BX24 winter cab build

[BXHoosier]

For a while, I’ve been wanting to build a winter cab for my BX24. It seems that the only time we get enough snow to use the tractor, the temps are in the teens or single digits F and the wind is blowing.

I’m using 2”x2”x1/8” angle iron for the brackets, wood for the frame, and 0.22” plexiglass for the windows. I already have a canopy with an aluminum extrusion frame, so the roof is done. The rear panel will be quick detach in case I need to use the backhoe with the cab on.

Today, I got a few brackets made and the vertical pieces cut where the door hinges will attach.

 

[85Hokie]

Keep them pictures coming - everyone loves a good build!

 

[DustyRusty]

Will it be ready for the first snowstorm? Sure hope that you have this well planned because if I were doing it, it would be ready for the July 4th parade, in 2024.

 

[OrangeKrush]

For sure.. keep us posted!

 

[GreensvilleJay]

NICE:
That's One of those 'summer projects' I never got around to do...sigh..
Now I'm thinking a 'custom fitted' clear shower curtain and some strong magnets might pass as a temporary 'winter cab', dbl sigh...
At least the days are now getting longer !!!

 

[Ping]

A heated cab sure makes snow removal enjoyable. Awaiting further progress.
regards

 

[Henro]

Looks good and look forward to seeing your progress...

BUT someone has to offer a suggestion.

Are the fenders strong enough to support the weight? Looks like you should have drilled a hole and bolted the angle support to the ROPS!

Forgive me...just a imbecilic attempt a humor...LOL

Keep up the good work!

 

[OrangeKrush]

Looks good and look forward to seeing your progress...

BUT someone has to offer a suggestion.

Are the fenders strong enough to support the weight? Looks like you should have drilled a hole and bolted the angle support to the ROPS!

Forgive me...just a imbecilic attempt a humor...LOL

Keep up the good work!

Or without drilling holes in ROPS, perhaps a square U bolt from inside with holes drilled in angle iron.

 

[Ping]

The OPs rear angle appears to be attached similar to my cab. Angle iron rests on top of the ROPS nuts which result in about 1/32” clearance to the fender. Though I used tapered lug nuts at the front to gain a few more threads of engagement.

 

[orange crusher]

Recently added to my BX 2680. Lovin it so far

 

[OrangeKrush]

View attachment 71965

Recently added to my BX 2680. Lovin it so far

Looks like it might be tuff to see clearly, especially when snow flies and rain coming down. Did they make it so that the top of the front can be zipped or Velcro'd down enough to get a good visual without taking it completely out?

 

[Henro]

View attachment 71965

Recently added to my BX 2680. Lovin it so far

Looks nice to me.

I do have a question though. Can you angle the plow to compensate for off camber angles? Float works for me on my back blade tilt cylinders. Just wondering if a front plow blade has the same functionality.

 

[BXHoosier]

The OPs rear angle appears to be attached similar to my cab. Angle iron rests on top of the ROPS nuts which result in about 1/32” clearance to the fender. Though I used tapered lug nuts at the front to gain a few more threads of engagement.

Exactly!
I replaced the original nuts with shorter ones to give me enough threads to attach the brackets. The bracket pieces will be welded together. I left the pieces a little long and I’ll trim them to length later.

 

[orange crusher]

Looks nice to me.

I do have a question though. Can you angle the plow to compensate for off camber angles? Float works for me on my back blade tilt cylinders. Just wondering if a front plow blade has the same functionality.

No, it functions like a normal 4 way snow plow. Up/down Left/right As well, I am running the hard rubber edge on it.

 

[BXHoosier]

Decided to frame the front panel with 2”x2”x1/8” angle iron so it’s strong enough to handle being trailered just in case. The angle is turned so that the front of the doors will tuck inside the angle to prevent air from trying to peal open the doors if I trailer it.

Cut a piece of 5/8” plywood for a filler panel at the rear.

 

[BXHoosier]

Finished cutting pieces for the windshield frame and started on the rear window. The window will be attached to the inner frame which will be quick attach in case I need to use the backhoe with the cab on.

 

[BXHoosier]

Made a 1-1/2” square lumber frame for one of the doors. There will be another horizontal piece across the frame, below the windshield. The doors will be covered with 1/4” sanded plywood.

The filler panel below the windshield is 1/4” HDPE plastic that’s leftover from my canopy top. I may add windows to it.

I may try to build my own heater. For a few years, I’ve had a brass transmission cooler that came from a radiator tank. The plan is to build a box with a fan on the bottom blowing through the cooler with ductwork at the top to direct air at the windshield and the floor. I’ll add some aluminum mesh inside the heater box to help with heat dissipation.

 

[OrangeKrush]

Very nice! Being a carpenter myself.. I can appreciate some good wood working.

 

[dlsmith]

Keep in mind that the engine fan pulls air in through the cover over the battery area, so when heating the cab you will have to make a provision for it to pull in outside air without pulling it into the cab you want to heat.

 

[DustyRusty]

There is a removable plate under the battery compartment. You can remove that, and using some rubber roofing block the air from being pulled from the cab. I had removed my inside screen that you take off to service the battery, and slipped the rubber under the center support, and tucked it into the ends. Took a little time trimming the rubber to fit, but it worked out great for me.