1984 L345DT Refurbishment

[DSDispatch]

I missed this post.

Someone could not have bypassed the solenoid, as that is required to engage the bendix (gear Drive) for it to start.
What they have done is added a second solenoid that is more than likely feeding power to the first solenoid.
You can very easily check the starter and the starters solenoid and jump it like you are doing to the top solenoid.
Just jump from the battery cable on the starter to the small solenoid terminal.

Can you speculate why someone would have added a second solenoid?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Can you speculate why someone would have added a second solenoid?

There are mutiple reasons that someone would add the second solenoid.
#1 would be the stock wire was not delivering enough amps to engage the stock solenoid.
#2 ( should still be #1) someone had no clue how to fix it properly.

 

[Runs With Scissors]

Nice find for sure.

Looks like a fun project.

That oil “leak” does not look to bad to me though.

I would probably wash it with a degreaser, and “monitor” it, too how bad it really is.

I personally tend to not fix “slight weepers” that don’t leave a puddle. Sometimes you can open a “can of worms” for no good reason. But thats a personal preference thing I suppose.

Good luck, and keep the pics coming.

 

[DSDispatch]

I have a similar L185 that is smaller. The front bumper looks exactly like yours. I bought the 55 pond weights for mine from the dealer. I think that 70 pound weights might fit.

There is a place to bolt them down, I just used a common bolt, nut and two flat washers.

I’ll try to post a picture later, can’t find one now

Any pic would be greatly appreciated. There are some tractor weights available for sale in my area on FB marketplace, but I'm not exactly sure the appropriate style to purchase.

 

[DSDispatch]

She cleaned up pretty well after the first bath, but another soak is in order.

I was a little nervous about power washing the engine, but seems like avoiding direct spray on electronics, putting a bag over the alternator, and letting the Simple Green soak for 5-10 minutes will suite it fine.

I ordered some pre-1989 blue chassis paint and will begin touch ups after another cleaning.

Any guidance on the correct style of suitcase weights for this model? Can someone point me to a picture of them?


Hopefully these gauges will come to life when I redo the electrical system. It appears the previous owner just cut the seat safety switch wire and unplugged the dash wiring - who knows, maybe it can be salvaged.

What gauge wire do you use for the system? I imagine it's 2ga for the battery leads, 14 for basic energizers, and something in the middle for power to the glow plugs? Any guidance there? I've printed the service manual and plan to laminate a blown-up copy of the wiring diagram to make life easier. Ordered a new starter and alternator too. Will probably replace the fuse box with a blade type and pick up another voltage regulator to have a spare. Ignition switch should arrive soon as the key in the current one just spins.

 

[Russell King]

On the weights, I was just at the property and completely forgot to take the picture. But will try to remember Saturday when I get back out there again.

The schematic shows the metric wire size in mm squared. There is a term ”AV” in front of the number but I can’t remember what that stands for. After the number is the color code. Here is a sample of the schematic with a highlight on the marks

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

There will not be a seat or PTO safety switch on that tractor.
I'm pretty sure the only safety switch was the clutch pedal.

 

[Russell King]

I am also (pretty) sure the tachometer is mechanically driven and that there is a small light for night use that is the only electrical part of that.

The cable might be broken or the drive on the engine might be broken.

 

[DSDispatch]

There will not be a seat or PTO safety switch on that tractor.
I'm pretty sure the only safety switch was the clutch pedal.

This cut wire is headed to the back, but just terminates on the left rear. Perhaps the unit was equipped with the hazard flashers and they were removed at some point? The holes are in the fenders. The parts diagram shows wiring headed to the fenders, so i guess that's it

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Look at the color of the wire and match the wiring diagram.
Probably tail light

 

[chim]

According to the web the AV 0.5 Black is a 20GA AWG vinyl insulated black wire. The AV 20 Black is a #4 AWG Black wire:

Google Search

 

[DSDispatch]

Still making a list of all the things to sort! As I said before, the engine still needs another cleaning, but it being dirty did allow me to notice this oil weeping out from around one of the injectors. Is this a simple pull, replace a seal, and replace?

 

[DSDispatch]

The 40amp slow blow fuse on the firewall seems to be an issue in the electrical system. It appears that corrosion can get the best of this one. Any recommendations for what replacement to use? Amazon has so many options.

 

[Russell King]

Still making a list of all the things to sort! As I said before, the engine still needs another cleaning, but it being dirty did allow me to notice this oil weeping out from around one of the injectors. Is this a simple pull, replace a seal, and replace?

There is a copper washer between the injectors and the head. It could be the problem and is easy to replace. Just clean it well before you remove the injector and then clean the surface on the head also, it may have stuff burnt onto it.

Use a 6 point socket if you can, I recall the top part with the hose connections can be removed to get to the body hex.

Expect the hoses to split.