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My plan is similar, but has receiver tubing at back (as yours), plus top and bottom. That allows use of a ball mounts, grab hook mounts, clevis mounts, chisel/buster mount on bottom, etc. And all mounts can be set at any location for whatever reason. A simple extension of my standard tool...

Wow, nice job. That takes one hell of a fabricator, I wish I had your energy! Nice quick change multi-mount too. Maybe I'll get some of my stuff done when it cools off a bit. Hopefully not too long from now. I just walked outside and it was chilly out, a cold front came through. Checked...

If anyone finds one, I could use a shop manual for a B7100 and a B2150. I also use disposable emails for such things. Basically anything where I'm forced to provide one, but don't really want a long term attachment (or risk sold for SPAM).

That I don't know, it depends on how it was made, and how it was designed to take torque/thrust/pressure loads. I've got a feeling that's something you'll need to determine yourself, or maybe contact manufacturer is possible.

That may be. I was recently surprised to learn that the 6000 has a PTO rotation backward to most everything else. There are threads here discussing the options. As for tilling hard soil, you may be best served by running a buster or chisel plow through to break it up first, then run the...

Typical 3 point has no down force.

My 7100 has a sort of clam shell clamp. I take it these are problematic? Mine seem to be ok, is there anything I should check?

With adding shipping from PA on a "cosmetic" item, it's unlikely my value would measure up with your "price is right". :o I'm more looking for someone with a "decent" hood relatively cheap that they may have replaced during a cosmetic build, something they mostly want out of their way and maybe...

We had some luck long ago on a similarly problematic drive at my grandfather's place in N AL. From what I recall, it was done by using "chirt" to build up a bed, and covering that with coarse crusher run. It was shaped with a slope biased moderately to the high side. It was then was compacted...

That's not normally what is meant by "out of phase" on a drive line. Out of phase usually applies to u-joints not clocked the same. When you put the 2 pieces together, choose the spline engagement that aligns the yokes, then it is "in phase". Both stubs should also be made parallel with angle...

If they were 6x12, I would be all over it.

Thanks. The tires are not right for mine, unfortunately. And he states he won't ship anyway. And I got no answer on the hood. But it's really too nice for mine, and doesn't look quite the same, so may not work even if he's willing to ship. But thanks MUCH for the pointer!

Thanks. I called, but have not heard back.

On the timber, I agree, but not on cinder/concrete blocks. Yes, they hold up the house, but that's a distributed weight load. Holding up a vehicle, the load is usually much higher PSI due to small contact patch, and the block can bust. Even putting a board or something over the top to carry...

Sorry, but if you are suggesting concrete blocks, I would have to strongly recommend the other way. I've seen concrete blocks break being used to hold up vehicles, in one case killing a man that was working under it. Blocks aren't made for those localized loads. If you have a good concrete...

Thanks. The problem seems to be getting it in smaller quantities. As far as I could find, it's available in no less than 12 cartridge cases for just over $70. For an old auger, I'm not interested in investing $70 and stocking 11 cartridges indefinitely. If I could get it by the quart, that...

No idea if it helps you or not, but the gear box on my Ford 905 auger apparently uses gasket stacks as shims for both the main shaft and pinion end play. Of course you can't get them any more. The pinion won't be much trouble, but the main top plate is sort of like a differential cover, so...

Congrats on the win!

That's odd to me. On an old tractor, there are minimal (no) electronics, so I would expect it to survive with very minimal damage if any.

If the seal is "gone" (as in the rubber part is shot leaving a gap, or actually gone), I would replace it to make sure to keep trash out. But other than that, I would say grease. I replaced bearings and seals in my Ford 905 auger gear box, and I plan to try to run hypoid gear oil at first, to...