BX25D. Mod #1 and continued.

[Wildfire]

I like it, I like it, I like it! Makes one want to get outside and do something to the old L185DT...

Thinking we need to somehow get you involved with the mother company, at the very least as a design consultant, as most of your mods are worthwhile and should have come from the factory.

How about a write in campaign, anybody?

Just saying, NICE JOB.

Dick

Well Dick thanks for this. At least I know your looking at my threads I'm happy to hear you like my ideas. Much appreciated sir,
Cheers. Paul

 

[skeets]

What can I say

 

[Kubota_Man]

OMG.......Now I fully understand why my lovely Wifey-Poo calls it "His tractor porn". I think I need to go clean up. I can see it now if I ever do get time to visit you I need to bring my own shipping container with me. I would like to place my order for The Claw, Ditch lights, Rear work lights, Skid plates, light guards & Whatever is next............I'm drooling in Idaho.

 

[Wildfire]

What can I say

OMG.......Now I fully understand why my lovely Wifey-Poo calls it "His tractor porn". I think I need to go clean up. I can see it now if I ever do get time to visit you I need to bring my own shipping container with me. I would like to place my order for The Claw, Ditch lights, Rear work lights, Skid plates, light guards & Whatever is next............I'm drooling in Idaho.

Thanks guys. Happy to hear you like what I've done so far and I appreciate your comments.



Geez I hate when work gets in the way of my projects :laughing:

Anyway I'm starting the ROPS lighting stage of the BX mods. I got (Yes you guessed it) LED lighting to go on the ROPS. The Forward LED 20" single light bar came from my friends at LEDstroes on Ebay. Good people to get great LED lights and pricing from. They also supplied the two 3" LED lights for the back hoe boom install.
The other light is really a tactical LED strobe light. I used the same light on the ROPS of my Kubota ZG222Z mower and it's a very good quality light. It's has multiple flash patterns and I ordered one side amber and the other white.

My objective here is to house both lights in one module to give it a cleaner look. I'm also remaining cautious about the height and depth of the housing. I'm going to try and keep it as low on the ROPS as I can and not interfere with me using the back hoe. In other words, I don't want something there that I'm going to beat my head off of getting on the off the machine.

I'm also going to hide as much of the hardware such as u bolts, lights,,,,, as I can. The materiel of choice on this mod with be 1/4 aluminum plate and 1/8th aluminum plate. This mod will fall more in the category of practicality more than eye appeal so I hope your not disappointed .

I'm hoping to have it completed this evening other than the wiring. I plan on doing the wiring all the one time.

I'd also like to add that with this project I stepped outside to pick up some items for the BX from a few other BX vendors and was very pleased with both items immensely.

I ordered and received a Hydraulic System Pressure Test kit from BXpanded. When the kit arrived I was pleasantly surprised at how well the kit was put together and at a great price. It was well packaged and even the instructions were included. It's a well thought out kit that's well worth the money so to BXpanded :Good stuff"! :thumbsup:

The other vendor I purchased from was from Bro-Tek and their wheel spacers. I actually had the pleasure of talking to Richard who owns the company and he is as nice as the products he sells. The wheel spacers machining are as good as anything I've ever seen. I've machined my own spacers in the past but Bro-Teks pricing was so good on the BX spacers I was saving money by purchasing them from him. So to Richard at Bro-Tek. Good Stuff! :thumbsup:

LEDlights. Good pricing,Duty free to Canada and they stand behind their products. To LEDlights. good Stuff! :thumbsup:


Here's are some more photo's to bore you with

I try and show a weld or two in my posts. Not the best Tig I've done but I did this on hour 14th of the day

 

[Wildfire]

Well here's my ROPS lighting. My goal was to keep it as close to the ROPS as possible. U bolted from the inside with no welding, no cutting and no modding of the ROPS. Except for the nuts, bolts,washers it's all aluminum. The front light is a 20" LED single light bar and the rear is a multi pattern Tactical LED strobe with have being amber and the other half is white. I was looking for the tidiest package I could come up with and this works for me.
As I mentioned on TBN. I've decided to call this my last posted Mod. Although there's a few more minor things I'm going to do I'll just wait and do a video of it all when I get some time.

The shops busy and it takes me so much time to document this stuff with shrinking of photo's, write ups. It takes a lot of time so lets say that from this point on I won't be posting my work but I do appreciate all your views,opinions and suggestions.

Hey. Now you guys get a break

 

[seanbarr]

Wildfire, you certainly think outside of the box (well, inside,... you get the idea).

I would have never thought of such enclosure the way you had designed. If there's a tiny ounce of criticism, wouldn't you have designed it in such a way where everything is mounted inside the enclosure and designed to sit comfortably on the ROPS with the bottom plate serving as a bracket complete with countersunk hardware, fastened from the bottom up to make a smooth bottom? The channel could be lined with thin rubber to grip the ROPS. The reason I'm thinking that is the chance of skinning/denting your head on those bolts at the bottom.

If there was a second guy working for you, I could see him creating a catalog of Kubota accessories and have him duplicate them all day long to sell direct to customers who find you and/or directly to Kubota dealers. I can't imagine a customer who would be completely satisfied with their stock machine without any added necessary "goodies"! If you're so inclined, I could even make up detailed instruction manuals for you (EVModules.com to see samples)

With high regards, admiration and respect (along with viewing pleasure),

Sean

 

[Wildfire]

Wildfire, you certainly think outside of the box (well, inside,... you get the idea).

I would have never thought of such enclosure the way you had designed. If there's a tiny ounce of criticism, wouldn't you have designed it in such a way where everything is mounted inside the enclosure and designed to sit comfortably on the ROPS with the bottom plate serving as a bracket complete with countersunk hardware, fastened from the bottom up to make a smooth bottom? The channel could be lined with thin rubber to grip the ROPS. The reason I'm thinking that is the chance of skinning/denting your head on those bolts at the bottom.

If there was a second guy working for you, I could see him creating a catalog of Kubota accessories and have him duplicate them all day long to sell direct to customers who find you and/or directly to Kubota dealers. I can't imagine a customer who would be completely satisfied with their stock machine without any added necessary "goodies"! If you're so inclined, I could even make up detailed instruction manuals for you (EVModules.com to see samples)

With high regards, admiration and respect (along with viewing pleasure),

Sean

Thanks Sean. You have some good points there. I'm really not 100% finished with the module. I'm looking for a 1/2" foam pad to cover the underside of the module to reduce the risk of hitting my hear off the top of the ROPS.
I haven't seen one done like this before and wanted to go with this design. I kept the height as low as I could plus not having it hung low in the ROPS tube. To countersink as you mentioned meant a deeper design and that I didn't want.
These BX25D's have a high ROPS. You would have to be very tall to hit your head off these lower nuts. I could think of at least five different designs for this set up but I went with the one that fit my needs. With some of the ROPS lighting I've seen done over the years this in my opinion is the cleanest I've seen so I'm happy

These past three weeks I've worked 14-16 hours every day and I need this little beast out of the shop.
If I could find a guy in my area that was a machinist/welder I'd hire him but they are very hard to find. Thanks for posting



Well our new Stihl came into the dealer today. Did I mention I like orange :laughing:
It's one of their newer models. I have plans for a custom holder for it on the BX.
Here's a few pics I just snapped.

 

[Eric McCarthy]

FINALLY something I don't think you can modify Paul. But I'm sure given enough time you'll figure out a way to put mini led lights on the handle bar of the chain saw.

I've often though to my self over the years if there was anything this man CAN'T modify and I think this chain saw might be it....

 

[Wildfire]

FINALLY something I don't think you can modify Paul. But I'm sure given enough time you'll figure out a way to put mini led lights on the handle bar of the chain saw.

I've often though to my self over the years if there was anything this man CAN'T modify and I think this chain saw might be it....

Eric, Eric, Eric. I can mod a chainsaw BUT you need to think of things on a larger scale. Much larger and I'm off to a good start

 

[seanbarr]

Ouch! Best comeback of all time!

 

[Wildfire]

I'll post this because if your into safety and you need a back up alarm you'll find this just might help you. I'm using an actual back up alarm switch and a Grote back up speaker.
I looked all around the BX to find a appropriate place to place the switch and the speaker.
The best place I found for the switch was under the right floor board toward the rear. There are two bolts there you can use with out drilling any other holes. Now just trying to let the switch hit the reverse linkage just wont do it because there's not enough sweep on the pedal so go get yourself a stiff brake spring and cut it to fit as pictured and attach it to the one nut as you see in the photo. doing it this way will give you plenty of sweep to activate the switch.

The switch come with extra hardware but in the case of the BX it's not needed. Cut yourself a piece of 1/8th aluminum like I have pictured and attach it to the two existing bolts on the floorboard and it's a very tidy looking install. Don't try and install the switch between the chassis. There's filters in the way and it's not a good place to do it in my opinion.

Mount the speaker on the right rear fuel tank support strut. You'll have to remove the one 15 mm nut and then drill or punch two 1/4 holes in the bracket to accept the speaker. When it's installed it will look like I have pictured.
Not to worry. This thing is loud enough to wake the dead. I'll also be installing a by-pass toggle switch so I can turn the alarm off when working in an area where It's not needed.
Hope this helps

 

[Kubota_Man]

Eric my friend the one thing I have learned in my short life here on OTT is to never ever ever ever challenge Wildfire at modifying anything He wins everytime

 

[Eric McCarthy]

I'm not to sure about this one. I only see one chainsaw that he purchased and not a zillion to make a motorcycle!

 

[Wildfire]

I'm not to sure about this one. I only see one chainsaw that he purchased and not a zillion to make a motorcycle!

I said when I posted and I quote " I'm off to a good start" meaning I could be buying more. It WILL take many more to make a motorcycle like that
Man your slow this week. First the fan and now this

 

[cabu]

And her is how the Dolmette is started: Link

And here a short ride: Link


The story around is, that a comic writer in Germany was once pushed to visit the factory of Dolmar. He was not amused, because he did not know what a motorbike driver should do there. But once he was there, he had an idea...


Another project was a bike with ONE cylinder from a Deutz tractor with 1440ccm!!! And the frontend is made out of wood:

 

[Wildfire]

Hey Eric. A chainsaw can be modded They are even used in ultralights and RC vehicles

 

[hodge]

Hey Eric. A chainsaw can be modded They are even used in ultralights and RC vehicles

Oh, wow. Look at the gear reduction on it! I'm sure it needs it because of the RPM's, and it would probably climb a tree. Unless you pants leg gets caught in it...
The wheelie bar is a clue to the performance, or wishful thinking.

 

[Eric McCarthy]

Hey hey hey.... That's a chainsaw motor. That doesn't count! A chainsaw is the power head plus the bar and the chain. The power head can be used for anything. I've seen guys make blenders out of them.

 

[Wildfire]

Hey hey hey.... That's a chainsaw motor. That doesn't count! A chainsaw is the power head plus the bar and the chain. The power head can be used for anything. I've seen guys make blenders out of them.

Nope. It's Stlhl a modified chainsaw. The chainsaw is one of the easiest machines to mod.


Well I took off a few hours early today to head to the city to look for some foam to cover over the bottom of my light module. Couldn't really find exactly what I was looking for but ended up at Wal-Mart and found some lockable foam that would work. also bought some spray glue.
I cut two pieces to the correct size then used my punch wad set to punch the holes in the first piece so it would fit over the nuts and flush with the bottom of the module. I then glued the two pieces together and only left two holes going through both pieces so I could gain assess to the two 1/4 bolts just in case I needed to remove the top of the module for servicing. Worked out nicely. I also removed the aluminum bracket that I fabbed up last evening for the back up alarm so I could etch prime it then paint it. Here's a few pics of the process.:

 

[cabu]

After all of this modifications, do really want to take it in the woods and get damaged? You know, it not pushing snow around, the job in the wood will be different. I hope your little friend stay alive and shiny nice.

Have fun!

carl