Add-On LED lights. Are Relays No Longer Needed On Tractors like the BX2380 ?

[i7win7]

They are 55watt bulbs in each light, I plan on switching them to LEDs but I had these so for now they’ll do.

2x55=110 watts, 110/12v=9.2amps, you'll need to research owner manual/fuse block to know how much load the existing circuit supports.

switches and wire are rated in amps, seldom specified is voltage rating of the wire insulation (how many volts to spark thru the insulation) usually not a DIY concern.

I don't usually tamper with factory wiring systems and prefer to do electrical mods to my specks. 120v 20a motor rated toggle switches have never failed yet and eliminate relays for any under 20a load. Here's one of my homebrew electrical systems

Adding electrical devices to tractor

Purpose of post: to provide general ideas to fellow tractor owners wishing to add lights, electric sprayers, even some high current accessories for short term intermittent use (think winches, jump starts). I'll start with the high power preparations. #1 good heavy duty wire, at Walmart you...

www.tractorbynet.com

 

[atitus]

One other thing to consider: whether or not you want to be able to have the lights on with the ignition off. The wiring harness on the back of my BX is only powered when the ignition is on. I wanted my light bar to be able to work if I got stuck or stalled, or if I was doing night work and I wanted to turn the tractor off. So I ran a fused line from the battery up to the rops. The BX isn't a large tractor, it's not that much wire. I used silicone insulation as it's resistant to fuel and other chemicals.

 

[Cstock5468]

As SDT mentioned - the amp draw on LEDS is much less than typical aux lights.

However - some of us use more than one series of lights ( more than two at a time) and for this the relay becomes very important. I would say if your light are going to draw no more than 10 amps - I would use the rear hook up that are supplied and fused ( cannot remember standard fuse rating ) But if you are going to hook up say a light bar and another series of lights, it might be wise to separate those and use a relay.
A relay will bypass the stock fuses and be a separate system - if something were to go "wrong" this would able to be separated from the main electrical system. The relay will draw straight from the battery itself - all the while being fused separately.

I use a 32" LED light bar ....180 watts..... more or less 15 amps and 4 other 4 amp LED lights - each with a separate switch - but all running through relay.

THanks for sharing that information. I plan on adding a 8.3 amp LED light bar to my L3560 along with replacing the 4 work lights with LED versions of them. The work lights are not an issue as they rate lower in amperage than the ones I am removing. I have a separate switch and relay that needs to be powered. SGould I go to the battery terminal directly or is there a better pick up point? Any advise is really appreciated. Looks like a lot of work to snake the power source all the way to the battery terminal.

 

[Cstock5468]

When I installed front facing and rear facing LED lights on the ROPS, I put them on separate switches on their own fuse direct from the battery so that I could have them on without having to have the headlight switch on. By putting in a relay tied to a circuit that is controlled by the ignition switch, I know there is no juice going to the lights when the ignition switch is on the off position in case of my age I leave the light switches on.

Thanks for your notes and sharing. I would like to add a LED light bar and use the 12V feed to the front work lights but use a relay to avoid over drawing the circuit. I added up all the amperage from the work lights and the LED bar and it is 13.5 on a 15 amp fuse. I do not need to have it go on separately from ignition as the main use is for when I am working with tractor in the dark, so I am thinking of using the relay on the same circuit. THis would simplify the work in wiring as I have a L3560 cab and would have to pull off all the interior trim pieces and floor mats. Any input is appreciated. Best to you and yours

 

[GeoHorn]

All this talk about lighting seems to be avoiding the need to evaluate the amount of current being demanded when the lights are in-use. The typical Kubota alternator on MOST of these tractors are limited to 40Amps and running them at full-blast will shorten the life of that alternator due to heat. It’s generally considered good practice not to exceed 80% of elect capacity, and that limits the regular demands to 32Amps. Two 15A LED lightbars added to the regular services of these tractors are likely already at that limit. (And if you‘ve just made an engine-start and flipped on the. LEDs...your battery is also asking for a re-charge... and THAT probably puts you well OVER the limit.).

Just suggesting everyone do the math.

 

[B737]

I'm just going through this myself as I navigate my lighting project. My former BX had a 10 amp aux circuit in the back that kept it easy. However, on the B2601, the work light circuit is fed into the fuse box with a 12ga wire, hits the 5amp fuse then comes out of the fuse box with a 20ga wire to the rear. Would it have killed Kubota to continue a 12ga wire to the back???

I added floodlights, and did not want to use that tiny wire, so in the front I will install a relay, ran a 12 ga wire to the back for my lights. They are prob around 9 amps total, normal usage half that. Trying not to tip toe into the upgrade alternator waters...

 

[SidecarFlip]

Why I upgraded the 40 amp on my open station M9 to an 80 amp, same as the cab tractor. 40 amp don't cut it in my book.

 

[SidecarFlip]

Ah yes, snaking cables... I put a winch on the front of my wife's side by side and had to drop the belly pan to route the cables. I used stranded copper welding cables with crimp on lugs (that I soldered on as well). Quite an involved job direct from the starting battery, through a set of thermal breakers to the winch out front. Winch is remote controlled.

 

[bird dogger]

Another reason for the separate "switched" 10-15 amp outlet to the rear of the tractor not yet mentioned is to power a 3pt mounted or tow behind sprayer. Most of those 12vdc pumps draw in that +/- 10 amp range.

 

[GeoHorn]

Why I upgraded the 40 amp on my open station M9 to an 80 amp, same as the cab tractor. 40 amp don't cut it in my book.

Are you having a bran-pharrt..?? Or did I misunderstand your other thread where you mentioned you had 60A alternator? (And if you have an 80A alt, where did you find that? And did you have to upgrade any wiring gauges to accomodate that?)

 

[SidecarFlip]

Got my numbers transposed (as usual), The OS had a wimpy alternator. Upgraded to the cab alternator, plug and play for 80 bucks.

 

[mikedlee]

View attachment 50444

Adding a relay is easy and really only one additional step. I used a fused home run to the battery for the power and the rear acc circuit to switch it. This feeds my rops fan and lights.

View attachment 50445

Where did you purchase the clock, temp., and volt. meter? Been looking for a gauge like that.
Thanks