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First my tractor came with several implements. The 3 pt on the rotary cutter was welded solid. Obviously the toplink portion broke soon. Been using it a couple years more or less a pull type. Tailwheel fell off and broke the shaft. I bought a old (deck rusted out for parts. Got the...

Yes! I know this is a old post! That said, keep drinking the Kool-aid guys. Every manufacturer "brands" some one else's fluids. Most hydrostatic use a "low viscosity" (John Deeres words) a 10 weight hydraulic oil. If a warm climate, 20 weight. 10 weight is ok temp wise for most of...

Don't need razors. Just grind it mostly sharp and go mow. The outermost corner does most cutting. I usually grind sharp edge then flatten the edge slightly. Sharp edges bend easier. Just sharp enough to cut grass, not tear it. Blade tip speed is typically somewhere around 17000 feet per...

What NIW said fix it now while it's "small" or it'll enlarge!

If you have blue Loctite use it. I was always taught on cars and equipment to use blue for flywheel bolts.

It has to be open center meaning hydraulic flow has to be complete at all times. Whether it's through use or while not using. If it's pushing hydraulic pressure over the relief valve it will heat the oil. If you raise or lower the loader to its stopping point and keep holding it does the same...

Any luck? To extend cylinders etc, take the couplers off the hydraulic lines. Get a bu8cket, drain pan etc, it will let oil out. Use another loader, barn rafters, something of that nature to remove it with the couplers off. Put them back on once it's off.

Ya saw that. Have any angle iron etc? Raise the loader and strap it to a lift cylinder rod. Raises it.

It is like mine. There should be stands in the back. If you can fill the bucket with dirt, put in concrete blocks etc, the idea is just added weight. The pins under the grill and lower pins near the back that goes through the frames. The loader frames stay. Shut it off and hit the loader...

Mines leaking I'm just keeping it filled now. I'm brush cutting right now, I'll work on it afterwards. Its leaking were the gasket is where the drop spindle bolts to the center housing. It is usually the seals where yours had issues.... Proud, you seem to know what your doing.

You'll get more replies on your own thread. Sounds like the cylinder.

Unless you're building high revving puller 20 grams is nothing.

Wet liner engines use additives to prevent cavetation damage. Most Kubota engines are dry.

Absolutely not! 100% agree!

He's a new member. Eager to help. These are aging and harder to find info about. Agreed about contact info!

Check the roll pins etc in the linkage. its working on 30 years old. Remember KISS (Keep It Simple Stupid) pnuemonic, not at anyone in particular. No adjustment I see other than internal. if you were closer I'd help you. I'm disabled now but still bleed 15 40. Lifelong gearhead!

Can you PM me an email? Want it .ZIP or normal?

I can send you the WSM, too big to attach to thread. The transmission is chapter 3. It also has a CREEPER. HI LO. May not apply to yours.

I have a wsm. I'll check, think there is a forward and reverse clutch. Think automatic transmission. Not dry clutches. All 8 speeds are in constant mesh all the pedal is needed for is take off, stopping, or inching. Speeds and gears need no clutch

A "seal" shouldn't see pressure. I'd pull it apart. Blown Orings, scarred housings, etc.