advise on shed roof trusses diy

[top gnome]

FWIW: I built a garage this summer and ordered trusses. They were factory made and approved by an engineer. I'm in a region where we get lots of snow.

They are 30' long with a 6/12 pitch. All built with simple 2x4s. I have 1 truss every 24".
I actually had to build and extra one myself since my design changed and I made the garage 2' wider. Like @Old_Paint said, I used little pieces of plywood instead of the metal things on every joints. The metal ones are expensive.

Hi I have two builds going this small shed and a 20x24 tractor shed that I am woefully behind on. I did purchase the trusses for the tractor shed in June but will not get them until October. I tried to order the trusses for the small building but the delivery date was end of december. that is why I built these.

 

[awesome]

Hi I have two builds going this small shed and a 20x24 tractor shed that I am woefully behind on. I did purchase the trusses for the tractor shed in June but will not get them until October. I tried to order the trusses for the small building but the delivery date was end of december. that is why I built these.

Yeah, it's a good thing to build them yourself. You'll save a lot. But it requires more patience.

 

[MapleLeafFarmer]

a word of warning..... if you live where I think you live given you live in an area that gets upwards of 8' of snow a winter (8 feet!) i don't think I would take a lot of advice given in this thread.

If I am wrong on your location then shame on me.

be careful, better safe than sorry

 

[Old_Paint]

FWIW: I built a garage this summer and ordered trusses. They were factory made and approved by an engineer. I'm in a region where we get lots of snow.

They are 30' long with a 6/12 pitch. All built with simple 2x4s. I have 1 truss every 24".
I actually had to build and extra one myself since my design changed and I made the garage 2' wider. Like @Old_Paint said, I used little pieces of plywood instead of the metal things on every joints. The metal ones are expensive.

Not only are they expensive, unless you have a press to install them, you’re no better off than toe nailing. Even if they’re properly pressed, they still require nails or screws to make sure they don’t peel and loosen the joints.

Glue on plywood gussets serves the same purpose as the barbs on the metal joint plates, and does need a press. That plus 3 screws in every timber at every joint, I don’t think mine are gonna come apart.

 

[OrangeKrush]

i don't think I would take a lot of advice given in this thread.

If I am wrong on your location then shame on me.

be careful, better safe than sorry

He came here seeking advice and was given good advice in my opinion. If he ops to use it great if not that's up to him. It sounds like he's doing most of what needs done.. adding the gussets is of major importance.. both sides would be best! If it were me I would put an extra 2x4 angle from bottom center upright to top cord at a 45* as I showed in earlier post.

Add a stringer nailed on edge (upright) against the center uprights at bottom, end to end of building. This will tie the center of walls and gables together and help strengthen up the bottom cord. Lastly run a diagonal from that center point of gable out to your side walls on top of your bottom cords.. 45* work great! This will stabilize your end walls.

The only thing I'm not sure about is the plastic on the roof. If it's going to be on the whole roof I would run purlins flat and less than 24" on center.

 

[Steamer Pete]

Made some for my sheds in the past. Couple things: 1) Lay out the pattern on your driveway with chalk lines and build to those. 2) Mark the same end while laying on the driveway, and assemble on the building with all the same ends on one side. Flipping occasional rafters can amplify any variation once the decking starts to go on. 3) 1/2" plywood plates and lots of nails or screws, and glue, at all the joints, both sides.

 

[awesome]

Made some for my sheds in the past. Couple things: 1) Lay out the pattern on your driveway with chalk lines and build to those. 2) Mark the same end while laying on the driveway, and assemble on the building with all the same ends on one side. Flipping occasional rafters can amplify any variation once the decking starts to go on. 3) 1/2" plywood plates and lots of nails or screws, and glue, at all the joints, both sides.

Actually, instead of chalking it on driveway: build one as best you can. Then use it as a template. Nail each new 2x4 over the template and then make sure it aligns perfectly before putting toe nails. This way you'll have identical trusses.
It doesnt really mattrr if your truss is ugly, what matters is that they're all equally ugly. They need to be identical.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

9' trusses can be built on a 4by8 worktable... I did 36 of them years ago..all the same as the first,so either they're all right or all wrong....... since sheds are still standing I'll go with 'right'

 

[OldcrowP51]

This the 12 x 20 shed we built

 

[GreensvilleJay]

Nice 12by20...but it's already too small, needs a 'bump out' addition to it !

 

[top gnome]

Here is the shed completed thank you all again for your help.

 

[BAP]

Here is the shed completed thank you all again for your help. View attachment 89537

Nice looking shed. Nice lake back drop.

 

[aaluck]

Here is the shed completed thank you all again for your help.

Looks real nice. I see a couch? I'm guessing a TV as well?

 

[fried1765]

a word of warning..... if you live where I think you live given you live in an area that gets upwards of 8' of snow a winter (8 feet!) i don't think I would take a lot of advice given in this thread.

If I am wrong on your location then shame on me.

be careful, better safe than sorry

Trusses built by amatures are not permitted in most areas!

 

[BAP]

Trusses built by amatures are not permitted in most areas!

How do you know that’s true

 

[PoTreeBoy]

Trusses built by amatures are not permitted in most areas!

I talked to my county planner in north Miss. They make a strong distinction between occupied and unoccupied space. For unoccupied space, I have to get a permit, but anything goes. For occupied space, engineer approved trusses are required. So I can design and build trusses for a shop/garage, but not for a home.

 

[top gnome]

Looks real nice. I see a couch? I'm guessing a TV as well?

we have a screen gazebo and that is part of the furniture for that. no tv the building will not have power. my wife will craft in the summer and it will store the gazebo furniture in the winter.

 

[top gnome]

Trusses built by amatures are not permitted in most areas!

here permits are issued by size. this building did not need a permit it is under 214 ft. I believe building your own trusses is frowned upon as the mending plates are stamped do not use for trusses and truss mending plates are not available. I will say that the lumber in my trusses is much much better than the ones I just purchased from the professionals.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

My SIL lived in a 9by12 'bunky' like that for a year+. Cost her $10K+......
locally here, trusses need a 'stamp of approval' and anything over 110 sqft MUST have a building permit.....
My 9by12 tractor sheds didn't need permits, hehehehe. Each cost $500 in materials 7 years ago, Gave 3 of them to neighbour last month as city says 'no structures' in front yard

 

[Roknstevo]

Truss are strong. Yes you can do 2x4 rafters for a shed, but from OP, I get the sense they want strength. For that, I wouldn’t go less than 2x8 for 10 foot span.

2x6 will span 13’……