Fixing hole in side of block

Ktrim

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I will give you props on the patch shapeand fitting. Way more patience than I would have. But the loader will be so damn heavy you won't have any lift left for material
 
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jaxs

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Not sure this is worth posting, but…

Somewhat before I was born, I think mid-1960’s, my father bought this Ford that had a long crack and chunk missing from the left side of the block. He rebuilt the engine and glued a piece of steel in the hole with some sort of two part epoxy. In the late 1970’s it started to weep coolant. I was tasked with removing the coolant, wire brushing as needed, and prepping to re-coat with JB Weld. The point was to make it functional and if it looked good or looked like crap was irrelevant. View attachment 136129
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First attempt at repair with epoxy lasted about 15 years +/-. Follow up with JB Weld lasted about 45 years +/- and still counting so far as I know.

No telling how many hours my father put on that thing with the epoxy repaired block. I’m confident I put well over 1000 hours on it myself, many of them would be considered abuse by many here as it was used as a skidder quite a bit. Yes, we got rid of it. Didn’t think I would ever part with it but after my father passed I couldn’t stand looking at it every time I went to the shed. Why isn’t relevant. Next to last time I drove it was on this trailer under its own power. Last time I drove it was off the trailer at its new home. It was running as good as ever and not leaking.

Point being, those who suggest epoxying a patch aren’t suggesting some half-a$$ repair that won’t last. Just something to consider. If it doesn’t work you’re out the cost of some JB Weld so it’s pretty low risk.

Braze it. Weld it. Do whatever you want. Hope it works out for you whatever you do.

Edit: BTW, for anyone actually looking at the photos, I’m aware the hood says Ferguson. It’s off a 35 (I think). Expertly fitted with a sledge hammer. It’s a junkyard hodge podge of a machine. Mostly a 9N, though.
Now I've seen it all, 😒 a crossdressing tractor!
 
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North Idaho Wolfman

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You do know all the other welding that you want to do, BH, Loader Bucket, you don't braze those weld you either use Stick (Arc), MIG, or TIG right?
 
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Oleracer

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What a cluster…. Proves you can lead a horse to water…
🤦‍♂️🤣🤣🤣
 
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joesmith123

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You do know all the other welding that you want to do, BH, Loader Bucket, you don't braze those weld you either use Stick (Arc), MIG, or TIG right?
Yes I am comprehending, forget about welding, get the engine with the hole in it back together

Finally calmed down and looked into it: for about $130, I can get to the point where the engine goes back on the tractor, put all the gears on and even put on the gear case

Main crank bearings, 3 seals for the crankcase, the gear case gasket, 3M epoxy for the patch

These few parts is all I need to get to the point of putting engine back on, all gears, and crankcase

After that: figure out the piston with hardware and all that other stuff

Main goal: do a test run on the engine with the hole in it within a month
 

GreensvilleJay

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re: '3M epoxy'

be sure to buy 'metal epoxy' something like 'JB WELD' metal epoxy. 'metal' epoxy has very,very fine ground steel in it as well as 'epoxy' THAT is why it's so strong and can be machined. While normal 2 part epoxy 'could' be used, spend the extra $5 and get the proper product. After all you probably only want to do this ONCE !
READ the instructions on the package ! Not all 'epoxies' are the same and pay attention to the final ,fully cured time. Most will be 2-3 days...NOT the '5 minutes' that most read on the package. If it says 7 days, give it 2 weeks. Longer is better.

One extra 'trick'. With the patch held in place ( magnet underneath or tape), use a very thin 4.5" grinding disc and make a series(every 1/2" or so ) of light cuts where the patch meets the block, at right angles to the hole. It'll look like sutures a doctor does to mend torn skin. The idea is when you add the metal epoxy, it give more surface for it to bond to.If truly paranoid, you'd undercut these grooves.
The big thing is make sure both areas are super degreased ! Cast iron is like a sponge,so it'll take several cleanings to be sure.
 
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chim

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We used some Labmetal at work for different things and it was pretty impressive. Gets harder then woodpecker lips. Not sure if it would be better than some of the other suggestions, but it is something to look at:

 
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Henro

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No worries!
Joe will..... "figure it out"
And the reality is, he probably will...

Joe actually does things and reports on them. He accepts criticism without taking offense. He doesn’t seem to fire back against those who are critical of his actions.

Granted the results of his efforts remain to be seen.

But I think he exhibits an attitude that we all can learn from...
 
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RCW

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And the reality is, he probably will...

Joe actually does things and reports on them. He accepts criticism without taking offense. He doesn’t seem to fire back against those who are critical of his actions.

Granted the results of his efforts remain to be seen.

But I think he exhibits an attitude that we all can learn from...
Joe's common response is "I'm listening...."

Something to be said for that...... ;)
 
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ken erickson

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And the reality is, he probably will...

Joe actually does things and reports on them. He accepts criticism without taking offense. He doesn’t seem to fire back against those who are critical of his actions.

Granted the results of his efforts remain to be seen.

But I think he exhibits an attitude that we all can learn from...
Very well said Henro!

I did want to add just a bit. I do not quite understand some of the criticism when it comes to Joe "figuring it out" for himself. From my perspective, being self taught, learning new procedures , tools and materials can be very satisfying.
I think it takes a certain amount of "guts" to come here and post his failures and successes and keep forging forward.

If I was to make suggestions here in this thread and Joe Ignored and blew it off and did it his way I would not get upset in the least.

As Henro wrote, "But I think he exhibits an attitude that we all can learn from..."
 
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fried1765

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Very well said Henro!

I did want to add just a bit. I do not quite understand some of the criticism when it comes to Joe "figuring it out" for himself. From my perspective, being self taught, learning new procedures , tools and materials can be very satisfying.
I think it takes a certain amount of "guts" to come here and post his failures and successes and keep forging forward.

If I was to make suggestions here in this thread and Joe Ignored and blew it off and did it his way I would not get upset in the least.

As Henro wrote, "But I think he exhibits an attitude that we all can learn from..."
I am kinda burned out watching Joe chasing his tail.
Think I'll tune in after Christmas...... to see how his engine is running.
 
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joesmith123

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Ordering all the parts to start reassembly

20240829_112751.jpg


Cleaned up shop, removed oven, cinder blocks, all wires off the ground, getting ready to the patch job, doing all the crankcase work, then putting block back onto tractor

20240829_112737.jpg


Studying this area and comparing it to the diagrams, I cannot find the "crank sleeve", later I show you it labeled on the diagram, I looked through the parts, I dont remember it, but overall just studying the area to get the gaskets etc, no big deal

In this picture, the cover is on the crankcase, I do not see part 120 or where it would fit, and that seal (090) fits snug onto the crankshaft

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These two pictures: bearings on the end of crankshaft,

crankshaft from engine without hole in it: bearing does not spin at all (I think this was making that noise when I was showing yall the noise from when i spun the crankshaft)

crankshaft of engine with hole in it: bearing does spin well but has slight noise

Image 8-29-24 at 1.34 PM.jpeg


In this image, you see 110 and 120

110: the bearings I want to change, how do I remove this bearing? I can get GENUINE kubota japanese bearing for $12, I'll order 2 of those, one for each crankshaft

120: the crank sleeve that I dont have, I checked the block to see if it is on there, nope

Next chance I get, put the crankshaft up to that area and see if I do need 120 (I dont remember ever seeing it)

Image 8-29-24 at 1.33 PM.jpeg


Here are the gaskets I am fixing to get to seal up the crankcase: 040, 60, and that rubber seal 090

Image 8-29-24 at 1.49 PM.jpeg


Here are the main bearings, what I need:

3 orders of 220
2 orders of 230
2 orders of 240

That covers all crankcase bearings, and the thrust bearings

Summary: reread what yall said about the 3m epoxy and go get it, get main bearings, and crankcase gaskets, do not worry about steps further down the line

I did this and realized yesterday to only look at the steps in front of me

Plan: order all the parts that I just showed yall, while those parts are coming, make the patch fit better, get the 3m epoxy that yall said, and do a PROFESSIONAL diy patch job, treating it like a weld with super clean metal

(if yall want to know how to get kubota parts for 1/3 the cost of messick, let me know and I can elaborate)

Image 8-29-24 at 2.40 PM.jpeg


Here are the exact parts I ordered, I added on the gear case gasket just to get the the free shipping

Their prices are way better than messick

Image 8-29-24 at 2.34 PM.jpeg


Here is the gearcase of how it goes on, I did get part 100, and I know later I will need some of these o rings and whatever else

Dont move to fast, dont look to far ahead, focus on the what is in front of you...

He doesn’t seem to fire back against those who are critical of his actions.
If i fired back every time someone said something not true or misleading, wolf would KICK ME OUT INSTANTLY and never be welcome back because:

ALL i would be doing is "firing back" and not making ANY progress on the goals, meaning

If i fired back at anyone here, I would need to be removed, because the mods know that I know better than to do that, and would need be punished for being incorrect

Now: go find that 3M epoxy like someone said the metal kind, and we go back to the shop, grind down the block, fit it in better, then do the epoxy job...
 

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Moose7060

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As Brahm Stroker said
“We learn from failure, not from success!”
 
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Runs With Scissors

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As Brahm Stroker said
“We learn from failure, not from success!, unless you are talking about using pressurized gasoline to clean things....then no, you wont learn shit, you will just die......

Moose, you had a small error/omission, but don't worry brother, I got your back and fixed it for ya! 🍸 🍸 🍸 🍸
 
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Henro

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I am kinda burned out watching Joe chasing his tail.
Think I'll tune in after Christmas...... to see how his engine is running.
I say this partially in jest… But maybe if you grow a tail, you might think differently!

Something I would say to my friends, so I hope you don’t take offense! 🤣

Life is too short not to have fun joking around with people…😉

Good to see your optimistic side. Myself I would have guesstimated late spring at the earliest. That’s using my personal clock though….
 
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Henro

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Moose, you had a small error/omission, but don't worry brother, I got your back and fixed it for ya! 🍸 🍸 🍸 🍸
Point well taken. But if you read the thread from the beginning it appears Joe started using diesel in place of gasoline for cleaning as the result of comments/concerns voiced here. Probably an order of magnitude safer…but still…
 
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fried1765

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Point well taken. But if you read the thread from the beginning it appears Joe started using diesel in place of gasoline for cleaning as the result of comments/concerns voiced here. Probably an order of magnitude safer…but still…
Fear not!
Joe, "will figure it out'
 
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joesmith123

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Installed patch with jb weld

20240829_162306.jpg
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Used file to hit engine block hard making indentations

Cleaned everything with alcohol

Setup the area to do the weld

Mentally planned it out

Then applied the weld using brush and small spatula with gloves on

Being careful not to move it, applied generous amounts on top and bottom

Came back with paper towels to clean areas that splattered

Next step: let it cure, hit it with slow moving hard wire wheel smoothing it out

Apply the paint can in the picture you saw

Later on, disassemble crankcase, hit the stuck on gasket with nylon stripping pad

Hit all crankcase pieces and crankshaft with soft wire wheel

Get it ready to install new bearings
 
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