Brand new L4701 lost oil plug and run dry

[sheepfarmer]

I have the impression they are shipped to the dealer with SUDT2 including the front axles. Trying to remember all the sources of that impression, but it includes the tech who has worked on my new b2650. It was partly in the context that they like to swap out the factory SUDT2 in the front end for 80 90 gear oil when the first change is due. And that it is easier to use all the same oil on the assembly line (except for engine oil).

Another idle thought, I wonder if the computer in the Ls will shut the engine down if the oil pressure is too low? It is capable of shutting it down if it doesn't like the regen conditions.

 

[Ian SAVS]

OK everyone, thank you all very much for all of your responses. I love the fact that you can rapidlycrowd source important information on a forum these days and thank you for contributing your time and knowledge. Currently I have contacted KTAC insurance and begun a claim. The dealership wanted that done just so they could be sure they were covered for any expenses for recovery of the tractor which will have to be pulled out with another tractor to get it out of the valley that is in our farm.

I'm going to demand a new engine or a new tractor. I was looking over all visible points of the engine and could not find any serial number or unique marking so I made my own very discreetly on the engine. I will be able to definitively if they try to pass off this one repaired or rebuiltj. What else should I ask for? I assume that the dealer will be able to provide the serial number of the new unit they install for my records, that will be on my list.

Cathy, I'm sorry but your idea of "the engine is fine" defies all mechanical logic to me. I'm no diesel mechanic but undoubtedly if you seize an engine it's going to cause damage that may not present itself immediately but increases your odds of troubles down the road.

Recovery crew is here now so I'll post up more info and updates when I have them

 

[vio4701]

If it were me I'd want a new tractor. I'd think if they would put a new engine in it would just beg for more problems down the line if not done right. Definitely a new rig for me if I were in that position. Good luck with the claim. Hope all turns out well.

 

[Benhameen]

I'm no mechanic and I'm just going agree with most everyone here. If my new tractor with 12 hrs on it had this issue I would also demand a new engine, with no out of pocket cost to me.

You are correct in that this is a great place to get information quickly from folks that are very knowledgeable about kubota tractors. I have learned a great deal from many here.

Please keep us posted on your progres and best of luck.

Ben

 

[Ian SAVS]

Recovery has not gone well, I suppose you shouldn't bring a smaller tractor without a front and loader to try and haul a larger tractor up a steep hill.

My tractor remains on the hill and they packed up their's to go back to the shop for a larger one. I suppose doing it on a super rainy day in North Carolina wasn't a great idea either.

 

[KennedyFarmer]

Recovery has not gone well, I suppose you shouldn't bring a smaller tractor without a front and loader to try and haul a larger tractor up a steep hill.

My tractor remains on the hill and they packed up their's to go back to the shop for a larger one. I suppose doing it on a super rainy day in North Carolina wasn't a great idea either.

Hand them a copy of this when they return.

https://www.extension.purdue.edu/extmedia/PPP/PPP-98.pdf

I learned a lot reading this!

 

[L35]

Probably the 2 guys that will be putting a new motor in your rig

 

[twomany]

They sent a boy to do a man's work ... at least as far as the tow tractor .... ;-)

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I'm thinking it was the operator and his assistant that was the reason they couldn't get it to move.
That tractor looks plenty big enough to tow the other, it should be a free wheeling implement if they bothered to take the transmission and put it in neutral.

 

[85Hokie]

I'm thinking it was the operator and his assistant that was the reason they couldn't get it to move.
That tractor looks plenty big enough to tow the other, it should be a free wheeling implement if they bothered to take the transmission and put it in neutral.

I was thinkin the same thing ....my B7100 would pull it somewhat, if'n the biggun was in neutral....brake off...etc

 

[KennedyFarmer]

Well from the looks of it the loader is down, So there is the loader drag, two the implement is down...more drag. YES that tractor can pull it free wheeled...but with all that other stuff dragging?

With the engine dead how would you remove the loader and the implement? the first being the hardest.

 

[Daren Todd]

I've had to pull a tractor with the loader down, it's really not to bad. The key is to get the loader off the ground. When I did it, we put the bucket into the float position. Managed to get a chain under the bucket, attached to the front of the tractor so as it tightened it would raise the bucket off the ground.

Put the tractor in neutral and away we went As long as it's in neutral, and not on a steep slope, it doesn't take much to pull one.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Well from the looks of it the loader is down, So there is the loader drag, two the implement is down...more drag. YES that tractor can pull it free wheeled...but with all that other stuff dragging?

With the engine dead how would you remove the loader and the implement? the first being the hardest.

Chain under bucket of the loader to the frame of the tractor, that lifts the bucket off the ground, I block them once lifted.
another option is to use the three point and a chain to lift the bucket off the ground then block the loader.

Just about any three point implement can be unhitched when it's down, or a come-a-long off the ROPS will lift it right up.

Getting a loader off a dead tractor is easy.
One way is to use a set of jumper hoses and use the good tractor to power the hydraulics off the dead one to remove the loader.
The other is 2 bottle jacks under the boom arms and off it will come.

Note: In the picture that was posted the extrication professionals (dealer shop monkeys) hooked the chain under the bucket but then hooked to the cross tube of the loader, rather dumb way of hooking up to it IMHO!

 

[KennedyFarmer]

I've had to pull a tractor with the loader down, it's really not to bad. The key is to get the loader off the ground. When I did it, we put the bucket into the float position. Managed to get a chain under the bucket, attached to the front of the tractor so as it tightened it would raise the bucket off the ground.

Put the tractor in neutral and away we went As long as it's in neutral, and not on a steep slope, it doesn't take much to pull one.

Chain under bucket of the loader to the frame of the tractor, that lifts the bucket off the ground, I block them once lifted.
another option is to use the three point and a chain to lift the bucket off the ground then block the loader.

Just about any three point implement can be unhitched when it's down, or a come-a-long off the ROPS will lift it right up.

Getting a loader off a dead tractor is easy.
One way is to use a set of jumper hoses and use the good tractor to power the hydraulics off the dead one to remove the loader.
The other is 2 bottle jacks under the boom arms and off it will come.

Note: In the picture that was posted the extrication professionals (dealer shop monkeys) hooked the chain under the bucket but then hooked to the cross tube of the loader, rather dumb way of hooking up to it IMHO!

I know I'm armchair quarterbacking here, But based on the pictures i don't think they did anything like you mentioned based on the picture.

 

[William1]

'Normal' factory warranty servicing is a replacement short block and perhaps a head as well. This means pulling of the existing engine, stripping it and swapping the external parts to the short block. Things like oil pan, water pump, alternator (injection pump???) will be reused. This is what is done 99.9% of the time.

Though from time to time, the manufacturer will replace the entire unit (complete tractor in your case) and send the damaged one to the training school for the n00b mechanics to practice on. Hope that happens, though a proper rebuild with an OEM supplied short block should be as good as or even better than new (hand assembled and not 'off a line').

Best of luck getting everything sorted out to your satisfaction.

 

[Daren Todd]

I know I'm armchair quarterbacking here, But based on the pictures i don't think they did anything like you mentioned based on the picture.

I've pulled a 20,000lb backhoe out of my yard with my little l1501 2wd. It was a John Deere backhoe. Was really kicking myself in the butt afterwords for not getting someone to take some pics

 

[Jim Dandy]

I am sure the dealer will handle this in a professional manner .Some of the comments here are a little harsh . Two men trying to get a tractor moved . WE can not tell the true condition they are facing. Shop Monkeys Come on we are better then that.
James

 

[Tooljunkie]

All i had was a farm jack when i had to load a dead loader. Jacked tractor with hydraulic lever pulled back. When jack was limited out i released the hydraulic lever. Loader stayed up.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I am sure the dealer will handle this in a professional manner .Some of the comments here are a little harsh . Two men trying to get a tractor moved . WE can not tell the true condition they are facing. Shop Monkeys Come on we are better then that.
James

You have never worked as a mechanic have you?
Shop monkey or Wrench monkey is what a dealership mechanic is called, it's not what I consider a derogatory term.

But On the other had, I can look at a picture and tell they don't know what they are doing!

 

[skeets]

There are mechanics ( grease monkeys, gear heads, diesel dummies) , and then there are parts changers ( geee boss I aint never worked on a transmission but sur would like to try) . A big difference !