Brake carnage!!

[Fordtech86]

Use the extractor, just watch the level in the reservoir. Suck the reservoir out first and refill with new fluid then I would recommend going ahead and do all 4 (hopefully the bleeders will break loose on the old calipers)

 

[mcmxi]

Use the extractor, just watch the level in the reservoir. Suck the reservoir out first and refill with new fluid then I would recommend going ahead and do all 4 (hopefully the bleeders will break loose on the old calipers)

Great advice ... thanks! The bleeders look fine on the other three calipers so I don't expect an issue breaking them loose. I'll try the EWK but also have a nice hand vacuum pump that I use to draw a vacuum on mason jars filled with coffee beans that I've roasted. I have spare one-way valves so could rig up something small and cheap to help with brake bleeding which is a one-man show.

 

[Fordtech86]

The extractor has manual option correct? Just put the line on bleeder and pump it up a little to build vacuum in the tank then crack the bleeder open. I’ve always bleed brakes by myself this way

 

[mcmxi]

The extractor has manual option correct? Just put the line on bleeder and pump it up a little to build vacuum in the tank then crack the bleeder open. I’ve always bleed brakes by myself this way

Yes, the EWK can be used in manual or pneumatic mode. I'll give it a try. Thanks.

 

[lugbolt]

if you can find them, they make rebuild kits for most calipers. And they're dirt simple to rebuild. 2 pistons, 2 dust boots, 2 seals (on those)-per caliper. Maybe $30 worth of parts to do both sides-including the hardware kit.

 

[Ktrim]

Do yourself a favor and change the hoses. Many instances of hose wear, sucking closed on retraction. Not allowing fluid to return and causing inner pad damage as you experienced. Just fyi

 

[mcmxi]

if you can find them, they make rebuild kits for most calipers. And they're dirt simple to rebuild. 2 pistons, 2 dust boots, 2 seals (on those)-per caliper. Maybe $30 worth of parts to do both sides-including the hardware kit.

I looked for caliper rebuild kits in all the usual places but didn't find any pistons available. The pistons I saw on various websites were close to $7 each. I'm ok with $83 for a completely rebuilt caliper and bracket.

 

[mcmxi]

Do yourself a favor and change the hoses. Many instances of hose wear, sucking closed on retraction. Not allowing fluid to return and causing inner pad damage as you experienced. Just fyi

That's interesting ... thanks. I have braided aftermarket stainless steel lines on my Jeep, but the standard, and probably original, rubber lines on the Ford.

 

[The Evil Twin]

Just a couple words of advice from doing biannual brake flushes on several vehicles:
Bite the bullet and get a Motive pressure bleeder. Spring for the aluminum reservoir adapter. It's a 1 man operation. Literally takes me 30 minutes on the truck.
Get 2 quarts of fluid. It takes over a quart to fully purge my Super Duty at all 4 corners.

 

[mcmxi]

Just a couple words of advice from doing biannual brake flushes on several vehicles:
Bite the bullet and get a Motive pressure bleeder. Spring for the aluminum reservoir adapter. It's a 1 man operation. Literally takes me 30 minutes on the truck.
Get 2 quarts of fluid. It takes over a quart to fully purge my Super Duty at all 4 corners.

Another great tip! I just ordered the Motive 0117 Black Label Power Bleeder and will probably order adapters for my Jeep and boat trailer another time. Once I figure out the LMTV M1078 braking system I might order or make an adapter for that too. I'll pick up another quart of brake fluid.

Hopefully that's it for this brake job. I did look at stainless steel braided brake hoses, and kits for front and rear are in the $300 price range. That'll have to wait a while. It's been an expensive couple of months.

The individual who hired me for 3-1/2 hours cutting work last week wants me to come back ASAP, but without the truck up and running it'll have to wait a couple of weeks.

 

[The Evil Twin]

Another great tip! I just ordered the Motive 0117 Black Label Power Bleeder and will probably order adapters for my Jeep and boat trailer another time. Once I figure out the LMTV M1078 braking system I might order or make an adapter for that too. I'll pick up another quart of brake fluid.

Hopefully that's it for this brake job. I did look at stainless steel braided brake hoses, and kits for front and rear are in the $300 price range. That'll have to wait a while. It's been an expensive couple of months.

The individual who hired me for 3-1/2 hours cutting work last week wants me to come back ASAP, but without the truck up and running it'll have to wait a couple of weeks.

The thing is indispensable! Not only have I used it for Ford, VW, BMW, Hyundai and other brake flshes, I also fabricated a power steering cap on the Super Duty (vacuum assist, not hydro) to flush that system too.

 

[Tarmy]

Another great tip! I just ordered the Motive 0117 Black Label Power Bleeder and will probably order adapters for my Jeep and boat trailer another time. Once I figure out the LMTV M1078 braking system I might order or make an adapter for that too. I'll pick up another quart of brake fluid.

Hopefully that's it for this brake job. I did look at stainless steel braided brake hoses, and kits for front and rear are in the $300 price range. That'll have to wait a while. It's been an expensive couple of months.

The individual who hired me for 3-1/2 hours cutting work last week wants me to come back ASAP, but without the truck up and running it'll have to wait a couple of weeks.

those Motive bleeders are great. Tip on using it….some people fill the motive bottle with fluid and do the flush. It is way cleaner and easier to use it and push 3/4 of the reservoir thru and refill as needed….takes a few cycles. That way the bleeder doesn’t need to be cleaned. I do my brakes on all vehicles every two years…

Looking at your pics I was wondering if that caliper had an air pocket on one side and that lead to uneven compression on the pads and the uneven wear. I have seen crappy bleed jobs leave air in one caliper and cause similar uneven damage.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I don't have one of those fancy and expansive garages like @North Idaho Wolfman in which one could park a small plane

WHO ME??????

If I can ever get all the wood out of my garage I might have some more room to move around.

 

[Runs With Scissors]

Do yourself a favor and change the hoses. Many instances of hose wear, sucking closed on retraction. Not allowing fluid to return and causing inner pad damage as you experienced. Just fyi

+1

This exact same thing just happened to me a few years ago.

Depending on the mileage, replacing the hoses can be cheap insurance.

 

[lynnmor]

+1

This exact same thing just happened to me a few years ago.

Depending on the mileage, replacing the hoses can be cheap insurance.

I have had hoses get pinched shut from the road salt rusting the brackets that support the hose. Road salt is another wonderful idea that promotes safety while destroying brakes.

 

[Runs With Scissors]

I have had hoses get pinched shut from the road salt rusting the brackets that support the hose. Road salt is another wonderful idea that promotes safety while destroying brakes.

In my case the hose collapsed internally.

There was no visible anomalies on the outside, but my right side front pads wore out twice, before I found out what the problem was.

The only reason I found out, was that my dad had his right caliper replaced twice on his 04 Jeep, and the 2nd guy told him that that his hose was most likely bad internally. The guy told him that Mopar used inferior hoses back around 2004'ish and that's why they fail. (I have never hear heard this before, but that's what he claimed)


He replace both hoses and that fixed his problem.

It was around that same time that I was experiencing problems.

I replace both hoses and the problem went away as well.

Damn frustrating.

 

[mcmxi]

The thing is indispensable! Not only have I used it for Ford, VW, BMW, Hyundai and other brake flshes, I also fabricated a power steering cap on the Super Duty (vacuum assist, not hydro) to flush that system too.

That's awesome! My F250 is due for a power steering flush. There's some wetting around the PS unit too so might be time this summer to replace seals, push out the old fluid and add new. Thanks again!

On another note, you are proving to be an expensive habit. This is the second tool that I've ordered based on your recommendation. I do appreciate your expertise and experience though. I've been working on cars and trucks for decades, but as in everything, I always enjoy learning of new and better ways to do things.

 

[mcmxi]

those Motive bleeders are great. Tip on using it….some people fill the motive bottle with fluid and do the flush. It is way cleaner and easier to use it and push 3/4 of the reservoir thru and refill as needed….takes a few cycles. That way the bleeder doesn’t need to be cleaned. I do my brakes on all vehicles every two years…

Looking at your pics I was wondering if that caliper had an air pocket on one side and that lead to uneven compression on the pads and the uneven wear. I have seen crappy bleed jobs leave air in one caliper and cause similar uneven damage.

I watched some YouTube videos last night related to the Motive brake bleeders. Thanks for the tip re how to use the kit.

All four rotors and pads exhibit the same uneven wearing of the inside components. With new rotors and pads, and doing a really good job of bleeding the system I'm looking forward to feeling the difference.

 

[The Evil Twin]

That's awesome! My F250 is due for a power steering flush. There's some wetting around the PS unit too so might be time this summer to replace seals, push out the old fluid and add new. Thanks again!

On another note, you are proving to be an expensive habit. This is the second tool that I've ordered based on your recommendation. I do appreciate your expertise and experience though. I've been working on cars and trucks for decades, but as in everything, I always enjoy learning of new and better ways to do things.

Glad I can help spend your money
For the PS flush, I took a cap and drilled a hole in it and installed a threaded barb fitting in it. Sealing the threads with epoxy. The plastic isn't terribly thick so use caution. After the epoxy set, I put that cap on and took the return hose off and routed it to a bucket using an extension tube. IIRC what I used was 7/8 PVC tube.
Cleaning is a pain. I ended up getting another bleeder hose for the brakes. I didn't trust getting all the fluid out and getting stuff mixed. The PS uses ATF. So that hose set is just for that and transfer case filling now. For cleaning brake fluid just use denatured alcohol.

 

[hedgerow]

mcmxi If it were me I would replace the other caliper while your at it and replace all the rubber brake hoses. That truck has enough age on it the hoses aren't great on the inside. I have seen a lot of uneven pad wear from pistons that get sticky as the calipers get age on them and hoses that are not flowing the fluid correctly from age also.