate

May they double down! And say,

"I've seen experienced people do worse jobs than your first attempts"

May you walk around for days wondering what this means

It has been said! It is in motion!

ok yes I read yalls statements about taking out that bearing, I get back to shop and pump grease into it and see if it comes out

Tried 2 different grease guns, pumping grease, won't budge on both crankshaft

New plan, heat the area with torch, then loosen it using air chisel, then try again pumping grease into it

I try now

Did not work, grease escaping from outside radius

Escaping not from where I put the rod, the outside of the bearing

In the picture, that is the best thing I found to try to fill it with grease, then hit with hammer

Could be seized to crankshaft after 44 years, stop working, go back and look at the tools people mentioned, find a different solution

Up close, escaping from outside radius of part we are removing

 

[Workerbee]

Your comprehension skills off today? Get the area full of grease. As full as possible, then drive a snug fitting shaft or dowel in.

 

[D2Cat]

Your dowel needs fit snugly (like an interference fit) so grease can't get past it!!!!!!! The heavier the grease the better.

 

[Jim L.]

Exactly what the other fellows are saying. When the dowel is hit, the force will transfer through the grease. Grease should flow under the bearing, and then out between the bearing and crankshaft. A rag around it will stop a grease explosion from hitting you.

If preferred, soak the area between the bearing and the crankshaft with penetrating oil, and then use grease.

The method does work.

 

[joesmith123]

Tried everything, grease keeps escaping too quickly from outside radius of bearing

Last attempt: found this part that is slightly bigger than the hole, put on vice grind down to fit the hole

Filled each crankshaft with grease, gave it solid hit, all grease quickly escape from outside area

Now: look at the suggestions and try to get the proper tool

Patch on engine block after two days curing: plan - hit it with slow grinding wheel, then hit with spray can yall saw

Bell housing: getting ready to grease entire area all moving parts

Took off side cover to access hole better

Greased everything, pushing clutch back and forth

 

[joesmith123]

Grinded down jb weld, painted patch

Hit jb weld with grinding disc, 800 rpm

Grind down high areas, tried wire wheel, it can't grind down jb weld

Hit with compressed air, get files and hit nooks and crannies

Hit with compressed air, wipe with alcohol, hit it with matching paint

Plan: clean up shop, get all tools out of sight, solve the bearing removal and wait on parts

 

[jaxs]

Bell housing: getting ready to grease entire area all moving parts

Took off side cover to access hole better

Greased everything, pushing clutch back and forth


View attachment 136524

Bell housing: getting ready to grease entire area all moving parts



Took off side cover to access hole better

View attachment 136526

Greased everything, pushing clutch back and forth

There might not be enough excess grease on those parts to lubricate clutch disc so save a handful to "hit the clutch plate with" before buttoning up.

 

[DustyRusty]

This is the tool. It is an OTC 955. There are a few of them on eBay for $40 and up. You need the U shaped part to pull against the block. https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p4432023.m570.l1313&_nkw=OTC+955&_sacat=0

pilot bearing puller.

 

[hagrid]

I suppose if the pilot is a ball bearing and it isn't shielded on the inside then the grease will just pop off the outside shield, letting the grease vent through the balls.

 

[PaulL]

I don't see how the grease can go outside the bearing if the bearing is tight. If the bearing is not tight, I don't see how it isn't coming out. Are you sure it's not coming out through the bearing - through the balls? Even then, I'd expect if the grease is packed tight, and the dowel is hit firmly, it should still put enough pressure on to push the bearing out before the grease all leaks.

 

[chim]

Guessing here. It looks like Joe is not using a punch that fits the ID of the bearing and the grease is squishing out around the punch. OR, the punch has a diameter that reduces before it reaches "home" going through the bearing.

Just for giggles, it wouldn't take a lot of time to cobble up something like this to try. Find a bolt that has a head, that when rounded, fits through the ID of the bearing. Grind the points off. Make a saw kerf from the head end into the shank of the bolt. Insert the head end into the bearing so the head is on the back side. Drive a small wedge into the kerf to spread the head so it grabs the back side of the bearing . Take a short piece of pipe, or a couple pieces of steel that will sit outboard of the bearing's OD. Bridge the pipe/steel with another sturdy piece of steel with a hole for the threaded end of the bolt to protrude through. Put a greased-up washer and bolt on it and tighten.

EDIT: Pardon the crude image.

 

[D2Cat]

Grinded down jb weld, painted patch

View attachment 136529 View attachment 136530 View attachment 136531 View attachment 136532 View attachment 136533 View attachment 136534 View attachment 136535 View attachment 136536 View attachment 136537

Hit jb weld with grinding disc, 800 rpm

Grind down high areas, tried wire wheel, it can't grind down jb weld

Hit with compressed air, get files and hit nooks and crannies

Hit with compressed air, wipe with alcohol, hit it with matching paint

Plan: clean up shop, get all tools out of sight, solve the bearing removal and wait on parts

This task would be much easier with a flap dice on your 4 1/2" angle grinder. Take a couple of minutes, don't have to change tools, nice smooth finish. https://www.harborfreight.com/4-12-...s-backing-and-aluminum-oxide-grain-57749.html

 

[ejb11235]

The thought that keeps coming back to me watching this journey is that in third world countries they do what they have to do to keep stuff running, without the luxury of being able to take things to machine shops, or ordering replacement parts. Sure, it would be nice to machine a damaged crankshaft journal and fit an oversized bearing shell, but all you got is fine-grit sandpaper you get it as smooth as you can and put it back together and get some more hours out of it.

I'm still thinking about how nicely that engine block patch turned out.

I'm really interested to see how this project turns out.

 

[fried1765]

The thought that keeps coming back to me watching this journey is that in third world countries they do what they have to do to keep stuff running, without the luxury of being able to take things to machine shops, or ordering replacement parts. Sure, it would be nice to machine a damaged crankshaft journal and fit an oversized bearing shell, but all you got is fine-grit sandpaper you get it as smooth as you can and put it back together and get some more hours out of it.

I'm still thinking about how nicely that engine block patch turned out.

I'm really interested to see how this project turns out.

The key words there are......."some more hours"
Wonder, just how many ??????

 

[Russell King]

The key words there are......."some more hours"
Wonder, just how many ??????

I thought you said you were coming back after Christmas.

Did Chris come early in Maine this year?