Fixing hole in side of block

[joesmith123]

hole in the side of block of D1301 on L295

took off the head

this is a picture facing up, I removed many 14 mm bolts including the two hard to reach above the differential

Under the oil pan from the other side of tractor, you can see I took out all the 14 mm bolts

There are total 4 17 mm bolts facing the oil pan from the front axle, I removed those as well on both sides

In this picture, you can see the differential shaft is blocking the oil pan from dropping

What is the next proper step to getting the oil pan removed? I took out that one bolt that attaches the differential to the oil pan

I removed the two bolts that hold the rear of the differential to the rear axle, but still the shaft would not drop

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

You need to slide the front half (RED) of the propeller shaft cover backward over the rear section (BLUE) and then slide the coupling rearward to disengage it from the front end (Yellow).

 

[joesmith123]

You need to slide the front half (RED) of the propeller shaft cover backward over the rear section (BLUE) and then slide the coupling rearward to disengage it from the front end (Yellow).

View attachment 128791

Yes I am comprehending

I watched these videos twice, that tractor is pretty much the same, I will copy what he does to get the tractor fixed

 

[joesmith123]

Ok I figured it out

I hit with hammer, uncovered the spindle

now I go spray diesel, and remove lock spring

wasp nest

 

[joesmith123]

I have the chisel striking the direction of the big arrow, attempting to move it toward the rear axle (small arrow), it is not budging

I hit with torch and diesel, not moving

Should I be striking the opposite direction, attempting to move that union forward toward front of tractor?

I back now and hit it harder with torch, hammers, chisels, etc

yes I removed it, hit it hard with torch, then spray ton of diesel, then sledge hammer without chisel, worked perfectly

Removed shaft

 

[jaxs]

I don't envy your shop floor for doing teardown like this.

 

[joesmith123]

top end: cannot remove pulley because frame blocking it

What do I have to do to move forward?

Oil pan: all bolts removed and shaft out the way, pan won’t budge, hit it with diesel and 5 minutes of torch, chiseled edges, did not move

please let me know the proper next steps, appreciated

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

You need to remove the front axle and support.
It wedges the oil pan, and the oil pan will not come off without removing it.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

WOW, gotta give him 'A+' for effort and doing it right....
...me, I'd have done the backyard 'drywall' bodge and back in the field in 24hrs.

 

[joesmith123]

WOW, gotta give him 'A+' for effort and doing it right....
...me, I'd have done the backyard 'drywall' bodge and back in the field in 24hrs.

there is no other way to get to the damaged area

from what I am understanding

How else am I to service the bottom end without removing the oil pan?

I did not want to remove all of those components but I cannot get the oil pan out of the way

I took off wheels, steering link, both knuckles, now I am stuck, hard to reach bolts

In the video, where he removes the front axle, it appears that he strikes here in order to get a shaft out of the front of the tractor

here is the front of the tractor where that shaft comes out, then he removes front axle assembly

I cannot tell how he removed it, and I dont think the one he is working on is 4wd, this one is 4wd

Also i did see in the diagram it shows these long bolts could be holding that front assembly to the block

In the video, he removes that front axle assembly, then he takes off the huge front bracket/structure

I will go try now

Removed front axle

ok now I figure out front bracket

 

[skeets]

Ahh JB weld will fix that

 

[D2Cat]

I haven't followed your entire process. Is your goal to remove the engine to replace it?

If so, be careful when unbolting the engine from the transmission. The engine can and will flop to one side or the other. Usually you can put wood wedges on both lower sides if the block to keep in in place, but you may have it so stripped down there is nothing to hold the wedges. Then you'd need something above the engine to stabilize it for safety.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I haven't followed your entire process. Is your goal to remove the engine to replace it?

If so, be careful when unbolting the engine from the transmission. The engine can and will flop to one side or the other. Usually you can put wood wedges on both lower sides if the block to keep in in place, but you may have it so stripped down there is nothing to hold the wedges. Then you'd need something above the engine to stabilize it for safety.

D2Cat, not on that model, you have to remove the front axle as that model had a cast section and no front frame at all.

 

[joesmith123]

I got to the damaged area

Oil pan filled with finger piercing metal shards

broken bearing and the clamp that goes around it, came out of the oil pan

These also came out of the oil pan when oil pan fell, piece of the block, and the bolt that holds the piston

looking up into the engine

Ok here is a video, facing up, while I rotated crank shaft

Can we tell if the crankshaft is damaged and will need to be removed from looking at the damaged area?

Meaning, if I spin the engine, and the spin feels smooth, does that tell us that the crankshaft is fine, and will not need to come out?

Let me know the exact procedure to fix this issue and make sure the other pistons do not have the same problem

What are the exact parts I need to make sure the entire bottom end is proper and will last for a long time?

 

[jiggseob]

Wow... I thought my shop space was low-tec h, yours looks like fun.

I just did main / rod bearings, crankshaft, etc on my L3130 HST. What I see there is a "thrown" rod. That will very probably have scored a crankpin journal on the crankshaft. That crankshaft must be removed to have that damaged crankpin and probably all other main and crankpin journals ground and poilished.

If you find that the crankshaft is not damaged (you have horseshoes up your @$$ but thats another story), and you can replace the connecting rod and piston, and leave the crankshaft in place, then you do not have to split the tractor. JB-weld will plug that hole in the block and hold the oil in.

To get the crank out, you have to separate the engine from the back of the tractor at the back of the bellhousing. That means support the rear half under the transmission, probably with blocks and a hydraulic jack. Support the front half, with two vertical pieces of sturdy steel such as 2" angle iron or square tubing that hold the front half up when its pulled away from the rear.

Rather than "splitting", you can remove the front half of the tractor piece by piece, first radiator, then front diff, then frame, at which point you are left with engine hanging on the rear. Un-bolt rear of bellhousing from transmission to separate engine.

Once you have access to rear of engine, either by splitting or disassembling, remove the clutch, flywheel, and bellhousing, then when you have access to the back of the block, you can take the crank out after removing pistons and connecting rods.

 

[joesmith123]

If you find that the crankshaft is not damaged (you have horseshoes up your @$$ but thats another story), and you can replace the connecting rod and piston, and leave the crankshaft in place, then you do not have to split the tractor.

I will look into the damage on the crankshaft, I would prefer not to split the tractor

Rather than "splitting", you can remove the front half of the tractor piece by piece, first radiator, then front diff, then frame, at which point you are left with engine hanging on the rear. Un-bolt rear of bellhousing from transmission to separate engine.

This pretty much describes what happened today. My main goal was to remove oil pan, had to take off propeller shaft, entire front differential, steering, frame piece, just to get to the last two bolts holding the oil pan. It took 10 hours to do these tasks

I am thinking now about which direction to take

then when you have access to the back of the block, you can take the crank out after removing pistons and connecting rods.

Yes, it would be another whole day of labor to separate the block from the bell housing

Plan in my head at this point, yall feel free to critique:

Replace all the moving parts on the bottom end but keep the main parts that would require machine shop

My understanding: the parts that deteriorate and break down are replaceable, but the parts that are honed and machined for that specific block, do not need to be replaced and should not be replaced because:

if you replace the piston head, then you also need the block to be modified

Same goes for the connecting rod: that rod is specific to that block, and should not be replaced

I want to replace: all the bottom area, new bolts, connecting rod bearing for all the pistons, and whatever else yall instruct me to

Do yall recommend to put in new piston rings? I think yes

Plan with the block: the plan is to learn how to use acetylene torch to braze a patch that is rigid, permanent, better than JB weld

I might salvage the pieces of the broken block, or

Use torches/hammers to shape a piece of metal the same as the hole in the block, then braze that onto the block

I will not braze on the block until I am comfortable brazing, I will practice on scrap until I figure it out

Summary: figure out the bottom area to secure all the pistons perfectly, then seal up the block after I learn acetylene torch

 

[PaulL]

This job is way beyond my skills. All I have to offer is - wow. Well done. I look forward to seeing it progress.

 

[joesmith123]

This job is way beyond my skills. All I have to offer is - wow. Well done. I look forward to seeing it progress.

Its not as complicated as people make it out to be,

watch the video, the guys rips the entire engine apart

Many of the bolts are repetitive,

I dont know about newer ones, but the older ones are made to be fixed

If you find that the crankshaft is not damaged (you have horseshoes up your @$$ but thats another story), and you can replace the connecting rod and piston, and leave the crankshaft in place, then you do not have to split the tractor. JB-weld will plug that hole in the block and hold the oil in.

soon I will get under the engine, and start to loosen up those connecting rods and try understand the area

According to jiggseob, one can change the piston, the piston rings, the connecting rods, WITHOUT removing the huge crankshaft

Someone did say that the failure happened due to failed "connecting rod bearings"

I will take it apart, and see if one can change the connecting rod bearings without taking out the crankshaft, I am guessing no

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

if you replace the piston head, then you also need the block to be modified

Same goes for the connecting rod: that rod is specific to that block, and should not be replaced

No not true, the head can be swapped without changing the block.
The rods are not specific to the block, the only requirement is that the rod and rod cap need to stay matched and in the right orientation and installed in the block in the proper direction.

I want to replace: all the bottom area, new bolts, connecting rod bearing for all the pistons, and whatever else yall instruct me to

Do yall recommend to put in new piston rings? I think yes

You're not going to be able to easily or cheaply get new bolts.
used bolts are still tough to get.
You are going to need at minimum a new (used) connecting rod and cap, and 2 connecting rod bolts.
and rod bearings.
You can't do any of the mains with the engine in the tractor.
You can do rings, but if there is too much wear you will either need to have the sleeves replaced or hone the block and use oversized pistons and rings.
HUGE gamble that the mains are not damaged or that the rod journal (that threw the rod) will be in good enough shape to even accept a bearing, let alone run it without failure.

Plan with the block: the plan is to learn how to use acetylene torch to braze a patch that is rigid, permanent, better than JB weld

I might salvage the pieces of the broken block, or

Use torches/hammers to shape a piece of metal the same as the hole in the block, then braze that onto the block

I will not braze on the block until I am comfortable brazing, I will practice on scrap until I figure it out

Summary: figure out the bottom area to secure all the pistons perfectly, then seal up the block after I learn acetylene torch

Forget Acetylene, use a mig welder with nickel wire.

 

[D2Cat]

D2Cat, not on that model, you have to remove the front axle as that model had a cast section and no front frame at all.

That makes sense to the reason he has it so dis- assembled!!