Hey Joe, this is going to go on and on with your welts breaking, till you get a MIG or arc welder you can get Harbor freight cheapest for around $125 plus a helmet and you’ll do much better, much stronger. Watch a YouTube on welding.
You have to remember, this project is not about doing it correctly or quickly..... it's a version of Saturday Night Live for OTT. It's pure entertainment. Only come to this thread when you're bored.Hey Joe, this is going to go on and on with your welts breaking, till you get a MIG or arc welder you can get Harbor freight cheapest for around $125 plus a helmet and you’ll do much better, much stronger. Watch a YouTube on welding.
The above is the only possible reason that this thread keeps going.You have to remember, this project is not about doing it correctly or quickly..... it's a version of Saturday Night Live for OTT. It's pure entertainment. Only come to this thread when you're bored.
I think he mentioned somewhere that he does not have mains electricity. But an engine driven mobile welder should work.Hey Joe, this is going to go on and on with your welts breaking, till you get a MIG or arc welder you can get Harbor freight cheapest for around $125 plus a helmet and you’ll do much better, much stronger.
Pretty sure this is a stage 4 case of "previous owner syndrome" anyway.Somewhere down the road these problem areas are gonna be a real mess to repair properly. Or if you call someone they'll say "Ain't no way I'll try to fix that."
No, you are not wrong. Don't you remember overheating brazing flux and it impleaded the flow? And that was for brazing....It has been a few years, maybe 15, since I have done brazing or O/A welding. I don't recall using brazing flux for steel welding. Just the properly set neutral flame. Am I wrong?
Ridiculously expensive, but made for this job. I have not tried it but I’m sure I will someday. Maybe glue it in with JB and tack it with Crown Royal:No not true, the head can be swapped without changing the block.
The rods are not specific to the block, the only requirement is that the rod and rod cap need to stay matched and in the right orientation and installed in the block in the proper direction.
You're not going to be able to easily or cheaply get new bolts.
used bolts are still tough to get.
You are going to need at minimum a new (used) connecting rod and cap, and 2 connecting rod bolts.
and rod bearings.
You can't do any of the mains with the engine in the tractor.
You can do rings, but if there is too much wear you will either need to have the sleeves replaced or hone the block and use oversized pistons and rings.
HUGE gamble that the mains are not damaged or that the rod journal (that threw the rod) will be in good enough shape to even accept a bearing, let alone run it without failure.
Forget Acetylene, use a mig welder with nickel wire.