Bad Welds?

McMXi

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Fixed. Dont care about looks as long as it holds.

He used a 66XX for the first weld then 7018 on top of that.
There were cracked weld behind where the tube connects to the frame. He hit those too.
Since the repairs have also failed, I wonder if your welder ground and or drilled out the cracks before welding or simply welded over the cracks?

You made the comment that you "don't care about looks", but there's often a correlation between how a weld looks and how it functions.
 
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Tarmy

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Those “fix” welds have some porosity and likely weren’t done well. As noted, the prep is important and the amount of heat/material added and HOW it is added may need some addition thought. Did he preheat anything?
 
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WI_Hedgehog

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I just cut rectangular holes in rectangular tubes for smaller tubes to pass through and will say in my case of passing smaller 5/16" wall tubes through larger 5/16" tubes there's more resulting strength than butt-welding, and I would think that in the case of the front-end loader if a smaller round tube was passing through the larger loader arm rectangular tube the strength and rigidity would be increased. Mind you I'm not a tractor or loader engineer, so it's only a guess.

From looking at the initial pictures it looks like poor heat penetration on the loader arm side of the weld (a "cold weld") resulted in a stress fracture. Welding is supposed to be using an arc to heat both parts (the loader arm and cross-tube) to the point they melt and steel from each flows together into a pool that when cool forms one continuous part. The filler wire is to make up for the loss in material that vaporizes due to the electrical arc--it's not glue and doesn't add strength when used as glue; in fact too much weld reduces strength (it's a bit more than worth detailing here, all that is in the AWS book).

I say "looks like a 'cold weld'" because from the pictures it looks like the filler sits on top the cross-tube and loader arm instead of the cross-tube and loader arm being slightly melted away and into the filler; any time I see a "caterpillar" type weld that's usually the case, the filler is forming a convex (bulging out) round ridge mostly on top the donar parts with little burn-in. A weld with good burn-in generally shows material contribution from the parts being welded and is concave (bowed in) or flat across with smooth (not sharp) transitions between the parts and filler. (As a note, sharp transitions usually result in high concentrations of stress at the sharp transition. In this case smooth transitions are a function of sufficient heat to make a good weld and also benefit the weld by not creating a localized high-stress point.)

Also note we MIG weld low-carbon steel plate (and tube, angle, bar, etc) daily and there's no problem with burning through the scale and creating a strong weld, I've posted quite a few photos of heavy welds we've done and burning through mill scale isn't an issue.

Looking at the repair I see a multi-pass weld that looks "pretty good." I don't see porosity, there are a small amount of slight voids but it's not a shielding gass issue. To me it looks like the welder pulled the weld (instead of pushing it) and the welder likely kept a good puddle and constant heat, so all good there. BUT, look at the weld distribution. I'd guess it was welded out of position and there was not enough heat--lots of motion on the part of the welder caused a good looking weld though not a strong weld--it looks like there wasn't enough penetration for good penetration as evidenced by the lack of burn-in. (See how on the left there's a small smooth radius between the filler and the tube, and in some areas the filler sits on top the tube? And on the loader arm there's a sharp transition between the filler and the loader arm? To me, from one picture, I would *guess* there's not much heat penetration. Looking at the steel and looking at the paint, I'm not seeing evidence of melting the cross-tube and loader arm together, rather it looks like the opposite happened with both being unscathed.)

I say this hoping to be helpful, not criticize anyone's work. When I saw the repair I cringed and likely left an :O or :( face out of concern for the result, which it seems showed up much sooner than I'd expected.

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If you look up the word "weld" with the gear icon and enter WI_Hedgehog (or leave me out, whichever) there are other threads on welding that might help. I do have a few pictures in the D-ring thread, though that also doesn't make me an expert--in fact I should be the first to tell you there's a lot more involved than what has been talked about here as certified welders will tell you. And as has been mentioned by McMXi, a picture can only provide some of the information, which is why I say "guess" and "looks like" a bunch, plus I don't have the experience an instructor or certified inspector has, so it's a guess based on experience, but still a guess.
 
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Old Machinist

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A butt welded torque tube was a shit design to start with. Kubota should eat all of these and replace them with a proper through frame torque tube design.
 
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Vlach7

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In the picture your right side of the weld has a crack down the middle of it, an incomplete bridging of the hot metal, Vertical welding is very difficult, if your able to find an experienced welder I'm sure you would be able to make it work. God bless.
 

Sidekick

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If it was built between 2020 and 2022 Kubota substituted many metals for whatever they could find. Maybe it's Chinesium. Time to find a professional welder.