Don't buy a bigger tractor than you need.

Yotekiller

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Equipment
Kubota L2502, LP 60" BB, LP pallet forks, 60" KK Tiller, 55" HSI root grapple
Sep 29, 2023
459
573
93
Southern Indiana
A small machine on anything over 10 acres isn’t much fun, no matter what your uses.
I will have to disagree. I think your uses dictate the tractor you need, not the size of your property. I have well over 10 acres and my 2502 does everything I need it to do. I don't mow with it but do till deer plots and a large yearly garden and it handles those fine. It brings huge trees out of the woods with the grapple, it moves massive amounts of brush at a time, it dug a 30x50' hole for our swimming pool, it clears several hundred feet of blacktop driveway with no issues. I made a trail through a certain section of my woods that was steep hills and most guys would have never even attempted with their tractor, The 2502 was stable and did it perfectly.
But with that said, there are times I think about a MX series, I just hate the emissions. But some day I may buy an MX and delete it. I would like to have the extra lifting capacity but I have some giant logs still to deal with.
 
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airbiscuit

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Equipment
New Holland T2310, New Holland TC21D, Kubota l3010 GST, Farmall H
Mar 18, 2021
291
276
63
NW WI
I will have to disagree. I think your uses dictate the tractor you need, not the size of your property. I have well over 10 acres and my 2502 does everything I need it to do. I don't mow with it but do till deer plots and a large yearly garden and it handles those fine. It brings huge trees out of the woods with the grapple, it moves massive amounts of brush at a time, it dug a 30x50' hole for our swimming pool, it clears several hundred feet of blacktop driveway with no issues. I made a trail through a certain section of my woods that was steep hills and most guys would have never even attempted with their tractor, The 2502 was stable and did it perfectly.
But with that said, there are times I think about a MX series, I just hate the emissions. But some day I may buy an MX and delete it. I would like to have the extra lifting capacity but I have some giant logs still to deal with.
Your L2502 is 2 frame sizes up from a BX series. I think you would be less happy doing your tasks with a BX.
 
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Yotekiller

Well-known member

Equipment
Kubota L2502, LP 60" BB, LP pallet forks, 60" KK Tiller, 55" HSI root grapple
Sep 29, 2023
459
573
93
Southern Indiana
Your L2502 is 2 frame sizes up from a BX series. I think you would be less happy doing your tasks with a BX.

That's why I said choose the tractor for your intended use, not amount of acres. I put in months of research on what I "needed" at a minimum to accomplish my tasks. The L series fit the bill because it was more about tractor weight and lift capacity for me and not about HP. If my land was all field and I was mowing it, the L series would not have been chosen.
 
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GreensvilleJay

Well-known member

Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
Apr 2, 2019
12,731
5,524
113
Greensville,Ontario,Canada
Heck I don't 'need' my BX23S but my neighbours sure KNOW I do !!!
I can just get the D-14/tiller between the garage and deck.just, and that's with some serious 'armstrong exercises'.

I agree tractor should be bought based upon ACTUAL requirements of what it's supposed to do.Seriously doubt a picture framer uses a sledge hammer in his workshop...
 
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Hammarhead

Member

Equipment
L2501
Apr 24, 2022
19
45
13
Ohio
meh. Any compact tractor is a joy to use. That said, I see way more comments from people wishing they bought bigger for their first tractor, than wishing they bought smaller.

Here is my rule of thumb +

View attachment 147600

It's funny how the perception regarding equipment sizing changes over time. I found this early Gravely ad interesting. I wonder how many people would agree with their point of view in 2025?
 

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nyawkpat

New member

Equipment
Hauling digginh
Feb 12, 2025
1
0
1
Westkill@518
Hi folks,I I'm a new member here.
My wife and I of a house on 16 acres of mostly hardwood on a mountainside at about 2200 ft. Our driveway is approximately 600 ft curving back and forth through the woods.
My wife enjoys gardening but digging through the hard pan and stone is torturously difficult. I would also like to get in to the woods more and harvest wood for our wood stoves.

I have considered looking for a used tractor (preferably diesel) that has capabilities for snow removal,hauling harvested firewood as well as excavating.(We have a 20 HP Craftsman tractor mower for lawn cutting which is pretty much useless for anything else.
I have a pretty limited budget so new is out of the question.
Thus I certainly would consider used however I'm apprehensive about where to look for something that doesn't turn out to be a money pit.
Thanks for any suggestions.
 

nbryan

Well-known member

Equipment
B2650 BH77 LA534 54" ssqa Forks B2782B BB1560 Woods M5-4 MaxxHaul 50039
Jan 3, 2019
1,284
817
113
Hadashville, Manitoba, Canada
Hi folks,I I'm a new member here.
My wife and I of a house on 16 acres of mostly hardwood on a mountainside at about 2200 ft. Our driveway is approximately 600 ft curving back and forth through the woods.
My wife enjoys gardening but digging through the hard pan and stone is torturously difficult. I would also like to get in to the woods more and harvest wood for our wood stoves.

I have considered looking for a used tractor (preferably diesel) that has capabilities for snow removal,hauling harvested firewood as well as excavating.(We have a 20 HP Craftsman tractor mower for lawn cutting which is pretty much useless for anything else.
I have a pretty limited budget so new is out of the question.
Thus I certainly would consider used however I'm apprehensive about where to look for something that doesn't turn out to be a money pit.
Thanks for any suggestions.
Anything not a "money pit" , with new pricing being out of the question, good luck with that!

It took me a couple of years constantly shopping used to realize that a Kubota with the attachments or implements that I needed was nearly the same price of new. They're incredibly good at holding their value.

So for a used quality manufactured CUT that's in good shape, been well maintained, and has what you need? You almost always spend nearly what a new unit costs. Or are very lucky.
 

BobInSD

Active member

Equipment
L5740
Jun 23, 2020
367
123
43
South Dakota
It's funny how the perception regarding equipment sizing changes over time. I found this early Gravely ad interesting. I wonder how many people would agree with their point of view in 2025?
I actually used a Gravely L to “maintain” about 10 acres 20 or so years ago. It worked, but it wasn’t pretty. I have had real tractors since then, but still use the gravely for certain tasks. I enjoy using it and enjoy using the Kubota. The gravely was my dad’s so there’s some nostalgia there also.

I sometimes wonder if I went too big w/ my Grande L, but I already had some
Cat II implements & didn’t want to have to rebuy those. I really appreciate the weight and the HST when trying to blow heavy, deep snow though.
 
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bird dogger

Well-known member
Vendor Member

Equipment
Kubota B2650 and lots of other equipment
Feb 24, 2019
1,669
1,572
113
North Dakota
My Grandpa said he was in "Hog Heaven" when he replaced his horses with an IH "A" to farm their 160 acre homestead in the earlier 1900's. Less than 20 HP and it didn't try kick him, either!! :LOL:
 
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BX25D Rookie

Active member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
2011 BX 25LB-R (dirt work, snow, and brush hogging) & 2013 BX 2370 (mowing lawn)
Mar 21, 2019
166
164
43
upstate, NY USA
I have two locations separated by about 30 minutes driving time distance where I do tractor tasks.

My home has a ~ 1 acre lot. If you subtract the area of the house, driveway, and Morton Building type barn storage/shop building, it's maybe 2/3 of an acre. You don't really need much in the way of a tractor for mowing lawn and tractor tasks at the house. Anything larger than a BX is wasteful at the house.

My second property is ~ 69 acres. Of the 69 acres in total, 61 acres is forest, and all of the 61 forested acres are enrolled in the New York State 480a Forestry Tax Law program. The 480a program has strict regulations clearly specifying what you can do on the enrolled acreage, and what you cannot do. The goal of the 480a program is to encourage responsible/sustainable timber growth. Some examples of things not allowed, building/cutting new roads in the enrolled forest, erecting buildings on the enrolled acreage, building ponds on the enrolled acreage, unscheduled timber harvests on the enrolled acreage.

The previous owner of my piece of property enrolled the place in the 480a program long before I purchased it. Once a piece of property is enrolled in the 480a program, it stays in the program even after the property sells to another owner. I knew the property was enrolled in the 480a program when I purchased it. The "only" way to remove a property previously enrolled in the 480a program, is to pay back ALL tax breaks received since the beginning of time when the property was initially enrolled in the 480a program, and some penalties.

So next is the why. The enrolled timber acreage has a significant reduction in property taxes.
94% reduction to be exact. At some point in the future, my contract Forester, and my state Forester
will tell me, it's time for a timber harvest, your maple & cherry trees in the hardwood sections in the forest are mature. At that pre-scheduled harvest moment in time, 6% of the total value of the pre-scheduled timber harvest will be distributed to the local town &county municipalities in leu of the massive tax breaks that I have received over more than 20 years. The large mature hemlock trees on the 61 enrolled acres have been ready for harvest for a long time, but no loggers will come in and harvest the mature hemlock trees without maple/cherry being harvested at the same time. So the hemlock trees just continue growing.

Now back to tractors. If you subtract the forested enrolled acreage from the total, about 8 acres remain.
At the non house recreational property, I have a 1.5 to 2.0 acre field that I mow with a finish mower.
The field surrounds the cabin which we use as base camp during hunting season, and weekend getaways where we hunt/hike/play/ATV/SxS or even do some light bush hog/food plot activities.

Down in the center of the property there is a "field" surrounded by the enrolled forest where we have a mobile heated hunting shack set up and multiple ladder stands surrounding the food plot area.

That interior field is about 2 acres. Subtract the cabin field from the total, and the interior field,
and now you are down to around 4 acres. I have a 4 acre brush lot near the public road, below the cabin
and we don't do anything with it. It has many old farm apple trees, heavy brush, and holds deer.
Having the recreational property enrolled in the 480a program, consider it like owning your own personal "State Park" that you do not have to pay for out of your own personal wallet.

So I actually only use tractors on about 4 acres of the 69 total.
Owning the property is practically free, as the property tax is so low.
If the recreational property was not in the 480a program, I likely could not afford keeping it during retirement.

My primary concern with owning the property was the ability to get tractors to the location and doing projects. It's quite hilly/mountainous as far as the roads between the house and recreational property even though they are both within about 100' in actual elevation. I would love a Kubota L2502 or perhaps slightly larger, but the reality is, a pair of Kubota BX tractors will do everything that I need done at both of my properties. And the BX machines are ever so much easier to haul to the recreational property and back. If I got a L2502, I would be in the same situation as Forum Member McMXi and spending vast sums of money on larger trailers and tow vehicles.
 

Wooddog63

New member

Equipment
In the plan- MX 6000
Mar 31, 2025
18
20
3
62
NJ - NY adirondacks
Always great info here- a newbie who just priced a MX 6000 and starting to educate myself on learning the terms of valve functions and uses for my end goal.
I bought 8 acres of pines in the Adirondacks NY with a 6-8% slope and started to build a hand scribed log cabin and now entering my 4th year. My first piece of equipment was my daughters college and masters and now my turn. I’ve mastered the block and tackle and zip line cable systems but it’s time to get in the millennium.
I ran thru many hours of videos to conclude a tractor was really the best purchase for me in this new construction utility stage of the build project. As the gentleman above mentioned the upstate NY region has mountains and many hills.
I knew an L series would work and was priced affordable and I had seen many videos on folks doing grapple work clearing land with every size kubota tractor. As a carpenter, I’m a list guy so I made a list of tasks, site logistics and future use. Lifting with a stable wide machine was a immediate priority which the MX pulled me up to the go big or stay home program.
So I went to the dealer for a physical walk around and test drive, still in the L series mind set but curious on the MX.
One of the issues I was being concerned with was my physical abilities to get on and off the tractor all day. I have a plastic cup in my shoe for heel spurs, two titanium knee replacements, torn right shoulder, tenon damage in right elbow , nerve damage in my right primary hand from a fist fight with two mastiffs, left hearing loss from running shapers, bad eyes, arthritis but still in motion as I just turned 62.
The MX allowed me to get on and off the machine with plenty of room with no transmission hump and felt comfortable for my beat up chassis to operate in.
The models with tilt steering may accommodate that maneuver but to make that motion or twist to get out and step down seem weary over time.
So my mind and body settled it - MX with rear spacers and turned out hubs, filled tires for extra stability won me over.
I pulled $12 G off the price wish list as the dealer was thorough and priced my list with a land pride grapple. This was pricey and many cheaper options out there but I then added the top and tilt and rear remotes cost on which I’m waiting for that cost upgrade. That TnT video was a find and funny I’m wrestling 800lb logs and worry about manually hooking up an attachment.
One thing that surprised me with the heavy duty praise on tractor implements was the lack of true dump trailer ruggedness for the compact series market.
I have a lot of field stone to move for building a sauna, fireplaces and exterior wall bump outs. After poking around on what you bigger guys use I found Berkleman Weldings 3 ton dump series which when I inquired about if hh could manufacture a stake bed he quickly produced model photographed attached. 3/16 bed, electric brakes , removable front, hydraulic dump body.
we are all trying to squeeze 8 cents from a nickle right now and the price we pay for would of, could of and should I think is worth it.
Here’s some pics- first I’m building 450 sq ft LeBron with glass and then bigger 1200 sq ft cabin
 

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McMXi

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
***Current*** M6060HDC, MX6000HSTC & GL7000 ***Sold*** MX6000HST & BX25DLB
Feb 9, 2021
6,228
7,847
113
Montana
One thing that surprised me with the heavy duty praise on tractor implements was the lack of true dump trailer ruggedness for the compact series market.
I have a lot of field stone to move for building a sauna, fireplaces and exterior wall bump outs. After poking around on what you bigger guys use I found Berkleman Weldings 3 ton dump series which when I inquired about if hh could manufacture a stake bed he quickly produced model photographed attached. 3/16 bed, electric brakes , removable front, hydraulic dump body.
A Berkelmans Welding dump trailer is on my wish list too. They have an excellent reputation. The MX6000 is rated for around a 10,000lb trailer weight so out of interest why not the 4 ton model?

I have two dump trailers, but they're not designed to be pulled by a tractor. The short A-frame tongues want to collide with the lower links in tight turns. Currently I'm using the M-1078 to pull the 16ft dump trailer around and that works, but a dedicated dump trailer for the tractors would be great. If I didn't have the M-1078 I would have probably ordered a 4 or 6 ton model from BW. Now that tariffs are taking effect I'm in no hurry.
 

Wooddog63

New member

Equipment
In the plan- MX 6000
Mar 31, 2025
18
20
3
62
NJ - NY adirondacks
A Berkelmans Welding dump trailer is on my wish list too. They have an excellent reputation. The MX6000 is rated for around a 10,000lb trailer weight so out of interest why not the 4 ton model?

I have two dump trailers, but they're not designed to be pulled by a tractor. The short A-frame tongues want to collide with the lower links in tight turns. Currently I'm using the M-1078 to pull the 16ft dump trailer around and that works, but a dedicated dump trailer for the tractors would be great. If I didn't have the M-1078 I would have probably ordered a 4 or 6 ton model from BW. Now that tariffs are taking effect I'm in no hurry.
I thought the Lil big 3 ton size was perfect for maneuvering thru the woods and turning radius plus to move the entire tractor and trailer length on a trailer to transport was a consideration as well.
 
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McMXi

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
***Current*** M6060HDC, MX6000HSTC & GL7000 ***Sold*** MX6000HST & BX25DLB
Feb 9, 2021
6,228
7,847
113
Montana
I thought the Lil big 3 ton size was perfect for maneuvering thru the woods and turning radius plus to move the entire tractor and trailer length on a trailer to transport was a consideration as well.
Makes sense. I had an MX6000HST for a little over a year, and have had an MX6000HSTC for 3-1/2 years and I have very few complaints about the model. I'm sure that you're going to enjoy yours, and I look forward to some photos of your MX with that dump trailer.
 
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Wooddog63

New member

Equipment
In the plan- MX 6000
Mar 31, 2025
18
20
3
62
NJ - NY adirondacks
Makes sense. I had an MX6000HST for a little over a year, and have had an MX6000HSTC for 3-1/2 years and I have very few complaints about the model. I'm sure that you're going to enjoy yours, and I look forward to some photos of your MX with that dump trailer.
I can’t wait to boost some pics of the MX with trailer!!
While I have your knowledge and not to change gears on the post but do you know if there any change to towing capacity when install a tow assembly onto the top and tilt as attached photo shows.
the MX tow bar is 26”” inches which just comes to end of 3 point and the Berkleman trailer yoke is 36” - if I install the TnT I’ll lose the radius I believe. One thing I found out with Kubota is you can’t talk with their tech department as it has to come from dealer.
Not too confident on dealers tech right now as I’ve disputed and shown everything I want from the MX manual. Said he wasn’t comfortable with “tapping” wire harness for a trailer connection- huh?!! It’s in the manual!! Can come from dealer!!
I mean kubotas tractor line up is a 4 yr degree but don’t one jerk an answer with out looking first
 

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McMXi

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
***Current*** M6060HDC, MX6000HSTC & GL7000 ***Sold*** MX6000HST & BX25DLB
Feb 9, 2021
6,228
7,847
113
Montana
I can’t wait to boost some pics of the MX with trailer!!
While I have your knowledge and not to change gears on the post but do you know if there any change to towing capacity when install a tow assembly onto the top and tilt as attached photo shows.
the MX tow bar is 26”” inches which just comes to end of 3 point and the Berkleman trailer yoke is 36” - if I install the TnT I’ll lose the radius I believe. One thing I found out with Kubota is you can’t talk with their tech department as it has to come from dealer.
Not too confident on dealers tech right now as I’ve disputed and shown everything I want from the MX manual. Said he wasn’t comfortable with “tapping” wire harness for a trailer connection- huh?!! It’s in the manual!! Can come from dealer!!
I mean kubotas tractor line up is a 4 yr degree but don’t one jerk an answer with out looking first
You ask a very good question, but it's hard to glean the answer from the owner's manual.

There's no down force on the 3-point so it's possible for the tongue of the trailer to raise the receiver on the 3-point, unless you add a chain or solid link to prevent that from happening. That's one of the bigger drawbacks to towing a trailer connected to the 3-point. The other part of this is a bit of a mystery. The way the load from a trailer is transmitted to the tractor is different when you compare a drawbar hitch to a 3-point hitch. Notice that Kubota doesn't supply any information re towing off the 3-point, only the drawbar.

If you look at the owner's manual, the max drawbar load is 1,650lb but the maximum lift capacity at the end of the lower links is shown as 2,870lb. Clearly the 3-point can handle more tongue weight than the drawbar, but that says nothing about the forces transmitted through the lower links, lifting rods and top link by a trailer out back.

The manual lists the maximum weights of a bunch of implements either on the 3-point or on the drawbar in a very confusing, nonsensical manner. Some values make sense, such as the maximum weight of a 7ft rotary cutter at 1,000lb, but other weights make no sense at all. In the case of the rotary cutter, Kubota is taking into account the load center being roughly 3-1/2 ft from the ends of the lower links (bigger lever), then adding in a fudge factor for dynamic loading, and that 2,870lb at the ends of the links becomes 1,000lb at the load center of the rotary cutter.

The safe bet if you're going to be pulling 6 tons of material plus the weight of the trailer is to tow off the drawbar and stay under the published values of 9,480lb trailer weight and 1,650lb tongue weight. I would be interested to read other's thoughts on how the implement data in the owner's manual could be used to figure out the capacity of the 3-point when it comes to towing.
 
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Wooddog63

New member

Equipment
In the plan- MX 6000
Mar 31, 2025
18
20
3
62
NJ - NY adirondacks
You ask a very good question, but it's hard to glean the answer from the owner's manual.

There's no down force on the 3-point so it's possible for the tongue of the trailer to raise the receiver on the 3-point, unless you add a chain or solid link to prevent that from happening. That's one of the bigger drawbacks to towing a trailer connected to the 3-point. The other part of this is a bit of a mystery. The way the load from a trailer is transmitted to the tractor is different when you compare a drawbar hitch to a 3-point hitch. Notice that Kubota doesn't supply any information re towing off the 3-point, only the drawbar.

If you look at the owner's manual, the max drawbar load is 1,650lb but the maximum lift capacity at the end of the lower links is shown as 2,870lb. Clearly the 3-point can handle more tongue weight than the drawbar, but that says nothing about the forces transmitted through the lower links, lifting rods and top link by a trailer out back.

The manual lists the maximum weights of a bunch of implements either on the 3-point or on the drawbar in a very confusing, nonsensical manner. Some values make sense, such as the maximum weight of a 7ft rotary cutter at 1,000lb, but other weights make no sense at all. In the case of the rotary cutter, Kubota is taking into account the load center being roughly 3-1/2 ft from the ends of the lower links (bigger lever), then adding in a fudge factor for dynamic loading, and that 2,870lb at the ends of the links becomes 1,000lb at the load center of the rotary cutter.

The safe bet if you're going to be pulling 6 tons of material plus the weight of the trailer is to tow off the drawbar and stay under the published values of 9,480lb trailer weight and 1,650lb tongue weight. I would be interested to read other's thoughts on how the implement data in the owner's manual could be used to figure out the capacity of the 3-point when it comes to towing.
Thank you for your time, great research and information provided- your summary is best practice but I still thinking . I’m sure those forces increase with stresses pulling a flail mower as well.
To leave the T&T would really cut back the turning radius so then if I focus on the draw bar and mimic a piece of steel stock and bolt it thru the 3 holes provided on the stock Drawbar to extend to the end of the T&T I would think I’m not really changing the loading dramatically. The Berkleman tandem wheel assembly would maintain the majority of the payload vs a single axle.
Im surprised there’s not information as the drawbars holes can’t be for weight reduction and even if they did make a longer drawbar, these engineers could calculate the reduction for the spec sheet.
Am I missing the purpose of 3 holes in the drawbar ?
 
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