4wd b7100 manual trans, clutch. Update #2 it moves under its own power

[trial and error]

Huge news, it's far from operational, but I no longer have two separate halves of a b7100. Got the new seal installed flywheel back on (that was a challenge becuase although we thought we marked it we did not do a very good job and struggled as the bolts only line up in one pattern) got the clutch kit installed and all of the bellhousong to engine bolts in and snugged down. Also got the rear subframe bolts back into the rear axle housing and torqued down. Still have to go back around the bellhousong bolts and check torque but that's minor. The rest is relatively easy stuff just putting everything back in its place and giving it a test fire and run before everything "not crucial" goes back on
The re-marrying of the two halves although slow went very easily it practically fell together. Driveshatlft didn't even put up a fight as we didn't remove it and I was a little concerned about that going back into the front splines.

 

[trial and error]

Here is a tip on Messick's.
1st of all, they are THE BEST!
2nd, If you don't need parts in a hurry, ask them to ship via USPS.
Sometimes, shipping via USPS from Messick's is half the UPS price.

That is precisely what I did with the spring and other things I've ordered from them. The spring I ordered on monday came in the mail from Messicks days before my local dealer even got the seal in. The local charged my wife "shipping" when she picked up the seal today even though it came on their weekly truck. Thankfully a quick phone call from me remedied that "mistake" without any harsh words.

 

[AOW162435]

Huge news, it's far from operational, but I no longer have two separate halves of a b7100. Got the new seal installed flywheel back on (that was a challenge becuase although we thought we marked it we did not do a very good job and struggled as the bolts only line up in one pattern) got the clutch kit installed and all of the bellhousong to engine bolts in and snugged down. Also got the rear subframe bolts back into the rear axle housing and torqued down. Still have to go back around the bellhousong bolts and check torque but that's minor. The rest is relatively easy stuff just putting everything back in its place and giving it a test fire and run before everything "not crucial" goes back on
The re-marrying of the two halves although slow went very easily it practically fell together. Driveshatlft didn't even put up a fight as we didn't remove it and I was a little concerned about that going back into the front splines.

That's awesome! I've finally started on all of the maintenance on mine: oil & filter, fuel filter, coolant flush, radiator hoses, cap & clamps, front axle fluid (80w90), transmission fluid (UDT), air filter, and removing the plow, subframe & rear wheel weights.

Andreas

 

[jaxs]

The wolf was late to the party and telling you the seal isn't necessary the party was over when I arrived to tell you how/where to get a seal over the counter same day in 90% of cases and rarly takes more than 48 hours for the few oddballs. On EVERY seal and bearing is the mfgr's name with their part # or a COMMERCIAL id #. I can see it on yours but not clear enough to read. The #s are usually permanently etched rather than painted. If you look at any bearing/seal on your tractor or one bought from dealer it will not have the Kubota pn etched on it. Taking it one step farther if you live in the boondocks with no seal and bearing outlet close by. There are often industrial plants located in rural and one horse towns. There are thousands of seals and bearings on machines,any one of which can shut the entire plant down so they keep hundreds of seals and bearings on site for 24-7 access and quick repair turn around. The same bearings in your wheels,transmission,steering gear,rear diffirential,axles and implements are sitting on the shelves of paper mills,meat processing,electric cable mfging and other plants. All you need is that etched # and being friends with someone in maintenance. You probably will never need the same seal but you'll need others,so take solace in knowing you'll never be at the mercy of dealers for seals or bearings in the future. The cherry on top as if one is needed, price at bearing warehouse normally costs 25% dealer price.

 

[fried1765]

The wolf was late to the party and telling you the seal isn't necessary the party was over when I arrived to tell you how/where to get a seal over the counter same day in 90% of cases and rarly takes more than 48 hours for the few oddballs. On EVERY seal and bearing is the mfgr's name with their part # or a COMMERCIAL id #. I can see it on yours but not clear enough to read. The #s are usually permanently etched rather than painted. If you look at any bearing/seal on your tractor or one bought from dealer it will not have the Kubota pn etched on it. Taking it one step farther if you live in the boondocks with no seal and bearing outlet close by. There are often industrial plants located in rural and one horse towns. There are thousands of seals and bearings on machines,any one of which can shut the entire plant down so they keep hundreds of seals and bearings on site for 24-7 access and quick repair turn around. The same bearings in your wheels,transmission,steering gear,rear diffirential,axles and implements are sitting on the shelves of paper mills,meat processing,electric cable mfging and other plants. All you need is that etched # and being friends with someone in maintenance. You probably will never need the same seal but you'll need others,so take solace in knowing you'll never be at the mercy of dealers for seals or bearings in the future. The cherry on top as if one is needed, price at bearing warehouse normally costs 25% dealer price.

All true !

 

[trial and error]

That's awesome! I've finally started on all of the maintenance on mine: oil & filter, fuel filter, coolant flush, radiator hoses, cap & clamps, front axle fluid (80w90), transmission fluid (UDT), air filter, and removing the plow, subframe & rear wheel weights.

View attachment 106764

Andreas

That is one very clean tractor, I'm a little jealous. I would love to have a set if rear wheel weights, what are your plans for the plow and plow frame? They are rare and the frame is a good platform for building a FEL (ask me how I know lol)
Also the front axle gear oil changes are a pain getting fluid back in, so if you find or know any secrets of how to get the fluid back in without making a giant mess let me know.

 

[trial and error]

The wolf was late to the party and telling you the seal isn't necessary the party was over when I arrived to tell you how/where to get a seal over the counter same day in 90% of cases and rarly takes more than 48 hours for the few oddballs. On EVERY seal and bearing is the mfgr's name with their part # or a COMMERCIAL id #. I can see it on yours but not clear enough to read. The #s are usually permanently etched rather than painted. If you look at any bearing/seal on your tractor or one bought from dealer it will not have the Kubota pn etched on it. Taking it one step farther if you live in the boondocks with no seal and bearing outlet close by. There are often industrial plants located in rural and one horse towns. There are thousands of seals and bearings on machines,any one of which can shut the entire plant down so they keep hundreds of seals and bearings on site for 24-7 access and quick repair turn around. The same bearings in your wheels,transmission,steering gear,rear diffirential,axles and implements are sitting on the shelves of paper mills,meat processing,electric cable mfging and other plants. All you need is that etched # and being friends with someone in maintenance. You probably will never need the same seal but you'll need others,so take solace in knowing you'll never be at the mercy of dealers for seals or bearings in the future. The cherry on top as if one is needed, price at bearing warehouse normally costs 25% dealer price.

Thanks for this info, I thought about going to my local NAPA as that would have been my best bet in our location, I know a lot of industrial areas are good for this type of thing I.E.my brother lives out neat Dayton ohio and since Dayton is a industrial city and they also have a AFB in close proximity he can get just about anything within a 45 minute drive of his place. Where I'm at in NY I am not quite so lucky as NY likes to drive just about any bussiness that it can away, rivaled only by perhaps California I'm sure if I had spent some time I could have got the part sooner and maybe for less $ however I had plenty of other things to do to keep me busy while waiting including my full time job and I knew with a part # the dealer could get it with no guesswork. Don't get me wrong I am thankful for the advice and idea and I'm sure in a lot of places in the US it would apply and be an easy find unfortunately where I am at in northern orange county NY we are not friendly to those sort of businesses. And it makes finding stuff a challenge

 

[AOW162435]

That is one very clean tractor, I'm a little jealous. I would love to have a set if rear wheel weights, what are your plans for the plow and plow frame? They are rare and the frame is a good platform for building a FEL (ask me how I know lol)
Also the front axle gear oil changes are a pain getting fluid back in, so if you find or know any secrets of how to get the fluid back in without making a giant mess let me know.

The tractor only has around 960 hours and had two owners before me (I think).

As much as I want to hold on to the plow, subframe, and Kubota wheel weights, I intend to sell the pieces. The tractor will only be used with a rear mower (I recently purchased three original Kubota suitcase weights), and I intend to fill the rear tires once I've replaced them.

Andreas

 

[trial and error]

I may be interested in the rear weights depending on how far you are from me

 

[trial and error]

@North Idaho Wolfman could the fork for the throwout bearing being put on backwards cause the clutch to not fully disengage even with the turnbuckle adjusted all the way in? I know this is hard to explain and I didnt snap any pictures. Long story short we got the tractor reassembled to point where we could do a controlled test run and the clutch pedal would not disengage the clutch no matter how far we turned in the adjustment turnbuckle. And I am curious if that fork being reassembled "backwards" could be the cause. Pretty depressing. Stripped everything back down except the bellhousong bolts to try again tomorrow.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

@North Idaho Wolfman could the fork for the throwout bearing being put on backwards cause the clutch to not fully disengage even with the turnbuckle adjusted all the way in? I know this is hard to explain and I didnt snap any pictures. Long story short we got the tractor reassembled to point where we could do a controlled test run and the clutch pedal would not disengage the clutch no matter how far we turned in the adjustment turnbuckle. And I am curious if that fork being reassembled "backwards" could be the cause. Pretty depressing. Stripped everything back down except the bellhousong bolts to try again tomorrow.

Sadly yes on that model it can be put in backwards and so can the throw out bearing.

 

[trial and error]

Sadly yes on that model it can be put in backwards and so can the throw out bearing.

Thanks as always NIW. I'm almost positive the throwout bearing was put on correctly, as that was very obvious. And also becuase it was done within minutes of removing the old one but to confirm the fatter face should be facing out? I also looked at the hammer marks from beating it off to confirm the direction of putting on the new one which we did gently with a deadbkow after freezing the shaft, last weekend. I will confirm tomorrow. The fork very well could be in backwards (I'm hoping it is) because we took all that apart a week ago. We put it on the bench sitting in the position we thought it went based on wear/clean marks that lined up with the fork and "shaft" , but in putting that whole assembly back up into place which is a chore, it is very possible it got turned around. The IPL gives a pretty accurate picture of which way it should be so assuming the IPL on Messicks site is correct I'll go with that.

 

[cthomas]

Not to kick a person when down, but, if the fork arm for the throw-out bearing is in backwards. At least you lived up to your screen name.

 

[trial and error]

Not to kick a person when down, but, if the fork arm for the throw-out bearing is in backwards. At least you lived up to your screen name.

That's fair, but that part was my father, I can't get my gorrilla hands in the access hole under the trans housing

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

That's fair, but that part was my father, I can't get my gorrilla hands in the access hole under the trans housing

EDIT:
I totally forgot that they put the clutch fork in the tunnel behind the clutch assembly case.
I went and took a couple photos and it does appear that he has it in backwards, the plus is to fix it you don't have to split it!
Just pull the clutch linkage rod out and flip the fork and reassemble.

 

[trial and error]

Ok here's where I am at and I hope it makes sense. We took it all apart this afternoon reassembled with the clutch fork (throwout bearing fork) reversed to what I believe is correct, did not snap any pictures with it apart and should have so I apoliflgoze for that. I seem to have a clutch that dissengages now, in that we can put the tractor. In gear (not running didn't do any extra work) to confirm clutch function) push the clutch pedal all the way and the clutch disengages and the tractor will roll. The pedal still has way more travel then it should, but I believe that is another issue as follows. I believe the bracket on the shaft that slips through the fork has been bent and tweaked over the years causing the pedal to have to travel extremely far to disengage. My solution to this rather then take everything apart and order a new shaft/bracket will be to fabricobble something to move both the adjustment turnbuckle fork and return spring back to regain some travel in the adjustment and get the clutch pedal to something near normal. I know this is not a "kosher" fix and is barely even a farm fix but I'm at a loss as to what else to do. The throwut bearing definately has more "throw" with the throwout/clutch fork turned around and now dissengages the clutch which I did not have yesterday.
The old clutch was worn almost to the rivets so it was definately "shot".


Note: we did not completely remove the plow/loader subframe from the tractor to do the split we just removed the 3 bolts from each side of the rear axle and slid it forawd still attached to the engine end of things. We also did not remove the driveshaft we simply slid it out of the front collar/universal joint and left it attached with the drift pin to the rear universal joint. That left it dangling and in the way in the access hole where the throw out bearing sleeve slides over the output shaft that is what made it difficult to reach my hand in there to slide the fork on and remove the bolt and small spring.

Below are some pictures of the throwout bearing fork the shaft/bracket that the clutch pedal attaches to and the old clutch. I've put a red arrow on one of the pictures indicating the part which I think is distorted causing the Long oedal throw. My plan is to make a peice of steel bolted into the two original holes (one for the spring and one for the turnbuckle) to move that turnbuckle and spring back so I regain some adjustment and hopefully don't have as fat of a throw in the clutch oedaln

 

[trial and error]

Edit: I added the IPL with the clutch rod, (# 11) forgot to add that screenshot earlier

Got the whole thing split again, the fork turned around inspected the motor plate, and back together (not anywhere near running) in two hours after work, I'm getting too good at this. Anyway with the clutch fork switched it makes no difference on oedal travel to dissengage the clutch its almost identical to yesterday if not identical.

The picture I took of the fork flipped today is terrible so you will have to take my word for it
I'll also include some pictures of the clutch area, and I don't think any motor plate is bent or distorted correct me of I'm wrong but I just don't see it
I an still pretty convinced the "clutch rod" # 11 on the parts diagram I've attached is distorted/twisted the parts diagram shows a fairly straight plane coming from the shaft that goes through the fork down to the clutch pedal and return spring attachment points, yes there is a jog but I can't imagine it looks like mine. Mine is twisted and although I'm not positive I think this is exaggerating my pedal throw.

 

[Russell King]

is there some adjustment on the pressure plate that should be done before you go back together?

Can you find a picture of a new ”clutch rod” to compare to yours?

 

[trial and error]

is there some adjustment on the pressure plate that should be done before you go back together?

Can you find a picture of a new ”clutch rod” to compare to yours?

I really don't know if the pressure plate fingers have any adjustment, but from what I've read they come pre set.
As for the clutch rod the only picture I can find is in the IPL I will put up in the last post (I forgot)

 

[AOW162435]

Anything helpful in this link?

Clutch


Andreas