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Sir Chief, the BX models are the "gentlemen's" tractors and are the low end of the Kubota line. The B models are next up, unless it the TLB model of B's, then the L's etc. Not really sure what one is worth, but it sounds like a fun little machine to have around!

Mr. K pointed you in the right direction! To sum it up, a Gray market Kubota is ANY Kubota not made for the US market. That means, Japan or (JDM), Australia, England, Europe, China, or anywhere else! I think the most common imports you will see will be ones from the JDM market space. See the...

One other thing, you'll first want to check here for a parts manual so you can give them correct part number for your tractor.

You can try here, but don't expect a speedy reply. They do get back to you, but don't light any fires doing it.

The only stupid question is the one that doesn't get asked! I guess you could rig up some type of pump, perhaps even a 12v pump, but I don't know that you'd find one rated for that kind of duty. Maybe someone else has seen a pump that fits one of those little beasts.

If I remember correctly that engine is cooled by passive circulation of the antifreeze, so no water pump...if I'm wrong, someone slap me upside the head!

Does the tractor bog down when you try to go up the curb, or does it sit there like the clutch is still engaged? If so, it might be your throwout bearing causing the clutch to stay engaged, or at least mostly engaged. If so, don't keep the tractor running, because it will polish your clutch...

Sounds like you need an extension on your socket and a bigger cheater bar! You could also try an impact wrench if one is available, but I prefer not to use them if I can help it. Not sure if any WD would help or not, but I'm sure it wouldn't hurt. Give her a soak for a day or 2.

If anyone has a WSM for the B8200HST 4WD let me know.

The drain plugs are usually at the back of the transmission, but may be near the rear tires. My B8200 has 2 of them, but only one needs to be removed for proper drain of the tranny/3pt (it is just one big hydraulic reservoir). I can't remember on the B7100 if you need to remove both of the...

I currently don't have one, but I'll take a pic and post it for you.

Those model numbers are for US market tractors. They are older models and I've not seen one with factory ROPS. Perhaps someone saw the tractor and assumed that without ROPS it must be gray market. I don't think that is the case with your tractor. You could take the serial number off the...

I've been building a rock wall with 3.5 foot rocks and my little 8200...well almost. It wont even roll those things! For now I have an old Ford with a loader and I get on the front edges of the rocks with both machines and just go back and forth between tractors to tip the rocks into position...

Congrats Mr. OB1. I've sure enjoyed learning from your posts. Thanks for taking the time to help out some of us bone heads when we can't figure out what is going on with our little Orange Tractors!

Like Vic said, not too hard to do, but use caution and take a few pics when you take it apart. This will help you remember how the seals go back in place. Most cylinders use the chevron style seals, which can be a little tight going back in place. Grease them up real good and it helps...

By removing the strainer you will get almost all the oil out of the tractor. Probably not worth fidgeting around with a hand pump at that point. Just refill to the recommended level. Of course you could chock up the rear tires and slightly offset the tractor with a higher chock on the...

Good call on the rear tire ballast eserv! It will help you have a lower center of gravity, thus making it a little harder to tip over, and it will improve your traction! You can do it easily yourself with a little 50/50 mix of water and washer fluid, and a hose adapter, or you can take it to...

I'm assuming that by valve clearance they are talking about the space between the valve stem and the rocker arm? If that is the case, like eserve said, it shouldn't be much of a problem with a set of feeler gauges and a new valve cover gasket.

One other thing to consider, and perhaps you are already doing this, but it takes a good 20 secs to get any glowing from the indicator, and 30-40 seconds to really get the thing bright. I think even on the new tractors Kubota recommends about a 30 second (or more, depending on temp) preheat of...

Sounds like that will be a good machine for you. Going up and down hills is usually not much of a problem. You can really get them pretty steep, however side hilling is where the real pucker factor is at. I've not had the opportunity (knock on wood) to tip one over just yet, but I've been on...