Any downsides to Top N Tilt?

[imoldfella]

I was thinking of buying top n tilt for a new MX 5400. I've never had anything with rear remotes, so sorry if this is obvious. MX only allows 3 rear remotes, two of which would be used for top n tilt. What do you do when you have an implement that has two hydraulic functions? Can you disable the top or the tilt and still function manually on that adjustment? Or would you put in diverter switches to multiply the remotes as needed?.

Does having these remotes change anything about adding a front remote for a grapple? That's not a build option, so I assume that's just added using the Land Pride third function remote, but if you load up on rear remotes does that take up a connection needed by the Land Pride third function?

Thanks!

 

[eipo]

The Third Function operates off the loaders power beyond. It is entirely separate from the rear remotes.

If you have a rear implement that needs 2 hydraulic circuits, and it was me, I would set the hydraulic side link at a mid point and disconnect it. You will still have the left side to adjust tilt manually.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

There is no (reasonable) limit to the number of remotes a hydraulic system can have. Take a peek inside a roadgrader !! LOTS of levers in there.....
The issue is more about 'plumbing' and 'location'. You need good ,easy access to the ports and levers.
Just because the MFR doesn't have a '5 remote kit' doesn't mean YOU can't add it on !

 

[i7win7]

 

[SDT]

I was thinking of buying top n tilt for a new MX 5400. I've never had anything with rear remotes, so sorry if this is obvious. MX only allows 3 rear remotes, two of which would be used for top n tilt. What do you do when you have an implement that has two hydraulic functions? Can you disable the top or the tilt and still function manually on that adjustment? Or would you put in diverter switches to multiply the remotes as needed?.

Does having these remotes change anything about adding a front remote for a grapple? That's not a build option, so I assume that's just added using the Land Pride third function remote, but if you load up on rear remotes does that take up a connection needed by the Land Pride third function?

Thanks!

Downsides are cost and lack of precise stability.

If you need 2 remotes for accessory, replace hydraulic top link with factory top link.

Rear remotes are independent of third function.

SDT

 

[mikester]

Downsides are cost and lack of precise stability.

If you need 2 remotes for accessory, replace hydraulic top link with factory top link.

Rear remotes are independent of third function.

SDT

Why not simply unplug the hydraulic lines to free up a remote? I'd disconnect the tilt circuit as I use that the least.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

re:
Downsides are cost and lack of precise stability.

I'm curious,as to where the 'lack of precise stability' would come from ?

 

[SDT]

re:
Downsides are cost and lack of precise stability.

I'm curious,as to where the 'lack of precise stability' would come from ?

Leakage.

Hydraulic cylinders will not maintain position as do mechanical arms.

SDT

 

[NHSleddog]

I have 3 on mine and use them all the time. T&T and a spare for angle (rake, blade, box scarifiers etc.). If it is done right, I can't see any downside aside from cost, for me it was well worth it.

Huge advantage to the quality of the job.
Big advantage on speed.

Also makes "picking" 3pt attachments a breeze. With my quick hitch on, I can pick up an attachment sitting on a slope on an angle, nothing to it and never leave the seat.

When you have the 3pt on, it is faster/easier loading/unloading the trailer without "scalping". Just pull the "top" cylinder in and you have plenty of clearance.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

re:
Leakage.

Hydraulic cylinders will not maintain position as do mechanical arms.

Better buy some QUALITY cyclinders ! I've worked on systems that could maintain 1/10th of an inch accuracy for hours on end with varying loads

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Typically when the cylinders creep (typically extending on their own) 99 out or 100 times it is not the cylinder leaking, but the control valve.
Unfortunately this seems to be a more common issue to be dealt with in the last few years.
Or just more people are aware of it than used to be.

There is no good reason to have to switch out the hydraulic link for the manual link if the remotes are needed for a different cylinder. Simply unplug the couplers as was mentioned, the cylinder should remain rock solid as adjusted.

There are various ways to deal with the drifting if that is an issue. Again most of the time the drifting issues are from the control valves, not the cylinders. Good luck trying to get any valve manufacturer to back up a faulty valve, their answers when questioned about these leaking issues always seems to be, "it's within spec."

 

[SDT]

Typically when the cylinders creep (typically extending on their own) 99 out or 100 times it is not the cylinder leaking, but the control valve.
Unfortunately this seems to be a more common issue to be dealt with in the last few years.
Or just more people are aware of it than used to be.

There is no good reason to have to switch out the hydraulic link for the manual link if the remotes are needed for a different cylinder. Simply unplug the couplers as was mentioned, the cylinder should remain rock solid as adjusted.

There are various ways to deal with the drifting if that is an issue. Again most of the time the drifting issues are from the control valves, not the cylinders. Good luck trying to get any valve manufacturer to back up a faulty valve, their answers when questioned about these leaking issues always seems to be, "it's within spec."

Agreed, but if you need it to stay put, the OEM steel linkages are much more reliable.

SDT

 

[B737]

I am so sick of fussing with these rear links and adjusting them in 1/1000th of an inch increments per twist . My top-n-tilt from fit-rite cannot arrive soon enough. Adjusting the rear links manually is a huge waste of time, and can get frustrating (to me). Levers please.

 

[GeoHorn]

From Agri-Supply: “Lastly, we recommend choosing a top link cylinder with a double-piloted check valve. Check valves are an added safety feature that keep the cylinder locked in position and prevent drift. “

 

[swpflipper]

When I got my MX the top n tilt was backorder. So I have run the box blade with and without. I did have the remote valves so I could run my scarifier on the blade.
As said, faster work, trailer loading, quick hitch use. Absolutely a must for productivity when working a box blade.
I don't know what attachment I would use that would need me to disconnect a cylinder.
You might want to look at your attachment wish list to see if you would need more than three remotes.
I see no down side. Cost is made up for in productivity.
Chance of leaking? So is everything on a machine.
Convenience, you better believe it.
For a working tool I see no disadvantage. As for the STD links I see productivity issue, settle for a setting because of not wanting to get off and change a adjustment. Yet simple straight forward and virtually no maintenance.

 

[SDT]

From Agri-Supply: “Lastly, we recommend choosing a top link cylinder with a double-piloted check valve. Check valves are an added safety feature that keep the cylinder locked in position and prevent drift. “

I have one of those. The check valves help.

Would never buy a hydraulic top link without pilot operated check valves.

Don't know if commonly available T & T systems have such.

SDT

 

[imoldfella]

I don't know what attachment I would use that would need me to disconnect a cylinder.
You might want to look at your attachment wish list to see if you would need more than three remotes.

One I was specifically interested in was a snow blower which can take two (rotate/deflect), but this back blade takes up to four:

Top n tilt looks great, especially since the quick hitch situation on a cat 1/cat 2 tractor like the MX is so wonky, but I didn't want to pay the money and cut myself off from nicer implements. Great information on this thread, thank you all!

 

[Henro]

From Agri-Supply: “Lastly, we recommend choosing a top link cylinder with a double-piloted check valve. Check valves are an added safety feature that keep the cylinder locked in position and prevent drift. “

Or you can do as I did, and use control valve sections that have the pilot operated check valves built into them.

Having the pilot operated check valves on the cylinder is slightly better in some cases, as the cylinder will remain in position if you somehow rip a hose off or have a hose blowout.

Don't think pilot operated check valves are available if you want a float function. One of my rear remotes has float, which I find useful in many cases...but the other three have the check valves built into the control valves. Works well for me...

 

[MtnViewRanch]

One I was specifically interested in was a snow blower which can take two (rotate/deflect), but this back blade takes up to four:

Top n tilt looks great, especially since the quick hitch situation on a cat 1/cat 2 tractor like the MX is so wonky, but I didn't want to pay the money and cut myself off from nicer implements. Great information on this thread, thank you all!

Put one of these on and you can have 6 sets of couplers to use. How many sets of couplers you need is always available, as long as you have room to mount them.

Need to keep in mind that having the hydraulic adjustments on the hitch allows you to have those adjustments for most every 3pt implement. When all the adjustments are mounted on the implement, only that implement has them.

Nothing wrong with an all hydraulic rear blade and having the hydraulic actuated gauge wheels, but would you really need the hydraulic tilt if you already have it on the 3pt hitch?? So then you only need 5 sets of couplers to use.

 

[eipo]

I just remembered one downside of the Kubota kit... The hoses are far longer than they need to be and the fittings into the cylinders could be a little cleaner.

The tilt cylinder doesn't need 90's and if those are eliminated, the hoses could almost be halved. I did order some fittings to eliminate the 90's into the tilt cylinder and from there Ill see how short I can get the hoses.

The top cylinder could also eliminate the 90 at the implement end of the cylinder which would also facilitate shortening of the hose. Again I wont know by how much until I swap the fitting.

Other than that, I don't see a downside at all.