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Well, there it is, my mistake.:oops: But then again, I thought that we were talking about a box blade for a B series tractor. If you can show 5 foot box blade that would typically be used for a B series tractor that costs $7,000, please do. :unsure:

Please, please provide a link to a 7-8K box blade. This is something that I really want to see. o_O

To start with, try using the upper holes in the lower clevises on the 2 side links. You are at the upper limits of the tractor's hitch, so you might need to fudge the hydraulic pressure a bit. Good luck. :)

look at the link below. This helps you to determine what you need for your hydraulic top link. https://www.fitritehydraulics.com/toplink.html You will also need a way to control that top link, so you will need a rear remote also.

Here ya go. https://www.hydraulicstore.com/hydraulic/quick-couplers/hydraulic/flat-face/connect-under-pressure/couplers?page=1

I have yet to see a hydraulic link retract on its own when there is weight pulling it out. You would have to have a constant pressure pushing inward and a really, really poor quality control valve. I suppose if everything was just right it could happen, but 99.9999% sure that it would not. ;)...

You would normally disconnect the rod end coupler only.

Yes it can be done in that fashion, but to do it clean and neat and have enough room are all different conditions for different machines. My typical answer would be that "I do not recommend it" So far, the best solution to meet both needs that I have come up with is to have an electric...

While this is true, but when you are doing other tasks that require a constant held adjustment, then it is beneficial to have that option without having to either disconnect the coupler or switching back to the manual link. I have customers that have leak down issues that are extreme, like 3" of...

Assuming that you are talking about your MX5100? Not your other tractors? Look at the following link. https://www.fitritehydraulics.com/toplink.html The asked-for dimension should be close ( plus or minus ) to what the top link is when halfway extended. I have found that a working length of...

Maybe 90s at the couplers to get the hoses pointed down? Then you have an issue hitting the quick hitch when tilted further forward though. :oops: The coupler location is the issue. You might simply have them the best that they are going to be with what you have? :unsure:

Something like this? :unsure: Here is the manufacturer. https://www.controlgrips.com/grips/

The top link and side links are the same as the L4200 up to the L4802. I'm guessing that all of the 3pt hitch parts from these models will work for you.

Curved is fine, if not desirable. I have 2 Land planes, both have curved cutting edges.

Use to be called "Packard Blue" , just a new name for the same thing. A little darker than Midnight Blue. Happens to be my favorite vehicle color. :cool:

Regardless of other issues, get flow restrictors for both cylinders. They simply make life better. .030 for 2" cylinders, .045 for 2 1/2" cylinders and .060 for 3" cylinders. https://www.boltonhooks.com/hydraulic-flow-restrictors/

The issue with Pat's QH is the small if any amount of articulation. The Euro hook ends can be welded onto any draft link end or extendable end. So, yes they are available for your tractor. The balls have 50* of articulation plus or minus a degree or two. I'm relatively sure that your implements...

Euro hook draft link ends. They allow for lots of articulation

2" cylinder with a working length of 20"-29" is ideal, but anything close works well. ;)

Draft control can be beneficial with both your box blade and your rear blade. Pretty much anything that has a cutting edge that puts a drag on the tractor and is connected to the 3pt hitch. Learn when and how to use it and life will be better. I believe that an exception to the cutting edge...