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L10, L30 and L40 series tractors have had problems with the 4wd shaft seals leaking. You will need to split the tractor, remove the seals and the shaft. There will be rubber lined bushings on the shaft that will need replaced and the seals will need replaced. It can be a little challenging...

Not sure but I think the sensor is on the side of the transmission, in the side of the case.

If you are losing coolant and there are no external leaks you need to check the radiator. I have seen tractors overheat after 15 hours of running. WHEN A KUBOTA OVERHEATS IT CRACKS A HEAD. Almost every time

I would say it is not a good idea. These mowers already have hydro problems, no need to go and add an accessory to give it more of a chance of failure. Dont just tap into it any old plug- you might get 4000 psi of hydro pressure. The charge pump is what is used to operate the lift and you...

nope, no brake lights

The wheel is a bleeder at the injection pump. it has a hose that runs to the tank so you can bleed the air from the line. Open the wheel and run it for 3 minutes. All the air should bleed out.

Sounds like a clutch problem. It isnt disengaging properly. Not a lot you can do until you split it and check it out

Its a cv style joint so if the boot is torn the grease will come out and dirt will get in. Pull the floor pan off to access the shaft to remove it. Boots are about 3 bucks each

Looks like an L30 series third function kit. The pipes are all included in the kit, you just have to use the correct one for the model tractor you have. The relays, solenoid, control handle, couplers all look like they are for an L series tractor.

If you have a BX24 or newer BX series tractor the easiest way to change the fan is to loosen the engine and pick it up enough to move it forward far enough so that you can remove the engine to transmission driveshaft. It isnt a terribly large amount of work but you will need something to lift...

I've seen and heard of these units pushing hyd oil out of the rear axle vent because the park brake seal overheated and burned up causing the hydraulic oil to be pumped into the rear axle. The rear axle uses gear oil so if you are getting hyd oil coming out, something is definitely wrong.

I believe that model also has orings and backup rings at the pivot of the axle. Doesnt that model have the driveshaft offset from the center pivot? Is it leaking at the drive shaft or at the pivot?

I'd have to agree with that mechanic, we sell a fair amount of that series tractor and have had zero HST problems. Glad to see it was taken care of.

On a lot of Kubota tractors the remote valve kits will tee into the loader or hitch pressure lines. If you have an open center valve you need a pressure line, power beyond line and a zero pressure return (goes to the tank or reservoir.) If you use your loader power beyond line, hook it to your...

It was running when the bleeder was open because it was using the fuel that was coming in that little line to run at a low speed. Glad you figured it out.

Silly me, what was I thinking.

What an interesting argument...er...discussion this has turned into. Apparently everyone has an opinion on filters as they do about oil itself. Speaking of opinions: Cut a filter open- you can tell quality by the amount of media and its condition. If you don't see any dirt or metal it means...

If you want to talk filters, get 2 to compare and cut them open. You can easily tell what is better really quick. Check out the paper in a fram filter- cheapest thing out there.

Go back to your dealer and ask for super udt2. It is the new oil that is out, it is better, and is actually cheaper. I would stick with the best thing you can find for that model especially if it is an HST.

I call that seal the hub pivot seal.