16' Equipment Trailer ???

[Dan_R_42]

I'm looking to pickup a 16' equipment trailer for multiple uses. One use would be to transport my B7100-D w/ B219 loader & ARPS backhoe.

Thinking ahead to the future, I'm wondering what would be the largest Kubota tractor with the same equipment that I could safely haul if I were to up size equipment.

I really don't want to go with an 18' trailer if I don't have to, but I don't want to be short sighted in my purchase decision either. Looking for some opinions on what others are using for their smaller size tractors .

Dan

 

[85Hokie]

I'm looking to pickup a 16' equipment trailer for multiple uses. One use would be to transport my B7100-D w/ B219 loader & ARPS backhoe.

Thinking ahead to the future, I'm wondering what would be the largest Kubota tractor with the same equipment that I could safely haul if I were to up size equipment.

I really don't want to go with an 18' trailer if I don't have to, but I don't want to be short sighted in my purchase decision either. Looking for some opinions on what others are using for their smaller size tractors .

Dan

Typically, a 16' will haul dang near anything you will stick on it until you get pass the 7,000 lbs or so. What you need to worry about more is the stopping and braking of the trailer. Make sure that your truck/SUV can handle that weight and make sure that you have brakes on at least one axle - some states require brakes on both axles. I would think that a 16' will handle something up to the L series - once you start loading those tires, the weight starts to get crazy high. Remember that the gross weight of the trailer is what is will handle INCLUDING the weight of the trailer itself!

the one you are looking at or showed picture of will allow a little fudge room for loaders or backhoes and any other stuff! How high you thinking of going in the Kubota line?

 

[Tooljunkie]

My .02 cents worth.
You can never have a trailer thats too big. But a trailer that is too small can be a hassle.
If i had a choice, i would be looking for the biggest trailer my truck could handle-within reason of course.

Deck on mine is 14 feet, way too short for a lot of things i want to move, yet somehow i find a way to make it work.

 

[Daren Todd]

Pay attention to the axles. They will determine how much weight you can haul. Seen some that were heavier built then the one I have but had the same gvw as mine due to having the same size axles as my trailer. Trailer could only haul 4000lbs instead of 5500. Load rating on the tires is important. My trailer is a 7000 gvw. Has two 3500lb axles under it. The tires that came on it only had a load rating of 2500lbs. So with the trailer weight of 1500 lbs, I could only haul 3500 lbs on the trailer. First thing I did was put a better set of tires with a 3500lb load rating to max the trailer. I can haul 5500 lbs on the trailer. If you want to haul 7000 lbs on your trailer, your gonna need 5000lb axles on it and the really beafy tires

 

[Wbk]

I'm looking to pickup a 16' equipment trailer for multiple uses. One use would be to transport my B7100-D w/ B219 loader & ARPS backhoe.

Thinking ahead to the future, I'm wondering what would be the largest Kubota tractor with the same equipment that I could safely haul if I were to up size equipment.

I really don't want to go with an 18' trailer if I don't have to, but I don't want to be short sighted in my purchase decision either. Looking for some opinions on what others are using for their smaller size tractors .

Dan

Hi Dan I had a trailer built a year and a half ago, it's much like the one in the pictures. I have a 16'X6' deck,stow under ramps, stake pockets and I added rub rails also the little headache rack, 2 axle brakes, 2-3500lbs 4" drop axles with radial tires and LED lights. I had an extra cross member added for more floor beef, once the frame was built its was sent out and galvanized. I haul my bx 2660 with loader and snow blower without any problems. The frame is 5" C channel with 3" C channel X members. The cost to have it custom built was $3800 CDN. The only thing I'm not happy with is my choice of jack which is a light duty folding jack but it can easily be replaced. Hope this helps your decision. Barry

 

[Dan_R_42]

Typically, a 16' will haul dang near anything you will stick on it until you get pass the 7,000 lbs or so. What you need to worry about more is the stopping and braking of the trailer.

I would think that a 16' will handle something up to the L series - once you start loading those tires, the weight starts to get crazy high. Remember that the gross weight of the trailer is what is will handle INCLUDING the weight of the trailer itself!

the one you are looking at or showed picture of will allow a little fudge room for loaders or backhoes and any other stuff! How high you thinking of going in the Kubota line?

85Hokie, Trailers I'm interested in are 8000# capacity, with brakes on both axles. My van has a 10K max tow rating. I would think that a much larger B series or a small L series would be my max tractor upgrade.

tooljunkie, I hear what you are saying about the size. My biggest issue is living on a very narrow street, it would be an issue to back the longer trailer off the street, getting into my driveway.

Daren, Great point about the tires. I will be sure to be aware of load rating. I'm still on the fence re: bias ply vs. radials, any opinions on which to go with and why?

Wbk, The stake pockets are something I really want. This would allow me to add sides to haul occasional fill, stone, or mulch. I'm not familiar with your "rub rails or the little headache rack" do you have any photos of those mods?

Thanks for the input guys...

 

[Wbk]

85Hokie, Trailers I'm interested in are 8000# capacity, with brakes on both axles. My van has a 10K max tow rating. I would think that a much larger B series or a small L series would be my max tractor upgrade.

tooljunkie, I hear what you are saying about the size. My biggest issue is living on a very narrow street, it would be an issue to back the longer trailer off the street, getting into my driveway.

Daren, Great point about the tires. I will be sure to be aware of load rating. I'm still on the fence re: bias ply vs. radials, any opinions on which to go with and why?

Wbk, The stake pockets are something I really want. This would allow me to add sides to haul occasional fill, stone, or mulch. I'm not familiar with your "rub rails or the little headache rack" do you have any photos of those mods?

Thanks for the input guys...

Hi Dan my trailer isn't at home, the rub rails are a flat bar that is welded to the stake pockets to give them more strengh and you have more options to tie down ( same as a highway flat deck trailer). In one of the pictures you have the trailer has a little wall at the front that's a headache rack of sorts, you can make it detachable if you add stake pockets to the front of the trailer

 

[bh115577]

85Hokie, Trailers I'm interested in are 8000# capacity, with brakes on both axles. My van has a 10K max tow rating. I would think that a much larger B series or a small L series would be my max tractor upgrade.

tooljunkie, I hear what you are saying about the size. My biggest issue is living on a very narrow street, it would be an issue to back the longer trailer off the street, getting into my driveway.

Daren, Great point about the tires. I will be sure to be aware of load rating. I'm still on the fence re: bias ply vs. radials, any opinions on which to go with and why?

Wbk, The stake pockets are something I really want. This would allow me to add sides to haul occasional fill, stone, or mulch. I'm not familiar with your "rub rails or the little headache rack" do you have any photos of those mods?

Thanks for the input guys...

I've got a 12' landscape trailer and a 20' deckover. The longer trailer is much easier to back into tight spaces than the shorter one. Just something to think about.

 

[PHPaul]

bh115577's point about backing is well taken. The longer the distance between the hitch ball and the trailer axle, the easier it is to back.

At the moment, I have 3 trailers: an 18 foot equipment trailer, a 10 foot "landscaping" trailer and an 8 foot cargo trailer.

That little 8 footer will jackknife on ya in the time it takes to look from the right mirror to the left mirror. I can put the 18 footer into a hole with 6" to spare on either side in one pass.

 

[85Hokie]

bh115577's point about backing is well taken. The longer the distance between the hitch ball and the trailer axle, the easier it is to back.

At the moment, I have 3 trailers: an 18 foot equipment trailer, a 10 foot "landscaping" trailer and an 8 foot cargo trailer.

That little 8 footer will jackknife on ya in the time it takes to look from the right mirror to the left mirror. I can put the 18 footer into a hole with 6" to spare on either side in one pass.

Amen on that - longer is easier, I have a 14' double axle I can put anywhere I need to, but the short 8 footer is a PITA , I have to make small and calculated "twitches" to make it go where I want to!

 

[DanDan]

... Looking for some opinions on what others are using for their smaller size tractors .

Dan

One or two things to consider with the style of trailer you showed:

• ramp spacing- are the fold-up ramps adjustable for spread/distance? I play around with the spacing a lot.
• overhang- might the fold-up ramps prevent you from loading something that might hang a little but would be otherwise legal?

We bought an 18'/10k rated trailer to haul everything from riding mowers to our BX1860 and L2600.

 

[ShaunRH]

I bought a new Big Text CH60 for a little over $2K. 6000# capacity total or about 4500# actual capacity. That will handle my little L3200 nicely.

I added the box and the stake sides...

It's the 16' variant and the ramps slide into side facing rear pocket and are lockable. The ramps can change the loading spacing. I'm going to add stabilizer jacks to the back for loading. I don't trust ball hitches not to lift the truck back end up!

 

[PHPaul]

I'm going to add stabilizer jacks to the back for loading. I don't trust ball hitches not to lift the truck back end up!

I did that on my 18' trailer. MAJOR improvement.

I also added a Reese receiver on the tongue to plug in my portable winch for winching dead vehicles or other rolling items up onto the trailer. I have one on my 10 footer as well. Handier than a pocket on a shirt.

 

[ShaunBlake]

Paul, is that a 2x4 under the foot?

Do you need to shim it (I expect when the tractor's/vehile's weight hit the stabilizer, it would bottom out before putting any strain on the ball, no?

I've been thinking of adding them to my trailer, and was noodling electric screw jacks or maybe hydraulics. Your setup is simple, and could be very inexpensive.

 

[PHPaul]

Actually a piece of 4x4, but yes, I do have to shim it, depending on the exact attitude of the truck and trailer.

I'm limited in how long I can make the jack foot due to the angle iron top rail immediately above the assembly. If I had to do it over again, I'd move the mount outboard enough to clear the top rail and make the jack leg about 6 or 8 inches longer.

In extreme cases, the rear of the trailer will squat about 6 inches before the top of the jack hits the pin and stops the trailer moving, but it still greatly reduces the distance the back of the truck lifts.

 

[Dan_R_42]

OK, back again for more advise. I am seriously considering the attached 16' trailer, but I am wondering/concerned about possible ground clearance issues, as it is built low to the ground.

This "Load Trail" trailer is designed a a car carrier/ medium duty equipment hauler with "Drop Chambered Dexter" axles. What are your experiences with similar trailers with regard to ground clearance issues. I'm not wanting to be dragging bottom too often.

What issues have you had when transporting smaller rigs?

Thanks, Dan

 

[Daren Todd]

Dan, what's the actual clearance on the trailer?

Looks like a similar height to my Dakota trailer. I have a dove tail on mine that sits around 12" off the ground at the back. Had to go with a 2" drop on the hitch to level it out. Before the drop, the dove tail sat 6" off the ground Only time I've dragged it is leaving the industrial complex I work in with the tractor loaded. Theres a steep drop where the two roads meet and the back will drag if I go straight off and then turn. If there's no traffic and I can hit it at a slight angle then there isn't an issue.

 

[Tooljunkie]

forgive my artwork, but i dont have a picture. This is a spring loaded pin that releases with 1/2 turn. Pipe over pin is cut 10-15 degrees and half welded to bracket and other to pin. Spring is held in with a roll pin or a washer welded onto pin. Weld that over reciever tube and drill inner tube with as many holes as needed.
You cant lose pin
Pops under load
Drop legs wont fall in transport
Will lock into any hole selected- like self adjusting.
Can be used to level trailer with tongue jack.

 

[Dan_R_42]

Dan, what's the actual clearance on the trailer?

Looks like a similar height to my Dakota trailer. I have a dove tail on mine that sits around 12" off the ground at the back. Had to go with a 2" drop on the hitch to level it out. Before the drop, the dove tail sat 6" off the ground Only time I've dragged it is leaving the industrial complex I work in with the tractor loaded. Theres a steep drop where the two roads meet and the back will drag if I go straight off and then turn. If there's no traffic and I can hit it at a slight angle then there isn't an issue.

Daren, I'm waiting for the sales guy to get back to me with measurements. I believe it should be about 12" from ground to bottom of rear chassis/ frame, but want to confirm to be sure. It sure looked much lower when I looked at it the other day. Enough for it to become a concern for me. Maybe I'm just biased by having much higher trailers in the past.

 

[coachgeo]

Lowest center of gravity you can get for the conditions trailer will see use the better.