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It should be ethylene glycol. You can't go by the color. I'm not aware of any magic ingredients, so auto parts, tractor supply, dealer should work.

Something to think about while getting ready to go under the tarps. It is nice and cleaned. Should have some sort of oxidation protection. Gun oil, vaseline, something of the sort so that it doesn't go backwards.

Let me offer a suggestion, because I don't know the answer. The digs in the cylinder walls are discontinuities that provide a starting point for cracks given temperature variations while running. Filling by welding introduces its own problems in this situation, due to heating and material...

The rule is that work expands to fill the time available.

I don't know about Canada, but I do know in California there is a theory called "attractive nuisance." So if a kid trespasses and finds an unlocked tractor, starts up the tractor and maims or kills the kid, the owner of the tractor or landowner or both are responsible because they should have...

Russell has given really good advice. If anything hiccups, the shop (will, can) claim that it it not their fault but yours. Also, shops like to do the "whole job" and not little jobs because of overhead. Russell has given us something to think about.

While you're looking for a solution to the sleeves - Are they (shop) machine capable; does their tool maintain accuracy in three dimensions? Is the machinist capable?

The vendor on Amazon shows a very low positive score. So two worries - will it arrive with no problems; and, will it perform so that the job is done. I would not scrimp on the gaskets. Enjoying watching your progress.

Do you know where to find it out where to look? Follow the PTO shaft back to the mower gear box, near the universal coupling. Holes will line up such that a bolt with washer and nut will transmit torsion of the PTO to the shaft from the gearbox on the mower. Easy way is to purchase a package...

If the blades are sharpened, can they be balanced? Recommended to change the bolts for the blades because of the torque when tightening them.

The usual tendency is to keep working until the gauge goes into the red. BUT, it's the thermal movement of the head and gasket which will shortly crack the head. Repeated work at less than red zone can be just as bad as one red zone event. A lot of misery and down time can be avoided by taking...

Next I would clean evaporator and condenser with outside coil cleaner. I would also use my little hand held air flow meter to see if air is sufficient for heat transfer both evap and condenser. Water misting says that efficiency is not there yet.

Agree with DustyRusty's comments. I wonder if the expansion valve is working. Need to take temperatures on both sides upstream and downstream of the valve to troubleshoot.

It's alive! Congratulations on your work. Agree that free alternator test is the thing to do. Also, many times it is corrosion or loose connections that are the real problem. Battery cables (plus and minus) can be corroded from the inside if the crimp terminals have let moisture in.

If you helicoil the hole and it does leak, just use a gasket washer under the bolt head. No big deal. Use a good bright light to look into the drain hole. If that doesn't work, then get a small borescope. They make these to work with some cell phones now. Inexpensive. Another alternative is to...

Skipping over the diagnostics that indicate a new compressor. If the system is opened, then the filter/dryer needs replacing. If the old compressor dumped junk in the system, all of that needs to be cleaned out with approved cleaners. Dry nitrogen with nitrogen regulator to purge system while...

I'm not saying do this - just another possibility. Some of the protective covering looks melted. If the conductors underneath are OK, then it's not a big job replacing the covering. Damaged conductors can be spliced; heat shrinked; or electrical tape wrapped. Then protective covering. Or, cut...

If you're talking about the hydraulic oil filler cap, a Kubota "Plug" 38240-21410, Messicks has the Kubota part. The O-ring is 04817-50300, ordered separately.

When going into the creek, the machine needs to be shut down before it gets water into the cylinders. Water being incompressible, the connecting rods will have to give. After pulling the machine out of the water, glow plugs or the like need to be pulled out so that by hand cranking the water...

The real diagnostic test to to measure and record high and low pressures; and, temperatures. However, if it cools for half an hour and them goes warm, the first place to look is air flow (cleanliness). Even if the condenser is clean, if it is not getting sufficient air flow it cannot do the...