Dual rear remotes on my B2650

[rkidd]

When I helped my Kubota dealer doing the site work for his new building, we traded out the work as I stated in my post on doing the site work. Adding dual rear remotes and running lines up to the front bucket with quick couplers to run off one of the remotes as well was always my plan. I just completed the dual rear remote installation, and the hoses are all made to run up front, just waiting on materials to install the lines running up front and will post that later. I had done alot of research on this and the other site as far as location and set up. I ordered the valve assembly and set out on making the mounting brackets. It worked out so I could mount the quick couplers right in the valve assembly and mount it back far enough to have good access. I used 1/4" steel plate and welded an L shape and mounted it to the seat support. The factory set up for the levers goes up the right fender up through where there is a storage pocket that I didnt want to lose. So I fabbed up the control levers to come up between the seat and right fender which worked out great for me.


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[rkidd]

After I had everything mounted, I just hauled my tractor out to the dealers to make up all the lines to tie it all together. Kubota makes an adapter steel line to tie back in to the 3pt valve from the new spool valve assembly with the new hydraulic line which worked out good. Then measured out and made all of the other lines including the ones to go up front.

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[rkidd]

One of the hoses came down by the axle to be able to sweep back to where it needed to go. There were 4 bolt holes on the end of the axle housing, so I used the top 2 and fabbed up a guard out of 1/4" steel to protect the hose.

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[rkidd]

I had made the control levers out of 1/8" steel one inch wide. I got on line and actually found vinyl caps that fit perfect to make them comfortable and a nice looking product. Everything came out really good and just the way I wanted it. There were a couple trial and error moments like after I welded the mounting bracket, drilled all the holes, checked it with the seat down, had it all mounted, then remembered the seat was not all of the way back!! Damn, had to cut that apart and start over. I attribute that to just getting older I guess. The best part is that I have about $750.00 in the whole set up and that is the lines running up front also acting as my third function for a grapple or what ever plus it was a fun project. In the future if I end up doing alot of grapple work, I have plans to use a shaft and some bearings and have a lever run over for my left hand behind the seat and then up, off the same remote to be able to run the bucket at the same time if neccasary.


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[William1]

Nice job!

Do you find it easy to operate the two levers independently with them so close (it appears) together?

 

[rkidd]

Nice job!

Do you find it easy to operate the two levers independently with them so close (it appears) together?

Thanks for the comment William. The levers are fairly close together. I have no problem sitting in the seat and grabbing either lever. They move really smooth and dont require alot of effort. I have ample room to spread them apart over an inch if I ever wanted too though. As I said I am very happy with the way it turned out, but it is amazing how fast you run out of space in those areas with valves, levers, and hoses!!!

 

[rkidd]

I decided on a top link cylinder and some mounting brackets to run my hoses along the loader up to the front. I found everything at Surplus Center. Should be here in a few days. Looking forward to keeping this project moving forward. Will post some pics of the progress.

 

[rkidd]

To follow up on my rear remote project, I did get my top link cylinder and hose brackets from Surplus Center for myself for Christmas!! Saves my wife from having to worry about what to get me! Haha. It was really the only top link cylinder I could find with the right collapsed length and cylinder stroke. I did have to grind a heavy 1/8" off base end and rod end swivels to get them to fit to the tractor and implements. I also mounted it up side down as the lock valve adds some height to the cylinder, and didnt want to take a chance of hitting the rops when folded down. Mounting it this way worked out good, and have good clearance on everything even when all the way down. After mounting the cylinder, I got the measurements for the hoses for the top link cylinder. Ran out to the Kubota dealers and had them made up. Looking from the back, the left valve runs the top link cylinder, and the right side now runs the hydraulics for the front grapple or snow blade or what ever. The right side will also run the tilt cylinder when I get one this spring for all of my box blade work.


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[rkidd]

For running the hoses up front, I came out with 90 degree quick couplers and ran up by the loader valve and the steel lines running up front from the loader valve. I wanted to put quick couplers up by the loader to be able to detach the loader, and the best place was under the right floor board up by the loader. I fabbed and welded up a bracket that bolted to the floor board, and used one of the new hose brackets I had bought. The hose bracket base welds to my bracket and then secures the hoses. A really nice set up. We had pre made both sets of hoses running up front, and the back set ended up being about 8" too long and no where to loose the extra length. So back out to the dealers to cut them off and crimp on some new ends. A couple extra bucks, but didnt want to start doing it halfway now.


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[rkidd]

After I got everything hooked up, and air bleed out, everything works great and no leaks. Top link cylinder will cycle my 700lb ballast box at just off idle no problem. Just have to run the front set of hoses up to the bracket by the front bucket, probably next week and the project will be completed.

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[Yooper]

Very clean and professional! I really like your idea using the hose clamp to hold the quick connects. Might want to copycat that one!

 

[rkidd]

Very clean and professional! I really like your idea using the hose clamp to hold the quick connects. Might want to copycat that one!

Hey Yooper. Merry Christmas. Haven't talked to you for a while. Good to hear from you and thanks for the comments! The hose clamps were like $3.79 each. Very reasonable. Copycat away. I have 3 more to run the front pair of hoses up the loader arm to the front bracket. I will post those pics when I get it figured out and done.

 

[Yooper]

Thank you and Happy New Year! Glad to see you are having fun in the man cave.

 

[rkidd]

After my daughter, son in law, and grandkids came for Christmas, and passed there cold to me, I finally felt good enough to finish up my project and run the hydraulic lines up the loader arms to the front cross member. I bought 3 hose brackets to weld on the loader arm and secure the hoses to the loader arm, but I didnt like how far they stuck out. So ended up welding the clamping bolt to the loader arm and just using the top half of the bracket to secure the lines flat on the loader arm. Gave me a nice tight fit right to the arm, and worked out really well. Finally got the project all done. Very happy with the results. Now I have to buy a grapple or something to be able to use the front hydraulics!!

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[rkidd]

Pic of the quick coupler connection tying in to the lines I had already ran under the right floor board. Far enough from the loader couplers, and easy to get to, and tucked up out of the way.


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[rkidd]

I bought the factory Kubota mounting bracket to hold the hoses on the loader cross member. I had to fab up a bracket to hold the couplers tight in the bracket. Completed the install with rubber plugs for the couplers. Final piece of the puzzle.

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[eipo]

kidd...

If you get a chance, could you look up the part number for the valve you used as well as close ups of the hydraulic connections on the tractor?

I assume you're using the float spool on the top link?

 

[rkidd]

kidd...

If you get a chance, could you look up the part number for the valve you used as well as close ups of the hydraulic connections on the tractor?

I assume you're using the float spool on the top link?

Hey Eipo. The spool valves I used from Surplus Center is 9-7862-F. It is a double spool valve with one having a float. To tie into the new valve, you need to feed it from the loader valve from the power beyond port which feeds the 3 point. You have to remove the existing steel line that goes from loader valve to the 3 pt. Kubota makes the adapters to tie back into. They make a new tube that goes from the 3pt that you go to from power beyond from new valve. The other adapter is just a fitting that goes into the loader valve power beyond port that feeds the pressure port on the new spool valves. That is the one that has the 90 degree fitting going to it in the bottom pic of my post #2. In that same pic you can see the new tube that goes to the 3pt. The part numbers for those are 7j056-84432 and 7j056-84300. For the return from the new valve, I tee'd into the return line from the loader valve to the transmission. I will get some more pics later. Hope this helps.

 

[rkidd]

I just remember I had some pics on my computer. The one of the valve has the c port (power beyond) going to the 3pt, the t port is the return that is tee'd into the loader return and the one you can just see is the pressure port coming from the power beyond from the loader valve. Another pic of the adapter tube, and one of the tee for the return.

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[eipo]

Thank you.