4wd b7100 manual trans, clutch. Update #2 it moves under its own power

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Let's see if I did this right. Forgive the heavy breathing it is 90 something degrees in the garage 9 o'clock at night and otherwise silent in there besides my loud mouth breathing lol

Video of hand spinning the throw out bearing

throwout bearing kubita b7100

m.youtube.com

Yep that is right!

 

[trial and error]

Yes they should be pre set
To adjust, you would remove the cotter pin and then loosen or tighten castle nut.
If you still have it apart post a picture of the throw-out bearing.


View attachment 107006

Ok here is where I'm at with this. With the clutch disc installed between the pressure plate and flywheel and the bolts securing the pressure plate torqued down I get 1-3/4 inches (as exact as I can measure with a tape measure) from the ywheel to the outter most part of the pressure plate fingers. In theory I need to back these out a smidgen. However with the clutch installed the stud that the castle nut is threaded onto spins freely making adjustment difficult If not impossible. With the clutch disk removed and the pressure plate installed the same way (mounting bolts torqued I get around 2-1/4 inches to the same places. It seems obvious that I need the clutch disc installed to get an accurate measurement (correct me if I'm wrong) now with the disc installed how to I keep the stud from spinning with the castle nut? Or do I have to remove the pressure plate and go a half turn or some other amount at a time so the tension holds the stud still. I feel like I'm missing something major here.

 

[Russell King]

I think there is a slot in the end of the stud. Put a screwdriver in the slot and hold it still when adjusting the nut.

It is probably best to use a box end wrench but it will require you to put wrench on nut then screwdriver into slot. Or put wrench on the screwdriver shank then insert screwdriver into the slot and then slide wrench onto the nut and adjust it.

 

[trial and error]

I think there is a slot in the end of the stud. Put a screwdriver in the slot and hold it still when adjusting the nut.

It is probably best to use a box end wrench but it will require you to put wrench on nut then screwdriver into slot. Or put wrench on the screwdriver shank then insert screwdriver into the slot and then slide wrench onto the nut and adjust it.

Im pretty sure I saw a screwdriver slot, but wasn't sure, I will look closer, that's kind of what I was thinking had to happen., and thank you for confirming. That's gonna be interesting, I will try to get the fingers to just over 1.75 inches without going to far. Hopefully this is the last time o have to tear this thing apart.

 

[trial and error]

Update: finally got the two halves married for what should be the last time. Fought it a lot last night and after a little more fighting tonight trying to get the two halves to join I decided something was very wrong. Separated it again and took the input shaft out of the rear end and used it to see if we had the clutch centered, of course we didn't so I unbolted the pressure plate and had my pregnant wife hold the imput shaft and use it as a clutch alignment tool, ok that problem is solved this thing should fall together like it did the last 3 times, nope still fought us for an hour then finally started joining together although still not as easily as the other three times. Anyway she's together(ish) (the tractor not the wife) and we tested the clutch without it running and the pedal is wayyyy better still not in my opinion perfect but the slop in the pedal is soo much less. Turns out one turn in on each clutch finger bolt made a huge difference, I probably coulda gone a little more but with the adjustment rod all the way backed off on the pedal the clutch linkage and pedal travel are at least close to what they should be, and I'm not splitting this thing again, if I have to make a extension for the linkage that's the route I'll go as I think the arm where the clutch linkage connects is still a little tweaked, but I dont wanna try bending it any more for fear of breaking it., hopefully some time tomorrow I'll be able to post a video of it moving under its own power and hopefully with no extra bad noises from the clutch area.
Thanks to everyone for their input, without it I would still be struggling.

 

[Russell King]

I’m sure your wife won’t even remember having to help (in a hundred years?)

Glad you have it resolved and working.

 

[AOW162435]

Fingers crossed for a successful shake down cruise!

Andreas

 

[trial and error]

It moves under its own power and the clutch feels good, I'm actually quite happy with the pedal travel.

Still have some buttoning up to do. Final check of the fluids, grease the throwout bearing sleeve, put the side covers on and then put the loader back on. Hopefully by the end of the day I can put this project behind me.

 

[trial and error]

After some flying loader acrobatics she's all back together and running

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

You'll need to check the free travel again after a little use.
It's very common for things to set and the adjustment to change in a short time.
You don't want the throw out bearing to ride or for the clutch to not completely disengage/ or engage.